Beijing Boyce

Cooking at Migas: From classroom to kitchen.

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Few restaurants have tried as hard to boost the local dining scene in the past year as Spanish restaurant Migas in Nali Patio. Yes, Migas is known for its awesome rooftop, but this project started by Eduardo Gutierez and Jordi Faus has also invested a good deal of time and money to bring excellent guest chefs to China from Spain, including El Quim, Carles Tejedor, Angel Pascual, Carlos Sanllehy and Jean Pierre Castillo. (I especially liked the dinner that featured dishes by “the chef, the butcher and the sausage maker” — worth every renminbi and more.) Now the kitchen, headed by Aitor Olabegoya, has organized an anniversary menu that will fuse together dishes from those visits, that is available during lunch and dinner through October 23, and that costs rmb320. Here is the lineup:

Migas has a funky website, too.

The Top Five Watering Holes Series is back and with someone who epitomizes the work hard, play hard ethic. Her 9 to 5 gig — actually, given the profession, I’m sure many days go long past 5 — is at a communications firm that focuses on tech and IT clients. In her spare time, she enjoys dancing, discovering good food and good drinks, and exploring new areas of Beijing. Ladies and gentlemen, the top five Beijing watering holes of Amy Saltzman…

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“I would count myself as a person who is possibly more concerned with the social nature of drinking, rather than the content of the drinks themselves, so I was surprised when asked to do my own “top five” list. I’m not hip on the classy joints (although I do love me a well-made dirty martini). I’m drawn more to the atmosphere and social elements that add a fuller color and context to what I drink and where I drink it. All in all, I’d like to think this list offers a good variety, and, at the very least, it definitely contains some of my favorite places to chill with friends and/or occasionally get sauced enough to write reviews on The Beijinger. Enjoy!

1. Drum and Bell. I have spent a fair amount of time at this bar, and it’s always a pleasure. The vibe inside is cheerful and relaxed, and I especially love the raised seating area that’s set amongst pillows, where you have to take your shoes off to sit. The rooftop deck has a decent amount of space and great views as well, making it perfect for sitting and chatting with friends. Also, if you’re looking to make the most of your Sunday Funday, the 50 kuai all-you-can drink afternoon special is well worth it.

2. The Door. As I’ve warned, classy is not my adjective of choice. However, even The Door marks itself as a guilty pleasure on my list. The squashed, dark dance floor area is pretty sketchy, I won’t argue that. However, beyond it is an array of individual couches and tables, which are great when drinking with a group of friends, or when playing a game of “quarters” with 1元 coins is on the agenda for the night. Really cheap beers and mixed drinks (10 kuai to 20 kuai for most), a convenient location, and a good amount of space to have for yourself and your pals make it hard to say no to. Also, considering the amount of rogue coins I’ve lost under those couches, it is likely there’s a small treasure trove hiding under there for some lucky guy or girl to find.

3. El Nido. This would definitely be the place I would imagine overhearing, “I liked (band / artist / fashion trend) before they went mainstream.” It would also be a strong contender if the website “Stuff White People Like” did a post on Beijing. However, I am caught in the trendy cogs of this small but popular joint, and I don’t so much mind it. El Nido offers a huge variety of unique beers for surprisingly affordable prices, and I love the infused brandy and vodka offerings, if only because they smell fantastic. Plus, it’s appealing to me that I can see all the beers through the glass door fridges before selecting one (or two) for myself. The only downside is the seating, which is almost entirely outside and leaves many to question what will happen when winter rolls around (brrr).

4. Hercules. When I feel like dressing up for the night, doing the transformative glasses-to-contact lenses switch, and walking 25 percent slower to avoid tripping in my heels, Hercules is where I head for first round drinks. The layout is open and relaxed, but with an air of sleek sophistication. The drinks are a bit pricey, but very well-made (especially the dirty martinis and peach Long Island iced teas), and it still sports my favorite happy hour deals for making the most of the weekend: buy one get one free in the early evening and then again from around midnight till the wee early morning hours. I also love the variety in seating options. Couch? Bench? Bed? As you wish.

5. The Stumble Inn. I really enjoy the Stumble Inn and its classic bar vibe. There is ample space to sit inside (as I wait and secretly hope the dart board becomes available), but if my patience gives way, the deck also offers spacious seating with really nice views. There’s also the glorious double threat pairing of both a lengthy beer list and pretty tasty food. I always know I can count on getting my favorite Blue Star nice and cold here, and paired with a juicy cheeseburger it’s hard to leave unsatisfied in both alcoholic and gustatory pleasures. Happy hour deals are good as well, and mixed drinks are effective, to say the least. Very effective.

Honorable mentions:

Chefs Castillo, Olabegoya, Sanllehy and Pascual

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If only the promotion boards of the many countries seeking to push their food and wine in China had the spirit of the team at Spanish restaurant Migas in Beijing. I will write more about this later but for now a quick note about the latest dinner this place is holding with three visiting chefs from Spain, who teamed up with Migas’ Aitor Olabegoya yesterday for an excellent butchery, sausage and pate making, and cooking demonstration (see photos below). The trio: Angel Pascual of Llucanes (which has a Michelin star for those into awards), Jean Pierre Castillo of Aunos de Vielha and a top butcher, and Carlos Sanllehy of Eth Restilhe de Garos and a specialist in sausages and pates. The dinner is tomorrow night (Saturday), includes nine dishes and three wines (click here for menu), is good value at RMB400, and focuses on foods from the Val D’Aran region in the Pyrenees. RSVP is essential: to book space, contact Sofia at 5208-6061 or sofia@migasbj.com.

Sausage making at Migas

Clam and butter beans at Migas

The wines for the night

This is part eight in the Must Tries Series that asks people in the Beijing bar, restaurant and wine business to give us their recommendations. This time up: GM and co-owner Eduardo Gutierrez and PR manager Mai Quant from Migas in Nali Patio.

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What is the “must try” food at Migas?

Gutierrez: Our selection of homemade sausages–black, butifarra, and chorizo (RMB68). These are “must try” because we make them from scratch in the Migas kitchen. You can try the true flavor of Spanish sausages, made in China and finished in our Josper charcoal oven.

What is the “must try” drink at Migas?

Quant: Cucumber Goes to Moscow (RMB70). This cocktail is a fresh and unique mix of ginger and cucumber with premium vodka.

What are three “must try” items at other venues in Beijing?

Both: Tendon noodles at Noodle Bar (面吧) in 1949.

Spicy fried crab with peanuts (xian la xie) at the fish market we visit on East Fourth Ring Road. You buy fresh crab at the market and then go upstairs where they cook it for you.

Falafel at Jerusalem on Sanlitun North.

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I don’t know my pintxos from my txakoli so I joined a tasting of Basque tapas and wine at Migas restaurant in Nali Patio last night. I have been to Migas for a dinner, a night of drinking with my ex-boss, and The Beijinger anniversary party, and enjoyed myself each time. I like the rooftop (it works for everything from a large party to a romantic rendezvous), the design of the restaurant (although it does come off as a bit cold), and the food (I remember the suckling pig and apple risotto best).

Tapas in the Basque region are known as pintxos, a word that refers to the toothpick or skewer stuck into each serving, and are typical pub food there. We tried about a dozen kinds (see full list below), with my favorites being the Spanish sausage on toast, the Spanish omelet (whether filled with tuna salad or crab salad), and the crab salad on toast. We washed them down with wine from MPC. Fresh ingredients plus generous serving sizes plus superb presentation mean good tapas times. (Standing about and sampling them made me think this would be a good informal office party option.)

I also had an interesting discussion with Alejandro Sánchez, co-owner of Spanish restaurant Niajo on the third floor of Nali Patio. Niajo is known for paella, including seafood and chicken-vegetable options, and I suggested a breakfast version: rice topped with back bacon, ham, sausage, egg, and potato.  I didn’t get much support from the Spanish delegation. Fair enough. But then Sanchez tells me about a Spanish hamburger he makes. Hey guys, if you can have a Spanish hamburger, I can have a Canadian paella! (Did I mention it includes  maple syrup?) I was going to push this point until I remembered: 1) these guys come from a country where they stick swords into bulls and 2) someone recently described me as “beefy”.

Anyway, last night’s event cost RMB130 and is the first in a series of Spanish regional food tastings Migas is planning. (There was also a dinner–this one focused on the food of Aragon–to mark the return to Beijing of chef Aitor Olabegoya though I don’t know how anyone had room for more food after the tapas tasting.)

The pintxos we tried (list supplied by Mai Quant of Migas):

• Pintxo de tortilla con berengena / Spanish omelet with eggplant
• Pintxo de tortilla con pimiento asado al Josper / Spanish omelet with “piquillo” red pepper
• Pintxo de pulpo con alioli / 0ctopus with “alioli” sauce on toast
• Pintxo de huevo relleno con atún / stuffed egg with tuna on toast
• Pintxo de Chistorra / Spanish sausage on toast
• Pintxo de Morcilla con espuma de piquillo / fried pig’s blood with rice and red pepper foam on toast
• Pintxo de txaca / crab salad on toast
• Tortilla rellena de txaca / Spanish omelet filled with tuna salad
• Tortilla rellena de atun / Spanish omelet filled with crab salad
• Rollito de cabalacin relleno con bacon, mozarella, langostino en tempura / tempura zucchini roll stuffed with mozzarella, bacon and shrimp

(Photos courtesy of Migas)

Photo courtesy of Migas

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Top-floor Nali Patio restaurant Migas now offers a three-course lunch special for RMB85. Patrons have a choice of starters, mains, and desserts, with the menu to change on a daily basis, says PR manager Mai Quant.

As an example, yesterday’s menu included:

• Starters: zucchini soup and shrimps/ grilled vegetables / salad with tomato and sesame chicken
• Mains: fish with cauliflower cream and smoked eggplant / steak with roasted potatoes, roasted peppers and pesto “alioli / mushroom risotto with duck breast
• Desserts: Catalan cream / fruit salad

Lunch is available from noon to 3 PM.

Also, there are only a few more weeks to enjoy Migas’ rooftop, which offers a chill layout with plenty of semi-private areas, a good view of Sanlitun and the surrounding area, and some nice wine choices.

The Spanish evolution of Nali Patio continues with the restaurant portion of Migas open today on the top floor. Migas joins The Taste of Spain retail shop (ground floor) and Spanish restaurants Niajo (third floor) and Carmen (next door). Former Legation Quarter restaurant Agua is slated to open on the fourth floor this fall.

Migas offers a mix of exposed concrete and pipes, colorful chairs and communal tables, and an open kitchen that would be even better with tinted glass. The menu is inspired by Spain but includes touches of other cuisines: I attended a tasting of 12 items plus wine for RMB250 on Saturday night and the most intriguing item was the “Italian” rice that included cinnamon and apple.

The tasting included everything from gorgonzola croquettes to black rice to  roast suckling pig to Catalan cream, and the food quality scored high on this night. I have also heard good things about the food available on the rooftop–a superb space with a 360-degree view–that opened a few weeks ago.

The project is managed by Eduardo Gutierrez.

(Hat tip to B&M)

Look for former Legation Quarter restaurant Agua and head chef Jordi Valles to return to the Beijing dining scene in October, says a press release from the company. The new Agua will be on the fourth floor of Nali Patio and focus on the contemporary Spanish cuisine that saw Valles emerge as one of the city’s best-known chefs. It will be one flight above Mosto, Apothecary, and fellow Spanish restaurant Niajo, and is among several upcoming openings in Nali, including wine bar Enoteca, expected to open in about a month’s time, and yet another Spanish operation, Migas, which should be open any day now and will take over the top floor and excellent rooftop patio that was once expected to be home to Project H. Add in the Taste of Spain shop on the first floor and Carmen in the freestanding building just to the north, and fans of Spanish food and wine should be happy with the growing number of choices.