Beijing Boyce

They say there’s no such thing as a free lunch. But you can go hungry even if you have money.

I popped into The Rickshaw yesterday at noon for Taco Tuesdays (three tacos for RMB40 with good portions of sour cream and salsa). I went upstairs and found a construction crew buzzing and pounding near the pool table, so I retreated downstairs, grabbed a chair, and popped open the laptop.

I called the manager to find out what was going on and learned that the place was closed. I missed the sign on the door as did everyone else - more than a dozen people – who showed up during the 20 minutes I sat there. Anyway, The Rickshaw should have its side deck opened and be back to normal hours from 4 PM today

Since tacos were not in my immediate future, I decided to go to nearby Revelations. I phoned ahead to see if the wireless was working - last time, it wasn’t - and was told it “should be.” It wasn’t.

I packed up my laptop again and went to Sugar, in 1949: The Hidden City. The place had wireless and food, seemingly a rare combination on this day. I had chicken Caesar salad (RMB32) and a coffee (RMB25), both of which were good. The wait staff is a bit over-attentive and unable to recognize English words such as “water” and “toilet”, but is friendly enough. What is annoying is getting the bill and finding a 10 percent service charge… at a cafe.

Today, I planned to go to Café St. Laurent for lunch. Luckily, I called ahead because the place is closed while the kitchen and menu are overhauled. CSL will open this weekend. Fortunately, the eggs Benedict will remain on the menu although there will be a few new twists to the recipe.

I headed for The Saddle Cantina, then remembered it is not open for lunch during weekdays, and redirected myself to Luga’s. This place is also under construction. I saw a patron eating a burrito, but didn’t see any employees. I yelled “hello” and went back to the kitchen, where everyone was crouched over the floor intensely discussing something, so I left.

For the third time in two weeks, I ended up at Sequoia Café (Sanlitun branch). The BLT (RMB30) is delicious and comes with soup, and a large American coffee (RMB22). Fortunately, there is no service charge. The only downside: Sequoia is full of hard surfaces and thus loud at times.

It sounds like the Kokomo / China Doll standoff is over for now. Two co-owners of Kokomo told me last Thursday that Tongli Studio management fixed the damaged lighting console at the core of the dispute. I spotted no ominous guards as I headed upstairs to Kokomo last night, though I found the place closed (to be fair, it was around 2 AM).

Across the street, Lugas (ex-Saddle) is expanding. The place is more than doubling in size as it takes over a venue just around the corner, with the two spots being connected by a door. Expect a similar layout and decor, and a side room that fits about a dozen people. Luga says he expects to open the place on Friday.

Meanwhile, The Saddle Cantina opened Thursday with a party by Local Noodles. The spot was packed, the beer and Margaritas flowed. I popped in Saturday afternoon to try the food, as I’d received an email listing the opening hours from “afternoon” to 4 AM on weekends. I found it closed and since discovered the opening time is 6 PM. I returned last night for a few Stella at RMB40 per pop. The beer is literally ice cold, with co-owner Nick Ma explaining that it pours at -1 or -2 degrees Celsius. Ma provided a sample of the guacamole, which was tasty. The Saddle Cantina is much bigger and stylized than The Rickshaw, and the prices are higher. I’ll have more about this place soon.

On Sanlitun North, 1949: The Hidden City will start opening venues tomorrow. The first: Sugar (11 AM-7 PM; no wireless at the moment), a coffee bar that offers salads and other fare. The Noodle Bar (11 AM-7 PM) opens Wednesdays, while Duck de Chine is slated to take flight on the weekend. I sampled Duck de Chine’s menu last Thursday and, as one might expect, we had plenty of duck. Webs, livers, tongues, eggs, breasts - pretty much everything but lips, feathers, and bellybuttons. I also discovered from the chef that they can fit cook turkey’s into those wood-fired ovens - come Christmas, I’m going to be calling these guys.

Finally, I dropped into Nanjie in the wee hours last night and, as usual, it was bustling upstairs with the usual mix of locals and expatriates. With ten-kuai beer and a deck that is perfect for people watching - this place is hard to beat.

This is the fourth in a series of posts on places that I have recently toured and that are projected to open over the next few months. Previously: The new Nali Studios: The Saddle Cantina, Project H2O; The new China Doll; The Legation Quarter

In a city where some high-end venues seem intent on blinging each other out, The Hidden City, a project by Elite Concepts, is refreshing for being reserved. Just south of Pacific Century building and east of Revelations (ex-Browns), this complex of about a dozen buildings will include bars, restaurants, a coffee house, an art gallery and a private club. Red bricks walls, oak plank floors, ceiling beams, ample paths, green areas, and plenty of trees suggest a relaxed getaway in the heart of the city - which I guess explains the “hidden” in its name.

Most of the buildings are new - the striking exception being a refurbished two-story factory / warehouse that will hold 1/5 lounge bar - though they evoke a slower-paced time in Beijing’s past. 1949’s Eva Lipman gave me a tour of the place last week. Here are the key venues:

- Duck de Chine, a Beijing duck restaurant split into two narrow rustic buildings of 200 square meters separated by a green space and a glass-walled area that displays the roasting ovens; one room will include a Bollinger Champagne bar.

- Noodle Bar, a cozy spot that seats about 12 at its counters.

- Well Bar, an outdoor four-meter-wide well in which a waist-deep floor has been installed: the plan is for the bartenders to work in the well (let’s hope that flooring is secure!), the patrons to sit around it, and the house brew - “1949″ - to flow.

- Sugar, a coffee and dessert house

- 1/5 restaurant, a large space with an open kitchen, “comfort food”, Sangria, and a slanted roof that peaks at about 10 meters and allows in natural light.

- 1/5 lounge with a four-sided bar on the first floor and VIP rooms upstairs. Lipman says the music will have an “old school” theme (think classic rock).

There will also be a private club.

What strikes me about 1949: The Hidden City is its cohesiveness and modesty. The earthy tones, the beams, the green space, and the understated décor and furnishings work well. The construction materials seem frugal - in the sense of being practical, rather than cheap - and contribute to the unassuming atmosphere. Let’s hope the final product carries this same air. The question with such multi-establishment projects is whether they can fashion success from the sum of their parts. For now, the answer is - and yes, this is a horribly cheesy way to end – hidden.

1949: The Hidden City is slated to open on March 31, save for Well Bar and 1/5 lounge, which will open shortly after.