北京博伊斯

北京布思24條

• 開放射擊：誠Doodoo，書蟲，褐色，Q吧，菲爾， 拉吉 ，石舫
• 我們得到： 約翰·公牛酒吧 ，Maggie的，沒有人喜歡閱讀
• 輕率節腳註
• 第一印象： 臉和A-車
• 發生的東西：咖啡廳暫停，香檳， 澤塔和樹
• 關閉射擊：城市週末和天悅 。

開幕SHOTS
這些都是晚上享受一個屋頂，甲板或天井的飲料，和我最喜愛的景點依然暮鼓晨鐘 ， 弗蘭克的廣場和 Q 酒吧與其他不錯的選擇， 亭和石船咖啡 。 請記住， 我們的肺部從這個城市的空氣過濾器污染和強烈的集體以外的飲用水努力可能讓我們發現一些明星或兩個晚上。 （注：館提供增值的聽證會閃回值重擊， 休伊·劉易斯 ，蒸氣和傑克遜·布朗在一個小時之內！）/ 約翰·公牛運行， 酒吧 ，傳說中的酒吧老闆弗蘭克·西格爾說toodleloo倫敦和休斯頓招呼轉化到德州燒烤聯合（見“我們得到了電子郵件”）。 / ZING由Doodoo，一個壞的酒吧名名人堂大廳尊敬的成員，也改變身份，將再度出現泰國餐廳為人民服務 ，這是幾乎沒有一個更好的名字，它喚起了自相殘殺 。 為嘉士伯在臉部。哎喲品脫/ 49膾 ！ / 書蟲昨天慶祝其成立一週年。 美味的食物，有趣的講座，現場音樂，大量出售或貸款的書籍，和廣泛的飲料菜單 ，這個地方一直是巨大的成功。 這並不奇怪，令人難以置信的普及，可以使無線求職者它堅韌，以獲得一個座位，這可能意味著偶爾突襲的Le Petit美食家或SPR咖啡 。 / 布朗在星期三女裝晚現任“ 叢林果汁 ”，這意味著人們可能很快就會被擺動的椽子以及酒吧跳舞。 布朗說到， 泡沫黨的兩個週末前看到後，當晚最氣泡的氣泡，但他們一陣週日早午餐。 這個地方幾乎是空的，但它接管了20分鐘得到一個簡單的早餐和咖啡機被打破了 ！ “如果這是我第一次訪問到布朗，我永遠不會回去，說：”一個徹頭徹尾的苦和咖啡因撤回的M-Dawg。 / 鴿舍附近，已改名熱閣樓 。 我沒有做正義的這種營銷輝煌的沖壓生產線。 /讀者KS又名殺手女教師發言業主最近chai'd 大易說，路易斯安那州風格熱點將再次裝點我們的城市，保留了其原有的內部精神，但與一個新的外面看看（來在此）。 /的M-Dawg，我參觀了Q吧前兩個星期六，訂購等僅15分鐘，而且還白白為我們的飲料30分鐘。 焦渴的喉嚨，我們去菲爾的酒吧 ，很快就有三分之一的成本杜松子酒補品。 在我看來，Q吧是最好的時候提供一個寧靜的環境 ，這意味著需要把重點放在加快飲料交付，而不是，比方說，僱用的DJ玩音樂房子的質量雞尾酒 。 翻譯：我想我幹的馬提尼和約翰·李妓女 ！ 幸運的是，飲料來快速訪問期間，與輕微憤怒本週早些時候。 /時替代範式， 特雷弗和肯恩將下滑到圍裙和Q吧的屋頂上承載結束夏季燒烤 （9月23日，下午2點-晚）。 二十五年噲讓你一個漢堡，兩個熱狗，烤蔬菜或六個翅膀，所有這一切都與烤土豆 。 /跳繩菲爾，我參觀了最近幾次和重新發現的便宜，但體面的雞尾酒 ，30膾艾丁格，和睦鄰友好的酒吧氛圍的樂趣。 此外，在青島長的限制後，雇主菲爾是背部和合作與莎莉 。 我對這個地方的唯一的建議： 蒸發PlayStation遊戲機 ，或至少的人使用它。 / 拉吉新分行舉行了黨的最後一個星期六晚上，預計印度食品和傳統舞蹈自助。 天台是幾個BREW（從15青島膾25 翠鳥膾）或一些酒（雖然這些微不足道的眼鏡去），然後前往附近的床或暮鼓晨鐘 ，享受的理想選擇。 / 石船已經升級其在過去一年的葡萄酒和雞尾酒菜單和信貸艾米和喬納森 。 馬提尼和莫吉托是更好，但後者仍然是酒精燈，在適當的玻璃在這樣一個輕鬆點的酒是不錯的享受。

我們的GOT郵箱
電子郵件 ：“你的啤酒肚必須甚至比我的耗油量，你必須做研究的利益更大。 你應該知道，一個白髮蒼蒼的老人的喜愛， 約翰·公牛酒吧 ，將很快改變其名稱和Tim的德克薩斯燒烤的風格。 [業主]弗蘭克·[西格爾]要集中在他的兩個（也許很快） 紅杉咖啡館。 傷心，但不可避免的“ - 噸

貝爾 ：弗蘭克，誰開了北京的第一個非酒店的酒吧，16年前，他告訴我，新的燒烤聯合定於十月下旬 ，他已經準備好他的吸煙者 ，可以這麼說。 約翰牛酒吧遺留下來的，將包括在星期二的的瑣事比賽和上週五和週六的墨西哥菜車 。 第二紅杉是在三里屯北街開放。

順便噸，“ 啤酒肚 ”是這樣的尊敬了我們的身體的一部分，是多年醞釀的原油字。 為什麼沒有更多的東西，如“圓丘 BREW這話比比皆是”，“致敬，以大麥為基礎的飲料”，或為M-Dawg建議，“ 比利時隆起 ”，端莊？

電子郵件 ：“我不知道我是如何得到這些電子郵件列表是誰，你想要一個建議。？？ 我看了所有電腦屏幕的一天，有沒有辦法，我想讀這一切文字 ，即使它有大膽的一拉，是北京風格的東西。 找到一個更有效的溝通方式。 沒有人喜歡看 。 這是一個事實“ - CN

BB：呦，CN我的收件箱顯示您訂閱本通訊。 換句話說，你很值得雙週新品速遞3000字的蘭迪字體猴子像乞求。 有可能是你的健忘和厭惡閱讀之間的聯繫 ？ 只是要求...

我意識到這個通訊的所有文字的外觀很是20世紀90年代中期的BBS，但我還沒有關於它的許多投訴），b）我沒有時間來添加圖片或笑臉，C）這些有趣的年上網的時候是更新穎性和較少的另一種方式讓我們連接到24/7。 和搖滾樂隊Veruca鹽還在一起 。 此外，有些人可以處理作為長篇通​​訊，這下，嗯，*偏心*電子郵件顯示，採摘我的意見，最後一個問題約夫人三里屯酒吧吹捧和物質賣家：

電子郵件 ：這是目前6:45，週日上午 ...我大約5點由於焦渴位，所以我率領我的廚房冷飲。 奇怪的是，我是問如果我想要一個女士酒吧，途中有幾次，我對我的方式回到我溫暖舒適的睡眠，伴隨著一個年輕的非洲的人想討論之前，不可避免的政治“，要的東西，人呢？“ 我拋棄了他，並拒絕了第一個巷子裡，這導致我的第二個臥室/辦公室。 我想：讓我檢查我的電子郵件 。 我焦急地等待著從家庭辦公的一些重要文件，不能等到一個合理的小時。 點擊發送/接收“按鈕，我封住了我的命運 。 在那裡，它是在眾目睽睽下， 無害的性質 ，但在強大的能力來引誘我仔細一看，您的電子郵件中！ ...我讀了整個事情，現在我的眼睛正在燃燒 ......我會嘗試不可能的事，在凌晨5點起床後喝一杯的OLE回到床上，然後讀了3000字的電子郵件 “ - 賽馬會

貝爾 ：看，點數，有些人讀。 他們想像的夫人酒吧吹捧，並在他們的公寓毒販遊蕩，但他們不讀。 的方式，像斑馬貽貝慢慢地整個湖面蔓延和破壞，否則體面的棲息地， 女欄吹捧現在已經到三里屯南躡手躡腳 ，傳播他們的annoyingness遠了工體南。 六人搭訕我，我走在下午7:30從粉酷啤酒工坊 。 沒有什麼可以阻止他們嗎？

電子郵件：“Maggie的最好拿回20元，一瓶啤酒，我抵制 ！ 請注意我的不滿，如果可能的話在你的下一列。 我們都盡我們的一點對抗通脹 ，在這些困難的時候增加了50％的價格是不合理的“ -環氧乙烷

貝爾 ：10膾頂瓶裝啤酒價格很煩人，但更大的問題是Maggie的下降相關 。 有時，1幾青島，聽1首歌譜，跨越我拱到天堂市，看外國男子/蒙古女子合資企業展開，1出前熱狗狼吞虎咽可能是有趣的，但在新張曼玉的更多無菌，至少對我來說，有太多的其他良好的夜生活場所。

輕率節註腳
兩個星期前我去北京流行音樂節在朝陽公園，並愉快地發現了無產階級的啤酒價格 ：4元的藍鑽石。 為樂隊，CJ確定， 勁草 ，Supergood， 塞巴斯蒂安·巴赫不應該穿明亮的黃色普通話長袍，因為它使他像過rouged金發鬃tranny與文化認同危機。 其他意見：我買了我的官方票 ，而不是從一個攤位而不是從一個表，但是從銀灰色伊蘭特 。 安全包括解放軍的衛士， 保不佳件制服，深色西裝的秘密服務傢伙，我想知道他們認為巴赫宣誓就職，尖叫著，騰躍階段和投擲麥克風站到翅膀 。 球迷喝的和負責任的表現，酒精是很輕鬆的一個小帳篷和一張小桌子，拿著四個龍舌蘭酒的眼鏡的傢伙最明顯的標誌，。 音樂是搖滾，流行，無論如何，如果發起人想出來的當地人，為什麼不潑了一些行為是在八十年代樂隊的流行和KTV的標準，例如惠特尼·休斯頓或供氣，有很多嗎？ 比薩片，應該是這些東西。 發現：一天，我的朋友的妻子做貧民區蓋在日本帶玩！

第一印象
面 ：面對北京分公司開業一個月前，並補充了其在上海，雅加達和曼谷的弟兄們。 南邊的工人體育場在翻新學校， 如果昂貴的地方，這是一個愉快的消磨了幾個小時。 來自亞洲的文物和藝術裝飾，它需要時間為面，以獲得必要的磨損破舊的樣子，和朋友頻繁上海分行覺得這是一個遠低於建築令人印象深刻的 。 座位選擇，包括長窄外燈光昏暗的甲板和充足的角落和縫隙內。 一張台球桌和酒吧分手，否則可能過於悶熱的環境。 上週六晚上， 還算響亮的房子音樂播放，等待工作人員有效地作出了一個相當精心打扮和一般年紀的人群飲料。 一個充滿冰的不銹鋼啤酒舉行的啤酒，莫吉托配料準備去英寸的M-Dawg來訂單了，豎起大拇指雞尾酒，雖然沒有扭轉，我要求我的幹馬提尼，馬提尼較早的訪問是低於標準桿。 他們在60-70膾是昂貴的，不包括一個惱人的10％的服務費，和一品脫嘉士伯排在49膾 。 總體而言，臉部提供體面的飲料，氣氛和服務（雖然搖搖欲墜對過於熱衷於倍），但這些價格，這個地方很可能是一個不規則的停。

一個譯文 ：氖切·格瓦拉在門的輪廓表明革命裡面的東西，但這個地方提供了在北京其他地方找到相同的平庸。 地方本身提供了一個很好的第一印象 ，打一個舒適和溫馨的，當場排序，可能成為與您當地的酒吧立式酒吧，桌席和大屏幕。 不幸的是， 在服務方面的一些問題需要被推翻。 在我第一次訪問時，工作人員似乎困擾，我們甚至下令食品。 話又說回來，也許這是一個微妙的警告，鑑於小吃包括堅定的白色物質定義平淡 ，顯然是奶酪 。 在我第二次訪問，帕爾馬火腿沙拉是令人難以置信的肥肉 ，關閉的現成橄欖，金槍魚罐頭，根據成熟的西紅柿，和55膾價格標籤，本來第一個“5”去掉公平。 食品，因此，需要一些工作。 然而，飲料，肯定是值得一試。 有大量的古巴特色和高效的調酒師刮起了令人耳目一新的金色莫吉托 （Y35），橙汁和薄荷。 不幸的是，他的助手站在附近吃花生（ 張大嘴巴 ），在客戶發呆，似乎不知道刪除空眼鏡的藝術。 接著，奇怪的是，一哲提供了我一個VIP卡 。 這讓我呢？ 另一個綠色的番茄片？ 折騰到酒吧幫手的張開keghole，整個檸檬的機會？ 在我看來，這個地方應該首先學會處理非重要的人。 無論如何，儘管所有這些批評， 我希望一哲 。 一些工作人員的培訓和重新思考的菜單會去一個很長的路要走，希望變為現實。 在此期間，這個地方仍然值得嘗試訪問一些雞尾酒。

發生的東西
網吧暫停 9月23日（晚上八時）將展出德國音樂和Jagermeister雞尾酒，並共同擁有斯特凡·弗萊舍是提供一個自由的射手的人穿著Leiderhosen。 /皇冠假日酒店的香檳吧 “辣妹泡沫”，逢星期四晚上9點，免費的梵高伏特加雞尾酒和香檳雞尾酒的婦女。 / 澤塔酒吧開始與“Z”，這顯然需要希爾頓酒店的滑稽營銷熱忱地使用這個比比信無數次（是的，我可以做到這一點，太）。 因此，在酒吧有一半關閉馬提尼Mondaze，為兩澤塔 -主題雞尾酒星期二，，和關閉Whizky 50％，在週三晚上9點之前的所有。 還有香檳Zequins（亮片海皇后？segues？）上週四，兩酩為女裝，從下午6時至午夜十二時從晚上9點半到午夜Pingzi週五關閉選擇瓶香檳。 順便說一下，如果你還沒有檢查出來澤塔，單獨的裝飾，是值得一遊。 /酒流入夏無禮貌， 這是北京的五週年和飢餓的藝術家“黨在C5畫廊 （下午2:00-6:00）， 小飛俠 ， 服務人民，在三里屯。 本次活動將包括Panjir三重奏和阿Q的表演，關於後者釋放它的第一張CD。 / 捷成洋行於9月23日將舉行的六個羅斯蒙特葡萄酒品嚐石船（7-9日下午，值100元）。 伊桑咖啡館 ，以前與Montrosé，已加入捷成洋行副總經理。 / YPHH和樹將在9月26日舉行的比利時啤酒之夜的友誼旅館的露台（6:30-11日下午，100膾YPHH成員，150膾非成員）。 / 中國大飯店和托雷斯隊於9月28日 ，五道菜的美食晚餐， 詠嘆調廚師長尼古拉斯Blaira與彼得·萊曼葡萄酒（888膾）配對。 / ASC精品葡萄酒公司有充分的板岩的品酒活動，其中包括奔富晚宴在歡欣花園 （10月13日），在詠嘆調的Skalli晚宴（10月18日）和萊佛士家安， 布林晚餐（10月24日; 988膾） 。 蒙特羅斯 /發送我在中國休息室和葡萄酒俱樂部於9月21日事件有關海瑞德拉龍舌蘭酒推出黨的電子郵件，但我無法訪問公司的網站（www.montrosechina.com）。

閉幕SHOTS
City Weekend has published a Restaurant & Bar Guide that not only is good, but also is free! I have long griped about City Weekend, including to the managing editor, who is no doubt tired of my free “constructive” criticism whenever I run into him in the local bars. Happily, the guide and the magazine's recent design upgrade deserve praise as a major step in the right direction , though the content still needs a boost, something I am told is forthcoming. The guide itself includes useful lists such as “Where you drink if you are a sport fanatic” (Goose and Duck, Pavillion, Bar Blu) and “ Over 30… but not over the hill ” (Browns, Q Bar, Suzie Wong, East Shore Live Jazz), as well as nightlife itineraries for couples and singles. / I am again delaying my review of the Wine and Spirits Education Trust class I attended late last month, mainly because I'm too swamped to transcribe my notes, but I do hope to have it and the long overdue review of Bed next issue. / Last year, that’s Beijing organized a Christmas funk party to raise money for a heart operation for an orphan named Tian Yue . Unfortunately, the Scrooge-like venue undermined the magazine's Santa-like intentions, and the call went out for donations. Several newsletter readers helped out, including Agent Hidden Dragon and K-Ro , and will be happy to know that I attended Tian Yue's birthday party last week and found her healthy, happy and, since she was recently adopted, about to move to the US and start a new life. / Whether you are hanging out in Beijing or heading out of the city, have a safe and happy holiday. Eat, Drink and Be Merry. Cheers, BB.

• Opening Shots, with Saddle, Pavillion, Q Bar
• We Got Mail, with Rui Fu, W Sports Bar, Red Ball Bar, The Big Easy
• From Sing Sing to Beijing: Bar Hopping with Guests
• Closing Shots

OPENING SHOTS

夫人酒吧吹捧和物質拆三里屯北過去幾週似乎稀疏。 最近一個下降的主要阻力漫步吸引只有六“性感女郎”的募捐，在通常打，而不是一個“嘿，伙計，希望一些東西嗎？”喃喃自語，我走橫街到Apertivo。 祂所強悍入侵者到哪裡去了？也許他們利用了新的京藏高速和夏季休假。 或者他們被趕出由臭名昭著的保安人員在附近的通力工作室 （真實的， 沒有屍體已經找到，但告訴標誌，如果該地區的烤羊肉串，突然嚐到野生的）。 不管什麼原因，任何從這些突破-讓我們的慷慨- 碳基生命形式時，強風偶爾會沖淡北京的空氣污染是令人耳目一新。 不幸的是，它通常只是作為短暫的。 /口語的Apertivo，我已經去過那裡每月兩次。 服務是合理的，這是一個愉快的夏天晚上與朋友聊天的好地方，事情會更是一個由玻璃葡萄酒選擇升級。 /街對面， 鞍提供了一個捲餅，西班牙炒飯，莎莎和芯片，墨西哥薄餅以及佩佩·洛佩茲的Camino，Cuervo的聖何塞，Olmeca和征服者龍舌蘭酒的極簡菜單。 這些品牌覆蓋低於100％的龍舌蘭的龍舌蘭酒譜年底，肯定會受到歡迎，一些優質品種。 馬鞍也有稱為“ 布雷特漏斗”上週五，其中包括10膾啤酒隆隆通過管的事，是不是為微弱的胃。 / 館有兩對一的歡樂時光，5至8日下午，包括餐酒，雞尾酒，軟飲料和啤酒，力士和Kilkenny除外。 在館中除了1優良的庭院，還具有：1）適當的葡萄酒眼鏡; 2）1北京更令人印象深刻的威士忌選擇小號;和3）1輕微的身份危機，因為根據到達顧客可能遇到任何來從1酒精的自由畢業晚會啤酒燃料橄欖球瘋狂的人群，用的東西幸好趨於向中間。 / Maggie的調升瓶裝青島30膾20膾。 否則，這是老一套，老，這意味著熱狗出去前，可靠的音樂裡面，不辜負工體東路上的前語言環境和氛圍。 /順義的體育酒吧， 石榴有一個高科技的夏天，因為它增加了視頻投影機，42英寸純平，和無線上網。 我郊區的朋友告訴我，這是一個好地方來呷了幾瓶啤酒，吃一些酒吧蠐螬，趕上一場比賽。 / DJ 大衛Lindinger的 9月將旋轉在所有的塑料套， 在 Q上週五酒吧 “nujazz，槽和室內音樂”。 這是有點出人意料，因為有些業主曾一度強烈反對的DJ，因為顧客似乎更喜歡目前的氛圍，其中包括布魯斯和爵士樂。 Q吧似乎從第一咖啡廳和午夜雞尾酒第一的文化，其中兩個業主削減他們的牙齒，而這無疑會擔心一些長期忠實的客戶，包括你的真正的漂流。 我的意思是，這是像城市的北京將其蓋（哦，等等，它只是做了，我有我的手，在曼谷的一個副本？）泰國圖片像一個巨大的小冊子。 或像我十幾書評，我的酒吧通訊（哦，再次等待...）。 / Speaking of which, rumblings abound that Keiko Shirata, who owned First Cafe until it was chai'd about a month ago, is planning to open a new spot in Beijing. / Each of my four visits to Rui Fu has found this lounge/club increasingly busy and fun. My initial reservations have been cancelled by its spirited groove, interesting clientele and decent music (though a bit loud last time). The cocktails are a problem. A s oft mentioned elsewhere, Rui Fu is a place to see and be seen, with last Friday featuring a marathon of seeing and being seen that left my ocular nerves exhausted and thus, having saw and been sawn, I resolved to wear an eye patch next time and thus maximize seeage and being seenage while minimizing strain (that is, when I return from my vacation at a coastal apiary — “a sea and bee scene. ) Putting preening aside, Rui Fu' s menu includes numerous pricing oddities such as Johnnie Walker Red and Johnnie Walker Black both at Y35, suggesting the latter will increase in price with the club's popularity. Let's wait and see (and be seen). / Capone’s plans to open a restaurant in Beijing. T he general manager says his aim is to have “one of the biggest if not the biggest wine selection s in Beijing.” / Also coming to the Jing: Hong Kong's Park 97 and Middle-class America's Hooters. / Finally, there are lots of choices out there for tonight, Friday, September 1. Frank's Place will hold an end-of-summer p arty with all-you-can-drink Freixenet sparkling wine (7PM, 100 kuai) and its weekly pool tournament (8 PM, 50 kuai per person, winner takes all). Summergate will have a tasting of South Australia's Kingston wines at Face Bar (7-10 PM, 100 kuai). Stone Boat has Muwen playing (9:30 PM), Q Bar sees its inaugural DJ night, and Rui Fu apparently has DJ Edmund, a friend of a friend from Taipei, spinning tunes.

I thought I'd beat someone to the punch on that one. Rui Fu does, in fact, have one room. In my own defense, I'm easily distracted, the mirror on the far side is *really* shiny, and it does look like a passageway. Here's the worst part: Around 10 PM one night, I was writing a review of Rui Fu based on a single one-hour visit and felt that was unfair, so I decided to delay the newsletter, threw on some decent clothes, headed over there, ended up taking to owner Henry Li for an hour, got a better feel for the club, and then came back and ADDED the part about two rooms. Yes, in this case, more research resulted in greater inaccuracy. Go figure.

“W Sports Bar does not have a pool table.” – W. Thomas

I was wrong (again). Last issue, I wrote that W has a table hockey game buried amid enough stuff to make for a most excellent yard sale, including, “[a] ping pong table, dartboard, big-screen TV, pool table, art, grand piano, foosball table, etc.”

My bad: mae yo pool table.

Nevertheless, I won't retract the ensuing comment: “Is there anywhere else in town where you might simultaneously hear “Who's serve?,” “ Bull's eye!, ” “I'll have two beers, please,” “Eight ball, corner pocket,” and “This is simply too Dadaist for my taste,” all while someone chops out Mozart and a Formula 1 race shows?”

即使沒有表，即“ 八球”的評論仍然可以很容易地從一個混亂的ping乒乓球選手在大屏幕上，覆蓋世界花式撞球錦標賽，還是......其實，忘記它聽說，有沒有辦法，我要一種廉價的笑話寬鬆的褲子。

“你列為我們的編輯挑選一個俱樂部足球-這是獨特的紅球吧- ！你可以發出糾正嗎？” - H。 香格里拉

我錯了（再次）。 （人須使用本現在，但沒有，在洪水的電子郵件。）這一次，1 眼尖職員從該是北京（TBJ）指出了，我列出了俱樂部的足球，而不是紅球酒吧作為一個光榮的，提到今年的酒吧。

（“我羅VE的球，因為它如此獨特和不同。還有1 砸的氣氛，工作人員都如此友好和有益的，它精湛的價值 [還有什麼地方可以你獲得1瓶/像樣的酒箱50元？]和它是所以從任何其他我去過的酒吧不同 ，“他/她熱情。）

公平的。 修正發行。 要犯錯是人類的，他們說，作為TBJ本身表明不給予1單編輯器的傳感器，以褐色，即使那個地方贏得民眾投票，是由其他酒吧業主和員工經常光顧的......好，你知道的故事（是的，這是一個便宜的鏡頭）。

除了​​1：我的英國朋友最討厭褐色他們輕蔑地描述它作為典型的這樣或那樣的可怕，在倫敦，Muckchester酒吧，塞上火腿或任何他們給家裡打電話。 收到的消息 - 迄今約一百萬次。 我敢肯定，北京土人生活在小島不是過於喜歡有中國餐館。 生活就是這樣。 事情是， 我們不是在英國，也不做我們大多數人從那裡歡呼，布朗是它是什麼-一個良好，清潔的樂趣的地方。 還有什麼地方，你會發現7暴笑慶祝生日，而附近的兩夫婦在他們的七十愉快地趴到八十年代的曲調的年輕球員？ 不冷靜，你說呢？ 但是，有些人不喜歡矯飾或根本不時髦的，因此，我們需要褐色的大熔爐，在這個城市​​的酒吧。 所以，佛，本埃爾頓的愛， 請停止該恨！漂亮的請？ 漂亮的請與博丁頓泡沫和冷凍血糕屑在上面？

除了​​2：他的主流媒體必須心灰意冷的時候，如你的業餘真正打開感知他們的權力和得分的主要新聞瓢，就拿我揭露白人覆在幾個三里屯熱點舞蹈疫情而回。 在C雛日報“，”華爾街日報“和他們的親屬完全錯過了。 再有就是我最近期的瓢：我的漫長的調查過程中所積累的證據揭露戴眼鏡的風格和酒吧成功之間的直接聯繫，將填補多個卷，但讓我提出兩件。 首先，最近的酒吧頒獎典禮TBJ故事，不是一個，不是兩個，而是三個勝利業主頂上他們的頭上戴著眼鏡，彷彿在y視覺障礙毛囊，望著天花板，可能表決神超越。 其次，許多其他沒有故事描繪的獲獎業主被發現在戴鏡以類似的方式儀式。 聯繫是顯而易見的，但它的意義是什麼？ 雖然這是難以量化的積極影響，例如，一對收入雷朋太陽鏡雙焦 ，我的猜測是22.7％，或0.3％。 （玫瑰色的鏡片和近視者，顯然有較少的IM協議）。此相反的酒吧老闆戴棒球帽向後：我估計，這樣低的眉毛通常會看到他們的業務走在幾週內破產，也站在一個百分之五十的機會自發燃燒的教訓很簡單：酒吧的成功是你的，如果你保持你的眼鏡朝上，並保持您的球帽朝前，理想做兩個（超過上限眼鏡，當然）。 記住，你聽到它在這裡第一次。

“這是特雷斯可怕聽到日é大易。這很容易，因為我的波旁街天在1967年前往越南之前，一些最好的爵士樂和歌手。 他們要打開別的地方？ - JW

這是一個很好的問題，我沒有答案的線索。 也許是大易將遷至旁邊的新的拉美裔人在那裡有一些內部的信息？

從海闊天空到北京，我應該採取我的客人？
人們經常問我建議他們到北京的遊客的酒吧。 無論是傳入的 ​​朋友，客戶，父母，同胞達基，失散多年的叔叔，郵購新娘或假釋的問題筆友 ，我熱愛回答這樣的請求，由噴出了一個完美的行程。 （其實，假釋的筆友很簡單：把他們的書蟲，將以來滿載貨架，呼籲他們的文學的一面，可以幫助MBA學生的集群前CON上的想法是誰長，但在專業供不應求書面的商業計劃。 類項目！）

但我很難搞清楚的地方把我自己的客人，更不用說其他人。 我一般脫脂通過酒吧房源，問同事，打電話給我的朋友，扔甲骨，忍受嚇出一身冷汗，我創建了一個體面的計劃。 這一計劃，一次行動中，不約而同地跑進單元決策和妥協的迫擊砲磚建成的長城，嚴酷的現實。A N經驗提醒這堵牆前一段時間我再教我一些基本原則獲得過。

情況：A組六個中年業務類型訪問北京。 我知道兩個非常好，兩個相當不錯的，不是所有的使命：他們連續兩晚晚餐和飲料。

夜景之一：我拿兩個我很清楚知道，一個陌生人在西河雅居晚餐北京烤鴨是一個安全的賭注，當你有美麗的天氣，出背部和一瓶葡萄酒的優良表，成為保證贏家- 。像我們這樣。 下一站： 館更多的人加入我們，和我們分享另一瓶酒，同時享受寬敞的庭院 ，在樹的寧靜。 很高興。 大多數組，然後前往酒店，而兩名倖存者和我打了最後一個亮點， 蘇絲黃 （感謝代理紅狼的想法）。 憑藉其有趣的裝飾， 舒適的甲板和一流的人看的機會，這是一個幾乎所有來北京的遊客的好止損，即使是在一個緩慢的週日晚上。 最終的結果是一個晚上，包括一些經典的北京食物，舒適的庭院，和一個具有里程碑意義的酒吧。

晚上二：我開始這一個客人，而不是一台主機，因為我們有一些新疆的食物 ，然後在Apertivo飲料的道路上漫步下來三里屯北我們的主機，然後前往採摘家庭的責任。我的下一個點下跌。 我們的小組成員包括四個人：兩個，我也知道，認為我的主要客人，並認為最喜歡喝好;兩個，我不知道還有誰是有點不安。 我的直覺是把第一對1，如褐色或Q吧可靠點，但第二對似乎與該冷淡，所以我們，而不是領導的另一點，變成了指南，Maggie的。事實證明，Maggie的地廣人稀，音樂不符合我們的心情，這是不是真的該組的風格， 晚上是虎頭蛇尾，因為它得到。它的發生是因為我忽略了一個從“常識”一類的一些簡單的規則。

1。 控制。選擇你的客人行程或放棄責任，但也不是軟弱無力的查理布朗。如果每個人都閱讀關於蘇絲黃的指南，並希望去那裡，然後決定為你做。 但是，如果他們的新鎮，忘記了他們的書籍，在酒店，負責，這樣做時...

2， 堅持嘗試和真實。更妙的是，堅持審判和提供真實，最能接受的最壞的情況。 褐色，將是一個合理的最壞的情況下的地方是空的，但仍然舒適，具有良好的啤酒選擇。Q吧，它可能是雨水已經關閉了甲板，但顧客仍然可以坐在宜人的酒吧和飲料一些優秀的雞尾酒，在這兩種情況下， 最糟糕的是沒有那麼糟糕。這將有助於...

3， 避免巨大的未知數。我曾在Maggie的歡樂時光，通常在3紅狼代理或O型區上週六晚上的地方是充分，我們已經有幾個雞尾酒，聽到歡迎叢林聽起來像一個好主意。 但在這種情況下，它是一個星期一下午10:30，我什至有資格說這是沒有可能是好事，事前的訪問。 由於使用的是喜歡說，“有疑問時，離開它。”前老闆，我離開了Maggie的中，並通過這樣做，忘了另一個關鍵的規則...

4。 專注於核心組迴避布朗和Q吧，我放棄了什麼是可能是一個很好的經驗，我知道最好的兩個人，可能為所有四個，在一場賭博代表交流我知道兩個人最少。 這就像打在大酒杯17。

In hindsight, this all seems pretty simple. (Then again, so does making a decent martini, though how many people can do it?) But if you're handling a group that is impatiently waiting near some taxis, or trying to get people in different parts of the city to one spot, or dealing with people from different age, cultural or other groups, it can get pretty tricky. So maybe falling back on a few basic rules can keep your night out going forward. I n any case, I'm going to start contacting numerous party animals and bar and restaurant experts that I know, and in future newsletters will list some possible itineraries for a fun night in Beijing.

CLOSING SHOTS
I had planned to review Face, Bed, L'Etage and A-Che in this issue, but have simply been too busy of late and this newsletter is already one week overdue. I'll aim to include them next time, along with a write-up of the Wine and Spirits Education Trust course I finished last night. I was in the inaugural/guinea pig class and w ill opine on whether it was worth the 1488 kuai (and yes, unless otherwise noted, I do pay for these things). / I had my first newsletter-related interview with a Chinese newspaper. I have one thing to say: I am WAY better at writing about the bar scene than at talking about it. / Finally, Eddie-O, Kris Tan and I met about the Whisky and Bourbon Society, and came up with a basic plan. I'm now working on a venue and before the next newsletter will send out details to those on the society's mailing list. / As always, Eat, Drink and Be Merry. BB.

• Opening Shots, including The Big Easy, Berber N, and Mojito
• First Impressions: Rui Fu
• A Wine Glass of Any Other Shape
• Wine Notes
• Closing Shots, including Kitchen Confidential, Whisky and Bourbon Society, and a Big Thank You

開幕SHOTS
China Daily reports that Louisiana-themed The Big Easy will be chai'd on Sunday. Chaoyang Park authorities voided the bar's 13-year lease, signed in 1998, in order to make space for a “ peace plaza, ” although they didn't reveal whether this will be a government or commercial venture, states the newspaper. The creative layout, spirited music and Bloody Marys of The Big Easy will be missed. / Before losing its trio of capable bartenders earlier this year, Midnight packed in partiers and pumped out 50-kuai cocktails. Now, a signboard out front advertises 10-kuai drinks, including — and some might prefer this one with two parame dics, stomach pump and stretcher — Gin and Coke. / Browns, bursting at the seams last Saturday night, smartly anchored an ice-filled claw-footed bathtub of bottled beer just inside the door and thus siphoned off some of the thirsty patrons teeming at the bar. (Suggestion: Sell bottled water from the tub, too.) / Berber N, home of tasty kebabs before construction forced its closure on Sanlitun North earlier this year, has reopened across from Tongli Studios. Never have skewered chicken butts been more savory. / The last time I saw words such as “closed for maintenance work,” they were plastered on the door at First Cafe, which shortly thereafter pounded into coaster-size bits. That is, until Tuesday — and I hope it is coincidence — when I spotted them in n eat longhand beside the entrance to Mojito, a fairly new place that has Beijing's only draft Weihenstephaner. (Could a beer have a better name for the China market? The first half sounds delightfully Mandarin and the second evok es the Deutschland.) / Contrary to popular belief, Beijing does have table hockey, courtesy of W Sports Bar, where it is buried amid the ping pong table, dartboard, big-screen TV, pool table, art, grand piano, foosball table, etc. Is there anywher e else in town where you might simultaneously hear “Who's serve?”, “bull's eye!”, “I'll have two beers, please”, “ eight ball, corner pocket” and “this is simply too Dadaist for my taste,” all while someone chops out Mozart and a Formula 1 race shows? / Dee p in Sanlitun South, a new bar is opening on the second floor of the building that Beer Mania calls home. With W Sports Bar, Q Bar and Yes Club nearby, a new party zone seems to be forming. / Speaking of Q Bar : one crane, four hours, and a dozen people. Th at's about what it took to get a five-meter tree and some stone flower beds atop this bar's increasingly green sixth-floor deck a few weeks ago. Fortunately, should the day come, it will only take a few seconds to get them back down. / With its latest Chicago blues act having returned stateside, icehouse, the bar part of RBL, now features a mix of local and foreign talent in the form of the Rhythm Dogs (Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays). Meanwhile, the employee turnstile spins on as Ch ef Dan Segal, who joined RBL this year after working at the former Louisiana restaurant in the Hilton, has left for Hong Kong. / Stone Boat continues with its funky live music line-up. The next three Fridays feature Enfants Terribles (electro-jazz, August 11), Muwen (traditional instruments, August 18) and Hanggai (“Mongol roots,” August 25), while Panjir Trio plays Saturdays all month. / Speaking of which, shortly after announcing the readers' choices for its recent bar and club awards, that's Beijing (TBJ) published its “ editor's pick s. ” Top spot of the year honors went to Stone Boat (good ambience and music, though the drinks and service are spotty), with honorable mentions to Area (was it on the ballot?) and Club Football (known primarily for its soccer pitches). Nothing against those places, but I don't think collectively they had the impact of Browns. It exploded onto the bar scene this year, is busy beyond belief, appeals to most every age group, nationality and profession, influences and attracts as customers other bar owners and employees, offers decent food and a good draft beer selection, and, last but not least, won the readers' vote. Love it or hate it, the place has made a mark. By the way, TBJ deserves kudos for organizing these awards. Cynics claim the magazine uses them to placate sponsors, but since each of the 20 categories has one winner and seven losers, more clients are likely to be upset than pleased. (And if you don't believe it, then a band of TBJ staffers will roll up their gargantuan 250-page magazines and knock you about like a pinata. Or, maybe not.) / Fromage fans must be quick on the return key trigger when they get Beijing Cheese Society invites. Next week's California-themed event at Palais sold out in a few hours. / Correction: Last issue, I wrote that 5:19 Bar and Grill was starting a darts league. In fact, it is one of the hosts of the Beijing International Darts League, which welcomes new teams and venues (email Chris “Elvis” Milward at commish @ beijing-darts.com).

FIRST IMPRESSIONS / RUI FU
I toiled beyond the borders of China during the heydays of Neo Lounge and Vogue, the venues that shot Henry Li to the top of the Beijing club-owner charts a few ye ars ago. Even so, I am intrigued by the history of those two places, about which so many friends rave ecstatic. I had high expectations for Li's new club, Rui Fu. I wanted to like this joint, to understand the buzz created by my friends. And since it is na med after and based in the abode of an early twentieth-century Chinese leader, I envisioned a spacious place that welded the modern to the past, had layers of character and, given Li's bar experience, served good drinks.

One thing is true: the club is spa cious. The ceilings are lofty, the lounge areas sprawling, the 1000 square meters ample. But any homage to the past is absent. Rui Fu is a virtual reality. It evokes the spirits of the plush karaoke, generic hotel casino, and modernized opium den, places w here losing track of time, forgetting the complexities of every day life, and finding indulgences are givens. The main floor is divided into two large narrow rooms joined by an opening. From the near side's perspective, tables and chairs, then lounge areas, flow until they meet that opening, beyond which figures appear as silhouettes. A row of toffee-colored octopi-like “chandeliers” crowned with donut-shaped lights crawls spans the ceiling, framed by a strip of soft lights along the trim and a neon glow from the rafters. And a room-length curtain flows in front of what is mostly likely a wall, but could be a hiding spot for a Wizard of Oz type, calmly keeping the lights just dim enough, the house music just restrained enough, so that things stay on simmer. It all seems a bit unreal, as though pulling a lever might dissolve this scene. I'll end my comments on ambience here, for my time at Rui Fu was short, my quota for being pretentious has been met, and a proper evaluation will require several return trips.

As for Rui Fu's bar, it is L-shaped and seats about 15 people (fans of reddish velvet framed by white piping look will love the chairs). My only cocktail was, in theory, a vodka martini with a twist: the bartender inexplicably squeezed a lemon into the shaker with the alcohol rather than, as is proper, placing a strip of peel in the glass as a final touch. (*This* was the time for a lever that would make something, namely my drink, disappear.) It might be best to stick to wine, beer or spirits, which are reasonably priced (a serving of Johnnie Walker Black is Y35).

瑞虎，仍然正式開幕，將排在當年的頂級酒吧的故事，1 1高，咬文嚼字的“情節，如果在免費英文雜誌是任何指標（ 這是北京的第一”看到和被看到“參考，有而超時使用“上層”，並表示在軟啟動一些客人說：“顯然錯過整點瑞虎作為，他們slobbed牛仔褲，教練機和T恤衫，不太反映的A-list名人掛起似乎不滿李指出，已經計劃“）。 扔在嚴重的關係，俱樂部的背後是普遍的共識，即亨利·李是在和自己的品牌名稱，並且，許多老黨人士將目光重新生活的時尚和新的休息室天，它將會變得有趣。

的任何其他形狀的玻璃
在過去十年中，我的身體已經篩選其公平份額的葡萄酒，但它是在老書蟲僅在幾個星期前，我終於參加了里德爾品嚐。 Riedel是一家奧地利公司，使昂貴的機器和手工的水晶酒杯在幾十個形狀，每一個設計為一個特定的葡萄品種。 梅洛玻璃比波爾多玻璃是不同的，依此類推 。 這個想法是如何葡萄酒的透氣性和它落在舌頭上，從而顯著影響如何，我們聞到，嚐到它的形狀和體積的玻璃決定。

一打我們就開始用霞多麗服，你可能已經猜到，在里德爾霞多麗玻璃。 一些嗅著，喝了幾口後，我們酒倒入一個餐館和酒吧常用的那些小眼鏡。 效果是驚人的。花束似乎要弱得多，味酸澀，因為從我們的舌頭，在於我們的甜蜜感的尖端酒AW AY的小玻璃的形狀指示。 但是，如果不是明顯低於標準桿的小玻璃我們已經使用了不同的里德爾？ 白蘇維翁試圖在其特殊的船隻後，我們確實只是到現在空的霞多麗玻璃，澆酒。 上花束和口感的影響仍是顯而易見的，雖然不太明顯。 我們圓了我們的測試中，用黑比諾和赤霞珠。

我問，如果預算志同道合的靈魂可以得到這些結果，通過使用一個廉價的玻璃形狀類似的里德爾。 答案是：1，水晶），可以更容易地檢查酒的清晰度和2），允許更多的曝氣，在顯微鏡下，它比玻璃粗糙。 我能說什麼？ 沒有人在顯微鏡方便。 在年底，品嚐感官教育和純粹的營銷天才，我們毫不猶豫地掏出了什麼是部分銷售間距250,000,000每個。 雖然里德爾是不錯的，我堅持現在的20,000,000杯酒我在購買前的河畔咖啡 -他們是廉價和大，因為我的朋友們往往打破後，幾瓶酒的東西，我討厭有刮傷我的油氈地板，粗糙的晶體。 對於那些誰不希望放縱，Riedel是分佈在中國，完全由ASC。

WINING ABOUT BEIJING
Moet Hennessy Diageo (MHD) provides Veuve Cliquot and Moet Chandon to our fair city, and, as I discovered at a Beijing This Month party last week, an assortment of other wines, including Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand), Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Semillon and Green Point Victoria Shiraz (Australia), Terrazas Reserva Malbec (Argentina), and Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay and Merlot (Chile). / Speaking of distribution, reader CJ Dukes took me to Jiu Fu Sheng Ming Wine Shop (8779-6202), a spacious and well-stocked wine and spirits outlet complete with flagstones, seating, and fish tank. Owner John Zhang is transforming the space next door into a wine haven that will include a tasting area, small stage, and plenty of retail space. (I picked up a bottle of Wild Turkey and it passed my “didn't freeze solid overnight in the freezer” test.) / Stefan Fleischer says the new kitchen at Palette Vino in Shunyi will operate from 5 to 10 PM and serve antipasti, cold cuts, freshly made pasta, cheese, and grilled meats and tuna. / Upcoming events at ASC Fine Wines include a New World and Old World tasting at The Bookworm (August 17, 7-8:30 PM, RMB250), a Gold Label cigar dinner at Garden of Delights (August 25, 7 PM, Y688, includes one cigar, Wolf Blass wines), a Trimbach winemaker dinner at The Capital Club (September 2, 7 PM, Y688) and a Banfi dinner at The St. Regis (September 9, 7 PM, Y788). / ASC has partnered with the UK-based Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) to provide classes in China. The “foundation” course is for beginners, in English, and focused on wine styles, service, and food-pairing techniques (September 28-31, 7-9 PM nightly, exam September 6, Y1488). / On August 26, China World Hotel's Aria will pair a six-course meal by Chef Andrew McKee with seven wines that rate 95 or higher in Wine Spectator. Forget that Boracay trip fund: this dinner is Y3888. The wines (points in brackets): Krug Grande Reserve Champagne (95), 2002 Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay (96), 1996 Faiveley Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (96), 1990 Gaja Barbaresco (100 points), 1983 Chateau Margaux (96 points), 1988 Chateau Latour (96 points) and 1998 Chateau D'yquem (95 points). / Jebsen is giving a “wine and picnic backpack” to customers that purchase a case of the company's Chiaro wine. The backpack holds two bottles of wine (not included) and comes with plastic cups, utensils and plates.

CLOSING SHOTS
In the summer reading section last issue, I should have included Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential, which looks at the restaurant business in general and the author's transformation from oyster-eating youngster to drug-abusing kitchen grunt to increasingly respectable New York chef in particular. The most useful excerpt concerns a couple known for throwing excellent dinner parties and encouraged by friends into opening a restaurant, only to realize that people are far more likely to show up when the food is free. There is a lesson or two here for prospective bar owners. / I'll also recommend two websites. The first is news.imagethief.com, created by “an American spin doctor in Beijing” who provides insights into both the PR field and life in the Middle Kingdom. (His “ How to Survive a Chinese Drinking Party” is a modern-day “Art of War” for those battling a night of baijiu.) The second is danwei.org, which tracks “media, advertising and urban life” in China, and is run by the brains behind the sexy Centro ad campaign. / I'm not a big fan of bartenders doing fancy tricks with bottles, but this guy, apparently at Beijing's Salsa Caribe, is impressive: www.youtube.com/watch?v=agRiiO6-Po0. / To those who have patiently been waiting for my Whisky and Bour bon Society, I will send out a survey by Monday to find out where, when and how often you would like to meet. If you are interested in the society but do not receive the survey, please let me know. (Note: I've contacted several distilleries about this project and will provide an update next issue.) / My goal when starting this newsletter last October was 500 readers. On Wednesday, thanks to Adam D. signing up, I reached it. Who are your fellow readers? There are 130 people working in hotels, restaurants, bars, or wine and spirits companies, 80 in the local and foreign media, and 290 that hold jobs ranging from diplomat to homemaker to English teacher to businessperson. I owe many thanks to those readers who have passed on this newsletter to their friends and acquaintances over the past ten months. I'll be back next issue with reviews of Face (first impressions are good) and A Che (a Cuba-inspired spot), and notes on pairing Chinese food and wine. Until then, eat, drink and be merry. Cheers, BB.

with Big Bamboo , Blue Frog, Senses , Zapata's, Cotton's, South Beauty , and two dozen more spots, as well as three conversations: What About Bob? ; Musical Chairs; and Shaky, Not Stirring.

OPENING SHOTS : This issue covers 30 drinking holes in Shanghai and is twice as long as usual, so I will save until next time my Beijing content, including reports on Capital Club , Durty Nellie’s , 5:19 , Modern Nomads (Mongolian vodka martinis, just across from Banana Leaf ), Browns (which broke the Zing by Doodoo record for most mafang-to-get drink: 20 minutes , including four trips to the bar, and that was with the help of the supervisor, manager AND owner), a John Bull Pub wine tasting, the inaugural Agent Red Wolf Long Island Iced Tea and Mojito Awards , the future of bartending experts George and Echo , who quit at Midnight a few hours ago, so you might want to skip that place for cocktails (more on this, including a cheesy headline such as “ Sundown at Midnight ,” coming up), and any other spots I visit over the next ten days. I'll also respond to those readers who will no doubt claim I have completely misrepresented Shanghai 's pub scene.

BEIJING VERSUS SHANGHAI : north versus south, politics versus business, center of the universe versus city by the sea ; the former claiming the latter values style over substance, the latter caring not what the former thinks; two siblings with bar scenes divergent. Some brief observations about the drinking holes of our neighbor, based on three days of research last week and three last year, after which I'll make some gross generalizations about how our two cities stack up. Unless noted, comments on each bar are based on a single visit (readers in Shanghai may now commence shaking their heads in disgust and rolling their eyes in disbelief ). For added perspective, I asked D-Rock , Kraft-D , Alpha Veda and Winopete for their input. I was unable to complete my to-do list, which includes Zin , Laris , Long Bar , The Cotton Club , House of Blues and Jazz , and Sasha’s , meaning another trip is soon in order. Finally, given the length of this issue and my limited time for writing it, I apologize for it being too verbose .

Big Bamboo Owner Bryce Jenner supports numerous sports teams, including the local ice dogs, and is contemplating buying a bus for them (and the patrons?). He's also planning to add bigger flat-panel TVs . Tiger beer: 40 kuai (20 kuai during happy hour). Weak points include so-so food (the nachos were particularly sub-par) and a deceptive step just inside the door, on which I saw a dozen people trip. Overall, though, a big thumb up for Big Bamboo , where I enjoyed chatting with friends, playing an expert foosball player (even notched two goals) and watching, with the bar packed to the rafters, the Olympic gold medal hockey game between Sweden and Finland (the place went crazy with that electrifying finish ).

Next up was the trendier, pricier, dimmer and more cramped BLUE FROG (Tongren branch). I went with D-Rock, Kraft-D and Alpha Veda (AV) and friends for dinner, and tracked down the owner, who shares my family name. Thus occurred, Conversation 1: What about Bob?

[The first floor of the bar is sparsely populated. A patron is about to make a simple query.]

Me: “Is Bob Boyce here?”

Employee behind the bar: “What?”

“Bob Boyce, the owner.”

Employee hands me a pack of Marlboros .

“I don't want cigarettes. I'm looking for Bob Boyce. The owner. Boss. Laoban.”

He confers with a colleague and then makes a vague hand gesture toward the bar's end. I walk there; see a guy talking on a cell phone; wait until he's finished.

Me: “Hi, are you Bob Boyce?”

Guy: “Excuse me?”

“Are you Bob Boyce?”

“[Sarcastically] No, but I could pretend to be him for five minutes.”

And there you have it folks. My second stop in Shanghai and I already knew where to find quality service AND comedy . I eventually did track Bob down. He owns four Blue Frog outlets and a place called KABB (see below), and is a bit of a legend in the local bar scene , having opened his first bottles almost a decade ago on Maoming (which is apparently on its last legs and faces the same fate as did our Sanlitun South a year ago). Each Blue Frog is geared to its location, so if you either like or dislike one, don't hold it against the others. The name itself comes from an ancient Greek hallucinatory drink containing blue curacao, ouzo, and secretions from a frog native only to Sparta (the garnish is three olives on a tiny plastic Sword of Damocles ). Okay, I made that last part up, because I forgot to ask Bob about the name, but a Yahoo search reveals that “blue frog” jumped into his head one day. Bob's thinking of making the leap to Beijing to open a bar.

Anyway, I rejoined my friends upstairs just in time for conversations about US-Canada relations, the role of global elites, Mongolian hedge funds : pros and cons, and new perspectives on images of Ganesh in modern Indian poetry. (Okay, I also made up those last two, but these are the kinds of topics that spin off when someone shows up with a serious book like, “ Policing Shanghai , 1927-1937.” Nice work, Jay!). By the way, of the four hamburgers I had in Shanghai, Blue Frog's was the best, and had a perfectly cooked patty (more pickle would have been nice). During Happy Hour, it was 70 kuai and included a large draft. The place itself seems more appropriate for a first date than our restless and ready -for-the-town group, so we headed to…

MANHATTAN , where on my last visit I saw a fun Filipino band. The place was virtually empty this time around, so we continued on to SENSES wine bar (thanks to readers GT and CD for the tip). In theory, I love this spot – an establishment dedicated to wine and with a good selection available by the glass. One drawback is the mish mash of patterns on the wall, the kitschy pink rafter lights et al (for a successful recreation room re-creation, see Plan B). We came at the tail end of a wine-tasting event and tried some of those vintages, along with a passable Grace Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon , though Kraft-D didn't like it – as he mentioned at least eight dozen times. (I'm convinced he would be just as critical if I filled his glass with Chateau Latour and told him it was Chinese wine. And yes, that's a cheap shot.) The wines range from Frontera Cabernet Sauvigon and Two Oceans Shiraz at 200 kuai to Wolf Blass Gold Label 2002 at 510 kuai to Grand Cru territory. Monday features 25-kuai glasses of wine ; Tuesday has 30 percent off bottles; Wednesday and Thursday gets you a one-kuai meal with any bottle bought; and there is a BBQ on the weekend. Kraft-D said that Senses outdoor seating area is “among the most outstanding features of the place.”

Owner Matt Ryan kindly sat down and talked to us about the wine business, noting a Qingdao Riesling and a Xinjiang ice wine (first I'd heard of them). After polishing off our third bottle, he proclaimed, “ Hamburger time, fellows. ” We headed off, but not before the owner in question went toe-to-toe with six bouncers across the street – all in the Olympic spirit , of course – over the issue of grabbing taxis. A man who can handle a corkscrew and has Jackie Chan moves – ladies, what are you waiting for?

I recall little about the EAGER BEAVER , except it had high chairs , a neighborhood bar feel , and more chalk graffiti than an art school. Matt kindly manned the bar until someone appeared from the back and we were soon inhaling burgers (barbecued, toasted bun) and fries (RMB35). It was a perfect way to deal with the post-Midnight munchies . (Note: My apologies for yelling at the guy who announced, “ Curling is not a sport .” Yes, he is entitled to his opinion and I should have remained placid , but really, until you've tried picking up a heavy rock, sliding it along the ice, and aiming, with perfect weight, to an exact spot far, FAR away , you might want to keep an open mind. Even so, my apologies, and should we meet again, the next Beaver burger is on me. PS Curling IS a sport. )

FRIDAY

D-Rock and I ate lunch at MALONE’S so I could try the burger, which like Blue Frog's, made it to the semifinals of a recent contest by SH magazine (which is quite good, by the way, but lags behind that's Beijing ). Malone's menu has 18 kinds of burgers, from a “ Fajita ,” with cheddar, sour cream, salsa, onion and peppers, to a “ Cowboy ,” with jack cheese, bacon, and fried mushrooms and onions (all of them are 48 kuai, with fries and salad). The place has a cafeteria feel about it: the free refills of watery iced tea, the ketchup and Thousand Island dressing that looked institutional, and the fries that seemed as though they were cooked in a fifty-pound lot. The saving grace: the burger was good .

D-Rock was dispassionate about his burrito: “ It's mediocre and there's lot of it. ” Perhaps that's the point: Malone's is a place for groups of businesspeople to get together, chat, have a big if not spectacular meal, and then go back to the office completely carbed up , all for a fairly low price. Certainly, there is a need for such spots. Given the long bar and the posters advertising live music , I have a feeling I would like Malone's a lot more at night, and will visit again when I return to Shanghai.

(Note: RENDEZ-VOUS CAFE is considered by many to have the best burgers in town. While the cafe's decor is nothing to write home about – the centerpiece is an oversized Heineken bottle on a wall unit – the burger is indeed tasty, if a bit pliable. Blue Frog 's burger, however, gets my vote for taste , with Rendez-vous holding its own if you figure in value – 30 kuai, including fries and drink.)

While getting my free wireless fix at Big Bamboo, lo and behold, there appeared on a stool a few meters away an icon of the Taipei bar scene – Winopete . His happy hour newsletter a few years back had a cult following, the legend being made when, due to unwavering diligence , he discovered a hole-in-the-wall bar where three large bottles of Taiwan draft for three dollars . All hail the master! This fateful meeting could only mean one thing: it was time for the British pubs.

We started at BRITISH BULLDOG , a standard two-floor pub, though be forewarned: avoid the seat near the door , since the dip in the ceiling blocks half of the big-screen TV and the nearby heater blows right on your face. Ever the handyman and realizing that the nearby owner and waitresses were not about to do anything, I adjusted the heater vents . Pete had gotten us there just in time (no surprise) for happy hour (6 to 8 PM), which meant two-for-one . Except for our friendly, funny, bubbly waitress , the Bulldogs were pretty mellow, with people prone and evidently letting a week's worth of stress evaporate. Note: British Bulldog has two Tiger beers plus free flow curry for 100 kuai on Mondays, a trivia night, and British comedy and films on weekends.

O'MALLEY’S is set off the street, behind a wall, and has nice outdoor seating. Inside, the main floor has plenty of nooks and crannies , one of which contained two friends from Taiwan, De Usher and K-Gin . After hugs and kisses, we headed for floor two, which was rustic and airy , especially with those high rafters. O'Malley's has been around since 1996, says Pete, but – and this is a major black mark in his book – has no happy hour. He also criticized having Frontera as a house wine (“They could do better. Even Eaglehawk is better than this. “) and the high prices (“It's hard to find a more expensive bar like this than O'Malley's.”). A pint of Guinness: 65 kuai. The Bloody Mary was okay, the staff was friendly, and I thought it was worth the stop .

Third up was the nearby BLARNEY STONE , where we met D-Rock and Kraft-D. Fairly empty when we arrived, the place was soon bustling. Service was okay , though D-Rock though the staff a bit lethargic. Carlsberg: 40 kuai a pint; I think Guinness was 65 kuai. Blarney Stone seemed quite cliquish , with a lot of couples and small groups. On the other hand, friends have told me it's a great place to strike up conversations with strangers. Kraft-D described it as “not overly commercial” and I can only say: more research required. (Note: This is not a good place to practice your Irish imitations, even if they are in good fun.)

With three British pubs under our belts, we headed to Hongmei Street , which is pretty much in the middle of… nowhere. This area is expected to be booming in a few years, but unfortunately my trip was measured in a few days. Our first stop was BE BOP , which has an identity crisis. On the speakers: reggae . On the tube: NBA basketball . On the walls: too much neon , alongside art that ranged from traditional prints to cheesy nudes . On the tables: dice games . On the chairs: bar staff willing to lend an ear to a lonely fellow. This place seemed to be a combination of Taipei 's Combat Zone and Beijing 's Sanlitun North strip. If you're male and looking for someone to talk to (note: you'll be buying drinks for two ), Be Bop might be for you.

A few doors down the empty street was BABY BAMBOO , Big Bamboo's second outlet, and one of only three places with more than a handful of customers. (Witness our visit to the Blue Frog branch nearby, where the chairs were already stacked for the night.) The pole dancer gave the place a slightly sleazy feeling which, as D-Rock noted, isn't exactly going to bring in female clients, the absence of which is not exactly going to bring in male clients. The bar had the standard two-floor layout – a bar downstairs, a pool table upstairs. “ It's like Big Bamboo, but smaller ,” said Kraft-D, thereby affirming that putting “baby” in the name was a good call. “It's the right size for this street. It might one day outgrow the space, but right now it works .” Tiger Beer: 35 kuai.

Our last Hongmei stop was 3D , which we couldn't pass up after spotting the window display of beer . This was a cozy place and had the only genuine bar ambience on the street. I had two wishes: one, that I hadn't been too tired to keep more notes, and two, that this had been our first stop on Hongmei.

With Kraft-D heading home, D-Rock and I decided to hit one more place – Park 97 . This is a high-end bar chock full of “ the beautiful people ” – except for the sick guy in the bathroom who sounded like he was trying to eject his lungs through his nostrils . Drinking lesson number one: know thy limit . Park 97 is comfortable but pricey (Heineken: 55 kuai), and offers good music and plenty of people-watching opportunities . Going there is like going to Tokyo : if you have the money, you will have the funny .

SATURDAY

Night three began at KAAB , in Xintiendi, a contrived area reminiscent of, though more upscale than our Lotus Lane in Houhai . KABB has a warm and cozy feel, but the seating is overly tight, with tables barely big enough to hold a plate and a drink, thus bringing us to, Conversation II: musical chairs :

[Two attractive - by some standard in some place, surely. No!? Oh well - patrons enter the bar, planning to have drinks and dinner with two friends who will arrive a bit later.]

D-Rock: “Table for four.”

Hostess looks around, and around, and around, seeming unable to decide, or to care about, where to seat us. I optimistically motion to a nearby table .

Hostess: “ That's reserved .”

We swivel some more. Just as I'm getting dizzy , she turns and points to a table in the corner. “There.”

D-Rock: “That has a reservation sign, too.”

She frowns for a second, then steps forward and removes the sign .

“There.”

Guess what happens five minutes later ? A group of eight comes in and sits down beside us. They obviously lack space since, ta da, the hostess just gave it to us . So much for planning ahead. We offer them one of our TV-tray sized tables . That leaves us one and D-Rock loses his happy shiny feeling . “I want to go to a place where everybody knows my name and they're always glad I came,” he says, and since we no longer have room for Kraft-D and Alpha Veda, we decide to skip dinner , have a quick drink , and meet them elsewhere. This brings us to, Conversation III: Shaky, not stirring:

A waitress approaches our table and gives us a blank look . I translate this as having four possible meanings: 1) “What would you like to order?”, 2) “Why did you people have to come here and make my life more difficult ?”; 3) “If we switch to a PDA-based F&B ordering system linked to all Blue Frog and KABB branches, we could realize economies of scale , save on HR costs and invest in bigger tables ; 4) “If the chicken came before the egg, did the burger come before the bun? ”

Me: “ Martini , please.”

Nods and starts to walk away.

“Just a moment. I would like vodka , not gin.”

Starts to walk away.

“Just a moment. I want it stirred , not shaken. “

Looks both bored and bewildered, if that's possible, and in KABB it apparently is.

“I want it stirred [stirring motion], not shaken [shaking motion].”

Nods and starts to walk away.

“Just a moment. No olives , please.”

Perhaps it was the stop-and-go nature of our conversation, but this last request seemed to cause a spark, a kind of brain ignition , a realization that I cared about my drink, even if she didn't.

“Okay, you want a martini, vodka, stirred, no olives.”

And there you go: even sans Ouija board it IS possible to reach a disembodied spirit if you try hard enough. The martini (50 kuai) won't win any awards, but it was okay, and anyway, Bob suggested I test his staff on that drink, so with my mission completed , we headed for…

PAULANER , where in the early eve they seem to have 10 employees per patron , with every one of them trying to be helpful in a get-in-the-way kind of way. There is all the lebensraum you would expect from a place that charges 65 kuai for a gin and tonic and 68 kuai for draft beer (I had Munich dark ; it lacked any bite at all.) Nice ambience and decor , especially the main bar, but perhaps we were too early to feel the Zeitgeist . Kraft-D, ever the number cruncher , was unimpressed. “ They have ambitious pricing here ,” he said. “It's just upsetting to me to pay that price for this beer.” I was perturbed that the staff was so evasive about giving me an official receipt . They eventually told me to take their house receipt to the door for an official one. (Are you kidding?) Let's see, I pay 68 for a beer and it's my job to run around for a receipt. Pass.

Since we skipped out on the food at KABB and Paulaner, we headed to the MANCHURIAN SPECIAL FLAVOR JIAOZI RESTAURANT (the branch in Beijing ranks among my favorite spots for cheap Chinese food). You want service? How about a place that gets the beer flowing – 8 kuai, 500 ML bottle – while you wait in line ? We feasted on very tender pork ribs , three kinds of dumplings , eggplant, a beef and potato dish, and steamed tofu with gravy, chili and cilantro. It was solid fare, and the staff was friendly, though the service is quicker and the food hotter in Beijing (try the Dongzhimen branch).

After going relatively low end, we decided to move up a dozen notches and head to the new SOUTH BEAUTY . This place is lovely, being surrounded by water fountains and plenty of lawn. The bar has an intimate feeling and from where we sat we could hear only the murmur of distant conversation and an occasional burst of laughter . I felt like I was at a ritzy guest house where the owners had said, “ We'll be back in a few hours. Just relax and the staff will look after you. ” Of course, in this case we had to pay, but with the myriad rooms and seating options , the garden out back and the relaxed atmosphere, it was worth it, if only to feel my blood pressure drop and my muscles relax by the minute . There is a blackjack table nearby, though you can only play for drinks . As for the drinks, AV described her fruit smoothie (50 kuai) as “ creamy and fresh ,” while my martini (65 kuai) was decent, but came with three olives, despite my polite requests for an olive-free world. D-Rock noted that given the place's potential for cigar and Whisky lovers , the selection of the latter is quite weak , with only a few widely available brands. Even so, South Beauty is a nice change of pace and about the most extreme contrast you could get to…

ZAPATA’S , Shanghai 's equivalent of Browns in Beijing and Carnegie's in Taipei , which means wild, all-night fun. The place has a nice open Mexico-themed layout on two levels, both of which have dancing areas. The bottom one includes a large bar top, on which people get up and dance (in fact, that's the whole point). From a Grease medley to ABBA , the music had the unpretentious clientele in high spirits and at one point a staff member jumped on the bar and started pouring tequila into the mouths of patrons below . As much fun as that sounds, the catch-22 is that you always end up with a few people who get too drunk and turn into jerks, but such is life. You can't have everything (including, in one case, drinks. side of the bar to order drinks and a bouncer back there crudely waved me away , pointing to the front, which was completely packed. As he stood there with arms crossed in a macho pose and stared at the crowd , someone moved in front of me and ordered. Now the bouncer realized that he was in the wrong, but rather than help me get my drink and salvage the situation – in other words, be “professional” – he stayed in tough-guy mode . The bartender finally spotted me and just as he handed over the drinks, the bouncer waves me away again. Nice job, Einstein . Yes, these things happen, but these things also need to be pointed out so we can minimize their occurrence). Anyway, Zapata's is a fun place , especially if you're with a group of friends, and is apparently crazy on ladies' night (Wednesdays). If you get claustrophobic, pop into the spacious courtyard outside for a breather (it backs onto Sasha's). By the way, the coat check and lockers are nice touches.

Next up was COTTON’S , which seemed to be headquarters for the young white professional crowd. It's in a three-floor house, with seating outside, although we stuck to the first floor (I know, I know, I missed out on the fireplaces). “It's like a big house party ,” said AV. Yes, except that you have to pay 40 kuai for a beer and get bumped nonstop by other patrons. “It's 65-70 percent Caucasian and they are drinking, drinking, drinking ,” said Kraft-D, marveling at the cash flow. Cotton's is apparently a hip place to rent a room and play board games or just hang out with friends. Gin and tonic: 38; bottled beer: 38-45; martini: 45; sound system downstairs: 3/10.

D-Rock picked our last stop: PLAN B . This place had a Wayne's World / recreation room feel to it, evident in everything from the wall poster art to the rickety railing. D-Rock describes it as having “one of the world's largest repositories of dot matrix printouts featuring men with mullets .” And if you love alternative rock and punk , then you'll love Plan B. Funnily enough, I was talking to one of the owners and watching the Olympics when an employee walked over, stuck the remote control between our heads, and turned off the TV. Nice work, buddy . Fortunately, a firm word got the TV back on – just in time to see the end of the women's 1500-meter speed skating gold medal race , among the most inspiring of the games (did I mention that curling is a sport ?). With Plan B closing for the night, D-Rock and I initiated Plan C and headed home.

AND NOW A FEW NOTES on places that I visited on my last trip , last year, with Sweet n' Liu (SL) and D-Rock:

NEW HEIGHTS : On the Bund, the place has a deck with an excellent view of Pudong and the strait separating it from Shanghai proper (watch giant Karaokes / restaurants , done in a traditional Chinese style, languidly float by). The hamburger was tasty, though prohibitive (over 100 kuai); the martini (65 kuai) was okay.

BAR ROUGE : At 18 on the Bund, it also offers an excellent view of Pudong, and has better martinis (60 kuai). The patrons were stylish and in some cases snobbish (perhaps it's because SL and I were soaked from the rain ), and seemed split between those there to impress each other and those looking for a little love. Bar Rouge seems to specialize in giant bowls of shooters in dry ice . I guess that's a niche. Each night, the bartenders, who have obviously watched their fair share of Cocktail, light the bar top on fire . (Normally I'm not a fan of that kind of thing, but in this case, the flames helped to dry our clothes .)

JUDY’S : A rough and ready place that was hopping during my two visits and with clientele whose ages span five decades. A couple of pole dancers showed up around 11. Does this sort of thing really increase the number of customers? Anyway, call it a smaller, cheaper Zapata’s .

STUDIO 78 : Having just eaten a massive Xinjiang meal , we were feeling lethargic . Plus, Studio 78 was virtually empty . Plus, sitting on the bean bag chairs was an exercise in balance . Plus, there was something weird about the bathroom, but I can't remember what. My point: I can't judge the place based on this one visit, particularly since I had the attitude of a boa that just ingested a horse and because the music was good if cheesy . This could be a great place when crowded. More research required.

MANHATTAN : The excellent Filipino band gave this place a good deal of energy . It had a high proportion of older Western men and younger Chinese women, and I sense some short-term M&A action was happening (why did this place make me think of Maggie’s in Beijing ?). The staff was fairly friendly and efficient, though strangely enough, on both my visits, which spanned several months, I was told: “ We don't have a drinks menu, but it will be in a few days .” Hmmm.

MINT : Good music, good crowd , decent drinks. SL and I had fun hanging out here and even did some dancing. The cozy seating area includes some sofas and beds, and reminds me of a much more upscale Suzie Wong .

BARBAROSSA : Tons of wood and a view of a lotus pond – sit on the deck and enjoy the evening. This place is massive : apparently, over a thousand people were on hand for a joint chambers of commerce event last year, so make sure you've got your friend's cell phone numbers or risk being lost . The bartender was displeased when we complained that SL's drink was too salty. Ah, the nerve of these customers!

WINDOWS : In a basement, it's a vast, low-ceilinged, sweaty place with a sticky floor and 10-kuai drinks . Even with a bad cold, you can smell the bathrooms from 50 meters away and the risk of getting a piece of toilet paper stuck to your show is extremely high. Think of a bigger, dirtier Kai Club 'underground. Simple observation suggests this is a major pick-up joint – I think the numerous couples making out on the cheap plastic chairs gave it away. Should any of these relationships lead to marriage, I'd love to hear the “ how we first met” stories: “It was magical. Mei Hua was standing there covered in sweat, fighting off two guys and holding a ten-kuai gin and tonic in each hand, all with the cutest four-meter stream of toilet paper stuck to her stiletto shoes. I couldn't resist!”)

AMERICAN CLUB : Set on the 28th floor, it looks straight down the strait separating Pudong and the Bund; thereby offering a tremendous view . SL and I went here for a wine tasting and I marveled at the incredible skyline .

YOU SAY BEIJING, I SAY SHANGHAI

After all this research, what conclusions (also known as gross generalizations) can we draw about bar scenes in our two cities , all while freely admitting that more – much more – study is required?

Take one can, add sardines : From mid-range coffee shop Gino’s to trendy-among-professionals KABB to mansion-rebuilt-into-house-party Cotton's, some Shanghai establishments seem to go to new heights to see just how many chairs (and bodies) they can cram into a given space. Is it perhaps a case of vertical Shanghai versus horizontal Beijing ? Whatever it is, the latter offers far more elbow room .

Service ability : Shanghai bartenders and wait staff generally provide better service than their counterparts in Beijing. They are more customer-oriented and tend to neither get fazed by customer requests that drift beyond their immediate experience, nor personally insulted by the slightest criticism of the bar.

Money this, money that : It seems like nearly every expatriate in Shanghai is there for business , whereas in Beijing you regularly run into, along with businesspeople, everyone from embassy staff to students fanatical about Chinese culture and language . And unlike Shanghai, you rarely (ever?) find bars in Beijing where Caucasians make up the vast majority of the clientele (that's an observation, not a judgment).

I get around : The taxis in Beijing are better , but the drivers in Shanghai are more professional , whether it's being more polite or keeping their vehicles clean and odor-free. In Beijing, asking a taxi driver to turn down his or her radio – yes, sometimes it's so loud he or she cannot even hear you – can bring a dose of attitude in response. On the other hand, getting a taxi in Shanghai can be a nightmare. As Kraft-D says, “In Beijing, I never planned a night around whether I thought I could get a taxi or not.”

Pocketbook pressure : Drinks in Shanghai are rougher on your wallet or purse. Some higher-end places are worth it : who could complain about a 60-kuai martini at Bar Rouge when you have that view? But it would be tougher for spots like Plan B or Eager Beaver to charge their prices in Beijing, when there are plenty of similar places here with much cheaper drinks ( Phil's Pub : 10 kuai for a Qingdao).

CLOSING SHOTS : Those looking for more information on Shanghai nightlife can try these general sites: www.8days.sh; www.shanghaiist.com; www.cityweekend.com.cn/en/shanghai; www.thatssh.com; and www.smartshanghai.com. / Next issue, I'll be back with lots of reports on Beijing 's bar scene, including – as mentioned – those tasty Mongolian vodka martinis at Modern Nomads and an update on Midnight. Cheers. BB.

• Opening Shots
• First Impressions, with icehouse, Schindler's, Faraway Cafe, Press Club, Fish Nation and South Beauty
• No Blues for Browns
• Beijing's Bar Bubble
• We Got Mail
• Closing Shots

OPENING SHOTS

Browns bolted onto the bar scene with an all-night two-for-one party and Beijing may never be the same. What makes this place special and can it and other bars targeting expatriate dollars survive? See below. / China passed the Entertainment Venues Management Regulations . Apparently, bars and Internet cafes are not covered by these rules, but then again, one investor writes: “This is some dire news for Beijing nightlife …. The new rule is that all Beijing KTVs, discos and the like must close at 2 AM. Bars were not expressly mentioned by name, but the inference is that they're included.” More details to come. / Midnight bartenders George and Echo and I came up with a raspberry, blackberry and cherry martini , with a lemon zing. 不壞。 If you're thirsting for a fruity drink with a solid kick, try their GE (that's “G” for George and “E” for Echo) – lychee liqueur, grapefruit juice, 151 rum and grenadine. / This Friday, John Bull Pub will hold a free tasting of wines from Taillan , a nine-year-old Sino-French venture just outside Beijing. Taillan's Alain Leroux will be on hand to guide tasters and handle bottle sales. Call 13301-377-336 or email frank_siegel@hotmail.com for details. / Speaking of which, red wine should not be served near ice cold , so why does it sometimes come that way even at reputable places, such as Centro and Pavillion? / Beers recently spotted at Jenny Lou's on Sanlitun North: JW Dundee's Honey Brown Lager ( Rochester , New York ) – 12.6 kuai; Beer Royal ( Italy ) – 13.6 kuai; Green King Indian Pale Ale (UK) – 12.6 kuai; and “beer with vitamins” Los Labos (US) – 10.6 kuai. / Also spotted at Jenny Lou's: European chamber of commerce head Giorgio Magistrelli : for all you pasta lovers out there, Giorgio hails from Italy and a peek in his cart shows his preferred brand is De Cecco . / Food establishment name of the week: “ Beard Papa 's Pipin' Hot Cream Puffs” ( Oriental Plaza ). / A look ahead: the next issue will include a rundown on Shanghai bars and a report on six Chinese wines .

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

ICEHOUSE (Wangfujing) has reopened after a two-month hiatus. The new layout includes tiered seating , with sofas and lounge chairs on the wings, table seating in the middle and an extended bar in back (a foot rail would be nice). This offsets the overly hollow and boxy feel of the original design, though the place feels otherwise unchanged. As for music, Melvin Taylor and the Slack Band play blues “pure and simple” and did a nice BB King cover. The near-capacity crowd last Saturday night was clearly appreciative. As for drinks, I ordered a dry martini and said — no olives — to the wait staff in both English and Mandarin. Of course, it came with olives. The martini was passable , the Cosmopolitan anemic , the Long Island Iced Tea tasty . Drinks are a quite reasonable 45 kuai given there is no cover charge for the band. As for food, the staff wasn't sure if any was available, but my friend used her natural charm to secure some seafood rice – delicious, but prohibitive at 60 kuai. Overall, the new icehouse is moderately more comfortable and has infinitely more appropriate music than the old. It's a must for blues fans . (I still think it would be cool if they did something with frozen vodka shots, such as making a mini-bar out of ice, with openings for the bottles. I mean, it's not too literal given that the owners named a Qing Dynasty icehouse “icehouse.”) Fancy an assault on your heart and liver? Go to SCHINDLER’S (south gate, Ritan Park ) and down a platter of grilled meat and spuds (85 kuai), accompanied by a steady supply of German draft (22-27 per pint). If you're not a big eater, you're best off splitting a dish with a friend. Schindler's offers solid fare and good brew in an atmosphere where being noisy seems mandatory. Lebe das guten Leben. (Another branch will open in the old Riverside Cafe spot.) THE PRESS CLUB (St. Regis): It is in what is supposedly a “six-star” hotel, though the service lags about three stars behind. Decent but over-priced booze in a stuffy atmosphere that makes me want to pretend, in hushed tones, that I have some influence in the universe. (“I tell you Davis, if we can get Chip to think outside the box, we'll corner the kimchi market .”) M-Dawg and I had dinner at FARAWAY CAFE , just south of the Gongti West club zone, saving a planned kangaroo burger night at Jack 's for next time. He gave a thumb up to the goat cheese and vegetable salad , but found the chicken rolls a bit skimpy on the meat. Also on the runway model end of plumpness was my half-chicken (55 kuai), the meager meat an insufficient match for the rich sauce on the green peppers, zucchinis and onions. Faraway Cafe has a nice outdoor seating area , which will be pleasant come spring, though the interior is a bit Spartan. The wait staff was quite pleasant. The big screen showing Chinese soap operas is just plain annoying. Final words to M-Dawg: “The presentation [of the food] is relatively professional, but the decor leaves me cold.” Besides being a drinking hole, Browns offers lunch specials. I had the steak sandwich , modest in size but tasty , accompanied by homemade fries, a small salad and tomato soup, the latter feeling like the first healthy thing I've had this year (45 kuai). The burgers and pizza are also worth trying. By the way, Browns may be the only place in town with hamburger relish. I finally went to FISH NATION (Sanlitun North), which I have passed dozens of times, but have always avoided given the crowds. Now I understand its popularity. Battered fish (one big and one small), chips (perfectly cooked and salted) and a Qindao: 40 kuai. As I sat at the counter, I'm not sure which was gurgling louder , the deep fryers or my stomach in anticipation of the eats. Fish Nation ain't fancy and only seats eight, but the staff knows how to use oil. (Note: Fish Nation delivers, Sundays to Thursday.) A foreigner suffering from a week of Beijing culture shock finds himself in an underground mall where disoriented by omnipresent fluorescent light he scuttles past nondescript storefronts, plastic plants and faceless shoppers, his heart fluttering faster and faster until it reaches LEVEL: PANIC ATTACK and he fumbles and then stumbles and then tumbles into a room reminiscent of a Mongolian yurtz with cable-steel curtains and fur-covered walls and a table at which sits a man that he vaguely remembers but, oh, wait, oh yes, the man once had a beard and plain glasses and now he's clean-shaven and tanned and wearing designer shades and holding a pork pie hat - Sound like the opening of some weird dream sequence-laden movie starring Kiefer Sutherland ? Actually, it's only a slightly dramatized account of my efforts to find the Sechuan restaurant SOUTH BEAUTY in Oriental Plaza to meet an acquaintance who has become the hippest looking guy I know. As for South Beauty's food, I was too traumatized by the events leading up to the meal, including having to remove shoes that got wet earlier in the day and thus presenting the aromatic equivalency of a Chengdu hotpot loaded with stinky tofu . I'll get back to you with a review of South Beauty right after I finish therapy.

NO BLUES FOR BROWNS

Browns put its money where its mouth is by holding an all-night two-for-one party two weeks ago. The special didn't suddenly end halfway through the evening when the owner panicked about losing money. It wasn't limited to those drinks that are dirt cheap to make. And the drinks themselves were not watered down. It all raised the question: Was this really happening in Beijing? I mean, did I really witness from opening to closing – which came some time after I left at 4 AM – Guinness and Kilkenny for a mere 17.5 kuai per pint ? Browns move surprised some bar owners, particularly since Guinness costs them around 30 kuai a pint, but to me it made perfect sense. The bar lost money on the draft, made money on the mixed drinks, and on the night ended up just below break-even, a loss that was a fraction of the cost of a magazine ad and that was necessary to show off the place to hundreds of people. It 's called marketing . I've now been to Browns about ten times, either for drinks or food, and it has the potential of becoming the year 's best bar . (Its impact is already evident from the scores of wine, food, hotel, and bar industry people checking it out). First, the investors (11 in total) have put money not only into hardware , but also into software . The hardware was fairly easy since the bar is a knockoff of Carnegie's in Taipei , with everything copied from the list of 366 shooters to the general layout, which includes a standing area, tiered seating, and a long bar to hold both drinks and dancers. In terms of software, Browns has hired employees from Beijing, Hong Kong, The Philippines and Ireland, and is putting money into marketing. Second, Browns is unpretentious . The clientele includes expatriates and locals, equal numbers of men and women, and everyone from twenty-something students to sixty-something CEOs. Blue jeans and blue pinstripe suits are equally welcome . Third, the location is good , near the Bookworm, Midnight, Banana Leaf and numerous other places. These establishments are bringing an increasing number of customers to the area and complementing one other. And fourth, it offers something new . Love it or hate it, the people I talked to saw it as distinguished from other bars (except Agent Red Wolf, who, based on the crowd, said it reminded her of “ a big Suzie Wong’s “). Given it is a new bar, there are some issues to iron out. Browns does not take credit cards , the menu is full of mistakes (“Long Sex Island Beach”) and some employees have incredible difficulty understanding drink orders (my friend Pony suggests numbering the shooter specials: “number three” is easier for non-English speaking staff to comprehend than “Fisherman's Wharf” or “Hell on Earth”). Extremely annoying wall monitors are everywhere. And Eddie O, at Browns last Saturday night, says, “You should never ask, ' How would you like your ribs done? ' That's just not a question you ask about ribs.” Worst of all is the inconsistent music . During the two-for-one party, the DJ played plenty of recognizable if somewhat cheesy songs , including hits by eighties artists ranging from Billy Idol to Soft Cell to Michael Jackson. One week later? After hours of soul-draining dance tunes, the DJ suddenly yelled, “My name is Matt and I am your maestro!” (Yawn.) Really, do we need someone to shout things like “Let's get the party started and, uh, uh, uh… it's two for one!” It gives the place all the class of a small-town high school dance . (It also feels like Browns is trying a bit too hard to get the dance-on-the-bar-top thing going.) Carnegie's in Taipei thrives because it is consistent, including with its music. It's a good model to follow and if Browns is as clever at running the bar as it was in opening it, this place should succeed. (By the way, if someone says “ this is the hottest bar in town ” at the very moment you are listening to Michael Jackson's “ Beat It ,” having an ordinary gin and tonic and watching two nerdy expatriates try to pick up a pair of local cuties, does that say more about Browns or about the local bar scene?)

BEIJING 'S BAR BUBBLE

A lot has been made about the growing number of clubs on Gongti West Road , which has risen from zero to about ten in less than a year, and includes Babyface , Cargo , Angel , and numerous copycats. How can these places survive? Perhaps, it's because they are going after young, moneyed Chinese – the “ Chivas and green tea club ” – a rapidly growing group. More troubling is the increasing number of players seeking a chunk of the moneyed expatriate market – not exactly the fastest growing demographic – especially those opening multifunction establishments . Just opened: Browns , a British-style pub that will add adjoining sake, tequila and vodka bars; just re-opened: icehouse , a blues bar attached to a high-end Japanese restaurant and a lounge; soon to open: Trio , a three-floor facility that will have a New York-style grill, the new Frank's Place , and The Cellar . I've already indicated to some of the investors in these multipurpose places that I think they are a bit mad. They have assured me that the feeling is mutual – several claim to have proof to back up their assertions. But when you add in other newcomers, such as The Pavillion and The Pomegranate , and older establishments ranging from John Bull Pub to Big Easy to Suzy Wong to Centro , one wonders if there are enough patrons to go around. I actually started breaking down some of these places, including Browns, icehouse, Trio and Pavillion, into pluses, minuses and questions marks in order to get some grip on who's got the best chance of surviving, but since I'm already running over this issue and I just got to Shanghai and am busy with research (translation: meeting friends and checking restaurants and bars), I'll pick up on this theme next issue.

WE GOT MAIL

“ Good gay clubs – I have a friend coming in for three weeks who most definitely is (I most definitely am not) and I wanted to point him in the right direction. Do you have any thoughts?” – GP

Point him toward On/Off and Destination , with the latter (according to Timeout) expanding by taking over the Thai restaurant next door. It's all part of the growing alternative bar scene. “The city has seen several gay and lesbian bars and nights open over the past six months – including Seven Colours drag bar, a mixed night at Sanlitun's Top Bar and lesbian Saturdays – at One Night ,” writes the magazine.

CLOSING SHOTS

I ran into Steve Kuhn , the brains behind beijinglives.com , in The Bookworm. The website is going strong with info on events, bars and restaurants, and real estate and business, and gives readers the option of ranking bars and restaurants (those with higher scores get bigger fonts). “It's interactive. Readers are also going to be writers ,” says Steve. He adds that organizations or bars are free to list their events on the site. / Expect plenty of write-ups on Shanghai spots next issues, including Judy's, New Heights, Big Bamboo, Blue Frog and Bar Rouge, along with the usual stories about Beijing bars . / Finally, it was fun meeting up with some readers of this newsletter during Browns' two-for-one party. Let's do it again, and soon. Cheers, BB.

A New Year brings new hope and to help upgrade Beijing's less-than-spectacular drinking scene, tbj humbly offers some resolutions for bar managers, employees and patrons. Of course, there are exceptions to (almost) every rule, but here are a few general habits that might make a night out a bit more enjoyable for all concerned.

For bar managers and employees

1. I shall not ask customers to pay for my mistakes, such as the difference between the RMB 60 I programmed into the cash register for a pint of Guinness and the RMB 50 I errantly printed on the menu; instead, I shall accept the one-time loss of revenue rather than the permanent loss of the customer.
2. I shall not remove, nor lay hand upon, a glass with more than a half-mouthful of liquid unless the patron has indicated that it be taken away; nor will I hover above said patron waiting for him/her to finish that mouthful; if I do so because of a shortage of glasses, I will take measures to have more purchased.
3. I shall not insert my finger(s) into my nose or ears, knead my armpits or nether region, or engage in any other unseemly hand-related conduct before touching food.
4. I shall not practice my Chinese, English, or other language ad infinitum with patrons, bore them with lengthy stories about a particular alcohol's history, or make asides on what are obviously their private conversations.
5. [For managers] I shall not chastise, denigrate or mock my employees in front of customers as it makes me look unprofessional and my customers feel uncomfortable; I will defend those same employees from patrons, drunk or otherwise, who are unreasonable, threatening or obnoxious.

For bar goers

6. I shall not equate the intelligence of a bar owner or employee with his/her proficiency in my language and will thus refrain from voicing such things as “gin AND tonic,” “ginnnnnnnn and tonnnnnnic” or “gin… and… tonic,” nor shall I become incensed by him/her misunderstanding my pathetic attempts at speaking his/her language.
7. I shall not assume that because I am in a boisterous mood, everyone else should be, and will thus refrain from hugging, giving high fives to, clinking glasses with at near-breakage speeds or inviting those patrons/strangers who are obviously uninterested to be members of my luge team.
8. I shall retreat to a secluded area when I expect to be on my cell phone for more than three minutes, thereby sparing fellow patrons stories about last night's “score,” pleas to an upset spouse, or the details of the soap opera about so-and-so's co-worker's boyfriend's best friend's sister breaking up with “some guy who totally is, like, soooooo lame.”
9. I shall not take advantage of my position as a patron to fondle the bar's owner, manager, bartenders, wait staff, cooks, cleaners, security guards or suppliers, or any of their relatives or pets that may happen to be on the premises.
10. I shall never reach behind the bar to grab objects, such as knives or corkscrews, nor stand there in an attempt to appear as part of the “in” clientele as I am only being a nuisance to the staff and as interesting as a coat rack to the patrons; should I go behind the bar, I will either wear a disguise or claim to be Da Shan, which would defeat the whole purpose of being back there in the first place, so instead I shall sit on my bar stool, drink my beer and relax.

Beijing Boyce

• Opening Shots, including Sanlitun South renaissance, Neo Lounge reborn and Beijing Cheese Society
• Beijing Saturday Night : Beer Mania, Browns , Palms, Nashville and Maggie’s
• Live from Oregon: Pinot Noir
• Mexican Wave
• House Party
• 42 new bars
• We Got Mail
• Closing Shots.

開幕SHOTS

Is it just me or is Sanlitun South Street going through a renaissance? The past six months have seen Midnight, Browns (see review below) and The Bookworm open, all good places and nice complements to decent longer-established spots, such as First Cafe and The Pink Loft . A reader calls it a “ golden age ” for the area, especially as the beggars, fake-CD sellers and “lady bar” touts are conspicuously absent. Enjoy it while it lasts, my friends. ~ Speaking of which, that entire plot of land, which encompasses the aforementioned spots as well as places such as Banana Leaf and The Loft has apparently just been bought. What does fate hold? ~ Henry Li , the brains behind the now-defunct Vogue and Neo Lounge , as well as Public Space in Sanlitun, will open a new spot at February's end. He said the 800-square-meter will be named after Duan Qirui , an early twentieth-century premier and warlord, on Pingan Avenue, four blocks west of Poly Plaza. ~ Mike W. reports that the Red Capital empire – comprising the Red Capital Club, Red Capital Guest House and Red Capital Ranch – has grown by hiring a new GM (from Indonesia) and floor manager (from Britain). Expect a full write-up next issue about Red Capital's most interesting bomb shelter bar (and its “Lin Biao's Crash” cocktail). ~ One year in and the Beijing Cheese Society , co-founded by Sharon Ruwart and Perri Dong , has matured into a most excellent club. With events featuring Spanish, South African, British, American and French cheeses under its belt; the society now fills its 50-seat events within two hours of sending out invites. Join the events list by emailing sruwart@gmail.com ~ Speaking of which, Perri, formerly known as that's Beijing's Cai Guy , is now working for ASC Fine Wines . ~ Yvonne C. passes on info that Le Palais Desserts and Lounge (www.lepalais.cn) has opened close to the Kerry Centre and has excellent sweets prepared by a Belgian pastry chef . ~ Phil, of Phil's Pub fame, is opening a bar in Qingdao. I suspect the main reason is to be closer to his beer source. ~ Last issue, I mentioned that IKEA is moving. Reader Eric H. reports that the new store will open in Wangjing in April and will be IKEA's largest store in Asia Pacific and second largest worldwide. ~ I'm hearing good things about Saddle , across from Apertivo , whether the place is filling up for NFL playoff games or doling out breakfast burritos . It's a snug spot. ~ The Pomegranate , in Shunyi, has an e-newsletter covering its televised sports schedule, weekly quiz and directions on finding the bar. Email the_pomegranate@yahoo.com with “subscribe” in the subject line. ~ Based on my careful observations of the past six months, about half of the men in Beijing bars do not wash their hands after using the toilet. Be careful with whom you share those complimentary peanuts .

A BEIJING SATURDAY NIGHT

Last Saturday night was supposed to entail getting together with friends for a few drinks. Instead, it turned into a bar-hopping marathon. I don't stay out until the wee hours any more, but this was an exception:

BEER MANIA (Sanlitun South; 20:15): You rarely go wrong by starting a night with a few Belgian brews, so RJ, SW and I met at Beer Mania. We pretty much had the place to ourselves as we sampled seven different beers, including a nice Rochefort . Manager Marc van Bever is planning to do beer tastings every Thursday. Patrons get to sample ten beers for 150 kuai. Call 13126-904-396 for details.

BROWNS (Sanlitun South; 22:45) Carnegie’s in Taipei is famous (infamous?) as the city's most raucous night spot, featuring great service, a massive beverage selection (including 366 shooters ), an admirable layout and a long bar where the wilder (and usually drunker) clients get up and dance the night and early morning away. It's a runaway success and now Browns is seeking to emulate it in Beijing (there are also Carnegie's in Hong Kong, Kuala Lumper and Perth, and Browns in Britain). With RJ heading home, Agent Red Wolf and WF joined us to check it out.

Although only open for two days, and having details to work out – the menu desperately needs a spell check: “ Soff drinks ”, “Carlsbery”, and on and on; there are some weird prices: 42 kuai for a martini, 43 kuai for a “martini favorite”; and the toilets need a cleaning – Browns has the potential to be a great bar and possibly the best of the year.

The martini was decent (though not particularly dry), the beer was reasonably priced (pints of Kilkenny and Guinness at 35 kuai ), and the thin-crust pizza was tasty . The staff , which includes five Filipinos, was polite and efficient (though they could drop the “ma'am” and “sir” stuff). Lisa , who handled our table, was excellent. And when Agent Red Wolf felt her Long Island Iced Tea needed more rum and lime, it was quickly topped up.

The long bar has a brass railing up top to keep the expected dancers from falling into the employees and massive shelves of alcohol. In front of the bar is a standing / dancing area, and behind that two levels of seating. The decor is flat black and white, with dark wood, brass and glass accents, and the walls contain music-themed pictures and instruments. The high ceilings will minimize smoke.

We had a nice chat with Lawrence Chen , the general manager, and Jacky Kong , the supervisor, who said they plan to open adjoining Mexican, Japanese and other themed rooms. 嗯。 In any case, a great start for Browns, with the only downside being that the spotlights and dance music were out of sync with the feel of the bar, especially given the sparse crowd. It just doesn't seem right to have electric guitars and pictures of Jimi Hendrix on the walls and then only play music typified by Black Eyed Peas “My Humps.”

PALMS (Chaoyang Park, South Gate; 00:30) Some random observations during my second visit to Palms: It's in a mall ; the menus are shaped like pianos and wine bottles; there are too many chairs; the men's and women's toilets are far from spotless and there was no toilet paper (again). When I ordered a martini, the waiter asked, “ With ice? ”

On the positive side, the management and staff at Palms are extremely friendly and open to comments. But something is amiss. Maybe it simply needs some fine-tuning with the drinks (my martini was sub-par) and decor. Or maybe the live music doesn't fit the environment (or maybe it's good in a bad way, depending on your taste). When I hear a band member shout out “everyone, sing along!” for “ Jesus Christ Superstar ,” I have to ask myself: Does anyone in the place know that song, let alone the words? Would it not be better to have fewer songs in English and more in Mandarin (a la Teresa Teng and Faye Wong ), thus drawing a moneyed Chinese crowd that would enjoy being in a big interactive KTV lounge?

By the by, after the set ended, SW started shouting out “ Phantom of the Opera! ” and got into in protracted negotiations with the singer that eventually ended with the band doing a raucous, if slightly over the top, rendition of “ Don't Cry For Me, Argentina .” That was the high point.

NASHVILLE (Maizidian; 01:40) When we rolled into Nashville , we figured the place would be half empty and the band finished. Instead, there was a good crowd on hand and singer-guitarist Chris had the place rocking. Bar-goers hooted out requests and sang along, and one patron got up and sang The House of the Rising Sun . (Note: This is the kind of atmosphere that Palms should be trying to create.) Good times all around as Chris cranked out everything from Lynyrd Skynyrd to Bryan Adams to Johnny Cash . Agent Red Wolf and WB both thought the Long Island Iced Teas were good.

MAGGIE’S (Ritan Park, South Gate; 02:50) We dropped SW off on our way home and then decided last-minute to keep the night going. The new Maggie's is much tamer than the old and the layout is too narrow, but as Agent Red Wolf points out, they play fun music. We unloaded a few of the calories picked up earlier in the night.

As usual, there were ample people-watching opportunities, with the guy beside us falling asleep on, and then falling off , his chair. He lay on the floor, apparently unconscious , for a few minutes. The security guards propped him up and then he suddenly popped back to life . I suspect something stronger than alcohol was in his system. Anyway, this incident seemed to inspire another man to move in on WF and it wasn't long before we spirited her away. To our horror, the hot dog stand outside had already closed !

Agent Red Wolf and I dropped off WF and decided that, sans hot dogs , we needed food. Where to go? The Den? Bellagio's? 7-ELEVEN? We ended up at Dacheng Jia (next to Gino's) and pigged out on dumplings, xiaolongbao, soybean milk and more. We briefly considered hitting one more spot, but decided to end the morning on a high note and get some sleep before Sunday brunch.

LIVE FROM OREGON: PINOT NOIR

Fifteen people gathered at Sequoia Cafe on January 20 for what we believe to be the first Oregon Pinot Noir tasting of its size in China. The wines were presented by Andrew Macdonald , whose family owns Seven Springs vineyard, ranked by Food and Wine magazine as one of America's ten best. Andrew knows some of the winemakers whose products we tried and gave insights into planting, pruning, cloning and harvesting. There were plenty of questions as he explained everything from the history of Oregon wine to the trials and tribulations of growing grapes.

“The wines tonight are all pioneers in one way or another,” said Andrew. So, onward ho! ” (Comments in quotation marks are his. The rest are mine and, as mentioned ad infinitum, I'm not an expert.)

2003 King Estate : lots of berry and cherry, more fruit in the body, a light finish. 2003 Ponzi : “The first producer in Oregon [and tending to follow traditional Burgundy styles]”; a pungent, alcoholic, slightly spicy nose; tasted like apples at the end. 2000 St. Innocent Seven Springs : “[This winemaker] started making wine with our grapes in the back of his Datsun pickup truck ”; great nose, nice body, I didn't take notes here, because I was too busy drinking; this was easily my favorite. 2001 Amity Vineyards : spicy, hot nose, fruity body and finish. 2003 Rex Hill : “the oak gives it a buttery taste”; maybe, but there was so much wood in this I felt like getting out the Pledge – lemon-scented, of course. In any case, it was good times and good wine all around, and you can't ask for more.

Note: I was lucky enough to have Galia Stern (Torres), Ethan Perk (Montrose), and Dan Sieber and a co-worker (Summergate) at my table. In addition to soaking up some wine, I absorbed a great deal of knowledge about the wine industry in China. (And Dan dispelled my belief that I could let wine breath by popping out the cork in a taxi . Apparently, you have to pour the wine into another vessel – my mouth? – and then back into the bottle for it to work.)

MEXICAN WAVE

M-dawg and I decided to check out Charlie’s , the oldest bar in town, but it was closed for renovations so we visited another “old timer” in Beijing – Mexican Wave . Home of the Beijing Hash , it is fairly comfy with some interesting wall murals, though the fish tank in the back room seems out of place. Even though it was a Wednesday night, the place was pretty busy.

Our burritos (RMB30) were delivered fairly quickly. Mine was lukewarm and a bit bland in contrast with the salsa which left my mouth burning. On the positive side, it was, um, filling. The trademark Mexican Wave beer was sold out, so we settled for Qingdao . They were, um, filling too. What else can you say about the place? M-dawg marveled at how it had been around since 1988: “It demonstrates staying power and has miraculously avoided being chai'd.”

The only major downsides were the eight-point, all-cap font in the menu (it looks better than it reads) and waiters continually slamming the kitchen door as they came out to deliver food.

HOUSE PARTY!

Yvonne Chin (Canadian Embassy) and Dan Segall (the brains behind Louisiana Restaurant's excellent chow) threw a house party a couple of weeks back. I can't remember the last time I saw such an eclectic mix of bottles in a home bar: Yeni Raki (from Turkey), Opal Nera, Buttershots Liqueur and Oh Canada Maple Syrup Liqueur , to name about four out of forty, all on the same countertop (I didn't even think to combine them into a shooter). Add 30 people, some food and you've got a party. So what does one of Beijing's top chefs serve? Nothing less than chicken wings from Indian Kitchen and a bunch of pizzas from Buono – what, you expect him to cook after a long day in the kitchen?

42 NEW BARS

As we approach the Year of the Dog, here are the bars and clubs I predict will emerge from Beijing's mist (okay, it's probably smog, but let's be optimistic).

Lady Bar : If you're male and walking down Sanlitun North, you've heard of this place hundreds of times – “Mister, lady bar, lady bar, massa-gee, looka looka! ” Now what seemed to be only myth will become reality as an official Lady Bar opens, complete with velour furniture, painted cement floors , karaoke machines and a hundred touts out front.

I sense people are embracing the challenges of life in Beijing and thus expect some bars with realist names, including Black Lung , The Dirty Glass, Meiyou Fapiao , Spit-stained Sidewalk, Traffic Jam , Bu Zhidao and Red Tape.

I also foresee a litter of Year of the Dog-themed bars (except for Doodoo , already taken by Zing). These will include Suzy Wang Wang , Bar-k, Arfa , Pooper Scooper, Gou Gou Bar , Ace of Spayed, Doghouse, Ruff house , and The Golden Fire Hydrant.

Given the popularity of Mix and Vics , I predict the following niche clubs: Fix (drug users), Hicks (farm clothing mandatory), Ticks (a place that bugs people), Wicks (gothic interior), Twix (chocolate fans), Trix (cereal fans), Matrix (Keanu Reeves fans) and Dominatrix (leather fans), as well as Dicks, Chix, Rick's, Lix, Nix, Pix, Quix, and Bricks and Clicks, among others.

5:18 , most likely between 5:17 and 5:19 (the latter two are real bars and nearly side by side on the same street).

Finally, as the Olympics get closer, entrepreneurs are gearing up to target tourists. Expect places such as The Five Rings, Do-Ping , Cheaters, The Pommel Horse , Opening Ceremony and, side by side, The Parallel Bars .

WE GOT MAIL

“Just wanted to let you know I wholeheartedly agree that Taiwan Beer rules! (Picture me giving you the devil's horns with my right hand).”- CP

What makes Taiwan Beer great – and I'm referring to the draft in the big green bottles – is its freshness. This stuff is like milk in that it has a due date of a few weeks. No preservatives means better taste and fewer hangovers, my friends, and like many locals, I ignore the heckling of foreign devils and chuck a few ice cubes in my brew as I'm chowing down on some gongbao jiding . If anyone knows where Taiwan Beer is available in Beijing, please let me know.

閉幕SHOTS

That's Beijing's funk party last year to fund a heart operation for an orphan named Tian Yue raised less money than expected due to club management letting in too many people for free. A number of BB readers stepped up and donated to the cause and I'm happy to report that Tian Yue had surgery on Boxing Day and the orphanage writes: “Tian Yue is back with us… She is doing great .” ~ As I finish the newsletter, I have received an SMS: “The row of Russian and Eastern European restaurants north of Ritan Park, including the original Elephant , has been torn down .” People, when will the killing stop? ~ As usual, if you know someone else who would like this e-newsletter, pass it on . A person just has to send me a message to get on the mailing list. ~ Finally, I wish everyone a most excellent holiday and prosperous Year of the Dog. Eat (not the dog), drink and be merry , Beijing Boyce.

• Opening shots, including Zeta Bar , wining about Beijing and the plunger search
• Belgian Beer Bliss
• Past Midnight?
• Roach , get out of my pizza!
• First Impressions: Saddle, Palms , The Pomegranate, Liqueur, Sesame and Pipe's Cafe
• 3, 2, 1: happy New Year!
• Resolutions for bar goers
• Closing shots, including Big Easy , goodbye Li Yan, and thanks to key readers.

開幕SHOTS

Ch-ch-changes : Is Neo Lounge set to reappear? The bar had a cult following before closing over a year ago and is the topic of a forthcoming documentary. Which will come first: the new bar or the movie? ~ Hilton Beijing is making over its restaurants and bars. It will add a signature Zeta Bar (a la the Sydney , Kuala Lumpur and London Hiltons). ~ Huxley , who popularized the none-too-subtle slogan Shut Up, Just Drink , is apparently readying another bar. In my crystal ball, I see… 10-kuai Qingdao … low-priced shooters … noisy dice games . ~ Has anyone else cringed at the new Cask of Amontillado -like structure behind Sun City (near Alfa)? Turning to my ball again, I see possible names… Public Execution… Abu Ghirab… Dungeons and Dragons… Hairy [sic] Potter … and a home for the city's S&M scene.

Wining about Beijing: The family of my co-worker Andrew McDonald owns Seven Springs Vineyards (Oregon), ranked among American's ten best by Food & Wine, and he will lead a tasting of five Pinot Noirs on January 20. The wines include 2001 Amity Pinot Noir, 2003 Rex Hill Pinot Noir, 2003 King Estates Pinot Noir, 2001 Ponzi Pinot Noir and the rare 2000 St. Innocent Seven Springs Pinot Noir . The event is RMB250 and limited to 18 tasters. Six spots are left. If you're interested, let me know ASAP . First come, first served. ~ The Riedel crystal wine glass empire expands. ASC Fine Wines founder and Riedel distributor Don St. Pierre writes: “We are selling Riedel in about 40 cities now, including selected Carrefour outlets.”They start at 160 kuai per. ~ I didn't list Torres Wines new address last issue because I couldn't find it on the company's website. Torres' Galia Stern diplomatically noted that it was in all of her emails to me. Point taken: Annex House, Tian He Mansion, 7A Workers' Stadium West Road, Chaoyang District (5165-5519). ~ Montrose's Ethan Perk suggested I emulate that Johnny Mercer song (“accentuate the positive, eliminate the negative”) and praise wine distributors with functioning sites, rather than complain about those without (Summergate, Torres, Palette). Here they are: Montrose, with the best site, is at www.montrosechina.com , while ASC is at www.asc-wines.com . ~ A few issues ago, I claimed that the six sparkling wines at a tasting at John Bull Pub came from Torres. In fact, only the Bellavista Franciacorta is distributed by the company. More shots: Try Polish, American, Russian, Mongolian and other vodkas on January 15 at John Bull Pub . The RMB150 fee includes a buffet with bratwurst, borsch , Russian salad and mash. Email frank_siegel@hotmail.com or call 13301-377-336 to reserve a spot. ~ If you've got the New Year's blues and need some chuckles, catch ChopSchticks on January 14 at 7:30pm at icehouse (6522-1389). The show features stand-up comedian Jim Dunn (Boston) and opener Tony Moschetto. Tickets: RMB250 at the door; RMB220 in advance (13701-210-489 / Tickets@TheComedyTour.com). ~ Pavillion is planning a whisky club. And I plan to talk ideas with them as I'd like to start a whisky and bourbon society . Is anyone up for it? ~ Re my futile search for a toilet plunger, Damon Perry suggested I try Carrefour. Thanks for the tip. I also found some with wooden handles at Jingkelong on Gongti North Road and bought one with a steel handle (49 kuai) at Ikea . Note: Ikea will move sometime this year. I'll let you know the exact address.

BELGIAN BEER BLISS

While Morel’s , The Tree and others sell Belgian beers, Beer Mania is smaller, cozier and has information about each brew, with manager Marc van Buren providing recommendations upon request. Thus, as I sipped a Maredsous Triple (10%), I flipped through Petite Fute: Guide to Belgian Beers and learned that my beer's “acidity, softness and bitterness make this clear blond with a persistent head a harmonious beer, balanced, round and full.” Superb! As for the Westmalle Triple (9.5%), I noticed the fruitiness even before reading about its “fruity and herby nose accompanied by notes of fresh hops.” Excellent! These beers are 35 kuai each during happy hour (regular price: 50 kuai). I've thrice visited Beer Mania since mentioning it in issue II, including last Saturday night with Agent Red Wolf and K-Dog , who was in town from Shanghai. The place won't win any awards for layout and decor, but is great for “shopping” for Belgian beers by perusing the glass-fronted refrigerator. K-Dog described Marc as a “perfect” manager: he isn't intrusive and appears just in time to recommend another beer. My only suggestion: erect a wall or hang draperies in front of the toilet so patrons don't get a view inside it each time the door is opened.

PAST MIDNIGHT?

When Midnight opened several months ago staffed with two of Beijing's best bartenders, George and Echo , I wrote that the place was too big and the drinks would eventually suffer. Call me Kreskin: last Friday night I had an uncharacteristically bad martini as the bartenders were too rushed to make it properly (it had those “ notes of gasoline ” so typical of other establishment's drinks). Even worse, the omnipresent cronies / relatives of the landlord / owner make the drinks when George and Echo are away. Such is the case now as a friend just sent an SMS, obviously written in a fit of a frustration: “ the place is nuthin without the drinks .” Midnight is still the best bet for quality cocktails, but given current trends, I fear the situation is more likely to get worse than better.

ROACH, GET OUT OF MY PIZZA!

Reopened in new digs, Le Petit Gourmand (LPG) is a nice alternative to The Bookworm , which at times is overcrowded (you have to wait for a seat) and noisy (the sounds of nearby construction are bearable, but fellow patrons making business calls (“ Wei!? Wei? Report yo mae yo!? “) are not). LPG has a growing book collection, solid wireless and a deck that has me anticipating spring. The latte is a good deal at 15 kuai — the same price as a regular coffee, but three times bigger. The staff is inefficient , whether its misunderstandings over orders or delivering entrees 15 minutes apart, even when the place is almost empty. The food is passable , whether it's pasta or sandwiches (35-40 kuai). My pizza was the exception. The Parmesan I shook out was accompanied by a tiny live cockroach that landed on my pizza and made the most of it (I thought I ordered vegetarian). The bug is not the biggest issue. Such things happen (flashback to high school when I worked at a beach resort restaurant and we would find bees in the soft ice cream machine.) What matters is staff reaction. At LPG, they were very apologetic and offered to replace it. They quickly re-emerged with a pizza, seemingly too quickly (perhaps they turned up the oven), and the waiter opened a new can of Parmesan before my eyes. Personally, I would have provided the pizza for free, but then again, I'm not from the “40 kuai now is worth more than losing a customer for life” school. Aside from the roach, LPG was a pleasant place to relax, chat and check email. (This story's title is a takeoff of the Shuffle Demons song, “Get out of My House, Roach” and the odds of anyone knowing that are about the same as … uh … a roach coming out of a can of Parmesan.)

FIRST IMPRESSIONS Saddle: This little Tex-Mex spot across from Apertivo is decorated in warm reds and yellows and has sturdy wooden furniture. It's a Spartan layout and seats 20, with one chair having, you guessed it, a saddle (patrons can lean back in it while alcohol is poured into their mouths. I passed, having watched Urban Cowboy one too many times). The chicken and rice burrito (35 kuai) was piping hot, though I would have loved some guacamole and sour cream. There was a bone chip in it so be careful (another patron had a similar experience). The nacho chips and salsa (RMB20) could have used a bit more salt and lime, but were a nice change from the bottled stuff. Qingdao: RMB15. Daily special, 6-8 PM: burritos, salsa and chips, and a beer for RMB50.

Palms: This bar in Palm Springs Apartments' mall is apparently being positioned as an alternative to Centro . Palms is smaller and snugger than Centro, though in both places you have to go outside for the toilet (in this case there wasn't any toilet paper). It has a friendly staff , comfy chairs and a decent, though lifeless at times, band (save for the energetic keyboardist). The beverage list is a bit sparse for a high-end bar (one Italian wine). At the time of my visit, Palms had been open only ten days and Agent Red Wolf and I talked at length with the owners and general manager about our first impressions. My biggest one was that the vodka martini (~60 kuai) was missing a key ingredient – vodka — as was its replacement. Eventually, with the general manager's help (he sipped my martini and realized, “Hey, this has no vodka”) I received a better-than-average and larger-than-normal drink. Red Wolf's Mojito was light on the rum and she found the Screwdriver below par. Let's hope Palms gets the drinks end of the business fixed ASAP.

Pomegranate: For citizens of Shunyi , this courtyard bar is a cozy retreat. It only has one beer on tap, but the burgers and quesadillas (~40 kuai) are good and apparently made by an ex- John Bull Pub chef. The ambience could use some work (someone labeled it as reminiscent of a student hangout of decades past), but Shunyi beggars cannot be choosers. Hopefully Pomegranate inspires more bars out that way. Our only problem: the driver the staff secured to get us downtown turned out to be a jerk , dropping off my friends and then refusing to drive me a further 400 meters home. This is normally not a big deal, but I was carrying six bottles of wine and several bags of groceries. (Note: I complained by email to the Pomegranate and Mike Hall — I assume he's in management — said he would do his best to make sure that driver is not used again. “As you're probably aware, the taxi drivers don't actually work for us, we just have a list of numbers of local drivers to call so we don't have much control over them: Once again, I'm sorry that your night ended on a sour note.” No worries, Mike, and thanks for the effort.)

Liqueur: Open about a year in the desolate stretch between the north end of Sanlitun Bar Street and Cappuccinos , Liqueur has a “rustic” decor that is heavy on red and includes burlap draped across the ceiling. The glossy chairs are wobbly and the bar consists of thick boards separated by bricks. The patrons seemed like regulars and were friendly and relaxed, as was the owner, Gun . The place had a strong neighborhood feel to it. Carlsberg: 20 kuai, Qingdao: 15 kuai. There's a guitar on the premises, if patrons feel like playing, and a huge plate of candy by the door, though I'm not sure why (Halloween leftovers?).

Sesame: One of three remaining holdouts at the southern end of Sanlitun South , it's your typical bar in a box : rectangular, tile floor, wooden tables, wooden bar, a few posters, a foosball machine . Qingdao: 10 kuai, Bacardi Breezer: 15 kuai. Sesame was empty, so we had a monopoly on the foosball as we listened to a CD on which every song title contained the word “America” David Bowie (“I'm Afraid of America”), Violent Femmes (“American Music”), James Brown (“Living in America”), you get the idea. Sesame is nothing special, but okay if you like foosball and cheap drinks.

Pipes Cafe: In contrast to its eye-catching and arty name cards , this place on Gongti North felt cluttered and disorderly . Unfortunately, I never fully experienced the ambience given the following dialogue with the waiter:

[Hands us a menu]

“It's 40 kuai for all-you-can-drink Great Wall wine or draft beer.”

[I look at the menu and see bottled Qingdao for 15 kuai.]

“Can I just have a bottle of Qingdao?”

“Yes.”

“太好了！”

“But it will cost 55 kuai (40 for the all-you-can-drink special and 15 for the Qingdao.)”

“That's really smart, isn't it” ?

[Yes, I got sarcastic, which doesn't usually work in these places. They take you literally.] In any case, Pipes Cafe is supposedly a hangout for the lesbian crowd and my friend speculated that the 40-kuai deal is a way of keeping out riff raff like us (hey, I love women, too!).

3, 2, 1: HAPPY NEW YEAR

New Year's Eve shenanigans started at an all-you-can-eat-and-drink Japanese restaurant before moving to Alfa , where the mood was effervescent , with flowing drinks, energetic pop music and lithesome dancers. At twelve, the staff sprayed snow foam everywhere, including into my martini, but unfortunately the Christmas was over and a free drink was not in the offering. 很高興。 Also, while it is fun to watch the staff clear the sofas and tables lickety-split so as to enlarge the dance space, it's best to avoid ramming said furniture into the patrons. Afterward, I stopped at Midnight (it only seemed natural on New Year's Eve), where people remained festive until the wee hours. Martinis, whiskey and bitters, Champagne cocktails ( they all made for a smooth entrance into 2005 (and our stomachs), thanks to the capable bartending triumvirate of Echo , George and Austin .

RESOLUTIONS FOR BAR PATRONSLast issue, I listed some resolutions for bar managers and employees and, based on my experience of the past two weeks, they don't read or don't care about my humble advice. In any case, one must not give up hope, and this time I offer some suggestions for bar goers in the New Year:

I shall not equate the intelligence of a bar owner or employee with his/her proficiency in my language and will thus refrain from voicing such things as “gin AND tonic” , “ginnnnnnnn and tonnnnnnic” or “gin and tonic” nor shall I become incensed for him/her misunderstanding my pathetic attempts at speaking his/her language.

I shall not assume that because I am in a boisterous mood , everyone else should be, and will thus refrain from hugging , giving high fives to, clinking glasses with at near-breakage speeds or inviting to be members of my luge team those patrons / strangers who are obviously uninterested.

I shall retreat to a secluded area when I expect to be on my cell phone for more than three minutes, thereby sparing fellow patrons from stories about last night's “score,” pleas to an upset spouse , or details of the soap opera about so-and-so's co-worker's boyfriend's best friend's sister breaking up with “some guy who totally is, like, soooooo lame .”

I shall not take advantage of my position as a patron to fondle the bar's owner, manager, bartenders, wait staff, cooks, cleaners, security guards or suppliers, or any of their relatives or pets that may happen to be on the premises.

I shall never reach behind the bar to grab objects, such as knives or corkscrews , nor stand there in an attempt to appear as part of the “in” clientele as I am only being a nuisance to the staff and as interesting as a coat rack to the patrons; should I go behind the bar, I will either wear a disguise or claim to be Da Shan , which would defeat the whole purpose of showing off, so instead I shall sit on my bar stool, drink my beer and relax.

閉幕SHOTS

I don't understand why Big Easy (Chaoyang Park, south gate) doesn't get more exposure. The layout, bands, bar grub and Bloody Marys are all good. I've been there a half-dozen times and always enjoyed myself. ~ I'm increasingly finding myself at Pavillion . Last Saturday night, I sank into one of those huge leather chairs and split a bottle of sherry (RMB280) with a friend. I was back the next morning for the buffet brunch ( its hardy fare with bottomless coffee and tea (how about adding juice?) for 68 kuai . ~ My friend K-Dog wonders why every bar seems to use those bland bottled olives in their martinis. Is anyone out there using high-end garnishes ? If not, why not? ~ Beijing 's service industry took a serious hit when Li Yan moved back to his hometown in Henan Province . He was a security guard at my office and was friendly, courteous and efficient. Whether helping to direct traffic, unloading parcels or loaning taxi money to office workers who had forgotten their wallets, he epitomized good service and will be missed. (Note: this is a guy who should be training the guards, not working as one.) ~ Finally, it being a new year and with the newsletter now eight issues and 20,000 words old, I extend thanks to six people who have gone above and beyond in backing my little e-newsletter project, whether it be in terms of testing the city's establishments ( Sherry Tan , Mike Wester ), giving background on the food and drink scene ( Frank Siegel , Don St. Pierre ) or providing moral support ( Ro King , Kevin Dempsey ). I really do appreciate their help and that of everyone else who has written to me. Cheers, BB.

• Opening Shots: Riverside Cafe, Le Quai, The Bookworm Torres Wines, and more
• First Impressions: American Café , Brewery Tap, Café Pause and Shin Yeh
• We Got Mail
• Parting Shots: New Year resolutions for bar managers and employees .

開幕SHOTS

Riverside Café has closed and will, it appears, become another Schindler’s . Good news for sausage and sauerkraut lovers, bad news for fans of the café and its excellent RMB20 wine glasses . (I should have stocked up. Anyone know where I can get more?) ~ Black Jack Garden (where I once coaxed a bartender into making me a Jagermeister martini. Ah, the memories) has also been uprooted. ~ The back loft in Le Quai (inside Gongti West) is a great place to spend a few hours while watching people ice fish, skate and play hockey on the river outside. Cozy couches and a good selection of drinks (RMB25-50; try the fruit cocktail), the only drawback is that sound really carries from the room below. ~ Until Chinese New Year, Icehouse will only open for events, such as the Chopschticks comedy shows (next one: January 14). The owners have hired Guy Duarte as GM. The restaurant and lounge to which Icehouse is attached are open as usual. ~ It started with Babyface a year ago and now Gongti West is becoming club central. Angel, Cargo (backed by Mix), Queen Club and the soon-to-open Coco Banana (backed by Banana) and Cutie Club are like peas in the pod there, with Vics and Mix around the corner. That hundred-meter strip could become the world's biggest market for Chivas and green tea . 好。 We must isolate such drinkers from society at large. ~ That gargantuan, half-finished and long-dormant building behind the Sanlitun beer mug is now host to a flurry of construction, the attendant noise intruding upon The Bookworm . There could be a double whammy on book and wireless lovers when drilling starts on the huge nearby Sanlitun South project. The Bookworm has a growing collection of new books and magazines for sale, a jewelry corner by Things of The Jing and 2006 seminars planned with Kent Kedl (The China Ready Company), Tim Clissold (Mr. China) and “Maggot Detective” Mark Benecke (his slide shows are not for the weak of stomach), among others. ~ Jenny Lou’s continues to expand its empire with a takeover of Eight over Eight ’s space (Sanlitun North). (Note: I went there and four other stores in a vain search for a plunger – the staff at each spot were amused as I used body language to demonstrate unblocking a toilet. I tell you, there's nothing worse than having a dozen full-bladdered house guests waiting for the maintenance guy to come and fix the loo.) ~ Thanks to BB readers Ro King , Agent Hidden Dragon and Agent Gold Monkey for donating money to help fund a heart operation for a two-month-old orphan named Tian Yue. (See last issue for the Scrooge-like details as to why an extra drive for cash was needed.) GE also came through with major support. Tian Yue had surgery on Boxing Day and so far, so good. ~ Thanks also to my boss, who seemed to be the only laoban in Beijing who didn't require the staff to wear Christmas hats – as was required by workers at Shin Yeh, Le Quai, Starbuck's, ad infinitum – the past few weeks. (I simply don't look good in red with white fringe.) ~ Torres Wine has moved its office to near Green T. House (I couldn't find the actual address since, like that of Summergate Wines, the Torres website is not working. C'mon guys, it's almost 2006!). Torres will have a free tasting every Friday, 4-6 PM and until the end of December (short notice!) offers “ buy two, get one free ” on Baron Philippe de Rothschild Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon (RMB67), Signos Shiraz (RMB55) and Prosecco Angela Viano (RMB 85). ~ I went to Pinnacle Plaza with friends to buy a Christmas tree and popped into Palette Wines (good deal on Stickleback: RMB85 per bottle) and then into Jenny Lou’s where, lo and behold, they had over 500 different wines and a wine tasting to boot (it consisted of a “blind tasting” where one guessed if the wine was a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Okay, I guessed right. Now what? Do I win something? No? I don't get the concept ). ~ Finally, I was busy apartment hunting and moving the past two weeks, so this issue is heavy on First Impressions and light on in-depth pieces. I'll have more next time around.

AMERICAN CAFE

Light and airy, with pine furniture and a tile floor, the American Café is rumored to have Beijing's best burgers. It's decorated with posters and prints with, um, eclectic themes. One side has Toy Story and the Muppets, the back has the all-too-predictable James Dean, Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley combo, while the front left has a black and white photo of Jackie Robinson stealing home during the 1955 World Series (nice!), among others. Anyway, the Boston burger (RMB40) came with fried mushrooms, cheese and bacon, plus tomato, onion, pickle and lettuce on a sesame bun. It was tasty, though the patty could have been firmer, and came with crispy fries seasoned with herbs. Said a dinner mate: “The Boston burger was quite satisfying in terms of size and flavor, even though (a) it appeared to have nothing to do with my hometown of Boston, and (b) had a little too much of that charcoal-grilled taste. That could be because I asked for it well done. Try it at 70 percent done (qi fen shou).” All in all, we were a satisfied crew and recommend giving the place a try.

BREWERY TAP

Who would have thunk that a pub in an apartment complex (Blue Castle) could be so snug? This long and narrow place features two floors, with the upper level accessible by two staircases, and plenty of cubby holes for small groups of friends. There is a nice side room, though some among us found the wallpaper (yes, some places have moved beyond paint and cinder blocks) a bit psychedelic. “The bathroom shouldn't be upstairs,” said one in our group. “The orange juice is good,” said another. “The upper level is faintly reminiscent of the Big Easy,” said a third. The staff could afford to be a bit more attentive (empty glasses over here!), though the French bartender is friendly. Wobbly chairs at the bar. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. Free hot peanuts. If I lived nearby, Brewery Tap might become a favorite haunt.

CAFE PAUSE

Somewhere in Dashanzi, Café Pause has minimalist design in velvety auburn and moss green, with a stainless steel bar and dark chairs and tables (why does the décor remind me of Leiderhosen – perhaps it comes from the subconscious of the Austrian and German owner?). Creative and delicious tapas, including pork and spinach dumplings drizzled with red pesto sauce – my vote for snack of the year. A focus on German and Austrian wines, though they have others. The best gluvine (mulled wine) I've had in Beijing (a family recipe of Stefan Fleischer, a co-owner). Friendly and competent staff, a fun and diverse clientele, less-than-comfy chairs. The small and open layout works against a sense of intimacy and means that every entrance and exit lets in a gust of cold air, which can be a relief if a lot of people are smoking. Café Pause: it's out in Dashanzi, but isn'ta good dumpling worth the trek?

SHIN YEH

MyTaiwanese friend Sherry, among the biggest food lovers around and a Taipei native to boot, raved about this place, so I dragged her along as a consultant. We started off with tasty stewed bamboo and pork with soy sauce, garlic and green onion, followed by sweet and sour breaded fish fillets (excellent: the best dish of the night). Rolling up our sleeves, we dug into steamed pork with salty egg (it's potent, so best to have it with rice), an oyster pancake (the most recognizable Taiwanese dish, though the large globules of starch make it quite gluey), a wooden bucket of fried rice with peas, egg, onion and pork (enough to serve three to four) and three-cup mushrooms, which were pungent with heaps of basil and spicy with a generous helping of red peppers (I initially found the mushrooms too chewy, but they softened up and were quite addictive, though they brought no hallucinations). Last but not least were the deep-fried shrimp and taro rolls in flaky pastry. “These are very famous in southern Taiwan, though you rarely find them in the north,” said Sherry. They were a bit sweet for my liking and served as dessert, while she had a couple of “ma ji,” a Hakka treat that consists of warm and soft sticky rice coated in peanut powder (these usually come free back home, said Sherry. Shin Yeh charges RMB1 per piece). In addition to the food being excellent, the servers were spot on. As we finished one dish, another would appear, and we only had three items on the table at the end, even more impressive given that the place was busy. Shin Yeh is large, with a dining area split down the middle and private rooms, though it is drafty near the doors. The bathrooms are spotless and well-designed. Absolutely stuffed, and having finished a bottle of Qingdao (they don't have Taiwan beer, among Asia's best), we faced a very reasonable bill of RMB213. Good food, good service, good value.

Note: Shin Yeh does not serve stinky tofu – chodofu – nor does another nearby Taiwanese restaurant, Bellagio, despite this odorous food being among the Taiwan 's most ubiquitous – well, at least in olfactory terms – and famous. Is this because the smell bothers customers? In any case, it's a pity because a proper chodofu fits in with kimchi, sauerkraut and blue cheese in the family of smelly but tasty foods.

WE GOT MAIL

In response to last issue's story on 5:19 bar, the establishment's owner writes:

“Boyce, thanks for the mention in your last yet-to-be-named newsletter. I hadn't thought of the 80s rec room analogy, but I like it. My only comment is that we have more wines than just the four Moldovan wines. Other than that, two of the draughts are now installed (Yanjing and Carlsberg) and we move the sofas when darts are played [I was the first to break the “dart board above the sofa” story. Dow Jones and WSJ, eat your hearts out.]” – DM

Note: Based on the author's friendliness, I'm guessing he would be willing to stand by during dart games and yell things such as “one hundred and forrrrrrty!”, like they do on TV.

PARTING SHOTS

Resolutions for Beijing bar managers and employees (just trying to be helpful):

I shall not ask customers to pay for my mistakes, such as the difference between the RMB60 I have programmed into the cash register for a pint of Guinness and the RMB50 I've errantly printed on the menu; I shall accept the one-time loss of revenue rather than the permanent loss of the customer.

I shall not remove, nor lay hand upon, any glass containing more than a half-mouthful of liquid unless the patron whose glass it is has exited the premises or indicated that it be taken away; nor will I hover above said patron waiting for him/her to finish that final mouthful; if I do so because of a shortage of glasses, I will take measures to have more purchased.

I will not pick my nose or ears, scratch my armpits or nether regions, or engage in any other unseemly conduct before handling food; nor will I regurgitate phlegm and mull it in my mouth in front of customers.

I will not practice my Chinese / English / other language with customers who do not wish to do so (and will learn to recognize when they are doing so out of politeness), bore them with lengthy stories about a particular alcohol's history, or make asides on what are obviously their private conversations.

[Specifically for managers] I will not chastise, denigrate or mock my employees in front of patrons as it makes me look unprofessional and my customers feel uncomfortable; I will defend those same employees from unreasonable and obnoxious patrons.

In coming issues: New Year resolutions for drinkers; The Pomegranate; ranking Beijing's free English-language magazines; CD Jazz Café; the promise of Summergate Wines; the 400-kuai move; Dongbei dumplings; and more. Happy New Year and cheers everyone! Eat, drink and be merry – Beijing Boyce.

IN THIS ISSUE

• Opening Shots
• Be a Funky Santa
• First Impressions: Nashville ; 5:19
• Twinkle, Twinkle Sparkling Wine
• Zing: The Sequel
• Maligayang Pasko!
• Kat and John Come to Town
• We Got Mail
• Final Sips.

開幕SHOTS

Check out the Sunday buffet breakfast at The Pavillion: sausages, ham, baked beans, bread, fried potatoes, baked tomatoes, fruit and cereal; omelets made on the spot; coffee and tea (RMB68). It's simple, hearty fare to enjoy while gazing upon the woods out back. Also, kudos to The Pavilion for installing a brass foot rail and coat hooks beneath the bar. ~ John Bull Pub now has Strongbow draft cider (RMB49 / pint) and Shanghai beer (RMB25 / pint) on tap. ~ Icehouse has “let go” its general manager. I doubt you can blame the problems there on one guy. Prime example: Icehouse is a blues bar, but first hired an Australian rock band and then Matt Roberts' local jazz outfit. Who (and this goes beyond – and specifically above – the ex-GM) with any knowledge of music or Beijing nightlife doesn't know that a) rock is not blues, b) Roberts specializes in jazz, and c) jazz is also not blues? Icehouse has done right by attracting events by Beijing Cheese Society and Chopschticks, and seems to have good marketers, since YPHH will hold an event there next week and describes the place as having “live entertainment from international [sic] acclaimed artist [sic]” (really? Who would those artists be?). Rumor has it that Icehouse will shut down for a month. If so, let's see what they come up with next. ~ Stefan Fleisher (Palette Wines big wig) and Johannes Neubacher (Timeout magazine bigwig) have opened Café Pause in Dashanzi, with a focus on Mediterranean cuisine, Spanish tapes, German, Austrian and other wines, and some fusion dishes. “A good example is our trademark Jiaozi, a cooking concept that you not only find in China and Italy, but also in Russia, Germany and a number of other places,” says Stefan. ~ Midnight bar is off to a strong start, but here's a thought: what are the odds the owners will decide they can do it all by themselves and force out the dynamic bartending duo of George and Echo, the ex- First Café bartenders who help bring in the business? (Yes, we've heard rumors.) By the way, the hot buttered rum at Midnight is a nice warmer-upper.

BE A FUNKY SANTA

Here's a story in the spirit of A Christmas Carol: that's Beijing held its annual charity funk party last Saturday to fund heart surgery for an orphan named Dang Tianyue in Ping An. Partygoers were having a funktastic time, oblivious to a Scrooge-like subplot. The club decided, at the last minute, to make the RMB100 entrance fee voluntary so that regulars and others could get in free. The funk party raised RMB20000 in years past, but this time – despite a large turnout – only made a disappointing RMB9000. I'm not going to bombard readers with pleas for charities, but this case is unique given the time of year and the organizers' good intentions. BB reader Ro King has donated RMB1600 to the cause and another reader, Agent Gold Monkey, has given RMB700. Anyone else interested in helping should contact the GM of that's Beijing (who was exposed in the last issue for ordering a Grand Marnier and soda – perhaps this is his punishment from the Gods). His email address is michaelwester@thatsbj.com and he promises a that's Beijing winter hat (known as a toque in Canada) and a 2006 calendar to anyone donating RMB250 or more. No pressure people, since many out there already have their favorite charities. But if you have been wondering lately, “ Gee, how can I help an orphan AND get a toque? ” this is your chance. For more info, check

FIRST IMPRESSIONS (AND FAIR REVIEWS)

A Beijing-based chef sent me a nice email because of “the fact that you went to the Pavillion THREE TIMES BEFORE REVIEWING IT.” (I guess triple visits aren't the norm for most writers.) It was a nice compliment although to be honest it helps that this newsletter is a hobby, I don't have to cater to advertisers and, frankly, I like the research. That being said, I can't always guarantee three visits. So, in cases where I pop in once to check out a new spot, I've created a “first impressions” section that includes a string of random observations on a given establishment. Here are two places I recently visited with Agent Red Socks (his comments in quotes):

Nashville (reincarnated after being demolished earlier this year on Sanlitun South Road). The second floor: Lots of wood and leather, with comfy chairs by the windows… “The mixture of John Cougar Mellancamp from the first floor and smooth jazz on the second is 'interesting'”… decent pizza (RMB40, 8-inch), though the waiter stood a meter away, watched us eat and tried to remove the plates while we were holding the last slice… wall art includes Tibetan pictures, dart trophies and a Shania Twain poster… Taiwan folk music hero Luo Dayou was sitting nearby… pints of Qingdao (RMB25)… the warm colors were a nice contrast to the cold and blustery weather. Main floor: all the rough-hewn, rustic flavor of the old Nashville, and that's a plus… even with 15 people on hand, a great vibe while the singer performed… “Luo Dayou is one of the most famous musicians from Taiwan. I can't believe we're sitting here and watching him playing the drums”… fans of the old Nashville are going to love this place.

5:19. Four kinds of wine from Moldova (!) (RMB40 / glass)… feels like a 1980s recreation room (where's the Atari and Pong ?)… a bit chilly given the stone block floor… still getting in gear, with the beer taps, maple syrup (for cocktails) and name cards expected soon… the dart board is right above the sofa (wear a helmet)… Four kinds of Moldova wine (!) (Sorry, had to repeat that again)… happy hour from 5:19 to 8 (PM)… bingo nights planned… owner is a former partner in the now-demolished Artifacts.

TWINKLE, TWINKLE SPARKLING WINES

A dozen of us gathered in Sequoia Café 's newly refurbished front room on December 10 to taste five sparkling wines from Torres. Company General Manager Alberto Fernandez was on hand to help guides us through: 1) Nederburg Brut from South Africa (85% Chenin Blanc, 11% Chardonnay, 4% Colombar; light; fruity nose); 2) Freixenet Negro Brut (drier and, according to the notes provided, with lemon, licorice, pear and resin aromas and canned fruit and dried flower flavors); 3) Bisol Brut Crede from Italy (“scents of wildflowers”; I found this one a bit filling); 4) Bellavista Franciacorta, also from Italy (aged 36 months in the bottle, a wine to really swirl about in your mouth; “medium bodied, creamy in texture, and very long on the palate, with aromas / flavors reminiscent of baked bread, vanilla, toast, plum and lemon”); and 5) Christian Busin from France (20% Chardonnay, 80% Pinot Noir; “The attack on the palate is clean, balanced, fat and fresh”). Fernandez thoughtfully brought out another bottle: 6) a Prosecco from Italy that apparently, smells of burned apples. Penny, sitting beside me, said she liked number five for its taste, but number six overall, because of its nose. “That's an inviting wine,” she said. Sequoia Café owner Frank Siegel decided to put it to a vote: #2 came out on top (5.5 votes), followed by #5 (4 votes) and #4 (1.5 votes), with Penny giving a “special vote” to #6. Of the three of Frank's wine tastings I've attended, this was the bubbliest yet. (Event fee: RMB150.)

ZING: THE SEQUEL

When I wrote in an earlier newsletter about service at Zing at Doodoo's, someone told me to give the new management another chance. So I did, last Sunday, accompanied by the ever-dynamic Agent Red Wolf (RW). Let's start with positives: The place has good hardware, with plenty of comfy seating (though the sofas are a bit low), two bars, a central area with tables and high chairs, and a nifty little dance club downstairs. (The trick will be to attract enough people upstairs to make the place lively and to maintain the dance floor between empty and overcrowded, not easy with such a limited space.) But Zing has some definite potential.

As for the food, it was okay, with the steak and cheese on baguette (RMB55) beating out the salami pizza (RMB 58), which had a leaden crust. And Agent Red Wolf liked the music. There was some negligence, such as the waiters forgetting ketchup and new plates, the lack of toilet paper in the WC, and so on, even though there were five employees and only two patrons (us). We were also charged the regular prices for drinks instead of happy hour ones. An honest mistake, perhaps, but the waiter asked us to pay full fare anyway because “the bill is already printed.” (A second waiter later explained that the guy was new, but c'mon.) Finally, the table menu advertises Boys Night Out, Girls Night Out, Ladies Night, All About Tapas, and Brunch Buffet, but the staff says these events are no longer held. Even so, although Zing has some glitches to work out, this trip was definitely better than the last and it seems like a good place for a small party (though give the place some advance warning).

MALIGAYANG PASKO!

Beijing's Filipino community – and it really does define “community” – was out in full force last Sunday for the annual Christmas party in the Philippines Embassy. The only people that are more fun than Filipinos are… are… are… wait, I can't think of anyone else. Filipino bands from five-star hotels, the Hard Rock Café and Blue Fox had the place hopping, and with plenty of tasty food, raffles prizes and games, it was an enjoyable afternoon. There was one game, based on musical chairs, where a group of eight women danced around a group of seven men and, when the music stopped, each tried to grab a man's belt, with the one left beltless being eliminated from the game. Then it went down to seven women and six men, and so on. Highly entertaining. This is my second time to the party – all thanks to my Filipina pal Cherry – and I highly recommend finding someone to tag along with next year.

(Philippines footnote: My last trip to the islands was in 1999. I landed with an American friend in Manila at midnight and within minutes a Filipina-American we just met invited us to her house in Roxas, Panay Island, to visit with her family. We accepted the offer and spent two days hanging out with about 70 of her nieces and nephews – eating, drinking, eating, visiting markets, eating and, of course, singing. That's hospitality.)

KAT AND JOHN COME TO TOWN

My old Taiwan buddies John Isacs and Kat Tao were in town last week. John is a “grape American hero” in Taipei as he writes bilingual books about wine (the newest covers 250 brands), teaches wine lessons, organizes wine dinners for corporate bigwigs and does all kinds of wine promotion via PDAs and the Internet (check www.enjoygourmet.com ). Kat handles operations and cranks out a slick quarterly magazine about Taipei's gourmet scene.

After a nice hot pot and some lamb kebabs on Ghost Street, we headed to Pavillion for two fine bottle of wine: a Garvey Amont Tio Guillermo sherry (picked by John, who was recently certified in Spain as an expert on this drink) followed by a Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel 2003 (ASC Big Wig Campbell Thompson informed me by email that this wine, produced by a family outfit in Sonoma, is on Wine Spectator's Top 100 wines for 2005). Whiling away a few hours in the Pavillion's big leather chairs is a comfy way to enjoy a chilly winter evening, especially as the wine is reasonably priced (even bigger ASC Big Wig Don St. Pierre said the company has sold more wine at The Pavillion in one month than it did at Frank's Place in two years). Expect to here more from John and Kat, who are looking to expand their wine info empire into the Middle Kingdom.

WE GOT MAIL

Re My statement last issue that drinkers who mix Chivas with green tea should be executed.

Why should you have any problem with those philistines who drink mass-market blended whisky? Let them do what they want with it – you can make it any more bland or innocuous by mixing it with whatever Chinese ingredients you have lying around. That leaves the nice single malts to us! – KR

A good point, but what if those people are on a slippery slope, at the bottom of which they start mixing those nice single malts with green tea? Not a pretty situation and one that is bound to increase prices. No, best to nip this in the bud, perhaps by death by poisoning. Then again, come to think of it, maybe that's exactly what Chivas and green tea does to people.

FINAL SIPS

Summergate Fine Wines & Spirits has moved to Han Wei Plaza (17F, 7 Guanghua Road / 6562-1800). Unfortunately, they still – and this is beyond me – have no website. ~ The Pavillion is offering patrons a chance to be a bartender for a day. Pick up the application forms at the bar. ~ I generally get good service at Centro at night; not so during the afternoons. Recently, after receiving no attention from the staff, I left my cozy chair twice and went to the bar to order my drinks and then get my bill. Plus, is there some kind of staff no-smiling rule during the afternoon? Customers paying RMB50 or more for a coffee deserve better. ~ ASC has three new mixed-case promotions. Each 13-bottle set, ranging from RMB1200 to RMB2400, includes Laurent-Perrier Champagne (if you haven't tried it, here's you chance) at 32% to 40% off list prices. ASC is also offering 30% off select sets of four Vinum series Riedel glasses, including Bordeaux (RMB670), Chianti Classico (RMB599) and Cuvee Prestige (RMB599). (Though I wish they wouldn't always use that same Robert Parker quote about Riedel crystal. Mix it up a bit, guys!) ~ I met the Aussino wine company people at a party a few weeks back and they are planning some Beijing events in the New Year. I'll keep you informed. ~ Journalist, China specialist and logician (how does he make so much sense after so many beers!?) Ralph Jennings has a crafty little blog at www.livejournal.com/users/lalaoshi ~ Plans for my rap band Bling Dynasty are coming along nicely. We've already got several songs in the works: Yo! Mae Yo!, Hot Mama Huhu and Mi Bad, Yu Bad, Mai Bad. I'll keep you updated on any concert dates. ~ Last, but not least, best wishes to everyone during the holidays. Eat, drink and be merry people. 乾杯！ JB.

In issue V:

• Grande Move for Le Petit Gourmand
• Dirty Deeds (Qingdao Cheap)
• Maggie's: See and Don't Be Seen
• Chillin' at Pavillion
• We Got Mail
• Final Sips
• Plus: A Boy's Story (in six parts).

Next issue: Bling Dynasty: My New Rap Band.

As always, if you like the newsletter, please let others know about the website. BB.

Grande Move for Le Petit Gourmand

First The Bookworm relocated and became a runaway success with its 14000-plus books, high ceilings, excellent seminars and tasty eats. Now Le Petit Gourmand (LPG), once home of The Bookworm and recent victim of Sanlitun's chai campaign, has new digs.

LPG is in Tongli Studio, below Bar Blu, and is a cozy spot to enjoy a coffee, flip through books and surf the net. While Bookworm has a university library feel (with beer), LPG is more café/restaurant. Said one friend: “It's cozy and nookie [whatever that means].”

LPG offers bigger mugs of coffee (same price: RMB15) and a more extensive menu (though the food is so-so). It is also more peaceful, primarily because it is emptier or, to put it diplomatically, “sparsely populated.” I spent four hours with friends there last Sunday and we all gave it thumbs up, although the service was spotty. More good news: LPG has an excellent deck that, come spring, will be ideal for getting comfy with a paperback and a hot cup of java.

A Boy's Story I: It started off as a gaggle of consonants and vowels flying to and fro along a telephone wire. “C'mon out for a drink, Mikey boy!” After a dozen such gaggles, Mikey – also known by his rapper name, M-West– arrived in a sweater tailor-made for a peacock's wardrobe. It was a portentous sign .

Dirty Deeds (Qingdao Cheap)

I caught the one-set AC/DC tribute show by the aptly named Dirty Deeds band, November 23 at Yugong Yishan. The lead singer howled through a dozen songs, including some classics, which he naturally derided since you're not cool unless you know the arcane stuff. The songs I recall: Sin City, Let Me Put My Love into You, Big Balls, High Voltage, Hells Bells, Dirty Deeds Done Dirt Cheap, Highway to Hell, Girls Got Rhythm, and TNT Have a Drink on Me was a trip down memory lane (specifically to a few years back when I dressed up and played a cardboard guitar to that song in front of 200 Korean female university students. Enough said).

The singer encouraged the crowd to drink, smoke and use vile language. Many complied, so it was kind of like hanging out with 14-year-olds who have a few bottles of beer, a pack of cigarettes and just discovered the F-word. People bobbed their heads during the set, but only got dancing during the last song. No worries: the band came out for a two-song and a one-song encore, taking the singer's vocal chords to the edge of their raspy limits. Unfortunately, it was Dirty Deeds' last show of 2005. Tickets: RMB30. Qingdao: RMB10.

A Boy's Story II: Given his colorful attire, what perchance do you think M-West ordered? A Blue Hawaii? A strawberry-mango Daiquiri? Perhaps he went so far as to have a Doggie's Breakfast? My friends, he was far beyond that; he was on a trip without boundaries; he was, in essence, thinking outside the bottle.

Maggie's: See and Don't Be Seen

Agent Red Wolf and I stopped into the new Maggie's last Saturday. The Maggie's of old was popularly known as a place for male members of the species to engage with what we'll call female Mongolian ambassadors, but also had an excellent layout and DJ, decent food (including the best hotdogs in town), spotless bathrooms and unparalleled people watching opportunities. The new one, just across from Zing by Doodoo's and on the fringe of Ritan Park, offers much of this – including the hotdog cart out front – although the narrow layout and slicker décor has less charm.

Once inside, and with a hotdog (figuratively) under her belt, Red Wolf became annoyed at her inability to procure a drink. Strangely, I managed to get one in about 4.2 seconds. We parked near the dance floor to watch men who were apparently unaware of the nature of the place. The guy wearing a cowboy hat and doing the “you stole my heart” dance, complete with hand motions, was the best. I also liked the guy dancing alone – how that happens when women outnumber men two to one, I do not know. In any case, we had to leave after 20 minutes before the trickle of bids for Red Wolf's carnal treasure turned into a flood. Qingdao: RMB20; hotdogs: RMB20.

A Boy's Story III: Ever experimental (with an emphasis on mental), our young imbiber tossed aside all tradition, all decorum, all signs from a queasy stomach prepared to pounce on any content even slightly offensive. He grinned his grin, flicked his eyelashes at the bartender, and uttered words that shall forever be remembered in Beijing bar history: “Grand Marnier and soda, please.” I repeat (in bold): Grand Marnier and soda.

Chillin' at Pavillion

When Frank's Place (between The Den and City Hotel) closed a while back, its two partners went separate ways. One opened the Pavillion two weeks ago while the other is completing a 1400 square meter monster of a bar, due open in January, near Lido Hotel. Last issue, I included random observations about The Pavillion's opening night. I've since returned thrice, including trips with Agent Red Wolf and Agent Hidden Dragon, and can provide a fuller report.

The Pavillion has done an excellent job with layout and décor. It has large and comfy leather chairs, a faux fireplace, two stand-up bars, various cubby holes, a glass-walled wine room and a forest out back (spend a few moments looking at it and feel your blood pressure drop). It's a bit too spic and span, but character will come in time. The staff is friendly, the service is solid, and one hopes the employees can walk the fine line between friendliness and obtrusiveness, a little known skill in this town.

In any case, Agent Hidden Dragon liked the Champagne (Laurent Perrier; RMB78 per glass) and the décor, but thought the music was “too common.” Agent Red Wolf also liked the décor (“it's like a five-star hotel lounge”) and the spring rolls (excellent presentation, though pricey at RMB45), although she didn't find the Americano cocktail strong enough and thought the martini sub-par (I gave it a sip and she was right). She also thought the music “too old” and “not sexy enough.” Let's face it, RW is a hard agent to please, but she did have a point: it was odd to be reclining in luxury in the early eve and listening to ABBA's “Dancing Queen” and Prince's “1999.”

This mismatch is reflected elsewhere in the Pavillion and suggests the place is still finding down its identity. Let's take a couple that arrives, sits by the fireplace and orders a nice bottle of wine. How happy will they be when, 30 minutes later, the music cuts out and the TVs come on, high volume, with the pre-game analysis for a rugby game? What is the Pavillion? A sports bar? A wine bar? A restaurant? A cigar lounge? A dance club (there was live band on opening night)? All of the above?

The other issue is clientele: Based on my visits, the target market appears to be over-35 expatriates with decent salaries. I'm guessing the new bar in Lido, not to mention other establishments, are targeting the same crowd. Given the finite number of moneyed foreigners, will there be enough to go around or will The Pavillion have to seek patrons elsewhere? In any case, it is a welcome addition to Beijing's bar scene and definitely worth a look. It's just across the street from Babyface, about 10 meters to the south.

Two final notes: 1) Last issue I griped that the The Pavillion lacked a foot rail. The proprietor, Russell, said they didn't like the rail they ordered and will get another one. Fair enough. 2) The Pavillion plans to have barbecues out back once the weather warms up and this should be an excellent place to sit back with some food and drinks.

A Boy's Story IV: I repeat, Grand Marnier and soda.

We got mail: From the nimble fingers of more than a half-dozen readers comes the following query.

Who else reads this newsletter? As of today, there are just over 200 people on the mailing list. This includes people who own, manage or work in bars, restaurants and food companies (9%), hotels and clubs (7%), and wine companies (7%). About 12% of readers are in the media and another 3% run groups such as the Beijing Cheese Society. The remaining 62% are mainly people who love to eat and drink, and include everyone from co-workers and business acquaintances to my friends (including my First Café buddies) and the people they've referred. I think it's a nice mix of people who are involved in the food and beverage industry and those who patronize it.

A Boy's Story V: M-West sipped his drink. His wee eyes became beady, a drop of sweat slid down his goiter and hung there seemingly forever, his blood sugar rose to a threatening near-diabetic level, his masculinity ebbed like the soul of a monk turned lady bar tout. For he ordered the drink that should not be named and whose name hath not been uttered by any of our planet's six million citizens: Grand Marnier and soda.

Final Sips

I generally oppose capital punishment, but make a few exceptions. People who habitually enter elevators before letting those inside get out and taxi drivers who haven't brushed their teeth for more than six months are two of them. I'm adding another group: those who mix 12-year-old Chivas Regal with green tea. Yes, I'm willing to pull the switch on you guys. ~ Montrose has a half-price sale on select wines in its Kerry Centre store, until December 3. ~ This just in: HBO Asia recently sent out a memo informing staff to play at least three Indiana Jones movies per day. Well, at least it seems that way. ~ Coming next issue, reports on a Bordeaux wine tasting, a Yunan restaurant, and a rap band I'm creating called Bling Dynasty. 的歡呼聲。

A Boy's Story VI: It ends not with a bang, but a whisper: Grand Marnier and soda.

Welcome to issue four. This one features:

• Pavilion : Random thoughts on Beijing's newest bar
• Live from New York: The Cheese Vixen
• Clash of the cabs: Phelps vs. Shafer
• Tying one on at Taillan winery
• Suzy Wong: Serving a niche market
• The steady slide of Sanlitun
• Bubbling over at the Peninsula
• The Battle of Sanlitun III
• Final sips

As always, comments are most welcome.

Pavilion – Random thoughts on Beijing's newest bar

The Pavilion raucously opened last night and since I'm rushing to send out this newsletter I'll just string together a few thoughts about this place on its first night: well-lit Taco Bell-style exterior, big comfy leather seats , Guinness on tap, no foot rail at the bar (I repeat, NO FOOT RAIL AT THE BAR), lovely glass-walled wine room, Bloody Mary: RMB55, music ranging from piped in Elvis Costello, Crowded House, Queen and the Cheers theme to a band playing ABBA, Donna Summer, Tina Turner and Joan Jett (yes, Joan Jett . Excellent), lots of older white guys and younger Chinese women, lots of flat panel (but no obtrusive) TVs, a bathroom stall door that's going to end up whacking patrons in the ass at the urinals, friendly and competent staff, nice view of the woods out back, lots of great nooks and crannies in which to hang out, reminds me of a cross between the old Maggies , Aria and W Sports and Music Bar and Restaurant, if you can get your mind around that. I no longer can so I'll end it there. Check it out – right across from Babyface – and let me know what you think.

Live from New York: The Cheese Vixen Sharon Ruwart , co-founder (with Perri Dong ) of the Beijing Cheese Society and popularly known about town as The Cheese Vixen, brought a full load of fromage from New York to the latest BCS event, November 14 at Icehouse . While in the Big Apple, Sharon visited Artisanal which, she writes, “[is] not only a wonderful cheese-focused restaurant… but also boasts the only cheese-maturing 'cave' in the United States.” Sharon picked up five cheeses for our tasting pleasure. She also gave us a quiz, in which we learned, among other things, that a woman in Wisconsin wore a “ cheese bra ” to a sporting match. (“I bet it was made from Swiss cheese,” quipped the woman beside me) In any case, here are the cheeses, in tasting order, with excerpts from her handout and some notes of my own.

Azaitao , Farmstead, Portugal: “Coagulated with thistle rennet… the interior should be smooth and almost runny at room temperature… Raw milk, aged 90 days.” Yep, it was smooth and almost runny. Being a people person, I asked my table mates – Lisa , Yuntao , Mike and Toni – to rank each cheese from a low of 1 to a high of 10. (We were like a little cheese society within a Big Cheese Society.) We gave the Azaitao a 6.75.

Bouc Emissaire , Chaput Dairy, Quebec: “You're got to love a cheese called 'the scapegoat'… creamy, buttery… Raw milk, aged 60 days.” “Smells like ammonia,” said Mike, and I had to agree. Plus, I thought this one was more chalky than buttery. We gave it a 7.1. The Bouc-E was great with the Chardonnay (see the wine list below), but gross with the Merlot-Cabernet.

Constant Bliss , Jasper Hill Farms, Vermont: “[Made from] uncooled evening milk… The cheese ripens from the outside in, going from a bone-white to an ivory color as the cheese ripens and softens. The cheese is named after a Vermont settler killed by local natives in 1718 when guarding a local military road. Raw milk, aged 60 days.” All I can say is that Bliss got a bum deal with this tribute: salty attack, gluey finish, 5.75.

Gruyere , Farmstead, Switzerland: “Hand-selected by a Swiss farmer named Rolf (cue Sound of Music)… firm but supple texture [the cheese, not Rolf] and complex taste.” Sharon got tricky, putting this side-by-side with a Gruyere from Jenny Lou’s . We hemmed and hawed about which tasted best, which shows how much we know. And somehow our scoring system fell apart, but it didn't matter because the king cheese was up next. Ladies and gentleman, presenting:

Shropshire Blue , Colston Bassett Dairy, England: “We picked this because a cheese plate should always have a blue, and because with its deep orange color it's gorgeous… It's a modern cheese, invented in the 1980s [the decade that gave us Duran Duran , the Breakfast Club and the BBO – “ bottom bottle opener ” – which was, as should be evident, a groove in the glass of the bottle's bottom that could be used to open your next brew. Pure genius! Pure 80s! But I digress]… meaty and tangy. Pasteurized cow's milk. Aged 90 days.” This crumbly cheese was, as Sharon put it, “gorgeous.” And according to my notes, “It started off with a tangy cheddar taste that quickly morphed into a blast of dirty diaper-stoked stinkitude .” I had three helpings. Score: 9.5.

The three wines for the night came from ASC, with the able Karen Nelson on hand and the Icehouse staff keeping the vino flowing. The wines were: Santa Rita Reserva Chardonnay (Chile) 2004 (128RMB), Columbia Crest Two Vines Merlot-Cabernet (Washington State) 2001 (151RMB) and Taylor's Special Ruby Port (Portugal) (192RMB). Special thanks were given to Jackie Connar for helping with admin and to Susie Jakes and Jeff Prescott for bringing the bread. Sharon is on the lookout for “mules” to hand carry cheese into China, so if you're interested, send an email to sruwart@gmail.com . (There, I wrote that whole story without a single “who cut the cheese” or “who moved my cheese” crack.)

Clash of the Cabs: Shafer vs. Phelps It was drink, eat, drink, eat, drink eat, etc. and be merry at the Shafer and Joseph Phelps wine dinner, held by ASC Fine Wines at Aria on November 10. I know little about wine, other than being able to visually discern between red, white and rose, but here's my two renminbi.

We started with Bollinger Special Cuvee Champagne, followed by Phelps' Los Carneros Chardonnay 2002, which Doug Shafer , president of the winery and in attendance, called “big, fat and rich” (which isn't an uncommon way to describe wine: try plugging those words in to Yahoo.) This was followed by a Shafer Merlot 2002, which Doug described as “yummy” and a “pretty rich full wine that reflects the weather [where the grapes were grown].” This did have a nice nose and with two solid wines and some Champers under out belts, we were ready to trek into the sacred land of California's top “ cabs ,” as some like to call Cabernet Sauvignons.

We next tasted, side by side, Phelps Insignia Napa Valley 1997 and 2001. In my notes I scribbled “vigorous, solid, full-bodied – Halle Berry in a tasteful black cocktail dress” and “this is a killer – Campbell Thompson .” Campbell works at ASC and was sitting beside me, thought I can't guarantee that he actually said those words. (By the way, does he not have a name that deserves a royal title, such as Sir Campbell Thompson or The Right Honorable Campbell Thompson or Campbell Thompson, Earl of ASC? I'm telling you, there's nobility just waiting to happen there.)

But if Campbell didn't say it; I will: This wine is a killer. It was beautiful, with a nose that made you want to squeeze your head into the glass. It made the 2001 which came after it and which in other circumstances would probably have been the star seem like a slightly unready debutante (could I sound any more pompous?). Next up and, again, side by side were the Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 and 2001. These wines, highly regarded by experts, seemed to be a bit of a letdown after the Phelps Insignia. An attendee astutely asked, “Were the Shafer wines disadvantaged being served with the steak course rather than the cheese course?” They were and it's too bad, but I guess two slabs of meat weren't in order. Around that time, according to my notes, Doug uttered the words “ I'ma big ass Cabernet and I'm here to see you ,” but I have no idea of the context. Anyway, we finished off with a Joseph Phelps Late Harvest Riesling 1993 (which I can sum up in one word – sweet) and I then bucked down two glasses of Bollinger for good measure.

As for the dinner, it was good, although it required some dictionary research ( remoulade : a piquant cold sauce made with mayonnaise, chopped pickles, capers, anchovies, and herbs; quince : the fruit of a central Asian tree of the rose family that resembles a hard-fleshed yellow apple and is used esp. in preserves; and so on).

This wine dinner cost RMB988 and was excellent value, with a good combination of food, drink and interesting patrons. For number crunchers, just consider that a bottle of Shafer Hillside would set you back at least USD350 ( www.winesearcher.com – thanks to Campbell for the site reference). For all others, consider that man cannot live on Taillan Malbec alone. Speaking of which…

Tying one on at Taillan

When it comes to China, some people like to whine while other simply like to wine . A dozen of the latter got together on November 5 for a trip to the Taillan winery, about 30 kilometers southwest of Beijing. The trip was arranged by the American Community Club and led by John Bull Pub owner Frank Siegel and ACC After Hours Committee member Shauna Cheng . After a leisurely drive to the winery, we received a tour of the vineyards by general manager Alain Lecroux , who has been with the Taillan winery, a Sino-French venture, since its startup nine years ago. Alain, who hails from Brittany, said the vines were imported, with 100,000 of them coming in 1997. (Wine whiz and tour attendee Andrew McDonald notes that the vines are grafted onto North American rootstalks, which costs more money but protects them from phylloxera bugs. That's some forward thinking by Taillan.)

Alain noted the difficulty of producing wine in China. “At the beginning, French people thought it would be an easy market, but no.” Then we headed inside and learned that the vats can store up to 100,000 bottles of wine and that the facility can process 30,000 bottles per hour (and often does bottling for other companies).

Our little group could never handle 30,000 bottles per hour, but we were ready to try. After Frank unpacked a picnic lunch of cold cuts, cheese, breads and potato salad, Alain cracked the first of six wines. The important thing, he stressed, was not how well Taillan wines stacked up against the competition, but that they are “drinkable.” He got no argument from us. Over a couple of hours, we tried the 2000 Chardonnay (“Apples and pears,” says Alain), Rose 2003 (went down as quick as draft beer); 2003 Malbec (“This one's my favorite,” says Alain. Me, too; it had a “happy smell,” whatever that means), Merlot (drinkable-plus), Pinot Noir 2001 (drinkable), and Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (“it was a bit too peppery, although at this point, I think my taste buds might have been upset by the potato salad, which had a creamy nose, hints of mayonnaise and a smooth finish).” At some point, Alain said, “this wine reminds me of dry grass, two days after it's been cut,” but as is usual with my notes, I have no idea of the context. In the end, I bought eight bottles of Malbec, four of Pinot Noir, and one each of Cognac and Armagnac. That seems to total 14, but for some reason when we got off the bus in Beijing, I only had seven left and my wine-opening hand had cramps. Odd. In any case, home delivery of these wines is available in Beijing. To order or for more info: alain.leroux@taillan.com.cn.

Suzy Wong – Serving a niche market If every bar has its unique clientele, then Suzy Wong's is horny people, aged 25 to 45, who enjoy 10-minute techno versions of Irene Cara's What a Feeling, followed by a similar opus based loosely on Duran Duran's Wild Boys. To each his/her/its own, I guess. The meat market doesn't truly get started until about 11 PM. Those who dislike feeling like a lightly seasoned lamb chop in a butcher shop window, make arrangements to be elsewhere at that time. But it was enjoyable to be the only soul on the deck two Saturday nights back. I spent a good hour enjoying solitude in that crisp fall air. Ah, to have space in Beijing…

The steady slide of Sanlitun Is it me or is Beijing nightlife becoming rougher? Sanlitun North Street in particular, seems to be turning into a highway to hell. Substance-selling “brothers,” physically aggressive beggars, “lady bar” touts and out-of-control imbibers are proliferating. Add to this mix growing nationalism and cases of security guards/bouncers beating patrons ten times worse than could possibly be justified. I've said it once and I'll say it again: “Sanlitun North Street, an even bigger disaster waiting to happen.”

Bubbling over at the Peninsula The drinks were effervescent, the surroundings presidential, the people memorable, as Peninsula Palace hotel held a Champagne tasting on November 8. “Effervescence” refers, of course, to the Moet Chandon. The evening started with a glass of Brut Imperial NV. Then, Moet & Chandon Sommelier Christophe Vincent, visiting Beijing, officially launched the new vintages: Millesime 1999 and Millesime 1999 Rose. The two were launched in Hong Kong the weekend before, but this was the first time they had been served elsewhere in Mainland China. “Presidential” refers to the 600 square meter suite of the same name, which includes a dining room, kitchen, sauna and gym, all for a paltry US$4500 per night. As for “memorable,” it refers to a certain flashback precipitated by a certain someone at the party who was remembered from slightly less posh surroundings six years ago. Asia is a small place.

The Battle of Sanlitun III I made my first visit – post-breakup era – to First Café and Midnight . For those who don't know the story (and Buddha knows most people on this list are sick of it), First Café once offered an unbeatable combination of cozy ambience, superb cocktails and interesting clientele. Then two months ago, the owner Keiko and the only two bartenders, George and Echo , fell out. About a month later, George and Echo, believing droves of customers would remain loyal to them, opened a bar – Midnight – less

than a meter in front of First Café.

I've walked by these bars dozens of times during the past month on my way to and from the Bookworm. Based on window gazing, First Café has been doing fine, but patrons at Midnight are few and far between. However, such observations do not research make. So, in the interests of accuracy, I embarked on a two-night project with a comrade, known only as Agent Red Wolf .

Night 1 (Friday): We slid into First Café around, of all ironic times, midnight. Red Wolf made a surreptitious visit next door to the bar of same name and learned that it was nearly empty. Meanwhile, First Café was bursting at the seams with over 30 guests. Spirits were high and spirits were flowing, the service was passable, and business seems to have gone unabated at First Café.

Night 2 (Saturday): We popped into Midnight around 1 AM. Again, Agent Red Wolf again went on the prowl and soon reported that First Café was quite busy, while there were but four patrons – including us – in Midnight. The martinis were excellent and we got to try George and Echo's coffee vodka, but unfortunately the ambiance was wanting.

Just to ensure the accuracy of my observations even further, I made a few more trips back. First Café continues to do well, while Midnight has quickly been picking up steam, no doubt fuelled by ample coverage in the free English-language magazines. We'll just have to wait and see what happens but given the dearth of decent bars in Beijing, both places may end up doing pretty well.

Final sips The Bookworm is holding “ A Giant Book Sale ” on Sunday, November 20 from 10 AM to noon to raise money for earthquake victims in Pakistan. The event is sponsored by Beijing International Peace Vigil Group and proceeds go to the Red Cross. See www.beijingbookworm.com for a map. ~ Chopschticks next comedy show is at Icehouse on November 19 at 7:30 PM. For tickets: 13701210489 / Tickets@TheComedyTour.com ~ Sequoia Cafe is holding “ Bordeaux : An Introduction ,” with Sommelier Raphael Sarri , at 7:30 PM on November 19. The event includes one white and five red wines. RMB190. There is limited seating, so email frank_siegel@hotmail.com or call 13301377336 to reserve a spot. ~ If that's not enough Bordeaux for you, ASC Fine Wines will hold “ 128 Great Years of Bordeaux ,” an eight-course wine dinner at China World Hotel on November 26. RMB1388 net ~ In honor of the Beijing visit of Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger (he said he'd be back), Montrose has reopened its Kerry Center wine store (they said it'd be back, too) with a special on Californian wines. They've gone all-out with a poster that gives Arnold an ungodly aura and makes him look like a cult leader. How Californian. Montrose's Ethan Perk writes that the Kerry Centre shop will have a half-price sale on selected wines and spirits, December 1-3. ~ I'm soon to be homeless and am looking for new quarters. I'm currently in Sun City , right behind Morels , and am looking for something in that area. If you know of a good spot, let me know (no agents please, I've already got one). ~ Nearly 30 people nestled into the second floor of John Bull Pub on November 12 for a Spanish cheese and wine tasting. The cheese was hand-carried in from Spain and matched up with five wines, also hailing from the land of the bullfight. Unfortunately, I haven't yet got a list of the cheeses and wines so I'll have to get back to you on this one ~ That's Beijing Big Wigs Mike and Toni came over with all the fixings for Cape Cods two weeks back. Vodka, cranberry juice and grapefruit juice – that's Mike's mad mix. They keep things nice and simple there in Boston ~ The December issue of Food and Wine magazine lists the top ten vineyards in the world. Lo and behold, among them was Seven Springs Vineyard , the winery owned by the family of my co-worker Andrew MacDonald, in Oregon. (I wasn't aware that state had been settled yet.) Congratulations Andrew. When's the tour? ~ Cheers.

Welcome to issue three of my yet-to-be-named e-newsletter, featuring

• Schandlicious
• Relax at Beer Mania
• W's Identity Crisis
• Books: Those Things Made out of Paper
• Feng Shui Fiasco at Icehouse
• The Houston Astros vs. The Beijing Jackhammers
• We Got Mail!
• Eat, Drink, Sniff and Be Merry with ASC
• Stall on the Wall
• Final Sips, Including Chopschticks, Riverside Café,
  Catwoman, and Big Papi.

SCHANDLICIOUS
I organized my first wine tasting last Friday, so I could try three Schandl wines fresh off the container ship from Europe. These Austrian beauties were imported by Oliver Sedlinger, who is not only a well-seasoned imbiber of grape-based beverages, but also able to charm the pants (figuratively, not literally) off women by crooning Chinese love songs.

The first Shandl up was a dry white — a Pinot Blanc (2004) — with a floral nose. If that description is too plain, here's what schandlwein.com says: “Classic Burgundy bouquet, delicate and spicy, strong on the palate, muscular and Harmonic, fruity and racy, spicy until the long finish.” Um, that's what I meant. Anyway, this one got a thumb up from my new co-worker Andrew , who has spent more than little time around Pinot grapes.

The next wine was a Rulander Spatlese (2003), which was slightly sweeter, followed by a Beerenauslese Cuvee (2002), which was sweeter yet and close to ice wine territory. I like my wine dry, but more than a few among our ten enjoyed these last two.

In any case, ten bottles of wine (add in some Soave, Valpolicella, Shiraz Cabernet and Cabernet Sauvignon for an entirely unscientific tasting) and three kilos of cheese had us Shandlerious and fellow guests / that's Beijing bigwigs Mike and Toni dragged us off to Tango for the magazine's Halloween party. We'll forgo details on that adventure…

This tasting was a trial run for what I hope will be more events. Many thanks to Oliver for sharing his wines and bringing over the stereo speakers, to Sherry for buying the sausage and Aussie red, and to Isabelle , Diana , Toni, Lana , Asti , Andrew and Mike for making it a fun evening. Many apologies to American Community Club President / General Funster Shayne who we met on the way out of my building — I had no idea she lived in the neighborhood — and was the unfortunate recipient of a few bear hugs.

For more details on the Shandl wines, email Oliver at iussi@hotmail.com. For more details on the attempt by Oliver and me to write a Beijing-centric version of Sound of Music, watch this space. For now, I'll leave you with a work in progress, a version of “My Favorite Things”:

The Temple of Heaven / is an earthly pleasure
The Great Wall, quite simply / there's nothing that measures
Forbidden City / from Dynasty Ming
These are a few of my favorite things

When the taxi / driver's snarling / there behind his cage
I turn on my Walkman and just drown him out
While outside the red sandstorms rage

( Matt Roberts, could the Ah-Q Jazz Arkestra please cover this?)

RELAX AT BEER MANIA
A couple of weeks ago, I threw on a jacket and went for a walk on a superb cool Beijing night. After 20 minutes of burning calories, I came across Beer Mania. It's a modestly sized spot, run by Marc van Bever, and serves up dozens of kinds of Belgian brews and keeps them in a nice glass-fronted fridge so you can “go shopping” and see what's soon to be in your tummy. Note: some of these beers are in the 10 percent alcohol range and are not to be drunk lightly.

With a dozen small tables and a short bar, Beer Mania seems to be a favorite for small groups of friends. A glance at the menu shows the place serves crepes and a wide range of cocktails. A glance out the window showed three patrons opening packages of Hormel ham and — with each slice neatly rolled up — packing it away. Nothing like processed meat chased down by Duvel . (By the way, I've popped into Beer Mania twice more and my first impressions hold true — except for the ham.)

IDENTITY CRISIS — W SPORTS AND MUSIC RESTAURANT AND BAR
The name of this “Nordic style” establishment — owned by a former Olympic ping pong champion and a professional hockey player, both hailing from the land of Ikea — hints at the identity crisis within. Is it a music bar (the DJ and KTV shows on the tube), restaurant (pine tables neatly set with cutlery), café (with an emphasis on aqua blue and lemon yellow), pub (standup bar and shelves of alcohol), gymnasium (pool and ping pong tables) or knick-knack shop (assorted paddles — signed — and other souvenirs on sale). And while it's promoting Swedish food, what's with the lofty goal of having the best malt whiskey and the claim of having a wide range of beers (um, six)? Then there's the patio outside, a quite serene place with elegant furniture, a water fountain and… a life-sized cutout of a ping pong player. If establishments had personalities, this one would have more than a handful.

BOOKS: THOSE THINGS MADE OUT OF PAPER
There's more to life than having a fork in one hand and a cup of wine in the other (though not much). Thus, we dedicate the next 300 words to books. It was miraculous to find — among the bestsellers, half-assed language learning texts and various other tomes at the foreign book shop in Wangfujing — a copy of Don Marquis' Archy and Mehitabel . It's based on two characters introduced in Marquis' column in 1916: Archy is a cockroach who types stories each night (no capital letters; he's too weak to press down that giant shift key) and Mehitabel is a cat working on her ninth life. It was cutting-edge humor at the time and an extremely hard book to find now. But they had it in Beijing. What are the odds? Words of wisdom from Archy: Prohibition makes you want to cry into your beer / and denies you the beer to cry into. ~ Someone asked me what three books I would want if stranded on a desert island. After careful thought, I picked Ray Bradbury's The Martian Chronicles (for his simple and inspiring prose), Daniel Defoe's Robinson Crusoe (for his advice on surviving in a foreign environment) and The Best of Penthouse Forum (for I'm assuming I'm stranded alone). ~ Speaking of Bradbury, his 1948 classic makes for interesting reading since it's about humans colonizing Mars, which he has happening in 1999, thus leading to some interesting entries for 2005. I won't spoil the ending, but you might end up drawing some parallels from Bradbury's take on culture clashes and your own East-West experiences. * Alex Pearson at the Bookworm says her hottest selling books are One Billion Customers by Jim McGregor and Foreign Babes in Beijing by Rachel DeWoskin.

FENG SHUI FIASCO AT ICEHOUSE
Icehouse got its name because during the Qing dynasty the place was, surprise surprise, an icehouse. Maybe that's the problem. After all, if it had good feng shui, then emperors past would have used it for a dining room or guest quarters, instead of a place to store frozen water. I know, I know, the lounge is partially owned by Handel Lee, who is associated with all that is high class in Shanghai and Beijing. Thus my discomfort is obviously due to a personal deficiency in taste. Even so, I'm not the only misfit, because numerous other people have found Icehouse to be too boxy, too flat, too vacant, too much like the cement-floored, soulless events room in my hometown's ice hockey arena (of course, only I made this last connection).

While I'm griping, why does Icehouse make it so hard to tell apart the men's and women's toilets? I went into one toilet only to run into a woman. I headed into the other toilet only to run into — another woman. I then realized that the first woman was cleaning and went back. The result is a terrible dilemma: either I have to use valuable memory space to remember which toilet to use or I have to start wearing adult diapers. And it's all the fault of Icehouse!

Finally, there's that hallway, which I'm guessing is 80 meters long. It's impressive going in, although some oxygen tanks along the way would be nice for the less fit. But coming out, especially if you've had a few drinks, you could end up bashing your head off the walls a dozen times and/or be sober by the time you reach the door.

Okay, to be positive, I know some people who like Icehouse and I've had a few good times there, too, notably at the Chopschticks event a month ago and at that's Beijing ’s launch of their 2005-6 Insider's Guide to Beijing a few weeks back. The latter event featured Grey Goose vodka and thus there were plenty of happy people, including one magazine editor who described Icehouse as “fanstatic!”

But still, the feng shui factor remains. I dunno, Ice House reminds me of the New York Yankees baseball team. They spend outrageous amounts of money on their product, they have lots of strong backing and they have a good customer base (Icehouse has Chopschticks comedy shows, ASC wine tastings, Beijing Cheese Society events, etc.). All the stars are aligned, but something just doesn't feel right…

THE HOUSTON ASTROS VS THE BEIJING JACKHAMMERS
I skipped going to the Goose and Duck for game one of the World Series and instead headed to John Bull Pub . As one friend said, “Let's give the place a chance.” First, let me praise the breakfast: three savory mini beef patties, three slices of crisp bacon, a mound of fried mushrooms, two eggs, two slabs of toast and hash browns. Price: RMB50. Someone came over from John Bull's sister establishment, Sequoia Café , with samples of their warm, moist, freshly baked muffins. Except for Clemens being out of the game too early, things were going well.

Welcome to issue two of my yet-to-be-named newsletter. It features

• Tequila Time at John Bull
• Frosty Phil's
• The Battles of Sanlitun
• The Poop on Doodoo
• Reader Mail
• Kraft-D the Critic
• Five Questions for Frank
• Final Sips

For the sake of space, I've pushed two pieces – $10,000 Wine Glasses and Books: Those Things Made of Paper – to next time. Thanks for the many comments about the launch issue. Below, I address a few, including whether or not I am trying to get rich from this newsletter. BB.

17 tequila shots; hold the lemon and salt

My tequila shooting life is largely limited to senors Jose Cuervo and Pepe Lopez, accompanied by their amigos lemon and salt. So, it was an eye-opener when Frank Siegel of John Bull Pub hosted a tasting with more than a dozen brands. I sipped my way through 17 of them, with every (partial) shot taken straight up and warm. Amazingly, even a novice like me could detect differences in acidity and sweetness and that some tasted of oak, some left a nice slow burn on the palate and some made you want to hack up a hairball.

A Mexican trade promotion rep provided a tequila primer – the drink is made from blue agave plants; it can be labeled as tequila if it contains at least 51% of this agave, so go for 100% brands unless you want mystery alcohol; aged tequilas are yellow due to storage in barrels, although cheaper brands cheat by using food coloring; and so on. With a dozen visiting reps from Mexican distilleries on hand, the event was fun, educational and surprisingly sobering. The drinks and buffet of tacos, burritos, rice, nachos and salsa were RMB120 – tremendous value. Frank, who opened the city's first non-hotel bar (see Five Questions for Frank below), is now serving Mexican fare every Wednesday.

Frosty Phil’s

There's no shortage of places in Beijing with RMB10 Qingdao, but Phil's – among the remaining holdouts on Sanlitun South – has the AB advantage: A) they provide a frosted glass; B) they tip the glass before pouring, thereby leaving a preferable amount of foam. Phil's has a stand up bar, a few chairs by the window, and small tables and chairs spotted about in a room modestly broken up by pillars. That means enough nooks and crannies to simultaneously be “our place” for couples, a hangout for a group of buddies, or a stop on the way home from work. Besides the neighborhood feel, the friendly staff provides an eclectic mix of music, from Supertramp to George Michael to Don McLean. Where else but Phil's can you enjoy beer in a frosted glass while listening to Donna Summer's “Hot Stuff”?

The Battles of Sanlitun

It's a dog eat dog and bar eat bar world and Sanlitun is no exception. At least three different pairs of establishments are going head to head there.

Martini madness: The soap opera surrounding First Café continues. In the last episode, we learned how two Chinese bartenders came to the big city and worked for foreign owners at a martini bar only to see the place's popularity and their workload soar, while their benefits remained, to put it kindly, stable. Disgruntled, they broke free about a month ago and have now found an investor and set up shop in front of their old workplace. Grudges, revenge, cut-throat competition, this scene's got it all – with a twist of lemon.

Our dynamic bartending duo thinks their popularity with previous patrons will bring in droves of customers. (How do I know? They said so. While we sampled three 12-year-old whiskies I brought back from vacation. Maybe they didn't say “droves,” but they definitely used “most” and “lots.” Trust me. I don't make this stuff up.) First Café's best feature was excellent drinks, and especially martinis, but it also had a potent mix of coziness and interesting customers. This new bar – called Midnight: don't get me started on the name – is about twice as big as First Café's top floor and it will be hard to create a similar ambience. Here's the thing: great drinks work due to the recipe. If you take the ingredients and change the formula, you toy with disaster. And that's what's happened to First Café as a bar. Let's hope things don't go sour.

As the worm turns: More precisely, it's wriggled from Sanlitun North to just off Sanlitun South, just down from where it meets Gongti North. Bookworm leaves behind former food partner Le Petit Gourmand, which has a sign proclaiming to the world that yes, it is open, essential given the rubble surrounding the place. The new Bookworm's interior is clean, comfortable and spacious, with three lounge areas, reasonably priced drinks (RMB12 for an Espresso or diet Coke; RMB15 for Yanjing draft), 14ooo-plus books available for loan and hundreds for sale, excellent service, and the continuing lecture series. (I'm still having nightmares thanks to Mark Benecke, the forensic scientist who specializes in etymology and took us step by step – or, rather, picture by picture – through solving a crime by looking at insects on a corpse's body. The talk was appropriately titled, “The Great Maggot Detective.” The last seminar was by Jim McGregor, who spoke to a packed house about his new book, One Billion Customers.) Besides being almost electrocuted by a malfunctioning lamp chord, my only criticisms about the Bookworm would be that the music is too loud at times and that it is going to be too popular. As for Le Petit Gourmand, it's hanging in as long as possible in a location destined for redevelopment.

Not lonely at the top: Bar Blu was known for having a most big and most excellent rooftop. Then it got whacked in half. Before you could pop the caps on a couple of Coronas, Top Club opened on the other side, separated by a two-meter barrier, apparently by the brains behind nearby Kai Club, which specializes in cheap drinks and is popular with students. I have yet to visit Top Club, but have heard from others that it offers a decent rooftop lounge. As for Bar Blu, it remains for me a mystery. On one hand, it has decent service at times and a good happy hour. On the other, I, and other acquaintances, have sometimes found the staff arrogant (and forgetful about bringing back change). Will the real Bar Blu please stand up?

The Poop on Doodoo

This review is about six weeks late, but I'll include it anyway: Zing by Doodoo's is the direct descendent of Zing, where the staff once took my order three times in an hour and never once brought me a drink. I complained to management later by email and they offered free dinner for me and my friends. Hmm, first they lose revenue for three beverages; then they offer to take on the expense of feeding my ravenous buddies (which was nice). How could such a business model survive?

The new Zing by Doodoo's uses one of its managers in its ad. In the first one, she wears some kind of semi-transparent gold wrapping paper, which provides coverage equivalent to a bikini (for which, if I may make an entirely clinical observation, she has a more than adequate physique). This seems like a takeoff on Centro's provocative ads and seems strange for a place featuring drinks, food, a swimming pool and occasionally, if rumors are true, Polynesian dancers.

I checked out the new Zing (the one by Doodoo) about six weeks ago, on the most humid night of the summer. The haze was so thick that if you stuck your arm out, your hand couldn't find its way back. I walked the 800 meters there from my office in the belief that ice-cold beverages, served by wait staff wearing gold paper, would await the end of my long march. My pets, prepare for a short review. I walked in and the four fully-clothed employees at the bar looked up and then went back to their task which, from where I was standing, was doing nothing.

I wandered into the middle area, full of empty tables, and did my best “I have disposable income” imitation, but some prankster must have glued the employees to their stools because they were permanently stuck there. I warranted a glance or two, but only that. Is this what the Galapagos Islands is like, with lizards lying in the sunshine, occasionally accumulating the energy to raise a foot or flick out a tongue? Anyway, I waited a minute, then another, and then grabbed my bag and left, with yet another experience at Zing's sans drink under my belt. On the way out, did I hear the faint sound of a toilet flushing? Bye bye, Doodoo?

Reader Mail

We get e-mail – more messages than you can count on several fingers on one hand. Here are four that made me furrow my brow and dedicate some thought.

Is this [newsletter] a commercial endeavor? – FS

是。 And now that I just dreamed for one second that I could make money from my amateur observations of Beijing's food and beverage scene, let me be honest. No. This is a financially nonviable endeavor. Its simple aim is to provide views and news about Beijing's food and beverage scene, mostly in the Central Business District, with occasional tales about good and bad taxi drivers, housing, shopping, public spitting, and who knows what else. But if someone out there DOES want to pay me for this, feel free to indulge yourself.

Your articles are really long. – LS

That was my gut reaction, too, but then I decided that too much food and drink writing out there is short, smart-alecky and aloof. Plus, I'm not beholden to sponsors or the need to fit into x number of column inches, as is the print media.

Who else is getting this newsletter? – PS

Most readers are people I know, and people they know, who love not only food and drink, but also have quite a bit of disposable income to pursue that passion. They range from diplomats to homemakers to English teachers to entrepreneurs. The mailing list includes many people who own or work in bars, restaurants and wine companies.

I would appreciate less prose and more recommendations of wines. – CD

This sounds as though it came from the “dog ate my homework” school, but I lost my Hilton wine tasting notes on a bus headed for the Great Wall. (No doubt, the driver is reading my drivel at the red lights.) I'll try to include more specifics on wines, whiskies, tequilas and other beverages in the future.

Why don't you turn this into a blog? – Too many people to list

People have suggested I do this or add pictures to the newsletter. For now, I'm keeping it a simple, text-based newsletter, but if the readership keeps growing, I'll go online.

Kraft-D the Critic

My friends Kevin, aka Kraft-D, and “Alpha” Veda were up from Shanghai during the October holiday. Here's K-D's quick wrap-ups of various eateries and drinkeries we visited on his first day here: Steaks & Eggs (“The test for a chicken Caesar salad is whether the lettuce is cold and crisp and the chicken is warm – and it was. And they have bottomless coffee. More places should do this”); Stone Boat (“The service was poor and the coffee wasn't good, but it was great weather for sitting out on the deck. I saw a fish jump out of the pond [in Ritan Park].”); Le Petit Gourmand (“With all those demolished buildings, this place looks like it's in the middle of a war zone – ground zero. We sat down because they told us it was the Bookworm, but we figured out that it had moved.); the Bookworm (“Great ambience, great qi, good prices, a real you're-welcome-here feeling”), the Tree (“Pretty good pizza, but the salad was kind of limp. Good crowd.”); Apertivo (“The wine of the month idea is a good idea and RMB18 for beers was pretty good value. It was nice to sit out on the patio.”)

We also made two trips to Houhai and one to the Great Wall, where we talked marketing strategies for an hour with those beverage sellers who must spend half the day dragging their cans and bottles (and ice!) up there, but I'll save that stuff for the next newsletter.

Five Questions with Frank

A reporter from this yet-to-be-named newsletter stopped by John Bull Pub last Thursday to chat with owner Frank Siegel, credited with opening, in 1989, the city's first non-hotel bar – the aptly named Frank's Place. Over coffee, he gave us the rundown on 16 years of Beijing bar history and then answered five questions:

I take it you didn't have Guinness on tap back then. What drinks did you offer?

We started with bottles of Beijing draft; the draft itself came later. San Miguel out of Hong Kong was big. At one time, we had Miller draft. There was actually a Miller beer garden at the Asian Games Village and we eventually got the beer. Spirits were never a problem.

That tequila tasting was excellent. What's the best event you're ever organized?

Frank's Place Polar Golf Outing. It started 10 years ago and the guys running Frank's are still doing it.

The Spanish wine tasting two years ago was big. A gentleman from the embassy was to give a talk on a Friday. We had a capacity of 30 and on Wednesday had 12 people signed up. There were 36 by Friday. In the meantime, the Spanish guy told all these people to come down. It was supposed to start at 7:30 and everyone was speaking Spanish, some were on the list and some weren't, and we ended up with about 50 to 55 people. I was really nervous, but they were all saying, “Relax, we're Spanish, just take your time getting ready.” We finally got going at 9 PM and we all had a great time.

What's the biggest single difference between running a bar in 1989 and now?

There is more competition, more places. The population is more diffused – we didn't have Shunyi then – and a lot of the client base is out of the city. We knew everyone back then.

Besides John Bull Pub, what are you favorite bars and restaurants in Beijing?

Because of the traffic, I usually go to local restaurants, but I'm impressed with Hatsune (Japanese restaurant) and the Orchard. For a nice glass of wine, the Aria and the Press Club Bar in the St. Regis – I know the guys there, they're nice people. But I really need to get out more.

What's your cure for a hangover?

Drink Gatorade or Pocari Sweat and then go to the gym. It's painful, but it works.

Final Sips

Time is running out for spending fantastic fall nights on a rooftop or deck. A few options: Big Easy (relaxing), Suzy Wong (people watching), Nuage (views of Hou Hai and the drum and bell towers) and Hai Bar (the same, but more rustic and cheaper). ~ Want to see the Astros win the World Series? Be a benchwarmer at the Goose and Duck or John Bull Pub. ~ Wine industry bigwigs constantly come to town since everyone wants a drop of China. I'm working on putting together wine tasting listings. ~ If you haven't seen the Ah-Q Jazz Orchestra bring down the house at CD Jazz Café, catch their show on Thursday nights. Trombonist Matt Roberts, a former Dow Jones dude and now BlackInc China partner, says the house has been packed of late and he's trying to figure out an encore. Ah-Q was playing at Ice House but the club, being a blues bar, wanted a, um, blues band, which makes you wonder why they hired a jazz one to begin with. ~ Steak & Eggs vegetarian omelet with hash browns and toast: RMB19. Get this and three other breakfast specials before 11 AM, or four RMB25 lunch specials, all October, as the place celebrates its anniversary. ~ Would Summergate wine please get a web page? You guys have some nice Antinori products, but make it too hard to find out about them. ~ The Starving Artists Party on September 15 at Yan Club was another finely-run event by that's Beijing, which includes the restaurant awards at Bar Blu and bar awards at Zing. It helps to partner with ASC Fine Wines, who poured Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sculpting in Time, which provided the eats. Funnily enough, I ran into a pair of Italian journalists were had just arrived in Beijing that day. And where did they hear about the party? From a journalist in North Korea. ~ The next issue includes Marketing Beverages on the Great Wall, Beer Mania, Books: Those Things Made Out of Paper, $10,000 wine glasses, A Bar with an Identity Crisis, and more. ~ Build out community: If you know people who would like this newsletter, pass it on. They just need to send a message to me to get on the mailing list. ~ Again, your comments and questions are welcome. I do realize that this issue is nearly 3,000 words long. Believe me: my fingers barely have the strength to pick up the single shot of 10-year-old Balvenie Single Malt I allow myself each month. ~ Cheers.

This newsletter was originally mailed Thursday, October 6.

Welcome to the first issue of my yet-to-be-named e-newsletter. This one is strong on bar and restaurant write-ups and includes one very ironical “irony of ironies” story (see Fateful Day at First Café below) that shows Beijing isn't quite as big as it seems. Comments, questions and constructive criticism (and potential names for this e-newsletter) are welcome and will be addressed in later issues.

Wining about Beijing

The annual Hilton wine fest a couple of weeks ago filled two floors of the hotel, with over 160 producers from Canada (How often is Canada listed first when it comes to wine? Go Canada!), Italy, Australia, the US, France, New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, Germany, Austria and other grape-growing nations. I tasted 52 wines – these were sips, not full glasses, my friends – along with the buffet, for a measly RMB250 (US$30).

I also looked like a total poseur by writing tasting notes on my little black pad – unfortunately I forgot my turtleneck sweater and Robert Parker book or I could have really stood out. But when you're going through enough labels to make a deck of cards, you need a way to remember what was good, bad and ugly. It's funny how my early notes use descriptions like “fruity,” “fresh,” “acidic” and “earthy,” while later ones are more, uh, creative: “hints of Sprite,” “honestly mundane,” “this grape's got [sic] identity crisis” and “tastes like birch bark” (which I'm pretty sure I've never tasted). It's also funny how you think a wine tastes like, say, birch bark, but then the distributor approaches and says it has “a delicate nose, a full body and a passionate finish” – and you suddenly realize it's true! (And, in the case of this description, get turned on.) When the same expert points out the “notes of Saskatoon berries,” you swear you can taste them even if you're never eaten, seen or heard of this fruit, or know where Saskatoon is (it's in Canada, which at least in this inaugural newsletter, ranks first in wine. Go Grape White North!).

Thanks to Stefan Fleischer of Palette, who explained his company's wines and had us taste each of them in the proper order. (Stefan is opening a coffee shop in the art district – Dashanzi – more details to come). Beijing's other four leading distributors were also there – ASC Fine Wines, Montrose, Torres and Summergate. By the way, to those who know that my cell phone and I parted ways that night, it was not lost, I repeat, it was not lost. The phone was stolen. I clearly remember putting it down at 9:34 PM (26 minutes left to taste!) to exchange business cards and in minutes later it was, so to speak, Gone with the Wine. Be careful fellow tasters. Cell phones disappear as quickly as that last glass of Bollinger's…

Holy crab cakes!

If I were a woman, I would marry a guy like Chef Dan Segall, who cooks up a storm at the Louisiana Restaurant – yes, the Hilton again – and is friendly as all get out. I was lucky enough to try Dan's topnotch crab cakes, lamb chops, and pecan pie with ice cream, all courtesy of the hotel's general manager, Vlad Reyes, who invited a bunch of us to dinner after we checked out the Hilton's most excellent new executive suites. Note: Vlad is not only an entertaining dinner host, but also – little known fact – arranged several hundred marriage ceremonies while working in the hotel industry in the Maldives. So, if you ever need some last-minute vows…

This was my fourth superb dinner at the Louisiana and the place should be a nominee for that's Beijing magazine's annual restaurant awards. In any case, Dan, who hails from Massachusetts, deserves special credit for this last meal because, on that very day, his Boston Red Sox slipped behind the New York Yankees in the pennant race. Grace under pressure.

Sir Laugh-a-lot

Another guy making Beijing better is Rich Robinson, who for the love of humor organizes the Chopschticks comedy shows here and in Shanghai. Two hundred people came to the Ice House on September 17 to see John Bush and Tom Shillue, the two comedians Rich flew in from the US (Tom managed to equate being denied sex by a particular sweetheart in high school with him carrying two increasingly swelling mailbags – with every letter in them being addressed to her and eager to be delivered.) Kudos to Rich and Cherry for making the project a success: check www.chopschticks.com for the next show.

To my horror and delight, Rich bought me a martini. Horror, as my last Ice House martini had “notes” of kerosene, and delight, since I rarely get free drinks and this one was good. Take it as a sign from Buddha that Ice House is poised to be, as many expect, a major player on Beijing's high-end bar scene.

After the show, a few of us took John and Tom on a tour of some Beijing night spots. It's hard to beat the spacious rooftop deck at Suzy Wong on a cool fall evening. Funnily enough, my colleague Lige arrived and remembered Tom from a show he did on 72nd Street in New York – five years ago. If that feat of memory wasn't enough, she recalled three of his jokes, two of which he had told us at the show just a few hours earlier.

Fateful day at First Cafe

It is a sad day when your favorite pub is resigned to the empty bottle heap of history. I'm talking about a place where you hang out with homies, take friends visiting China, and hold birthday, going away and Thank Buddha It's Friday parties; where you show up alone and usually meet somebody you know and, if not, chat up the soul on the next stool.

It's bad enough when such a place is razed for a new, and about to look old in two years, apartment complex or shopping mall. It's worse when things go awry due to clashing egos. The latter has happened at First Café with the departure of George and Echo, the place's only two bartenders and arguably the city's best. (Even my New York City-living, martini-loving friend Ro loves the drinks.) Let's forget the dirty details about whether George and Echo were fired and forget that the bar has been neither demolished nor seen its door shuttered, the simple fact is that the place will never be the same for its most loyal patrons and some of the friends I have made there, including Oliver, Sherry, Joan, Kay or Janet. (This is even worse than when Buca Buca, which had the best martinis in Taipei, shut up shop.)

I've given out 120 First Café business cards and taken 50 friends, colleagues, clients and acquaintances there over the past year. It was a cozy spot with great ambience, a good clientele and, most importantly, bartenders who know their craft. At the same time, I and other patrons have told management many times to do something or lose their bartenders. “No one listens to people with curly hair,” as the old Chinese saying goes, and now we must wait, with great thirst, for George and Echo to pop up in a new locale. I met up with them shortly after the Fateful Day at First Café – it created a good excuse for us to sample three 12-year-old whiskies I brought back from vacation – and they have some new tricks up their sleeves to concoct even better martinis.

The big question now: Will First Café continue along the familiar path of many other small bar and restaurants? A cozy place opens and offers something unique in the way of drinks, food, ambience or service; it builds a cult following and those supporters bring their friends; it starts booming and everyone takes credit (the managers assume it's their administrative genius; the bartenders or chefs their creations; the customers their gratis marketing); a key manager, bartender or chef leaves and quality slips; the place continues to boom for a few months on the momentum of pre-fallout days; then there is a drift to mediocrity and, often, closure. Time will tell, but just as an excellent martini has a last slip, so, too, do good bars come to an end.

[Ironies of ironies – when I arrived in the Bookworm tonight to send out this newsletter, who did I end up finding across from me but – Echo and George. Being the little eavesdropper I am, I heard them talking to an investor about the new bar they are opening in a few days – right in front of First Café. More on this later, but suffice to say I heard the phrase, “What's the cheapest gin we can use?” Let's give the benefit of the doubt to them for now.]

Special delivery

A colleague and I recently phoned in sandwich orders to Sequoia Café at lunch. Given the spotty delivery service in Beijing, I ended up calling the place a while later. I asked for the owner and said, “Hey, we ordered two sandwiches and…” Before I could finish, I felt him tense up on the phone with one of those “Uh oh, we forgot to deliver them” vibes. But all I wanted to tell him was that the sandwiches came faster than expected and were tasty as only bakery-fresh bread spread with creamery-fresh butter can be. Anyway, complaints are a dime a dozen in this town, so let's give praise where it's due. This incident shows it's possible to quickly deliver good food in the CBD (Stone Boat, take note).

Beijing in brief

Beijing has started an etiquette program for taxi drivers and not a moment too soon. I've never been ripped off by a driver here, but have received a fair share of bad attitude. Most drivers are decent and it's too bad they're pulled down by a significant minority that desperately need some “thought reform” ~ By the way, the new and spacious taxis introduced during the past year are a godsend. Standing on the eleventh floor of my building and watching those two-toned vehicles – each painted in a primary color with a single gold stripe – zip by is like watching tropical fish in a tank. ~ To those who complain about getting horrible hangovers from five-dollar, all-you-can-drink bars, get real. What else do you expect from drinking the lowest-grade alcohol around? ~ The new Bookworm is open and with its 14,000+ books for loan, three spacious lounge areas, tasty sandwiches and wireless, it's even better than before. ~ More on the Bookworm in the next issue as well as write-ups on the John Bull Pub tequila tasting, Beer Mania, Beijing holiday adventures, and Jim McGregor's new book One Billion Customers. It's getting a lot of press and McGregor will give talks both to AmCham-China (www.amcham-china.org.cn) and the Bookworm (www.beijingbookworm.com) on September 11. ~ JB.