Beijing Boyce

Wonder Bar has opened in the Tongli Studio space formerly occupied by Taniwha, thus reducing by one the number of Beijing nightspots decorated with a slab of polished corrugated metal. I’m sure we’ll get over it, especially as the new place represents a much-needed redesign, including a central bar area that nicely breaks up the space, a balcony on the far side that provides depth, and plenty of seating options, including stools, sofas, booths and a long bar.

Wonder Bar is dimly lit and decked out in deep red and black with touches of mirror and chrome, hardly surprising since the designer is Roger Houng and he used a similar formula with the former and highly popular cocktail bar, First Cafe. While Wonder Bar doesn’t fully capture the feeling of First Cafe - it is, after all, a squarish one-floor bar in Tongli as opposed to a narrow two-floor stand-alone bar - patrons will find enough similarities, especially if Roger and partner Kang Da fulfill their goal of providing good seating, good jazz and good drinks.

Oddly, this holiday break seems to have a First Cafe theme:
- Roger is back and has former First Cafe bartender Daniel mixing drinks at Wonder Bar;
- I visited Q Bar several times, where ex-First Cafe bartenders George and Echo are co-owners;
- I attended a birthday party at Opener?, which Roger helped design and that ex-First Cafe manager Keiko helped to get going;
- I made several Buffalo wing runs to The Rickshaw, where yet another ex-First Cafe bartender works and which was formerly Midnight Bar, run by George and Echo;
- I visited Cafe Pause, in Dashanzi, co-owned by Stefan Fleischer, yet another person I first met at First Cafe.

For a city of 15 million, sometimes this place feels like a small town…

The all-male crowd seems to have abandoned Q Bar as its Thursday night watering hole. The place was lightly populated tonight (last night), which meant peace and quiet as I sipped my Horse Neck (Bourbon, ginger ale and lemon) and chatted with bartenders-owners George and Echo. The Q will add frozen dragon fruit margaritas to the menu tomorrow night (tonight), a drink Echo and I first made during my only foray behind the bar in Beijing, at a birthday party last year. They’ll go for 55 kuai.

I walked to Q from The Rickshaw, which opens tomorrow night (tonight). Patrons of the spot’s former bar, Midnight, are in for a surprise - co-owner Kris Ryan has stripped the place down, to the cement floor at some points, and replaced the unbearable heaviness of the sofas with light furniture and open space. With a pool table, several flat-panel TVs and a balcony that offers views up and down Sanlitun South, the place has a new vibe - an unpretentious spot that fits the BJ psyche.

In the pigeonhole game, The Rickshaw hints at The Den, The Goose and Duck, and, of course, COX and Saddle (same owners), with a splash of old Sanlitun South, though it quickly enough it’ll find its own identity. Qingdao draft is 15 kuai a pint (10 kuai during happy hour) and the kitchen will open soon, if not tomorrow night. Patrons now have a new spot to get COX-style wings and Saddle-style burritos, as well as mini pizzas, while avoiding Sanlitun North’s roving gangs of teenagers, beggars and substance sellers. That alone is reason enough for me to go; we’ll see if others feel the same. (For more on The Rickshaw, check out this interview of Kris.)

I dropped into The Rickshaw on my way home from Torres China’s tenth-anniversary celebration at the Ritz Carlton. The party was from 6 to 10 PM, and I managed to squeeze in at 9:52 PM - yep, it’s been one of those work weeks. That left enough time to chat with Torres North China GM Galia Stern (among the first people I met when I arrived in Beijing way back when), have a glass of wine, and meet Miguel Torres, who ranks among the world’s bigwigs of wine. Congratulations to Torres and good luck on the company’s anniversary party in Shanghai this weekend.

John Bull Pub has officially closed and will reopen as Tim’s Texas BBQ in late October. Sequoia Cafe next door remains open. / The show is over for Icehouse’s live blues experiment. The Wangfujing bar brought in Chicago musicians but not enough Beijing patrons and will soon split duties as home to the Courtyard Gallery and host of Chopschticks comedy nights, Beijing Cheese Society gatherings, wine tastings and weekend bands. / Speaking of double duty, Phil of Phil’s Pub not only owns a Beijing bar, but also manages Q Bar in Qingdao’s Shangri-La Hotel. Pay him a visit if you travel to our beer-loving sister city to the south. / Last Saturday night, 1:30 AM, Rui Fu: empty. I don’t mean just a few patrons, I mean zero. Last Saturday night, 1:45 AM, Maggie’s: busy. What does it mean? / Pipes (plural), known as a retreat for women who love women, now goes by Pipe (singular). If the new sign is any indication, Coors (singular or plural?) is the sponsor. My only visit to Pipe(s) was with M-Dawg last year and lasted an awkward ten minutes. / I visited The Press Club in the St. Regis Hotel twice this past month and found the staff pleasant and the cocktails above average - they should be at 70 kuai per martini. / Smallville, Shunyi’s newest spot, will open on October 21 with free cinnamon rolls, a silent auction of comic book posters, and the Instant Noodles jazz band (8046-5448; beside Yard Restaurant). This spot also boasts butter tarts, my kryptonite of foods, that substance to which I have no resistance. Midnight drew major cocktail-loving crowds before the management and bartenders fell out earlier this year. The bar is virtually empty these days, but hope springs eternal and a “pure-hearted invitation” posted in the window seeks a foreigner with bar experience and contacts with local social groups. / Over the last few successive issues, I have written about how my all-time favorite Beijing bar First Cafe went from closing to being chai’d to being site of a garden. The latest: The garden is gone and replaced by a pile of dirt fronted by a three-meter high fence. Is nothing sacred?

The lady bar touts and substance pushers seemed sparser on Sanlitun North the past few weeks. A recent stroll down the main drag attracted only six “sexy girl” solicitations, in contrast to the usual dozen, and not one “Hey man, want some stuff?” was muttered as I walked the side streets to Apertivo. Where hath the intrepid intruders gone? Perhaps they took advantage of the new Beijing-Tibet express and are on summer leave. Or maybe they were turfed by the notorious security guards at nearby Tongli Studio (true, no bodies have been found, but a telling sign would be if the area’s kebabs suddenly tasted gamey). Whatever the reason, any break from these — let’s be generous – carbon-based life forms is as refreshing as when strong winds occasionally dilute Beijing’s air pollution. Unfortunately, it’s usually just as short-lived. / Speaking of Apertivo, I’ve been there twice this month. The service is reasonable, it’s a nice place to chat with friends on a pleasant summer evening, and things would be even better with an upgraded by-the-glass wine selection. / Across the street, Saddle offers a minimalist menu of burritos, Spanish fried rice, salsa and chips, and fajitas as well as Pepe Lopez, Camino, Jose Cuervo, Olmeca and Conquistador tequilas. These brands cover the less-than-100-percent agave end of the tequila spectrum and some premium varieties would surely be welcomed. Saddle also has something called “Brett funnel” on Fridays, which involves chugging a beer via a tube for 10 kuai, and is not for the faint of stomach. / The Pavillion has a two-for-one happy hour, 5 to 8 PM, that covers house wines, cocktails, soft drinks, and beer, excluding Guinness and Kilkenny. In addition to an excellent patio, The Pavillion also has: 1) proper wine glasses; 2) one of Beijing’s more impressive Whisky selections; and 3) a slight identity crisis, since upon arrival patrons may come across anything from an alcohol-free graduation party to a beer-fueled rugby-mad crowd, with things thankfully tending toward the middle. / Maggie’s has upped its bottled Qingdao to 30 kuai from 20 kuai. Otherwise, it’s the same old, same old, which means hot dogs out front, reliable music inside, and an ambience that doesn’t live up to the former locale on Gongti East. / Shunyi-based sports bar The Pomegranate had a high-tech summer as it added a video projector, 42-inch flat screen, and wireless Internet access. My suburban friends tell me this is a good spot to sip a few beers, eat some pub grub, and catch a game. / DJ David Lindinger will spin all-plastic sets of “nujazz, groove and house music” at Q Bar on Fridays during September. This is a bit surprising since some owners were once strongly opposed to a DJ and since patrons seem to love the current ambience, which includes blues and jazz tunes. Q Bar seems to be drifting from the cocktail-first culture of First Cafe and Midnight, where two of the owners cut their teeth, and this will no doubt worry some long-loyal customers, including yours truly. I mean, this is like the city-specific that’s Beijing putting a huge brochure-like picture of Thailand on its cover (oh wait, it just did that, or do I have a copy of that’s Bangkok in my hand?). Or like me adding a dozen book reviews to my bar newsletter (oh wait again…). / Speaking of which, rumblings abound that Keiko Shirata, who owned First Cafe until it was chai’d about a month ago, is planning to open a new spot in Beijing. / Each of my four visits to Rui Fu has found this lounge/club increasingly busy and fun. My initial reservations have been cancelled by its spirited groove, interesting clientele and decent music (though a bit loud last time). The cocktails are a problem. As oft mentioned elsewhere, Rui Fu is a place to see and be seen, with last Friday featuring a marathon of seeing and being seen that left my ocular nerves exhausted and thus, having saw and been sawn, I resolved to wear an eye patch next time and thus maximize seeage and being seenage while minimizing strain (that is, when I return from my vacation at a coastal apiary - a sea and bee scene.) Putting preening aside, Rui Fu’s menu includes numerous pricing oddities such as Johnnie Walker Red and Johnnie Walker Black both at Y35, suggesting the latter will increase in price with the club’s popularity. Let’s wait and see (and be seen). / Capone’s plans to open a restaurant in Beijing. The general manager says his aim is to have “one of the biggest if not the biggest wine selections in Beijing.” / Also coming to the Jing: Hong Kong’s Park 97 and Middle-class America’s Hooters. / Finally, there are lots of choices out there for tonight, Friday, September 1. Frank’s Place will hold an end-of-summer party with all-you-can-drink Freixenet sparkling wine (7PM, 100 kuai) and its weekly pool tournament (8 PM, 50 kuai per person, winner takes all). Summergate will have a tasting of South Australia’s Kingston wines at Face Bar (7-10 PM, 100 kuai). Stone Boat has Muwen playing (9:30 PM), Q Bar sees its inaugural DJ night, and Rui Fu apparently has DJ Edmund, a friend of a friend from Taipei, spinning tunes.

(From Beijing Boyce XXIII, first emailed on August 31, 2006)

China Daily reports that Louisiana-themed The Big Easy will be chai’d on Sunday. Chaoyang Park authorities voided the bar’s 13-year lease, signed in 1998, in order to make space for a “peace plaza,” although they didn’t reveal whether this will be a government or commercial venture, states the newspaper. The creative layout, spirited music and Bloody Marys of The Big Easy will be missed. / Before losing its trio of capable bartenders earlier this year, Midnight packed in partiers and pumped out 50-kuai cocktails. Now, a signboard out front advertises 10-kuai drinks, including — and some might prefer this one with two paramedics, stomach pump and stretcher – Gin and Coke. / Browns, bursting at the seams last Saturday night, smartly anchored an ice-filled claw-footed bathtub of bottled beer just inside the door and thus siphoned off some of the thirsty patrons teeming at the bar. (Suggestion: Sell bottled water from the tub, too.) / Berber N, home of tasty kebabs before construction forced its closure on Sanlitun North earlier this year, has reopened across from Tongli Studios. Never have skewered chicken butts been more savory. / The last time I saw words such as “closed for maintenance work,” they were plastered on the door at First Cafe, which shortly thereafter pounded into coaster-size bits. That is, until Tuesday — and I hope it is coincidence — when I spotted them in neat longhand beside the entrance to Mojito, a fairly new place that has Beijing’s only draft Weihenstephaner. (Could a beer have a better name for the China market? The first half sounds delightfully Mandarin and the second evokes the Deutschland.) / Contrary to popular belief, Beijing does have table hockey, courtesy of W Sports Bar, where it is buried amid the ping pong table, dartboard, big-screen TV, pool table, art, grand piano, foosball table, etc. Is there anywhere else in town where you might simultaneously hear “Who’s serve?”, “bull’s eye!”, “I’ll have two beers, please”, “eight ball, corner pocket” and “this is simply too Dadaist for my taste,” all while someone chops out Mozart and a Formula 1 race shows? / Deep in Sanlitun South, a new bar is opening on the second floor of the building that Beer Mania calls home. With W Sports Bar, Q Bar and Yes Club nearby, a new party zone seems to be forming. / Speaking of Q Bar: one crane, four hours, and a dozen people. That’s about what it took to get a five-meter tree and some stone flower beds atop this bar’s increasingly green sixth-floor deck a few weeks ago. Fortunately, should the day come, it will only take a few seconds to get them back down. / With its latest Chicago blues act having returned stateside, Icehouse, the bar part of RBL, now features a mix of local and foreign talent in the form of the Rhythm Dogs (Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays). Meanwhile, the employee turnstile spins on as Chef Dan Segal, who joined RBL this year after working at the former Louisiana restaurant in the Hilton, has left for Hong Kong. / Stone Boat continues with its funky live music line-up. The next three Fridays feature Enfants Terribles (electro-jazz, August 11), Muwen (traditional instruments, August 18) and Hanggai (”Mongol roots,” August 25), while Panjir Trio plays Saturdays all month. / Speaking of which, shortly after announcing the readers’ choices for its recent bar and club awards, that’s Beijing (TBJ) published its “editor’s picks.” Top spot of the year honors went to Stone Boat (good ambience and music, though the drinks and service are spotty), with honorable mentions to Area (was it on the ballot?) and Club Football (known primarily for its soccer pitches) [Ed. The bar was in fact Redball]. Nothing against those places, but I don’t think collectively they had the impact of Browns. It exploded onto the bar scene this year, is busy beyond belief, appeals to most every age group, nationality and profession, influences and attracts as customers other bar owners and employees, offers decent food and a good draft beer selection, and, last but not least, won the readers’ vote. Love it or hate it, the place has made a mark. By the way, TBJ deserves kudos for organizing these awards. Cynics claim the magazine uses them to placate sponsors, but since each of the 20 categories has one winner and seven losers, more clients are likely to be upset than pleased. (And if you don’t believe it, then a band of TBJ staffers will roll up their gargantuan 250-page magazines and knock you about like a pinata. Or, maybe not.) / Fromage fans must be quick on the return key trigger when they get Beijing Cheese Society invites. Next week’s California-themed event at Palais sold out in a few hours. / Correction: Last issue, I wrote that 5:19 Bar and Grill was starting a darts league. In fact, it is one of the hosts of the Beijing International Darts League, which welcomes new teams and venues (email Chris “Elvis” Milward at commish@beijing-darts.com).

(From Beijing Boyce XXII, first emailed on August 12, 2006)

Jointly owned by popular bartenders George Zhou and Echo Sun and an investor, Q BAR had its soft opening on May 13 and will officially launch in June. With a spacious deck, it can hold over 100 people, and the dim lighting, snug couches and high ceilings make it comfortable and airy, though wall art is sorely needed. The big question is whether George and Echo can maintain a steady flow of the quality cocktails for which they are known, since even with a small crowd of 30 to 40, and with extra staff on hand, the martinis were slow in coming. Q Bar is on the roof of the Eastern Inn, across the street from W Sports Bar on Sanlitun South.

(From Beijing Boyce XVII, first emailed on May 27, 2006)

Razed. Chai’d. Bye bye’d. Beijing’s three-meter salute to drinking – the Sanlitun beer mug — was not only a dispenser of cigarettes, gum and beer, but also a reference point for locating dozens of bars. Now it’s gone, tossed on the dust heap of history in what is already a very dusty city. Not even a cement coaster remains. As always, change is in the air and Opening Shots covers eight bar scene developments.

ONE

Crisis at First Cafe: it was long my favorite bar but cocktail quality has slid quite a bit during the past year, though the ambience remains good. With the nearby beer mug gone, what does fate hold for this cozy watering hole, especially given that its sign has been turned off for nearly two weeks?

TWO

Meanwhile, ex-First Cafe, ex-Midnight bartenders George Zhou and Echo Sun nearly have Q Bar ready atop the Eastern Inn on Sanlitun South. The place will have dim lighting, cozy couches, and jazz and blues music, with the interior and deck much more spacious than what George and Echo have before handled. The wildcard is the cocktails — their claim to fame — and whether the (quality) martinis will smoothly flow should the place hit its peak capacity of over one hundred people.

(By the way, some wonder why I so regularly write about George and Echo. In short, they epitomize everything about opportunity in China. A couple of years ago, they were out-of-town novice bartenders, learning their craft and making little money. They worked hard, built up their mixing skills, bar knowledge and a loyal following, and now have their own place. To me, that is a compelling story.)

Q Bar will fully open in early June…

THREE

… as will TRIO, with a soft opening on Friday (May 12). Near the Rosedale Park, Japanese School and Si-de Park, TRIO has a piano bar and a New York-style grill on the top floor, the new Frank’s Place at ground level, and The Cellar in the, uh, cellar. This is a major project and the big question is whether it can stick in an area that is not exactly known for nightlife. The Cellar itself is unique in Beijing with its wrought iron doors, stucco walls, arch ceiling, earthy feel and focus on wine. There will be a Club 88, with an 8888 kuai initial investment and 3888 kuai annual fee, where members receive free wine dinners and cooking classes, discounts on wine, and a 32-bottle onsite storage space (lock and key included). The top floor grill, complete with baby grand piano, seats 50, while Frank’s Place holds 110 and has a pool table, a bar, eight TVs and outdoor seating in front and back. (Thanks to investor Roger Dutton for the tour.)

FOUR

Speaking of outdoors, The Pavillion now has a most pleasant patio. Comfy wicker chairs, lush grass, serene trees — a nice spot for a few pints or bottle of wine. (The cocktails are okay, though one Mojito came with uncrushed mint and the Long Island had too much Coke. Word has it that the food has greatly improved with ex-Aria chef Richard Millar now on hand.) This seems to be the Year of Outdoor Seating. There are newcomers, such as Frank’s Place, Le Petit Gourmand, 5:19, Cafe Pause, The Pomegranate and The Bookworm (though the nearby construction is annoying); old-timers, ranging from Bar Blu, Stone Boat and Le Quai to numerous Houhai spots; and more decks, patios and rooftops coming, such as at Blue Fox.

FIVE

Glenn, we hardly knew you! My suspicions about tensions between the owners and staff at Browns turned into reality as Glenn Phelan, who joined Browns when he left Pavillion after a three-month stint, resigned as floor manager (the DJ soon followed and there may be more fallout). Look for Glenn to have his own spot in a few months. Meanwhile, investor Philip Cheung says that Browns’ Russian sidebar will open next month and that ladies’ night, on Wednesdays, will be extended from 2 AM to 3 AM (the free drinks have been cut back to a select list of cocktails). As expected, Guinness and Kilkenny prices have risen to 40 kuai, from 35 kuai, which begs the question: when will they go up again?

SIX

Efforts to duplicate the Centro phenomenon continue with one high-end hotel recently launching Champagne and another expected to open a bar this summer. Palms threw its hat into the ring about six months ago, though it was quickly tossed back. Champagne might want to resist describing itself, in its adverts, as “fast becoming the hottest place in the city for Beijing’s social elite,” because if one of my visits was any indication, those elites number less than a dozen. It would be much more useful to study Centro‘s excellence in effectively welding great location with calculated and sustained marketing.

SEVEN

I recently wrote that Beijing’s cocktail scene was stumbling down the proverbial stairs. In hindsight, it might have been a case of “one step backward, two steps forward.” Q Bar is about to open, Garden of Delights serves up excellent Mojitos, Centro has upgraded its cocktail list, master mixer Marc van Bever has returned to Beer Mania (luckily that cast is on his ankle, not on his wrist), Jackie at Browns is sharpening his skills (Agent Red Wolf gave the Mojito a thumb up), Modern Nomads has those Chinggis vodka Martinis, and so on. Things do seem to be looking brighter.

(From Beijing Boyce XVI, first emailed on May 11, 2006)

Ex-First Cafe, ex-Midnight bartenders George Zhou and Echo Sun will launch Q Bar on Sanlitun North, near Beer Mania, with the soft opening due in early May. Backed by foreign investors, Q Bar will focus on — no surprise — cocktails and have outdoor seating. / Based on a dozen pass-bys, Midnight has seen a huge drop in business since losing its bartenders a month ago in a debacle that, on one hand, has been a lose-lose-lose situation for the owners, staff and customers, and on the other hand, business as usual in Beijing. / Meanwhile, First Cafe, my favorite bar from late 2004 to summer 2005, has gone from being the city’s best-kept secret to an overpriced drinking hole. The cozy ambience no longer compensates for the anemic Bloody Mary (40 kuai) and passable Gin and Tonic (50 kuai), unless one has an excess of money and a dearth of taste. If you go, eschew the cocktails for beer and shots. / Speaking of which, the cost of a Gin and Tonic, using Bombay Sapphire, at four places last Saturday night: Phil’s Pub, 20; icehouse, 40; First Cafe, 50; Champagne, 55.2 (yes, they actually charge miao). Phil’s offers great value; icehouse and Champagne feature bands (the former’s is particularly good), and First Cafe has some atmosphere and, uh, a sit-down toilet. / Mint shortage! Pavillion was out two weeks ago, Champagne and icehouse last Saturday, and Mexican Wave last Sunday, the latter denying Agent Red Wolf a taste of its Mojito just hours before she finalized her top-five list (see below). Is this a niche market for an herb entrepreneur or do bars simply find the Mojito too time-consuming to make? / ASC Fine Wines is celebrating its tenth anniversary. It’s been a decade for Don St. Pierre, Sr. and crew, and they are the team to beat when it comes to wine distribution in China . See Closing Shots for their celebratory wine and Riedel glass special. / The Big Easy is on the chai-ing block and April looks to be its last stand. Catch a final Bloody Mary on the veranda at one of Beijing ’s landmark bars. / From Margaritas to Martinis, drinks are free for the ladies at Browns after 9 PM on Wednesdays. The downside: the gentlemen sometimes find their orders — those would be the drinks on which the bar MAKES money — backlogged behind 20 cocktails, even for something as simple as Whisky shots. / The Timeout readers’ party last Thursday at icehouse was packed and the band was rocking. The place was also hopping last Saturday night. That long hallway is still creepy and reminds me of “The Cask of Amontillado” (BYOT — Bring Your Own Trowel). / A Molinari Sambuca launch party was held in Beijing last Thursday at the ” European-style Conference Center ” in Chaoyang Park (thanks to SF for the invite). I found the cocktails either too sweet or too light, and instead took my Sambuca straight, which helped numb me toward the painfully bad presentation and foreign poseurs. Listening to three (translated) speeches was bearable, but pity the (Italian?) reps brought on stage some five times over ninety minutes, with almost everyone oblivious to them. And the following words, unless uttered for amusement purposes, should never start a speech at an alcohol launch: “In the course of human development…” By the way, these foreigners with weird glasses (i.e. primary blue with gold sparkles) and/or un-tucked designer dress shirts and/or the hair that’s supposed to look stylish but is more reminiscent of a bad mousse day and/or the “I’m a socialite in China, even though I’d be lucky to be runner up back home in a KFC assistant manager hiring campaign” attitude — where do they rent them? Uh oh, stop me, stop me… uh oh… I’m going… into… oh, no… day… dream… mode…

[I’m beside a guy wearing black heavy-rimmed glasses with mother-of-pearl inlay. His head is weighed down with mousse; he wears a neatly un-tucked dress shirt. When I first spoke to him, he gave me a look that said: “I’m in a charitable mood, so I will allow you to humor me.” We have just exchanged “pleasantries.”]

Me: “So, what do you do in Beijing ?” [Yes, that’s a terrible question.]

Him: “What DON’T I do? Let’s just say that I’m in consulting.”

“Are you in any particular field?”

“Actually, I’m talented in numerous areas, but I guess if I had to pick one, I’d say communications.”

“That sounds, uh, extremely difficult.”

[My rapt attention has warmed him up. He re-untucks his shirt and continues.]

“Yes, it’s quite hard. I spend a lot of time on research, academic stuff, with a focus on a younger demographic. I’d hazard to call it leading edge, you know?”

[I nod, faux awe radiating outwards.]

“It’s very proactive. I get a chance to learn about them, they get a chance to learn about me; it’s the cross-cultural exchange I find so rewarding.”

“Hang on! You wouldn’t be consulting in ‘education,’ would you?”

“Uh, as I said, I think my field is best described as communications…”

“Hey, are you teaching English to kids!?”

With this, my “speaking partner,” as they say in his field, suddenly needs to refresh his drink.

This exchange is an exaggeration, of course, but there are a lot of poseurs out there. I recommend that expatriates ask themselves at least once a month: if I suddenly had to return home, what kind of job could I get? For the vast majority of us, the answer is humbling. [By the way, I’m not criticizing English teachers, as many are hardworking and dedicated, and many of the most successful people I know were English teachers at one time, so please save the hate e-mail, even though it would probably have fewer spelling mistakes than most of the stuff I get. Actually, I don’t even want to criticize poseurs, either. Please DON’T start tucking in your shirts! Enjoy it while it lasts, and remember, this was all just a daydream. Now, back to opening shots…]

The Pavillion has moved its furniture about, printed new menus, and dropped the price on drinks, or at least on Long Islands . When I visited two weeks ago, the proprietor Russell Probert kindly treated me to a beer and said work was about to begin out back, where a Mediterranean restaurant will be added and landscaping done. / Le Petit Gourmand’s new sundeck is, by all reports, very cozy. Since my “live bug falling out of Parmesan can and onto pizza” incident earlier this year, I’ve only been back once and stuck to the high-value lattes — big mug, 15 kuai. / I went to Saddle and ordered the large burrito (50 kuai; didn’t the same size used to be 35 kuai?). The waitress leaned against the counter, loudly chewed her gum (mouth wide open) and cow-stared as I ate my meal. Not comfortable. The music, which included John Cougar and Ram Jam, was good. / Last week, I reported that Trio will soon open across from the Lido Hotel. It’s actually the Rosedale Hotel. / Cafe Pause will apparently change its menu — again. The blue cheese and spinach dumplings with pesto sauce were fantastic, everyone loved them, and I was annoyed they were no longer available when I recently hiked all the way to Dashanzi. Consistency, especially with the good things in life (like blue cheese dumplings), is a virtue. / I really enjoy the unpretentious patrons and atmosphere at Modern Nomads. Simply put, it’s a fun to place to kick back for an hour, sip a Mongolian vodka martini and watch live throat singing and pop music.

(From Beijing Boyce XIV, first emailed on April 6, 2006)

Popular bartenders George Zhou and Echo Sun left Midnight bar two weeks ago, following a run-in with management, about six months after they left First Cafe, following a run-in with management. It’s a serious situation for those who enjoy quality cocktails. Echo continues to manage Cafe Pause in the 798 art district, while George is doing consulting. Their next moves are eagerly awaited. / Dawn breaks after even the darkest midnight and new bartender Alex at 10-kuai Qingdao joint Phil’s is a ray of sunshine. He can mix up a tasty Mojito, Bloody Mary and Long Island, the latter coming with a splash of Grand Marnier and impressing finicky Agent Red Wolf. Alex is usually (no guarantees) behind the bar on Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday nights, the latter best avoided given the rowdy all-you-can-drink-Qingdao-for-30-kuai crowd). / Cajun cooking and wasabi together at last? Chef Dan Segall, whose photo is a mainstay in Beijing’s English-language magazines, has left Hilton Hotel’s Louisiana Restaurant and next month will join the Japanese-focused kitchen at RBL. / John Bull Pub is holding “entry-level” wine tasting on some Fridays (6 to 8 PM), with takeaway bottles at 80 kuai or less. Chilean, Australian and Chinese wines have been featured. Call 6532-5905 for details. / This could be the year of outdoor eating, drinking and reading in Beijing. Owner Alex Pearson gave me a tour of Bookworm’s new rooftop garden, which has a flagstone path, seats 48, and should be open by today. (By the way, given how loud and crowded the Bookworm is at times, how long before someone–Alex herself?–opens a similar spot elsewhere?). Alongside favorites such as Bar Blu, Steak and Eggs, Stone Boat and numerous Hou Hai spots, Bookworm joins newcomers Le Petit Gourmand, Frank’s Place, 5:19, Pomegranate, Browns, Pavillion and others in the great outdoors seating competition. / Pavilion will add an extension in order to add a Mediterranean restaurant. Richard Xavia (ex-RBL) and Richard Mills (ex-Aria) are consulting. On one hand, the shift is understandable as about-to-open Frank’s Place will siphon some of Pavillion’s sports-loving patrons (Frank’s Place investor Roger Dutton and Pavillion proprietor Russell Probert were once co-owners of the old Frank’s Place). On the other, this smacks of yet another attempt to bring Shanghai not only to Beijing (see RBL), but also to an establishment that already lacks focus and staff training (example: the numerous occasions when no employees on hand were able to work the TVs). / As for Dutton, he says Trio, which will house a New York-style grill, the new Frank’s Place and the wine-centric The Cellar, should be open by early May. Nicole Pang has been hired as part of the PR and marketing team. / No frowns at Browns as the large empty space meant for tequila and Whisky rooms has instead been quickly finished to handle overflow from the main area. The place was packed to the gills on St. Patrick’s Day. My biggest gripe after a dozen visits: the music. My advice: forget the muddled DJ sets and instead put in a “Funky 80s Hits” CD, hit random play and let people have fun. (For more on Browns, see We Got Mail.) / Wine whiz Ethan Perk writes that the new Schindler’s, on the old Riverside Cafe site, is hopping, even on a Tuesday night at 6:30: “They were packed, not a seat in the house.” / Shunyi is starting to blossom. An upcoming that’s Beijing map lists more than 100 shops, restaurants and bars in the district. While Shunyi is still a bit light in the latter two categories, Palette Vino, Jenny Lou’s and Pomegranate are leading the way, and the first fixed location for caterer Harry’s Kitchen is apparently set to open. / Sequoia Cafe has a tasty 30-kuai chicken pita and salad combo at lunch. The place delivers, but if you order by fax, follow-up by phone, as the machine is sometimes off. / Finally, if an afternoon spent listening to 1950s German folk songs sounds like fun, try Cafe Pause in Dashanzi. You can slowly go mad while using the free wireless.

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

Ex-First Cafe, ex-Midnight bartending buffs George (GZ) and Echo (EC) are now free at nights to indulge in the intoxicating concoctions they customarily create for others, so we met at my pad last Saturday for creative cocktail-making with three people who have helped this e-newsletter - Agent Red Wolf, M-Dawg and Pony.

Eat before drink, I always say, so we started with M-Dawg and Pony’s Waldorf-style salad, Red Wolf’s famous three-cup chicken, and my BB pasta, accompanied by Catai Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. This is a decent and affordable local wine made by an Italian-Chinese venture, distributed by Summergate, recommended to me by several people, and sold at 48 kuai a bottle by, among others, Jenny Lou’s (last Saturday it was buy two, get one free; thanks to Summergate’s Linda for her help).

Our light repast complete, EC got the martinis started by mixing Stolichnaya vodka, hot chili pepper brine, and the body (including the seeds) of one pepper, which was pleasantly translucent as a garnish. This drink begat grimaces and coughing fits from M-Dawg and Red Wolf, an “okay” from Pony and GZ, and a big thumb ups from EC and me. We tried two derivatives: one with a splash of tequila and a second with both tequila and three drops of Tobasco. These were tasty all. (Note: M-Dawg suggested the name, “Acid Reflux.”)

GZ then got busy with: a grape Cosmopolitan, which had a strong citrus nose, but taste identity issues (is it grape, is it orange, is it groinge?); a lychee liqueur, Taiwan peach schnapps and vodka mix M-Dawg called “The Monkey King,” though he noted it lacked a banana garnish (I respected the integrity of its name by sweetening it up with maple syrup, which comes from trees, where monkeys spend most of their time); and a dependable lychee liqueur, grape juice and vodka.

Next, we turned to fun garnishes. The first martini, by EC, had three shots of vodka and three blue cheese-stuffed olives. It tasted like a plain old dry martini, so EC tried to marry the brie and alcohol, with cloudy and chunky results (pass). (Meanwhile, GZ made a “Maple Collins,” which included lemon, soda, gin and maple syrup. This was extremely refreshing and was immediately added to my list of drinks to sip while relaxing in a hammock on a hot, sunny day.)

I jumped into the fray with a martini garnished with sun-dried tomato and an anchovy. “It’s got a little oil slick on top,” said M-Dawg. “It smells like fish,” said EC and Pony. Visual and olfactory factors aside, this drink initially tasted like a dry martini and then slowly, and unfortunately, absorbed the anchovy flavor. I made a martini with three smoked salmon-stuffed olives, with similar results.

Unbeknownst to me at the time, Red Wolf scribbled in my notes: “Good Lord, why hath thou forsaken me? When will these people leave me in peace?” (Uh, did I miss something while I was in the bathroom?), followed by, “11:37 PM, seven-pepper martini invented.” That drink was mine and was a powerful concoction, reminiscent of that Szechuan dish with popcorn-sized bites of chicken hidden among hundreds of red chili peppers.

(Note: At this point, Agent Red Wolf did some multi-tasking, both fixing my fridge, which had mysteriously risen to 13 degrees from 5, and making a seven-pepper Bloody Mary described by Pony as “like an old spicy hot pot.”)

We were now in the home stretch, our final cocktail containing vodka, three drops of Canadian Club, grape juice, Thai lime juice and maple syrup. I dubbed it “George 318” and we all collapsed on the sofas. A long trail of glasses, ice and squeezed lemons lay behind as, exhausted, we looked out past Worker’s Stadium at Beijing’s skyline. After a 30-minute breather, we decided one more concoction was in order. With that, Agent Red Wolf raided my fridge, gathered up the produce and made some hearty vegetable soup.

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

Browns bolted onto the bar scene with an all-night two-for-one party and Beijing may never be the same. What makes this place special and can it and other bars targeting expatriate dollars survive? See below. / China passed the Entertainment Venues Management Regulations. Apparently, it does not cover bars and Internet cafes, but then again, as one investor writes: “This is some dire news for Beijing nightlife…. The new rule is that all Beijing KTVs, discos and the like must close at 2 AM. Bars were not expressly mentioned by name, but the inference is that they’re included.” More details to come. / Midnight bartenders George and Echo, and I, came up with a raspberry, blackberry and cherry martini, with a lemon zing. Not bad. If you’re thirsting for a fruity drink with a solid kick, try their GE (that’s “G” for George and “E” for Echo) - lychee liqueur, grapefruit juice, 151 rum and grenadine. / Tonight (February 24), John Bull Pub will hold a free tasting of wines from Taillan, a nine-year-old Sino-French venture just outside Beijing. Taillan’s Alain Leroux will be on hand to guide tasters and handle bottle sales. Call 13301-377-336 or email frank_siegel@hotmail.com for details. / Speaking of which, red wine should not be near ice cold, so why does it sometimes come that way even at reputable places, such as Centro and Pavillion? / Beers recently spotted at Jenny Lou’s on Sanlitun North: JW Dundee’s Honey Brown Lager (Rochester, New York) - 12.6 kuai; Beer Royal (Italy) - 13.6 kuai; Green King Indian Pale Ale (UK) - 12.6 kuai; and “beer with vitamins” Los Labos (US) - 10.6 kuai. / Also spotted at Jenny Lou’s: European Chamber of Commerce Head Giorgio Magistrelli. For all you pasta lovers out there, Giorgio hails from Italy and a peek in his cart shows his preferred brand is De Cecco. / Food establishment name of the week: “Beard Papa’s Pipin’ Hot Cream Puffs” (Oriental Plaza). / A look ahead: the next issue will include a rundown on Shanghai bars and a report on six different Chinese wines.

(From Beijing Boyce XI, first emailed on February 23, 2006)

Browns offers two-for-one drinks tonight (February 10). This is a chance to check out (cheaply) what may well become one of Beijing’s best bars. I’ll be there around 8:30 and would love to meet people who get this newsletter (look for me in the gold jacket). Browns’ Glenn Phelan writes, “It’s all night long. It only excludes full bottles of spirits, wines and Champagne,” and adds, “I have got a funky DJ so it should be a good gig.” Two Guinness for 35 kuai: that’s the “good gig”! (Note: Browns, which is pretty much a knock-off of the very popular Carnegie’s in Taipei, is on Sanlitun South, 50 meters from The Bookworm and above The Loft). / After a nearly two-month hiatus, icehouse will reopen on February 13, with Melvin Taylor and the Slack Band providing the blues. A recent ad described RBL, of which icehouse is a part, as “a distinctive modern life-style concept with a unique combination of a Restaurant, Bar and Lounge under one roof.” Yes, yes, but can they make a martini? Another ad, in Beijing Talk, shows pictures of superstars with whom band member Felton Crews has played: Buddy Guy, Bruce Springsteen, Miles Davis and (bizarrely) “Fresh Whole Tuna” (yes, it’s a picture of sushi). / CD Jazz Club will be without live music for a month or so, apparently due to nearby subway construction, and that means Ah-Q fans must get their fix elsewhere. You can reach the club at 6506-8288. (Thanks to Matt R for the tip.) By the way, I hear CD’s pasta is excellent. / I’ve written numerous times that Midnight has excellent drinks, but that the owner’s omnipresent cronies can be off-putting. An inside source tells me the bar is going through what might be called “human resource adjustments” and will soon be “crony-free.” (A shakeup was inevitable between the quality-loving bartenders and the owner and the former seem to have won out.) Expect some changes to the bar’s layout as well. / According to that’s Beijing, Pass By Bar will soon open Pass By Restaurant and serve tapas. / Richard Xavia, former manager of RBL (which includes Icehouse), is consulting for The Pavillion, while the aforementioned Glenn Phelan, brought in from Ireland a few months ago to manage Pavillion, has jumped to Browns. / Last issue, I wrote that the land on which Midnight, Browns, Bookworm, First Cafe, Pink Loft and others sit was apparently sold. Update: it was apparently the nearby plot behind Pacific Century, with bidding starting at 250 million and ending at 500 million (thanks to Eric H for the info). / Valentine’s Day is a marketer’s wet dream and a cynic’s dry heave. Instead of blowing your cash on some over-priced lovers’ package at a hotel, restaurant or bar, why not but some candles and wine (a nice Fleischer from Palette Vino would be nice) and do it yourself at home? As for food, nothing says love like a few slices of Buona pepperoni pizza.

(From Beijing Boyce X, first emailed on February 10, 2006)
### Pizza Buona The Pavillion Midnight Browns Icehouse Pass By Bar CD Jazz Club

Is it just me or is Sanlitun South Street going through a renaissance? The past six months have seen Midnight, Browns (see review below) and The Bookworm open, all good places and nice complements to decent longer-established spots, such as First Cafe and The Pink Loft. A reader calls it a “golden age” for the area, especially as the beggars, fake-CD sellers and “lady bar” touts are conspicuously absent. Enjoy it while it lasts, my friends. / Speaking of which, that entire plot of land, which encompasses the aforementioned spots as well as places such as Banana Leaf and The Loft has apparently just been bought. What does fate hold? ~ Henry Li, the brains behind the now-defunct Vogue and Neo Lounge, as well as Public Space in Sanlitun, will open a new spot at February’s end. He said the 800-square-meter will be named after Duan Qirui, an early twentieth-century premier and warlord, on Pingan Avenue, four blocks west of Poly Plaza. ~ Mike W. reports that the Red Capital empire’s - comprising the Red Capital Club, Red Capital Guest House and Red Capital Ranch - has grown by hiring a new GM (from Indonesia) and floor manager (from Britain). Expect a full write-up next issue about Red Capital’s most interesting bomb shelter bar (and its “Lin Biao’s Crash” cocktail). / One year in and the Beijing Cheese Society, co-founded by Sharon Ruwart and Perri Dong, has matured into a most excellent club. With events featuring Spanish, South African, British, American and French cheeses under its belt, the society now fills its 50-seat events within two hours of sending out invites. Join the events list by emailing sruwart@gmail.com. / Speaking of which, Perri, formerly known as that’s Beijing’s Cai Guy, is now working for ASC Fine Wines. / Yvonne C passes on info that Le Palais Desserts and Lounge (www.lepalais.cn) has opened close to the Kerry Centre and has excellent sweets prepared by a Belgian pastry chef. / Phil, of Phil’s Pub fame, is opening a bar in Qingdao. I suspect the main reason is to be closer to his beer source. / Last issue, I mentioned that IKEA is moving. Reader Eric H reports that the new store will open in Wangjing in April and will be IKEA’s largest store in Asia Pacific and second largest worldwide. / I’m hearing good things about Saddle, across from Apertivo, whether the place is filling up for NFL playoff games or doling out breakfast burritos. It’s a snug spot. / The Pomegranate, in Shunyi, has an e-newsletter covering its televised sports schedule, weekly quiz and directions on finding the bar. Email the_pomegranate@yahoo.com with “subscribe” in the subject line. / Based on my careful observations of the past six months, about half of the men in Beijing bars do not wash their hands after using the toilet. Be careful with whom you share those complimentary peanuts.

(From Beijing Boyce IX, first emailed on January 26, 2006)

Check out the Sunday buffet breakfast at The Pavillion: sausages, ham, baked beans, bread, fried potatoes, baked tomatoes, fruit and cereal; omelets made on the spot; coffee and tea (RMB68). It’s simple, hearty fare to enjoy while gazing upon the woods out back. Kudos to The Pavilion for installing a brass foot rail and coat hooks beneath the bar. ~ John Bull Pub now has Strongbow draft cider (RMB49 / pint) and Shanghai beer (RMB25 / pint) on tap. ~ Icehouse has “let go” its general manager. I doubt you can blame the problems there on one guy. Prime example: Icehouse is a blues bar, but first hired an Australian rock band and then Matt Roberts’ local jazz outfit. Who (and this goes beyond - and specifically above - the ex-GM) with any knowledge of music or Beijing nightlife doesn’t know that a) rock is not blues, b) Roberts specializes in jazz, and c) jazz is also not blues? Icehouse has done right by attracting events by Beijing Cheese Society and Chopschticks, and seems to have good marketers, since YPHH will hold an event there next week and describes the place as having “live entertainment from international [sic] acclaimed artist [sic]” (really? Who would those artists be?). Rumor has it that Icehouse will shut down for a month. If so, let’s see what they come up with next. ~ Stefan Fleisher (Palette Wines big wig) and Johannes Neubacher (Timeout magazine bigwig) have opened Cafe Pause in Dashanzi, with a focus on Mediterranean cuisine, Spanish tapes, German, Austrian and other wines, and some fusion dishes. “A good example is our trademark Jiaozi, a cooking concept that you not only find in China and Italy, but also in Russia, Germany and a number of other places,” says Stefan. ~ Midnight bar is off to a strong start, but here’s a thought: what are the odds the owners will decide they can do it all by themselves and force out the dynamic bartending duo of George and Echo, the ex-First Cafe bartenders who help bring in the business? (Yes, we’ve heard rumors.) By the way, the hot buttered rum at Midnight is a nice warmer-upper.

(From Beijing Boyce VI, first emailed on December 14, 2005)

When Midnight opened several months ago staffed with two of Beijing’s best bartenders, George and Echo, I wrote that the place was too big and the drinks would eventually suffer. Call me Kreskin: last Friday night I had an uncharacteristically bad martini as the bartenders were too rushed to make it properly (it had those “notes of gasoline” so typical of other establishment’s drinks). Even worse, the omnipresent cronies / relatives of the landlord / owner make the drinks when George and Echo are away. Such is the case now as a friend just sent an SMS, obviously written in a fit of a frustration: “the place is nuthin without the drinks.” Midnight is still the best bet for quality cocktails, but given current trends, I fear the situation is more likely to get worse than better.

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

New Year’s Eve shenanigans started at an all-you-can-eat-and-drink Japanese restaurant before moving to Alfa, where the mood was effervescent, with flowing drinks, energetic pop music and lithesome dancers. At twelve, the staff sprayed snow foam everywhere, including into my martini, but unfortunately the Christmas was over and no free drink was in the offering. Nice. Also, while it is fun to watch the staff clear the sofas and tables lickety-split so as to enlarge the dance space, it’s best to avoid ramming said furniture into the patrons. Afterward, I stopped at Midnight (it only seemed natural on New Year’s Eve), where people remained festive until the wee hours. Martinis, whiskey and bitters, Champagne cocktails - they all made for a smooth entrance into 2005 (and our stomachs), thanks to the capable bartending triumvirate of Echo, George and Austin.

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

I made my first visit - post-breakup era - to First Cafe and Midnight. For those who don’t know the story (and Buddha knows most people on this list are sick of it), First Cafe once offered an unbeatable combination of cozy ambience, superb cocktails and interesting clientele. Then two months ago, the owner Keiko and the only two bartenders, George and Echo, fell out. About a month later, George and Echo, believing droves of customers would remain loyal to them, opened a bar called Midnight less than a meter in front of First Cafe.

I’ve walked by these bars dozens of times during the past month on my way to and from The Bookworm. Based on window gazing, First Cafe has been doing fine, but patrons at Midnight are few and far between. However, such observations do not research make, so in the interests of accuracy, I embarked on a two-night project with a comrade, known only as Agent Red Wolf.

Night 1 (Friday): We slid into First Cafe around, of all ironic times, midnight. Red Wolf made a surreptitious visit next door to the bar of same name and learned that it was nearly empty. Meanwhile, First Cafe is bursting at the seams with over 30 guests. Spirits were high and spirits were flowing, the service was passable, and business seems to have gone unabated at First Cafe.

Night 2 (Saturday): We popped into Midnight around 1 AM. Again, Agent Red Wolf again went on the prowl and soon reported that First Cafe was quite busy, while there were but four patrons - including us - in Midnight. The martinis were excellent and we got to try George and Echo’s coffee vodka, but unfortunately the ambiance was wanting.

Just to ensure the accuracy of my observations even further, I made a few more trips back. First Cafe continues to do well, while Midnight has quickly been picking up steam, no doubt fuelled by ample coverage in the free English-language magazines. We’ll just have to wait and see what happens but given the dearth of decent bars in Beijing, both places may end up doing pretty well.

(From Beijing Boyce IV, first emailed on November 18, 2005)

Four times, I went to Phil’s Pub last month. Four times, I enjoyed it. For a great neighborhood feel, go to this spot near the southernmost end of Sanlitun South. / Thanks to Martin, Shayne and Karen for passing on my newsletter. / Channel V just showed Wham!’s Wake Me Up Before You Go Go. Is it just me or did George Michael and Princess Diana have the same hairdresser? And wouldn’t it be fair to say that Ricky Martin was the George Michael of his generation? / My co-worker Kate treated me to lunch at Riverside Cafe to celebrate my first year in Beijing. What a pleasant spot, with a lounge, dining area and good selection of wines on sale. We had the daily special — a tasty steak that I decided would be better marinated in Guinness (I accomplished this by pouring two pints of this most excellent brew down my throat). The visit’s highlight: finding 16-ounce wine glasses at RMB20 per piece, which I used for my Schandlicious party. Excellent value! / I attended the oriented.com event at Bodhi’s Terrace, across from Outback Steakhouse. The spa inside was pretty fancy, for all you massage maniacs. / The next Chopschticks is 7:30 PM, November 19, at Icehouse, with comedians Al Lubel (Letterman, The Tonight Show, even back when Johnny Carson was host: “Al’s so old school he’s new skule, peoples!” writes organizer Rich Robinson) and Joe DeRosa (Late Night with Carson Daly, Comedy Central). Tickets: 250RMB at the door; 220RMB before November 17. Email Tickets@TheComedyTour.com. (I’ve been to two shows so far and they’re good, clean – well, maybe that’s the wrong word – fun.) / Monday, October 31, 2005: Remember that as the day HBO put on consecutive movies so horrendous that the universe almost imploded. Catwoman was a farce, but at least was somewhat Halloween-esque. But to follow that up with – IRON EAGLE! This movie ranks among the