Beijing Boyce

The Top Five Watering Holes Series is back and with someone who epitomizes the work hard, play hard ethic. Her 9 to 5 gig — actually, given the profession, I’m sure many days go long past 5 — is at a communications firm that focuses on tech and IT clients. In her spare time, she enjoys dancing, discovering good food and good drinks, and exploring new areas of Beijing. Ladies and gentlemen, the top five Beijing watering holes of Amy Saltzman…

-

-

“I would count myself as a person who is possibly more concerned with the social nature of drinking, rather than the content of the drinks themselves, so I was surprised when asked to do my own “top five” list. I’m not hip on the classy joints (although I do love me a well-made dirty martini). I’m drawn more to the atmosphere and social elements that add a fuller color and context to what I drink and where I drink it. All in all, I’d like to think this list offers a good variety, and, at the very least, it definitely contains some of my favorite places to chill with friends and/or occasionally get sauced enough to write reviews on The Beijinger. Enjoy!

1. Drum and Bell. I have spent a fair amount of time at this bar, and it’s always a pleasure. The vibe inside is cheerful and relaxed, and I especially love the raised seating area that’s set amongst pillows, where you have to take your shoes off to sit. The rooftop deck has a decent amount of space and great views as well, making it perfect for sitting and chatting with friends. Also, if you’re looking to make the most of your Sunday Funday, the 50 kuai all-you-can drink afternoon special is well worth it.

2. The Door. As I’ve warned, classy is not my adjective of choice. However, even The Door marks itself as a guilty pleasure on my list. The squashed, dark dance floor area is pretty sketchy, I won’t argue that. However, beyond it is an array of individual couches and tables, which are great when drinking with a group of friends, or when playing a game of “quarters” with 1元 coins is on the agenda for the night. Really cheap beers and mixed drinks (10 kuai to 20 kuai for most), a convenient location, and a good amount of space to have for yourself and your pals make it hard to say no to. Also, considering the amount of rogue coins I’ve lost under those couches, it is likely there’s a small treasure trove hiding under there for some lucky guy or girl to find.

3. El Nido. This would definitely be the place I would imagine overhearing, “I liked (band / artist / fashion trend) before they went mainstream.” It would also be a strong contender if the website “Stuff White People Like” did a post on Beijing. However, I am caught in the trendy cogs of this small but popular joint, and I don’t so much mind it. El Nido offers a huge variety of unique beers for surprisingly affordable prices, and I love the infused brandy and vodka offerings, if only because they smell fantastic. Plus, it’s appealing to me that I can see all the beers through the glass door fridges before selecting one (or two) for myself. The only downside is the seating, which is almost entirely outside and leaves many to question what will happen when winter rolls around (brrr).

4. Hercules. When I feel like dressing up for the night, doing the transformative glasses-to-contact lenses switch, and walking 25 percent slower to avoid tripping in my heels, Hercules is where I head for first round drinks. The layout is open and relaxed, but with an air of sleek sophistication. The drinks are a bit pricey, but very well-made (especially the dirty martinis and peach Long Island iced teas), and it still sports my favorite happy hour deals for making the most of the weekend: buy one get one free in the early evening and then again from around midnight till the wee early morning hours. I also love the variety in seating options. Couch? Bench? Bed? As you wish.

5. The Stumble Inn. I really enjoy the Stumble Inn and its classic bar vibe. There is ample space to sit inside (as I wait and secretly hope the dart board becomes available), but if my patience gives way, the deck also offers spacious seating with really nice views. There’s also the glorious double threat pairing of both a lengthy beer list and pretty tasty food. I always know I can count on getting my favorite Blue Star nice and cold here, and paired with a juicy cheeseburger it’s hard to leave unsatisfied in both alcoholic and gustatory pleasures. Happy hour deals are good as well, and mixed drinks are effective, to say the least. Very effective.

Honorable mentions:

The Stumble Inn, the sequel, will celebrate its first birthday this weekend with a three-night bash that blends booze and bands. (Fans of The Stumble Inn, the original, will remember it from Lucky Street, where it was opened by Glenn Phelan and Shane O’Neill in early 2009, featured a list of 100 beers, and lasted just over a half year before the usual tenant-landlord issues led to its demise). Friday will feature the antics of tribute band The Beijing Beatles. (The rmb50 entry fee goes to the charity Bricks: The Great Wall Appeal). Saturday will feature the musical muscle of blues band Black Cat Bone. (I am unable to mention this act without noting that I no longer feel responsible for its near-electrocution.) And Sunday will feature, according to the  bar’s poster, “some guy named Chris”.  (That would be C’hris who plays regularly at Nashville, among other places, and does a very nice cover of Mark Knopfler’s theme for the movie Local Hero. In another lifetime, I used to help organize an annual summer event and for two years asked Chris to open for Black Cat Bone. Good times, except for that near-electrocution.) Look for booze specials, too.

Also on the verge of celebrating a birthday, its fourth, which on Nanluoguxiang makes it a senior citizen: 12SQM. (This bar now measures 45 square meters after that expansion more than a year ago.) Co-owner and Australian Joseph Kornides, who is such a nationalist that he commissioned that Coopers beer sign out front, says the party is September 3, with drink deals from noon until 1 AM and Australian beers such as Coopers, Cascade and VB at rmb20 per bottle. (I miss the days, before Ned’s closed, when that place, 12SQM and Mao Mao Chong made up the Vegemite Triangle.)

Beijing gourmands can get an early taste of what to expect at Temple Restaurant, which should open later this year as part of the new complex headed by former Maison Boulud GM Ignace Lecleir. The chefs will take over nearby Vietnamese restaurant Susu next Monday for a dinner. Drinks are at 6:30 PM, the meal is from 7 PM, and the cost is rmb550 per person, including wine. To reserve a spot, email meet (at) temple-restaurant.com.

And a date has been set for one of my two favorite annual wine tastings: Torres’ Taste of Nations. I’ve been to portfolio tastings by plenty of wine distributors, from ASC to Aussino, Palatte Vino to The Wine Republic, but the difference with Torres is that the company has made it an institution.  (My other favorite is the Hilton Beijing Food and Wine Experience, slated for November 12 this year. See here for my contest for tickets, dinners and an overnight stay at the hotel.) This is the fifth year, with this edition under the company’s Everwines brand, and will include more than 150 wines from more than a dozen countries.  Even better, Torres cracks open some pretty good wine. (I’m partial to the Australian table, where in the past I have sampled the likes of Henschke, Bass Philip and Vasse Felix. Torres also handles two of China’s best boutique wine brands: Grace and Silver Heights.) Taste of the Nations is slated for September 24 at restaurant Xu Xian Lou just west of Workers Stadium. The entry fee is rmb228 or rmb208 ahead of time — contact Maggie at Maggie at 5165-5519, extension 284 / maggie.wang (at) everwines.com.

Some news about brews…

Sanyuanqiao has a new drinking hole as Beervaria opened last Friday in the basement mall of the Tian Yuan Gang (TVG) Center near the Beijing Hilton. Beervaria seats about 200 people and is designed to be a Chinese restaurant during the day — in terms of feel, think Yoshinoya — and convert into a bar from 5 PM, Monday through Saturday. The menu includes Hoegaarden and Stella on tap and a decent selection of bottled Belgian brews, with a bar snacks menu in the works, says the owner.

Starting next week, Great Leap Brewery will be open from Tuesday through Saturday, adding two days to its weekly slate. (Hat tip to Maggie Rauch.) Brew maker Carl Setzer says visitors on St. Patrick’s Day next Thursday will find three new stouts — Fundamental Stout, Hophead Stout, and Liu the Brave Spiced Stout. I’ll soon have a writeup about my recent visits to Great Leap and Drei Kronen as well as what’s happening during St. Patrick’s Day in Beijing.

During March, you can get six bottles of Leffe Blond for a mere RMB150 at The Stumble Inn. That translates to RMB25 per bottle and makes it a tasty alternative to Tsingtao, Carlsberg, and the like, one with quite a kick given the 6.6 percent alcohol. Meanwhile, Beer Mania has Leffe at RMB35 per bottle, RMB10 off the normal price.

Tim Hilbert at Tim’s Texas BBQ has parked a massive beer-filled cooler near the door to make it easy for customer to pick and choose ice-cold brews. If the weather keeps improving, I see myself soon grabbing a few brews and relaxing outside.

Finally, Simon Pendergast of Dxcel, which distributes bottled beer from more than a half-dozen countries, says that Bang Bang Pizza sells more Saranac Pale Ale than any other spot in North Asia. Apparently, this is due in good part to a single customer — who says one person can’t make a difference?

If you told me two years ago I would be writing about an excellent night of food, drink, and  music on the top floor of a mall, I would have been a wee bit skeptical. But such is the case given what is on offer tonight at Sanlitun Village:

Blue Frog: The longstanding two-for-one “burger burger” deal continues, with happy hour from 4 PM to 8 PM. Given the weather, expect the deck to be crowded.

Flamme: All-you-can-drink Stella and Hoegaarden for RMB50. If you regularly drink Hoegaarden, you know a price of RMB70 or RMB80 per pint is not unusual, thus making this among the best booze deals in Beijing.

Stumble Inn: Not only is it all-day happy hour–which means a selection of bottled beers at RMB15, discounted draft (Guinness is RMB40), and RMB20 mixed drinks–but also blues outfit Black Cat Bone will be rocking the joint from 9 PM.

A Monday night mini-tour that includes burgers, brews, and blues looks appealing at those prices…

So many bars and restaurants are opening when so many people I know are on vacation, but such is the current state of getting fire safety, business license, etc chops these days that delays are the norm and you open when you can. Anyway, some happenings in the Saniltun area…

The second edition of Stumble Inn opens tomorrow night (Friday) on the third floor of Sanlitun Village. Like the first edition, it has two floors, though this one is above ground and includes a deck. The public launch is at 10 PM and will have drink specials.

Also on floor three, bar and grill Flamme opened last Friday (the very hungry can try the massive steak for two for RMB398). And Queen’s Cafe, with a nod toward Russian food, opened today (the RMB70 lunch special, with soup, salad, main, dessert, and coffee or tea, is good value). Still to come is Modo, which is in the midst of a series of food tastings as it fine-tunes the menu. As far as I know, Modo will have the first enomatic machines in Beijing that allow customers to use a prepaid card to select from among 16 wines.

Speaking of wine, in about a month Enoteca will leave The Place and reopen on two floors of Nali Patio, above Mosto and close to where former Legation Quarter outfit Agua is expected to go in.

DJ Phil, long-time music mixer at Poacher’s on Friday nights and at Tun on Saturday nights, says come to 1F on Wednesdays as he spins American indie music and some eighties tunes from 10 PM. Poacher’s was recently sold, so expect some changes there.

Finally, the moose is loose: Canuck brew Moosehead is now available in Beijing, with Fubar at Workers Stadium and Union Bar & Grille in Sanlitun Village both stocking it.

A handful of restaurants/bars are on the verge of opening on the third floor of Sanlitun Village, though some of the projects have teetered on that edge for a quite a while due, say numerous sources, to administrative issues (factor #157 to be considered by anyone who thinks it would be “fun” to open a place). Construction is also under way in the northeast corner, though I am not sure what is going in there. Anyway, here are the five spots that barring any more delays should be open within the next month, some of them possibly within the next week:

• Flamme: A two-floor grill in the former Peppe’s Pizza location. The set-up team includes Dev Raturi (formerly of Meat & Wine), Jeffrey Powell (The Orchard and Element Fresh, among other places), and Paul Mathew (see www.bloodandsand.com). It looks pretty much finished and could be open within the next week.
• Modo: The second establishment by Daniel Urdaneta and Alex Molina of Mosto, next door in Nali Patio, its closest neighbors are Toni & Guy and Karaiya Spice House. See here for more details.
• Stumble Inn: The second edition of the former subterranean pub on Lucky Street, the project is headed by Glenn Phelan and Shane Neill and is in the former Double Coffee space. The sign is now up and the operation has a customized company vehicle–look for a bright yellow motorcycle with sidecar zooming around Sanlitun.
• Queen’s: Beijing branch of the Hong Kong outfit of the same name, this large project is headed by Susanna Tang and includes a bakery, cafe, numerous dining areas, and a wine bar. Located on the south side between Karaiya and Ganges. See here for more details.
• Leaf: On the west side, it will feature Korean beef barbecue. The place has a Korean chef and aims to open within the next week. A nice decor, with plush charcoal gray seating.

Going up is Flamme.

-

Plenty of projects in the works on the third floor of Sanlitun Village, already home to Blue Frog, Union Bar & Grille, Oriental Kitchen, Ganges, and Hatsune, among others. They include:

• The new Mosto project, which will be in the space just south of Element Fresh. On the beverage side, expect a focus on wines by the glass.
• The new Stumble Inn, which will take over the two floors vacated by Double Coffee. The project has faced a few delays but word is it will open around mid-July. The team includes Glenn Phelan and Shane O’Neill from the former Stumble Inn on Lucky Street.
• Queen’s Konditorei (see this post), a massive  two-floor Russian joint that covers that includes a bar, wine area, dining spaces on two levels, and a café.

Another project, one that is slated to open this month, is Flamme in the former Peppe’s Pizza space. The first floor will hold the main dining area, with the second floor dedicated to event space. According to a source at Flamme, the team putting it together includes Jeffrey Powell, who had been involved with The Orchard, Tube Station, Kro’s Nest, and Element Fresh, among others, and, Paul Mathew, who is consulting on the drinks (click here for his five favorite bars in Beijing). Dev Raturi, formerly of Meat & Wine Company, will manage the restaurant, says the source.

Inn and out: Fun while it lasted...

-

I can barely keep up to the changes within the limited groups of bars I frequent, let alone the scene as whole, and now comes news that The Stumble Inn is closed. Glenn Phelan, part of the duo behind the place, cites issues with the landlord as the reason. He adds that he and partner Shane O’Neill were able to get out their equipment and stock,  are looking for a new venue, and haven’t ruled out a return to Lucky Street.

Update: Well, duh. O’Neill of Stumble Inn sent out a Facebook message a day earlier announcing the closing. “Due to many unresolvable issues with our landlord, we have decided to close down the Stumble Inn for now…. Worry not, we’re already hard at work and will reopen in grand style before you know it….” I really have to clean out those 1100 messages in the in-box… (Hat tip to DM)

A pair of incidents this past week made me think again about value-for-money drinks in Beijing…

One: A visit to The Beach (map) at Block 8 where a bottle of  mass-market Champagne and six tins of local beer cost ~RMB1000. Two: A visit to Fubar (map) where a gin tonic made with Bombay Sapphire cost RMB30.

Different people value different things when it comes to a night out. I don’t put much value in “see and be seen” spots, thus spending a grand to drink a bottle of bubbly served in scratched and scuffed plastic glasses and beer in plastic tumblers on this rooftop is not my thing. (By the way, the average squat-on-a-stool, three-kuai-per-big-bottle-of-Yanjing drink-in-the-street joint in Beijing has better glasses. Maybe The Beach is worried about getting broken glass in the sand, but surely there is an alternative to plastic glasses that look like they went through ten years of use at a summer cottage.)

Anyway, I value things such as an earthy atmosphere, a diverse clientele, and – because I lack unlimited money and a massive expense account – decent drinks at decent prices.

This brings me to the bubbly. Contrary to the pop of its cork, Champagne – as opposed to sparkling wine – generally offers the the smallest bang for the buck of any alcoholic beverage in town. If you are of my mindset, and find it ridiculous to spend ~RMB700 — a typical price at a bar or club — for a bottle of exceedingly average Champagne, here are other ways to spend that cash (I will use some of my favorite spots as examples):

• ~12-15 quality cocktails at Q Bar (map), either while sitting at the long bar or on the sofas inside, or on the new deck outside, which despite its size offers intimacy and no minimum table charge.
• ~10 cocktails at Maison Boulud (map), which makes some of the more interesting drinks in town, including what is among my friends the love-it-or-hate-it Project 23.
• ~20 beers such as James Boag’s or VB either inside or on the deck at Danger Doyle’s (map), at The Den (map), at The Stumble Inn (map), or elsewhere.
• ~3-4 bottles of quality wine from more than a half-dozen countries at the hutong-style Palette Vino (map) in Dongsishitiao.
• 2 bottles of Russian Standard vodka, with mixers, at Chocolate (map).
• 35 shots of homemade rum at Salud (map) in Nanluoguxiang. (Note: the second branch of Salud is slated to open in Sanlitun North, opposite Tongli Studio, later this week.)
  
• 23 gin tonics, made – as noted above – with Bombay Sapphire gin, at the new Fubar (map). Or ~13 Hendrick’s gin tonics for those who want to go upscale.
• ~235 big bottles of Yanjing, in a glass or from the bottle rather than from a scuffed plastic glass, at many of the squat-on-a-stool-outside joints in the city.

You could also go for cocktails at Ruby Khi, downstairs from The Beach. And in defense of The Beach, the place is simply passing on the outrageous price of even the low-end Champagne available in Beijing. If you like bubbles, and care about how much you spend, you are better off finding a sparkling wine you like from Italy, Spain, Australia, or any other number of places.

Or doing your Champagne drinking at Sunday brunches, such as The Westin on Financial Street, when you can stuff your face with food and booze for about half the price of a bottle of Mumm’s or Moet-Chandon at the average club or bar in this city…

In January, when The Stumble Inn (map) opened, I wrote:

Take an otherwise ho-hum subterranean space, add a good slate of beers, install dart boards, TVs, foosball and pool tables, and comfy seating, come up with some fun events, and you get The Stumble Inn, the new sports bar and lounge in the former Sangria.

The place has since started to draw a loyal following, whether it be for the happy hour, the massive beer selection, the laid-back atmosphere, or the quiz night (see photo below of four-time champions The CRI Babies – CRI stands for China Radio International – who told me they have won the music section of the quiz seven times).

Now the lower level is finished and in the same unpretentious style as the first floor (the “bridge” to the toilet is gone, which should save a few people from spills stumbles). Shane Neill says the space, which includes a sound system, is primarily for special events and that things will kick off this Friday.

See also:
The Stumble Inn: Expect to stumble out

The extremely annoying “lady bar” touts on the Sanlitun Village side of Sanlitun North appear to be gone – let us hope it is not just for the holidays. On my last five visits at night I have heard not a single “Sir, lady bar,” “Massage-e”, or “Sexy girl!”

Other happenings…

Rooftop Pepper, known for flair bartending shows that delayed drink delivery, is closed. (Hat tip to Mr. Brau and apologies to him for taking two weeks to follow up).

Timeout reports that Song has joined the likes of places such as China Doll 3.3 that have closed for “renovations”. I thought the design was the main selling point? Or maybe the place is finally getting toilets.

Hatsune is slated to open its Sanlitun Village branch in March, while sibling restaurant Karaiya is due a month later. Next month, the current Hatsune outlet will offer a free appetizer and bottle of sake if you say “Samurai sushi” upon ordering.

Maxim’s in Solana has a handful of new French liqueurs, five new flavored coffees, and stocks several Chinese wines, including a Xi Xia Chardonnay at RMB88.

All-Star, which in my mind still needs to earn the words “Sports Bar” behind its name, will reopen for dinner on the 31st. It appears the “open 24 hours” concept is falling by the wayside. A sign on the door lists the hours as 5 PM to 2 AM.

Across the way, a new Banana Leaf is under construction, while a bit further on, Water Bar & Restaurant is slated to re-open on February 6. Meanwhile, the long-awaited Crobar is giving new meaning to the words “opening soon.”

And over on Lucky Street, Tao gets back to business on February 1 and The Stumble Inn is looking to increase its list of 54 beers. One patron has already tried the lot.

I popped into Union Bar & Grille last Tuesday to meet Cale Jackson, who consults on this place as well as restaurants in Hong Kong and Taipei, who recently told me that Union finally has a gas hookup and thus the full menu – including one-pound rib-eye steaks – is available, and who first got me into martinis many moons ago when he owned a bar called Buca Buca (I’m not sure if I should thank or blame him). I played guinea pig and sampled some food as well as three wines brought in by an outfit called Golden Gate. But first, two other items:

1. I tend to think of Union as a restaurant, but this place has a splendid U-shaped bar with excellent post-work potential. There is plenty of space, a layout that lets you check out fellow patrons, and trays of candles anchored above that provide a soothing atmosphere no doubt made better by a daily two-for-one happy hour from 6 to 10 PM. Drinks include Cosmos, Mojitos, and Strawberry Daiquiris (RMB42-50), beers ranging from Heineken (RMB35) to Brooklyn Lager (RMB60), and three choices of wine (RMB48-60). I have yet to try the cocktails, but will do so soon.

2. This place also has a brunch menu, with more than a dozen items, from your standard two eggs, hash browns, toast, and meat combo at RMB45 to eggs benedict with hash browns and toast at RMB58. A cup of coffee is RMB20 and, says Jackson, is bottomless.

Back to the wine: There are ten by the glass and 30 by the bottle, organized from light to full bodied and ranging in price from RMB172 to RMB750 per bottle. I tried three of the lower-end wines and found them passable, with the Painter Bridge Chardonnay 2006 being best of the trio (RMB48 per glass).

I wrongheadedly ate half a pie from Pizza Buona shortly before going to Union – if you order, get the large pepperoni - and thus did minimal nibbling. I found the steak juicy and tender, though that one-pounder will set you back RMB308, with a side of tasty baby potatoes and other veggies, but the highlight were the creamy (with a hint of tang) scalloped potatoes (RMB20), a dish we need more of in this town. I could see myself getting a couple of orders of these and washing them down with a glass of vino.

By the way, I tried the burger on a previous visit, and it ranks among the best in town, though it is pricey at RMB86 (that included a dreaded 15 percent service fee).

In any case, I will have soon have more on the drinks at this place.

-

A day earlier, I popped into Blue Frog for my third (fourth?) try at the RMB50 lunch special. I had wanted lasagna, but it wasn’t ready, so I settled on a sandwich and beef soup. As with other visits, I found the meal a bit light, with the value coming from the refill on the coffee. For burger fans, Blue Frog still has them two-for-one on Mondays and continues with its RMB25 cocktails on Tuesdays. New manager Lee is a friendly soul – he told me if I wanted lasagna, I could get into the kitchen and make it myself, and thus showed an openness to allowing patrons to see the inner workings of the Blue Frog. All kidding aside, he circulated regularly to make sure we were well cared for.

-

Finally, I wrote yesterday about The Stumble Inn, which has taken over the Sangria space on Lucky Street. The opening party is now set for Friday, January 16, at 7 PM and will feature free food and drink from 8 PM to 10 PM. Owner Shane O’Neill describes itself as a “pub and game house” and states it will “stay open until the last person leaves.”

Lucky Bar Street sports joint Sangria will soon reopen as… The Stumble Inn. Former Paddy O’Shea’s manager Glenn Phelan is consulting on the project and says patrons can expect a blend of a sports bar and a place to simply hang out with your mates, with opium den-style beds as well as TVs, dart boards, and pool and foosball tables. The opening is slated for January 16.

Look for The Stumble Inn to attract the White Rabbit crowd for pre-boogie drinks. And a shout out to another venue on that strip, Nashville, which continues to draw crowds and offers a very nice single malt collection.