Beijing Boyce

I made one of my relatively rare visits to Gulou on Monday. (RMB30 mid-afternoon cab ride from Workers Stadium, with heavy traffic near the destination.) Some notes on places visited:

Alba: To preempt fans from freaking out when they read my comments, let me first say that I have enjoyed visiting this place–which has gone by the names Lugar and e.a.t. over the years–for a few drinks at night. It offers a mix of interesting house cocktails, an extensive list of spirits, especially when it comes to single malts, and a nice rooftop.

I also have heard good things about it as a daytime destination. Good coffee, good eats, good atmosphere, some people say. Not my experience on Monday. Admittedly, my sample size is small. Some of the lowlights:

• The music stopped and no employee noticed for about ten minutes. Which meant the background noise became the staff shouting and goofing around in the kitchen. (I could hear them even with the music on but at least it helped muffle the sound.)
• The sandwich (RMB20) had potential given the sesame-topped bread but I found it suffered from too much dressing.
• The black coffee (RMB20) was tasty but the waitress took my mug before I finished. No offer to return it when I mentioned it to her on the next pass, just a retreat to the back to chat with the staff.
• Shortly after that, the female staff engaged in what I took to be a gum-snapping contest behind the bar, the goal apparently to see who could snap loudest while maintaining a popping rate of 15 per minute.

When employees consider a place not as one for work but one to hang out and occasionally deal with a customer,  it is usually due to a lack of training by ownership and management. (The only person who seemed to have any understanding of service was the main guy on the floor.) Alba itself is a comfortable enough place, with numerous seating options and decent wireless, and there were more than a dozen patrons so it obviously has appeal, but a word by ownership to the staff about noise and service would make it better.

Amigo: Across the street from Alba, this place is simple and fairly bright, with the sloping roof giving it a touch of character. I tried the nachos, which made up in size (enough for two) what they lacked in taste (nondescript cheese and bland ingredients overall). If you need filler, you get quite a bit for your RMB46. Laptop folks note: at least on this day, the wireless was not working.

Paper: My previous visits have been for drinks downstairs, my first being during The Rickshaw Rally. The upstairs is a pleasant surprise: aside from a low cement beam that could mean a concussion for the unwary, it is spacious and includes a series of long tables that can seat about two dozen people, numerous lounge areas, and room to set up for a tasting such as the one for wine and cheese I attended (more on this shortly). Expect a primarily white color scheme with some personal touches, like the home-made simple syrups for sale

Because our bloodstream ran Camembert and Cabernet-Merlot after the cheese and wine tasting, we decided to dilute it with some infused rum shots (RMB20 each) at Salud. They seemed weaker than on other visits, though this might have been due to the heavy cheese flavors still hanging in my mouth. Anyway, when the weather gets chilly, I tend toward the spicy Salud Special. This place remains Old Reliable on the street and even at 1:30 AM we found about two dozen people, including the remnants of the band that played earlier.

From the former Golden Elephant to Shut Up, Just Drink, bar man about town Jackson Bai has worked in about a dozen places since arriving in Beijing just over nine years ago. Now, after a stint at Salud in Sanlitun, he has moved on to a much bigger venue — and challenge — by joining the team at Tun. FYI, Tun still has good beer deals on Tuesdays and Thursdays — a pair of Tiger bottles is RMB20, while a pair of Stella drafts is RMB35.

Socket to me...

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So, I just bought a new cord for my computer and one of the prongs is round and that generally makes it harder to find an outlet at restaurants, cafes, and bars. Just how hard is it? Less a matter of hardware and more a matter of the staff making an effort…

Goose and Duck: The waitress looked at my plug, then at the nearest outlet. No fit. She looked at the outlets on either side of that initial outlet. No fit. Her verdict: They had no outlets that could fit my plug. I then walked around the bar and within one minute found an extension cord with two outlets that fit. (The waitress otherwise did a good job.)

Kro’s Nest: Pretty much the same process. A waiter looked at my plug, then at a few outlets, and told me they had none that fit. I looked around and could not find any, either. Then I mentioned that on my last visit, there was an extension cord. He said he didn’t know where it was. I  kept mentioning the extension cord and he eventually reached beneath the counter, felt around, and brought out a box that contained several adapters, including one that fit my plug. (The staff otherwise made its usual near-minimal effort.)

Salud: I wanted to quickly check my email and saw that none of the outlets nearby would fit my plug. The guy behind the bar — Ah Hui — and I looked around to no avail. Then he checked near the DJ booth and found a socket that worked. I had to move my computer near the door so the cord would reach the outlet, but it didn’t matter since I only needed to use it for a few minutes.

The result: The staff at all three places could have found an outlet that fit, but only one guy–and the one at the place where people are least likely to pull out a laptop–made that little bit of extra effort to do so. And that’s usually all it takes: A little bit of extra effort.

Charlie Flint: The first to step up with a shirt.

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T-shirts don’t make and deliver themselves, people! So, if you want to join the T-Shirts for Jackson contest, please deliver your short-sleever to the bar man pictured above at Sanlitun Salud (map). [Note: Make that Tun, Saturday, March 20, at 10 PM for his going-away party.]

In addition to the bottle of 7-year-old Havana Club and bottle of sparkling rose announced earlier, the prize package now includes a bottle of Jameson’s whiskey I received in the gift bag at the opening of Molly Malone’s (map) and a bottle of wine received in same at a recent event at Enoteca (map). I also had a quick talk with Jackson to learn what makes the man tick.

How did you end up in Beijing?

I came to Beijing on the eve of Spring Festival in 2001 from Jilan. Since then, I have worked for several places, such as Xiaowangfu, [the former] Golden Elephant, and Shut Up, Just Drink.

What’s best about working in Beijing bar scene?

I like working in a bar that caters to foreigners. I can talk to the customers and learn about the places they come from. By working in bars, I can also learn management skills, how to make drinks, English, public relations, sales – everything.

What’s your favorite drink?

My favorite is a Gin Tonic, but if I go to other bars, I like to order a Long Island Iced Tea. It’s usually good value.

What do you do when you’re not in the bar?

I like to exercise – running, biking, climbing, a little boxing. I like reading books about sales, marketing, and psychology, or watching DVDs, especially war movies. I also like hanging out with friends – we cook at each other’s houses.

Why did you pick Beijing?

I didn’t see a good future in my hometown, but Beijing has lots of challenges and opportunities. It’s tough if you don’t have any choices.

The second shirt, courtesy of yours truly.

Help Jackson lose his shirt!

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Jackson Bai is one of the coolest guys in the local bar scene. He is personable, he keeps the homemade rum flowing at Sanlitun Salud (map) and… he always wears a white T-shirt. We all need a little diversity in our lives, thus, with his permission, I am launching a T-shirts for Jackson Campaign.

Participation is easy: Simply give Jackson a new T-shirt, take a photo of him with it, email that photo to me at beijingboyce (at) yahoo.com, and you will be entered into a draw for a slew of stuff, including a bottle of seven-year-old rum, a bottle of sparkling rose, and a bunch of other booze that I will list after I raid my liquor cabinet this weekend.

Note: Jackson reserves the right to refuse any T-shirt, so don’t try giving him one that is used or that has holes, stains, or the aroma of a night spent in the gutter.

Also of note, Nick Lara will be guest bartending at Sanlitun Salud this Saturday as the bar celebrates its 100-day anniversary. Expect him to wear his custom-made red devil suit.

Every night is ladies night – well, almost – for bar explorer Samantha Ma. Here are her five favorite spots to go in Beijing. (See more top fives here.)

Tun (map): The best ladies night in town! Big drinks to lighten things up, and crazy dancing. A great way to release your stress after a hard week’s work – and free to boot.

Red Moon (map) (the one at the Grand Hyatt, not the one in Sanlitun): Great lounge band that performs Western and Chinese classics, making use of traditional instruments like the erhu and guzheng. And great cocktails!

Salud (map) (Sanlitun): I liked their spiced rums. Sitting outside on a weekend night watching Sanlitun go by is fantastic fun.

Danger Doyles (map): A great bar  and the rooftop is perfect on a nice summer night. The pool table is a little beat up, but there is hardly ever a wait, and they have free pizza on Wednesdays.

Xiu (map): Bejing’s new “it” bar really is nice. An elegant atmosphere, good drinks (although pretty expensive), and great live bands when I’ve been.

After a hard week spent working on my computer screen tan, I met The Village Grouch for a drink last weekend and ended up on a bit of a pub crawl.

D Lounge (map): This spot is on the street linking Salsa Caribe and Tun. The gist of the conversation with a guy at the door at 9:30 PM:

Him: [Moving to block door] “Can I help you?”

Me: “Yeah, we’d like to get a drink.”

Him: “Are you on the guest list?”

Me: “Um, no. But I can understand why having one is important, you know, to keep out the riffraff. You wouldn’t want them to bother the… oh, wait, there isn’t anyone here on a Friday night.

I had the impression D Lounge is a private club, but it appears there was a special event on this night, so I will attempt a second visit. Interesting that a place going for the high-end enters off the migration route of drunk students, wasted expatriates, drug dealers, and grouchy bloggers, among others. Then again, maybe that is part of its appeal…

1949: The former bar 1/5 (map) will reopen as two separate venues, according to an assistant manager that gave us an impromptu tour. Downstairs will continue to be dominated by a long narrow bar, have an extensive Champagne list, and sport a much lighter décor – think whites, creams, and floral patterns. Upstairs will feature a private club – this time think whiskey and cigars – and a décor heavy on flat gray. (By the way, good turnouts at 1949′s Sugar Bar, Duck de Chine, and the outdoor bar that looks like a giant illuminated toilet puck. Even Taverna was almost half full.)

Still seeking our first drink, we walked to Q Bar (map), first passing Tun (map), which was gearing up for another packed ladies night. Success. The Village Grouch had a Gin Tonic and tried to figure out why it tasted so good compared to his homemade concoctions using the same gin and tonic water. (It’s the ice, baby.) I went for my old standby, the Alfonso Special, which offers good bang for the buck.

Next stop, The Saddle Cantina (map), where four-fifths of Black Cat Bone were enjoying drinks on the deck. I often wonder why the owners didn’t put sibling establishment Side Saddle downstairs, which is usually empty, instead of on Nali’s south side, and thus save on rent and staff expenses. More foot traffic and exposure, I guess, but at least in my case, I used to go to Saddle Cantina for food and drinks, but now almost always go to Side Saddle, grab a burrito, and skip the beverages. Anyway, the deck remains pleasant and provides a view of the courtyard, where the tables opposite Saddle, Let’s Burger, soon-to-open Let’s Seafood, and Ciro’s Pomodoro were once again pretty much full.

Salud (map): We met Mr. Hao and Ms. Hao here and dipped into the homemade rum. I had the “Salud special“, though given it has 11 spices, I am renaming it the KFC shooter. These are dangerous drinks, given how big they are and how fast they go down.

Fubar (map): Where else can I get a honey vodka and ginger ale for RMB20? While the decor feels unfinished and the light above the bar reminds me of a combination of giant tanning booth and taillight, it is hard to beat this place for value. (Note: Fubar will close from September 15 to October 2.)

Maggie’s (map): This tends to be a love-it-or-hate-it place, but if Beijing bars were judged on lighting, staff efficiency, general design,and clean toilets, it would rank among the top five in Beijing. For example, the focused lights on the shelves of bottles that run above the circumference of the bar, the softer lights that expose the ceiling beams painted with traditional Chinese scenes, and the sparing use of neon and motion lighting all combine to provide a soft texture. I’m curious as to who put this all together…

A pair of incidents this past week made me think again about value-for-money drinks in Beijing…

One: A visit to The Beach (map) at Block 8 where a bottle of  mass-market Champagne and six tins of local beer cost ~RMB1000. Two: A visit to Fubar (map) where a gin tonic made with Bombay Sapphire cost RMB30.

Different people value different things when it comes to a night out. I don’t put much value in “see and be seen” spots, thus spending a grand to drink a bottle of bubbly served in scratched and scuffed plastic glasses and beer in plastic tumblers on this rooftop is not my thing. (By the way, the average squat-on-a-stool, three-kuai-per-big-bottle-of-Yanjing drink-in-the-street joint in Beijing has better glasses. Maybe The Beach is worried about getting broken glass in the sand, but surely there is an alternative to plastic glasses that look like they went through ten years of use at a summer cottage.)

Anyway, I value things such as an earthy atmosphere, a diverse clientele, and – because I lack unlimited money and a massive expense account – decent drinks at decent prices.

This brings me to the bubbly. Contrary to the pop of its cork, Champagne – as opposed to sparkling wine – generally offers the the smallest bang for the buck of any alcoholic beverage in town. If you are of my mindset, and find it ridiculous to spend ~RMB700 — a typical price at a bar or club — for a bottle of exceedingly average Champagne, here are other ways to spend that cash (I will use some of my favorite spots as examples):

• ~12-15 quality cocktails at Q Bar (map), either while sitting at the long bar or on the sofas inside, or on the new deck outside, which despite its size offers intimacy and no minimum table charge.
• ~10 cocktails at Maison Boulud (map), which makes some of the more interesting drinks in town, including what is among my friends the love-it-or-hate-it Project 23.
• ~20 beers such as James Boag’s or VB either inside or on the deck at Danger Doyle’s (map), at The Den (map), at The Stumble Inn (map), or elsewhere.
• ~3-4 bottles of quality wine from more than a half-dozen countries at the hutong-style Palette Vino (map) in Dongsishitiao.
• 2 bottles of Russian Standard vodka, with mixers, at Chocolate (map).
• 35 shots of homemade rum at Salud (map) in Nanluoguxiang. (Note: the second branch of Salud is slated to open in Sanlitun North, opposite Tongli Studio, later this week.)
  
• 23 gin tonics, made – as noted above – with Bombay Sapphire gin, at the new Fubar (map). Or ~13 Hendrick’s gin tonics for those who want to go upscale.
• ~235 big bottles of Yanjing, in a glass or from the bottle rather than from a scuffed plastic glass, at many of the squat-on-a-stool-outside joints in the city.

You could also go for cocktails at Ruby Khi, downstairs from The Beach. And in defense of The Beach, the place is simply passing on the outrageous price of even the low-end Champagne available in Beijing. If you like bubbles, and care about how much you spend, you are better off finding a sparkling wine you like from Italy, Spain, Australia, or any other number of places.

Or doing your Champagne drinking at Sunday brunches, such as The Westin on Financial Street, when you can stuff your face with food and booze for about half the price of a bottle of Mumm’s or Moet-Chandon at the average club or bar in this city…

In the latest installment of the watering holes series, Alex Lopez gives his top five places to grab a drink in Beijing. Lopez is a self-described local music lover, hutong runner, and dive bar connoisseur. He works in brand licensing, is a student of Chinese, and moonlights as “religious adviser” to the infamous Beijing Full Moon Hash. Here, in no particular order, are his top five bars…

Lydia’s Manor Café (map): My favorite hole-in-the-wall. Lydia, the very friendly (and funny) manager, runs a nice little Italian joint south of Lama Temple. The pizza isn’t the most authentic in Beijing, but it’s flavorful and goes well with the… here it comes… micro-brewed light and dark beers. The micro brews are tasty (I like the dark) and go for 10 kuai per pint. You really can’t beat that.

Kokomo (map): Best open air dancing in Beijing, period. No cover, unpretentious, and casual enough to really let it all out and have fun. I especially recommend Friday nights with DJ Andrés. These can go quite late.

Reef Bar (map): Best beer bar on Nanluoguxiang. There’s a big fridge full of imported brews, and the Tsingtao is still only 10 kuai for after your taste buds are too drunk to know the difference. Very popular with young locals, and a great place to meet non-expat friends.

The Smugglers (map): I maintain that Yanjing in stubby bottles is the best tasting domestic beer. Smugglers sells these for 15 kuai per pair. Not only the best value in Sanlitun, but also the only dive with the balls to break the Tsingtao stranglehold on the Beijing bar scene. Usually my first or last bar of the night.

Jiangjinjiu Live (map): Beijing lacks a truly stellar live music venue, but Jiangjinjiu is just about as good as it gets. Live folk acts Thursday through Sunday, usually without a cover. If it gets too hot inside, you can relax outside in the shadow of the Drum Tower and Bell Tower.

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Top fives:

• Elyse Ribbons
• Cam Macmurchy
• Brandon Chemers
• Jon, Jackson, Richard, Adam & Andy of RandomK(e)
• Andrew Schorr & Ellis Rahhal
• Pete Demola
• Shane Crombie
• Ben Shaw
• Kaiser Kuo
• Bjorn Stabell
• Phoebe Wong
• Diane Fermin
• Badr Benjelloun
• Elisabeth Tchoudjinoff & Katrina Arndt
• Paul Adkins
• Chandler Jurinka
• Kevin Shen
• Steven Schwankert

Mondays nights should mean a relaxing meal, perhaps a drink or two, and turning in early. Unless you end up with  DJ Chunky, Dr Doom, Mr Brau, and B-Daze. Then it means shooting the shit, shooting homemade rum,  and shooting down any hopes of getting home before the wee hours of the morning. Places visited…

Lugar (map): With the pool table eliminated downstairs, this place now has a slight Le Petit Gourmand feel, one that would be strengthened if those empty shelves end up lined with books. I could see myself popping in to check my email or read a book, then sampling some of the signature cocktails or dozens of single malts. The rooftop offers views of the surrounding hutongs and sports new furniture,  including patio-style chairs and tables, although sitting atop the glass floor is a bit unnerving.

The food menu has shifted from Vietnamese and Taiwanese snacks to salads, sandwiches, pastas, and the like. One patron found the lasagna tasty, while I thought the bread used for my sandwich too dry. Finally, the service could be better. The staff is friendly, but the two dozen people gathered on the roof for a “tweet-up” – a gathering of Twitter users – too often found themselves with empty bottles and glasses, to the point that people had to go downstairs to refresh their drinks.

Salud (map) (also known as e.a.t.): We sauntered down Nanluoguxiang and found that places either had a decent crowd (Reef Bar, Guitar Bar, Salud, etc) or were pretty much empty. We parked at Salud and did a few rounds of the homemade infused rums. I liked the Salud special, with its spicy aromas (cumin, cloves, etc) and strong cinnamon finish. The orange and clove would be better with added citrus power to balance the spices (add more rinds to the recipe?).

Chocolate (map): DJ Chunky, Mr Brau, and I figured this would be the one place with a solid crowd and we were right.

Maggie’s (map): The previous venue on Workers Stadium East had an earthy atmosphere that the newer spot on Ritan Park has been unable to evoke. The place is well-designed, with the traditional painted ceiling beams exposed, the bar nicely lit, and seating options that include lounge areas, a square bar, and space near the dance floor. And the service is quick and professional. It simply misses the vibe of the old place.

The Den (map): A final pit stop for fuel. As always, a late night at The Den draws a clientele almost as diverse as that at the Star Wars Cantina. I went for the least healthy item on the menu – The Den combo – which includes deep-fried mushrooms, potatoes, spring rolls, and two or three other items. There is no faster way to end a night than to put yourself into a food coma…

RandomK(e)’s “Waiting” cover

Locally based band RandomK(e) recently released its first CD “Waiting” with a launch party at Mao Livehouse. According to the band’s MySpage page, “RandomK(e) was formed in 2004 and has been bringing its unlikely combination of spacey soundscapes, noise-funk-pop experimentalism and pummeling force that’s spelled R.O.C.K. to Beijing’s masses for over four years.” Couldn’t have said it better myself. Actually, I couldn’t have come up with that description if I tried. Anyway, I asked each member of the band to list his favorite drinking hole in Beijing. Here they are…

Jon Campbell (drums)

While it’s obvious because we had our CD release and fourth anniversary extravaganza there on March 21, we feel more than a lot of love for Mao Livehouse (map). Nobody will mistake it for a good place to get a drink (many tell me it is difficult, though I personally can’t complain because the bartender knows me well enough that I don’t have to even order, and sometimes, instead of giving me whiskey, he might pour a complimentary paper cup of Chinese apple cider-ish stuff masquerading as Champagne – OK, only once). So… forget your rules. I’m choosing two, one for the rock and one for the drink.

First, the rock: 2 Kolegas (map). The guys are so committed to music that how can you not revel in the love and the general vibe, despite the grime of the joint. For playing or watching music, this place rocks harder than anywhere other than Mao, even though this is rarely recognized. For almost four years they have managed to walk the fine line between eliciting the nostalgia of the so-called ‘good old days’ (when there was a small rock scene that wasn’t tainted by international media attention, where the music and venues sucked, but because it was small, everyone was happier), and bringing up the standards enough to make you believe that we’re in the good-now-days. And I haven’t even mentioned the grass area or the kebabs or the stiff drinks they pour.

Second, the drink: Jazz Ya (map). Every time I go back I catch myself not believing that they’ve been doing what they do for all these years – and are still doing it better than so many others. Sure, the Long Island is rave-worthy, but to delve into their cocktail menu is to be rewarded with well-crafted and well-presented treats. They could use a third CD for their stereo, but then again, it’s nice knowing exactly what you’re going to get, even after, what is it, 15 years?

Jackson Garland (upright bass, laptop, samples,
sounds, knobs, buttons, vox)

For music and drinks: 2 Kolegas. I second everything said earlier by Jon about the place. Yeah, it’s grimy, but so is Beijing and everything I love about it. We’ve played some great gigs there, and I’ve seen and heard some great music there, occasional sound issues not withstanding. Dos Kolegas can’t be beat for both a late-night, borderline-sloppy drunken hangout and a music venue that could be called “daring” in its embrace of live music sporting all shapes, colors, and odors. Throw in a totally surreal location and regular evenings of cerebral joy and sonic assault in the form of Yan Jun’s Waterland Kwanyin series (hosted there on most Tuesday evenings), and you’ve got a winner in my book. I dig most of the live venues in town, but I always find myself coming back to the lawn.

Richard Todd (guitar/vox)

Cafe Zarah (map). Because it has a drink called The Swimming Pool in which it is possible to become lost for days on end. And a toilet into which several peering cats watch you pee.

Adam Pillsbury (bass)

Salud (map): Friendly, festive and effortlessly cool, this is a neighborhood joint worth traveling across town to frequent. As is the case at sibling establishments Ginkgo (map) and Cafe de la Poste (map), the good vibes here originate with French manager Nico, whose smile is unperturbed by thirsty crowds or, during a RandomK(e) set, visits from the local constabulary. He and his staff have good reason to grin, for they offer arguably the best pours in Beijing – wine glasses are filled to the rim – at prices more than fair. In the afternoon and early evening, Salud’s vaguely Mediterranean design – warm woods and terracotta paint – and the semi-privacy of its second story tables make it a fine spot in which to catch up with friends or recharge after a hutong adventure. But once the sangria and house spiced rum start to flow, or when a band takes the stage, things get raucous and the party goes late, often spilling into Nanluoguxiang. Yes, Salud has become enormously popular in the past year, but the crowd it draws is invariably amicable, and it has hosted some of the most memorable gatherings this bassist has attended in Beijing.

Andy Birch aka Rh1n0t10n (video)

Underground pool halls: In the concrete rabbit warrens that exist under most of the new Beijing high risers, department stores and restaurants, can be found a thriving pool and snooker community. If you’re willing to stick with one place, eventually the staff will come to realise that beer should be served cold and they might even turn the fridge on for you. Often a quick phone call 10 minutes before arrival ensures the beer is put into the freezer and the nine ball table is dusted off.

It’ll even remind you of your favourite rock club as the hall fills up with smoke and your clothes smell like a packet of Zhongnanhai, although the TV in the corner blasting out canto pop takes a little getting used to.

If you are lucky some of these halls will serve stronger stuff – a bottle of vodka will usually be found hidden behind those red boxes of Baijou if you dig around enough. There are no queues for the pool table, the beer is cheap, and after three hours of playing pool it’s rare if you spend more than 100 kuai.

And best of all, they are open 24 hours.

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Top fives:

• Andrew Schorr & Ellis Rahhal
• Pete Demola
• Shane Crombie
• Ben Shaw
• Kaiser Kuo
• Bjorn Stabell
• Phoebe Wong
• Diane Fermin
• Badr Benjelloun
• Elisabeth Tchoudjinoff & Katrina Arndt
• Paul Adkins
• Chandler Jurinka
• Kevin Shen
• Steven Schwankert

Note: This is the first post on this blog to include pop-up maps (click the word “map” listed beside each place) and the ability to forward bar addresses to your mobile phone (see here for details).

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In the latest installment of the Top Five Watering Holes series, Andrew Schorr and Ellis Rahhal of Mobile Native give their top picks for drinks in the city, including a convenience store, a pizza joint, and a Bar That Shall Not Be Named.

The Wudaokou 7-ELEVEN (map)

Ellis: Amazing people-watching. There’s always dozens of people hovering inside and outside regardless of season because of the proximity to the dance club Propaganda. Students from every corner of the world, lurkers, beggars, can collectors, chuanr stand workers, police, and locals from all over the city stand out front either taking a breather from mad hip hop exercise or spending most of the evening drinking relatively cheap foreign beers purchased in the store. There’s always a story developing here. Best hours: Wednesday to Saturday, 11 PM to 4 AM.

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Lugar (map)

Andrew: The cocktail menu is an interesting read – he’s really doing some creative things with his alcohol. Look behind the bar and you’ll catch various herbs steeping in alcohol bottles like a project for the adult science fair. The place is rarely busy which means the nice pool table and big screen TV are usually up for the taking. The complimentary bar snacks and the Vietnamese / Taiwanese menu are also unique. I miss the original entrance,: an unmarked steel door down the alley on the side of the building. It had much more character than walking through the store in front of the bar.

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B _ _ _ _ _ s
Ellis: I won’t reveal the name of this place because it’s small and no one knows about it, and I don’t want to ruin it. Anyway it’s a Japanese-run bar on the 12th floor of an office building, and the front door has no obvious signage. It’s black and loungey with a great view and consistently made designer cocktails.

Andrew: Ellis told me, but I swore I would keep it a secret. But I’ll give you a hint: the office building is in Haidian and the name of the bar rhymes with klarphlips.

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Kro’s Nest (map)

Andrew: Something magical happens when pizza and beer get together.  Kro’s has always had some of the best deals in town on great imported beers, including Thirsty Thursday buckets of five beers for 80 RMB. While this deal has not been offered lately, it will hopefully return once a new batch of beer arrives.  This place is also getting some great Australian beers: Crown, Redback, VB, and Boags.  Those and the Brooklyn beers are all 30RMB normally, and I was told recently they have a new joint China-Oz beer called Lucky coming in soon for 20RMB/bottle.

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Salud (map)

Ellis: I seem to come to this place with a different group of people every time. The warm reddish and brown tones and intimate seating along with good music at a reasonable volume always lead to interesting conversations. The wooden loft gives the setting a more immediate feel, and people are often dancing downstairs in front of the bar.

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Top fives:

• Andrew Schorr & Ellis Rahhal
• Pete Demola
• Shane Crombie
• Ben Shaw
• Kaiser Kuo
• Bjorn Stabell
• Phoebe Wong
• Diane Fermin
• Badr Benjelloun
• Elisabeth Tchoudjinoff & Katrina Arndt
• Paul Adkins
• Chandler Jurinka
• Kevin Shen
• Steven Schwankert

Earlier today I explained why Nanluoguxiang is earning a bigger chunk of my nightlife budget. That spend trend continued yesterday as BeijingDaze and I headed there for a few drinks.

12SQM: We started at the self-proclaimed smallest bar in the city and found it – with eight people inside – fairly busy. I ordered a Black Russian while BD went for a White Russian (RMB30 each). He prefers to have the Kahlua poured in first so it can settle at the bottom, while bartender Joseph says his regulars like to have it mixed. (Frankly, I prefer Coopers Pale Ale to both.) By the way, for a bar of its size, 12SQM offers a big selection of single malts.

Passby Bar: We passed by this landmark but it deserves a shout for its house pies, especially the Hutong pizza, which comes with roast lamb on top.

Utopia: Another pass by, but its worth mentioning that though one of the decor highlights is ballpoint pen graffiti on white brick walls, this place often draws a crowd and offers an excellent beer selection.

Sandglass: Yet another pass by, though I stopped here last week with fellow bloggers and ended up drinking German Lowenbrau and Spanish Mahou, both at RMB35 per bottle. We managed to amass a bill of over RMB1000 – its always those flaming shooters for the birthday boy or girl that do it. This is a place to drink and chat, so much so said one in our group that bringing a laptop and surfing the Web is Verboten.

Fish Nation: “They have the cheapest cider in Beijing,” said BD, but then we had to shift to past tense as we found the place sold out of Woodpecker (RMB20), though it had Strongbow (RMB35). Our White Russians were tiny, about one-third normal size, and around RMB30 at that. We would have been better off ordering the Brooklyn, Rogue, Kona, or other craft beers for the same price. The fish and chips (RMB49) were fine, coming with a lone piece of battered fish, while BD found the onion “marmalade” pizza (RMB38), topped with caramelized onions, OK (I thought it too sweet). He reminisced about watching the Olympics opening ceremony fireworks from Fish Nation’s rooftop while I marveled that not even two months have passed since that day – it seems so much longer.

Treehouse: We found this bar down an alley from July’s (keep going past Super Box). Many NLGX places are hard to distinguish from each other on initial glance, since they tend to have similar facades, the wooden furniture, the shelf of entry-level brand-name booze behind the bar, and so on, but for those looking to get away from the bar street proper, this place at least offers isolation.

Reef Bar: Ever since The Rickshaw Rally last October, I have liked this place. It has a decent number of Whiskies, starting with Grant’s (RMB15 per shot) and Jameson (RMB25 per shot), and beers that range from Tsingtao (RMB10) to more than a dozen Belgian and German selections (RMB30 and up). There is also an extensive cocktail and shooter menu.

The bar proper takes up about a quarter of the place, with the remaining space dedicated to five bar stools and five pairs of facing sofas. The crowd is local, and seems like a regular one at that, and the bar staff is attentive. BD stuck to his White Russion regimen and found this one pretty good.

Guitar Bar: A good crowd on hand to watch a pair of guitarists play. With few seats available and a bit too much noise to make conversation possible, we continued on.

“Ten kuai” bar: This long, narrow, and grungy place felt somewhat like an abandoned house converted into a bar and evoked the spirit of the original Nanjie and Kai Club. The main feature is a long bar faced by about 20 stools and, behind these, small high tables and chairs. People played dice games in a room in the back. The white walls are dotted with enlarged photos, music and movie posters, and the graffiti of a thousand patrons. The bar had a fair-sized crowd and kudos to the lone bartender who zipped about and made sure everyone had drinks.

Speaking of drinks, the menu lists about 20 cocktails, 15 shooters, and Tsingtao at 10 kuai, with another 15 choices at 20 kuai. I had a Black Dog (tequila, Coke, and lemon) while Badr stuck with the White Russians, finding this one a bit too milky.

Boheme: Save for the wood floor, this place looks like a big garage or storage room converted to a bar, with sofas covered with red drop cloths and walls bare save for a few decorations – sketches, a Dogs Playing Poker poster, and a Chinese flag with dozens of Mao pins. The most spacious place of the night, I nevertheless found it a bit grungy. The White Russian research continued, with BD finding this one (RMB25) better than Ten’s but worse than Reef’s. (We are going to need a scorecard here.)

Salud: We immediately indulged in the homemade rums – mango and anise, banana and honey, ginger, and (a freebie!) the special spicy blend (which includes Tabasco). This place consistently offers good times with its generally laid-back patrons, friendly staff, rums, and ample seating options (bar, table, and loft). I’ll write a more detailed post about Salud soon, but on this night, it took top spot as our favorite stop, with the runners up being Reef Bar and the “Ten Kuai” bar.

Part six of a series on where Beijing residents enjoy a beverage (or two). This round is with entrepreneur, IT specialist, and former full-time bartender Badr Benjelloun.

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“Beijing has changed a lot over the past few months and the Olympics have left a scar on the face of the city’s drinking establishments. However, some bars / restaurants have managed to consistently get my patronage.

1. Salud: I’ve been going there over the past few months quite consistently. I love the atmosphere, the homemade rum, and the mix of locals and expats. It’s a bit of a pain to get there from my area but completely worth it. Add the great environment in Nanluoguxiang, with the hutongs and the locals, and you get a great experience!

2. The Rickshaw: Yes, they have a few service problems but overall that’s been the place that got most of my drinking moolah the past few years. I know almost everyone in there and it makes it comfortable. It’s my local basically! The grub is nice and they still make great quesadillas and serve one hell of a stiff drink. The owner, Kris, has been around for a while in the Beijing scene and deserves a lot of credit. The current manager, Andy, bends backwards to make sure everyone is happy.

3. Peter’s Tex Mex: A bit weird to include this one in my list of watering holes, but when I want good value, this is where I go. Best Tex-Mex in Beijing bar none and they have a great selection of wines at prices slightly above supermarket rates. The staff is friendly, the place is clean, and it’s a nice quiet hideaway.

4. Wain Wain: One of the city’s best-kept secrets. Hard to beat for a little mid-week beverage overlooking the city lights in a cosy environment. They have practically doubled their prices for the Olympics but still run some pretty good specials.

5. Kokomo and Q Bar: These two are tied because they are the only two places to make a decent Mai Tai which is one of my two favorite drinks. Kokomo even offers two varieties, an authentic one and a Hawaii Mai Tai. Q makes a hybrid Mai Tai that just rocks and had they managed to keep their patio opened longer, they would be in sole possession.

Posthumous mention: Maggie’s. Spare me the jokes here! Despite the shady nature of the establishment, they offered a great mix of atmosphere and DJing night in and night out! The cocktails were solid and affordable when compared to some of these new places opening left and right.

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Previously:
Elisabeth Tchoudjinoff & Katrina Arndt, designers
Paul Adkins, entrepreneur
Chandler Jurinka, Local Noodles
Kevin Shen, T3 Terminal
Steven Schwankert, SinoScuba

I met MH and friend last night in Nanluoguxiang about 11 PM. Here are the spots at which we stopped and sipped:

12 SQM: Billed as Beijing’s smallest bar, this place has a nice stock of liquor and beers (I had Coopers Pale Ale: RMB30). Squeeze in at the lone table, short bar, or window seat, and make yourself at home.

Salud: Crowded as usual, downstairs and upstairs. MH and I tried the orange & clove and apple & cinnamon homemade rums (RMB20: large shot). A good atmosphere, though this may be the most “physical” bar in Beijing, whether that means getting jostled by fellowing patrons, banged into by drunks, or random hugs.

Bed: No taxis, so we walked and found that more than 100 people had the same idea to visit this hutong bar. Lots of action on the dance floor, lots of ice-cold Tsing-tao on hand.

Cheers: This remains a favorite Saturday night stop, with reasonably priced drinks and excellent live Xinjiang music. We met Mad Max and friends here and partied for a few hours.

Halfway through, I did a tour of Sanlitun and the place rocked. Outside Tongli Studio, a band from Cameroon played drums for a large crowd, while the street in front of Kai and Butterfly saw drinkers flank to shank (though they looked more like regulars and less like tourists). I didn’t check the rooftops at Bar Blu or Kokomo, but given the people pouring into the entrances I can imagine how busy they were, and The Saddle Cantina had a large crowd upstairs. I walked the main Sanlitun bar strip and found it to be tourist central, with Swing seeming to be the busiest – two Olympics lads stood on the bar and sang along with the band while people cheered on.

Back at Cheers, I had a final Tsing-tao, danced a bit, and called it a night…

Note: Luga, of Luga’s, has opened a new bar in Sanlitun in the former Vietnamese restaurant Marguerite.

After sending flowers to yourself, strategically placing wrapped boxes of chocolate on your desk, and faking several hot phone calls at the office – what to do on Valentine’s Day?

Besides the many hotels and stand-alone restaurants that will be catering to couples, here are a few options for singles looking for a love connection.

Le Petit Gourmand – Chat, read, dance or gaze longingly at the wood-burning stove at the “after dinner party” on the deck; soft drinks / beer: RMB10; wine: RMB20 per glass; Champagne: RMB350 per bottle; from 9:30 PM; contact Axel axel.mx@club-internet.fr.

Salud – Speedating Specialists presents “Bring a buddy you’d never date, take a buddy you’d like to mate”; the RMB50 cover includes a draft beer and discounted drinks; from 9 PM.

Yugong Yishan – “Our favorite DJs mash it up!” shouts the invite; from 9 PM

The Rickshaw – “Hate roses? Hate sappy music? Hate love?”, then check out this anti-Valentine’s Day party and find your cynical counterpart; all day, all night

Beijing Playhouse – Catch Love Letters, a play about, “the staid, dutiful Andrew Makepeace Ladd III and the lively, unstable Melissa Gardner. They sit side by side at tables and read the correspondence of their bittersweet relationship.” For ticket info/reservations, contact performance@beijingplayhouse.com / 13718908922; Block 8; 7:30 PM, February 14-16

Then again, you could splurge on a bottle of sparkling Champagne, hit the gourmet shop for ingredients, whip together a home-cooked meal for your significant other, and give each other the “spatula treatment.”

Let’s get cooking.

Previous: Put Valentine’s in your Pipes and smoke it

Here is the second of two recent tips delivered straight to my mailbox and now straight to you…

Carolyn O reports on a bar she says doesn’t make the listings of the English-language mags – Jianghu. “Thursday nights are gypsy jazz nights,” she says, with the duo of Nico Torrese (French) and Daniel Brustman (American) providing entertainment.

“They are, in my untrained opinion, very good musicians,” she says. The shows starts at 9:30 PM and, says Carolyn, the pair also play on the first Saturday of every month at La Baie des Anges in Houhai, the first Sunday of every month at the Vineyard Cafe, and occasionally at Salud.

Sounds like it’s time for some exploring Houhai way…

Note: Carolyn provides the following directions to Jianghu / 江湖. “Head east along Ghost Street (鬼街) until you hit the junction where if you keep going straight, you hit 鼓楼东大街. Turn left onto 交道口南大街 (往南走). Stop at the second traffic lights. You will see a hutong on your right, 东棉花胡同. The bar is just about 50 meters in (6401-4611).”