Beijing Boyce

Word is that the strip of bars that includes Shooters, Butterfly, and Kai Club will bite the dust in the next few months and that the facing strip that includes Fish Nation, Smugglers, and The Door might meet the same fate. (No word if Oyo House is included but it deserves to be until the staff learns to add that vinegary salad as a side dish and not beside the eggs on the breakfast plate.) Anyway, a source at Kai told me the place would move to the former Bananafish space in Tongli Studio in April. I’m not sure about the other spots but the basement of Luga’s Villa might work for a spot like Shooters given the failure of higher-end venues there.

Meanwhile, Pure Girl has opened in Tongli Studio in the former Bambu BBQ space. You might be wondering, “Hey, isn’t there already a Pure Girl across from Tongli?” Yes, there is, but apparently this new Pure Girl is by the guys who did the original Pure Girl, and even includes the words “Pure Girl No. 1” on the menu, whereas the one across the street is not. (Are we heading for a Club China Doll versus China Doll 3.3 kind of showdown here?) Expect a dark and dive-y vibe, Tsingtao at RMB10 (guys, turn the temperature of the fridge down), cocktails at RMB15, and the fanciest toilets of any Pure Girl ever–the six units that served Bananafish and Bambu. (For more on the Pure Girl legacy, see The Olympics are officially over: Pure Girl is back).

Also in Tongli, look for Bar Blu to introduce a full food menu, including pizzas, burgers, and wings, and to expand its range of beers in coming months, says manager Tate. I finally visited the second floor of this refurbished place and what a contrast it presents to the lower level, which includes a dancing pole, plenty of glow, and a four-sided bar that takes up far too much space. The decor upstairs is earthy and includes orange brick walls, a wood ceiling, a bar that includes cork facings, and red plush chairs. There is space for about 40 people, including a dozen at the bar. With the pool table, it has a bit of a Rickshaw feel; with the stage, live music is now an option; with the new rooftop deck, it will offer excellent views come spring. Even better, word is that there will be a separate entrance to this floor.

Finally, to return to the Kai Club story, some of you might be saying, “Yeah, yeah, yeah, we already read the same news by Iain Shaw here on The Beijinger website today.” Here’s the thing, I visited Kai Club et al with Shaw last night but I drank beer while he drank soda water. Hence, he arrived home refreshed, typed up his story (no doubt while working through a bottle of Scottish Collie whiskey and Diet Coke), and posted first. Such underhandedness never would have happened if the magazine’s founder Mike Wester were still alive. (Wait, he is?) Anyway, I hope Shaw realizes that is the last can of Blox I will ever buy him.

Remember when – almost exactly a year ago during the lead-up to the Olympics – a raid in Sanlitun saw the series of bars known as Pure Girl shut down and eventually relegated to the deeper recesses of our memories? Apparently, you can’t keep a Pure Girl down, nor should you try, as the place is set to reopen tonight. I assume the place will have the same cheap drinks that helped make it popular in the first place and it is just in time for the prime outdoor drinking weather. By the way, some decent traffic in the Tongli Studio area on Thursday night: Kick and Cheers pulled good crowds, with plenty of people milling about on the street or enjoying the comfortable spring weather while reposed in chairs out front.

Sanlitun North lived up to its rep as an infamous nightspot this past week, which is unfortunate given some of the fun places in the area – The Tree, Kokomo, Saddle, Aperitivo, Cheers and Le Petit Gourmand, among others. Here are the highlights / lowlights:

- Authorities took exception to a Karaoke machine at China Doll (3.3 building) as the club prepared to launch on Thursday. After a delay of more than an hour, the main bar and dance area opened, with the music kept low. Early observations: this club needs to triple both its air con capacity and the gin in its 60-kuai GTs. The latest news: a “grand reopening” is slated for next Thursday.

- Luga’s, the burrito spot previously known as The Saddle, was closed a night earlier by police, who took the furniture outside, locked the doors, and posted guards after telling patrons to leave without paying.

- On the same strip, two of the four Pure Girl establishments that were shut down during a very public police drug raid in April reopened this week under the ironic name Higher and Higher.

- Worst of all, numerous people in China Doll during the launch party told me of a severe beating in front of 3.3 that saw about 20 people swarm a man who ran out of the building and punch, kick, and swing sticks at him. Here’s a take on that incident.

Add to this the ongoing Swire construction mess (I recently saw two confrontations between locals and building guards and officials these past two weeks – in one case one, a woman threw aside some metal barricades and began punching the guards), tension between bars and clubs (the most obvious being China Doll and Club China Doll), and the continued standoff between workers and management at that building just off the main strip.

Does that mean punters should avoid this area? Not necessarily, since the vast majority of people party in the area without incident. But I would again stress that these are times to keep your wits and a copy of your passport about you.

A China Daily article titled “Beijing police nab 8 foreigners suspected of drug trafficking” states that more than 20 people were nabbed in a Sanlitun raid last night:

Police in Beijing apprehended more than 20 people, including eight foreigners, in suspicion of using and trafficking drugs in two downtown bars, said Beijing’s pubic [sic] security authority early on Saturday.

Police in Chaoyang district were tipped off that some drug traffickers and users gathered in pubs in Sanlitun, a bar area popular among both Chinese and foreigners, said the press office of Beijing Public Security Bureau.

I end up in Sanlitun almost every Friday night for the Sequoia Cafe wine tasting, but this is the first time I’ve witnessed such a police presence.

The street facing Tongli Studio was blocked by tape and police, from near Poachers to Aperitivo. I saw several dozen police officers, both uniformed and plain-clothes, and a group of eight to ten people with “SWAT” printed on the back of their uniforms. Hundreds of patrons, employees, and residents watched from the doorways of bars and restaurants, the rooftop of Tongli Studio, and apartments.

Police brought people out of the northernmost Pure Girl establishment and put them into a paddy wagon. At one point, two of these people, handcuffed together, were posed in the middle of the street for what I assume were press and police photographers and videographers.

The police went into A Little High and brought someone out. Patrons outside were told they could go in, which most of them did, at which point the photographers took pictures of them sitting in the bar.

Eight or so photographers then rushed down the alley that intersects the street, followed by two officers with German Shepherds and some plain-clothes police.

I watched the raid for about 30 minutes and, at least while I was there, it seemed fairly orderly and calm.

I then headed to Revelations (a jazz band now plays there on weekends) and The Saddle Cantina (to check the inaugural half-price drinks event “Cinco de Drinko” – one person in our party really liked the Mango Mojito). Afterwards, I walked down the Tongli strip and, beside the four Pure Girl establishments being shut, things seemed no different than usual.

My overall impression is that: 1) this raid was much more coordinated that the one last October; 2) given the numerous photographers, it was meant to send a very public message; 3) now is not the time to be acting recklessly in Beijing; and 4) it’s a good idea to have your identification papers with you.

I’ve always had mixed feelings about Sanlitun North. On one hand, I have described it numerous times as a “cesspool”, given the dealers, lady bar touts, and fights. On the other hand, I like numerous establishments there – The Tree, Petit Gourmand, Le Bistrot Parisienne, among others. Hopefully, the end result for this area is not one of “throwing the baby out with the bathwater.”

Expect more than a few people to mosey on down to The Saddle tomorrow as the place rides into the sunset. Skyrocketing rent appears to be the key culprit for this spot begun by Kris Ryan and Nick Ma that became known for its burritos and margaritas. It spun off Cox, which closed a few months back, and The Rickshaw, doing a thriving business.

What is to become of the Saddle? Given trends on the street, namely, the opening of four Pure Girl bars, this strip may soon see a quintuplet of chaste ladies.

Welcome to Readers’ Writes week, starring the collective wisdom of 17 fellow bar-goers who answered my survey about their favorite Beijing drinking holes and the city’s general nightlife scene. They include men and women, span five decades in age, hail from four continents, and provide some appreciated insights. (Note: This first appeared in last week’s newsletter. To get the newsletter, send an email with “Eat, Drink and Be Merry” in the subject line to beijingboyce@yahoo.com.)

Without further ado…

DON ST. PIERRE, U.S. and “Canuck” citizen, founder of ASC Fine Wines, 21 years in Beijing and “only a little bit crazy”

Your favorite bar(s), and why
The Capital Club: It’s very relaxed, with many friends, and the best service in town. I helped design the bar.
The Pavillion: I love getting there early and chatting with my good friends Russell and Christine, even though neither of them drinks wine, and Christine not at all. Lots of old friends there, too, and it’s right on my way home. No detour necessary.
The Press Club bar in the St. Regis: It’s where I live and I can crawl home if I have to.
Capone’s: Strictly because of the singer Bobby Taylor, and Dougie, his piano player. My kind of music. Lots of Motown.

Your all-time favorite bar(s) and why
The Old Frank’s Place… friends, friends, friends
The Capital Club: Somebody asked about 10 years ago, “What time do you close?” and Dennis the bartender replied straight-faced, “When Don leaves.”

Thoughts on the local drinking scene
Generally speaking, a little low on class and I’m surprised so many people haven’t figured out that cheap drinks equals poor service. You can’t buy a Rolls Royce for the price of a Tianjin Diahatsu! The best days were the old days with my band of Beijing Jeep expats in places like Charlie’s Bar and The Gallery in the Lido. Lots of yelling and screaming and cursing, but we accomplished a lot.

OLLI ROBINSON, British, editor, 2 years

Favorites
The Saddle: I’ll always respect a place where the owner says you can carry on sleeping at the bar as long as you lock up when you leave. Plus, the fact the drinks are cheap, it’s unpretentious and the burritos aren’t half bad.
Red Ball: Beer + Football = : )
Luna: Great decor, good wine, friendly service – all in a nice part of town

All-time
Nanjie: The perfect place for any Beijing newcomer. Hot, steamy and sleazy. And cheap – very important for Beijing’s unemployed laowai community.
Yugong Yishan: Well… it’s Yugong Yishan.
Bed: In my opinion, the measure of a bar is if you could plonk it down in any city around the world and it would still be considered cool, even outside Beijing, you have yourself a fine establishment. Bed is one such place.
The Tree: I never had the fortune of frequenting the Hidden Tree, but its successor is a comfortable, sociable place to drink good beer.

The scene
While not being the most sophisticated night out, Beijing’s still… fun

EDDIE O

Favorites
My spot is Cheers. They don’t try and put on any airs, the prices are right and there is a good mix of live music and recorded stuff to request. Where else will they play the La Marseillaise, George Thorogood, Celine Dion and Frank Sinatra in the same hour while selling you a shot of Wild Turkey for 30 kuai?

JASON BEDFORD, Canadian, financial advisor, 3.5 years

Favorites
It’s hard to name one place because depending on my mood / situation, I normally vary between three places. When I’m with close friends or friends from out of town, I normally go with Suzie Wong’s: somewhat classy with an old Shanghai feel to it, drinks are good albeit pricey, and lots of women. If I am with colleagues, a date or just want a quiet drink, I’ll normally hit Centro (close by and the happy hour makes the prices pretty reasonable). If I’m feeling young and looking to get very inebriated, then Shooters is the place for me.

All-time
The recently torn down First Cafe. Made me feel like I was back home and the martinis are the best I have ever had. I was definitely sad to see it go… On that note, has anywhere managed to stand up to the plate and replace it?

The scene
I’ll go with a memory… In the two and a half years since South Street bar street was torn down, nothing new has ever quite been able to capture the same energy. The string of cheap bars there were so small that there was never enough room to seat the flock of people that would inevitably show up every weekend, forcing people outside onto the street, making every weekend seem like a little street party. Some of the old bars from there have reappeared (i.e. Pure Girl and Taniwha) but it’s just not the same…