While Maison Boulud receives a good deal of praise as a restaurant, I have spent far more time in its bar. Ever since I tried the spicy Project 23 and refreshing Kentucky Iced Tea just over two years ago, I have enjoyed this place for its blend of history (it once served as the U.S. Embassy), ambiance (subdued and refined if a bit stale), service (generally good), and extras (you typically get a treat with your drink). The Legation Quarter is a trek but some nights I get in the mood to take a breather, “go tourist”, and drive past Tiananmen Square and other lit landmarks at night before retreating into the Legation Quarter to nurse a drink or two.

I recently visited to have lunch and meet new Maison Boulud GM Nicolas Socquet. I finally tried the burger, rich with foie gras, and truffles, and will be back for another soon. As for the drinks, I tried one of Boulud’s newest concoctions, a twist on the Manhattan: it includes 60 ml of Blanton’s Bourbon infused with figs, vanilla, and cinnamon, and 30 ml of Martini Rosso. The drink is pricey at RMB88 plus the dratted 15 percent service charge but that is a big pour and it’ll take the chill off. Even better, there is a buy two, get one free deal right now. (Print the coupon below and take it with you.)

By the way, I’ll also soon have a long overdue post on some tasty cocktails I had at The Fairmont.

For now, some more new cocktails from Maison Boulud:

• Beijing Derby: Includes Bourbon, Champagne, and fresh fig; RMB98
• Pear Side Car: Includes Xinjiang pear, Remy Martin Cognac, and fresh lime juice; RMB88
• Fa Guo Qi Shi Wu: Includes Remy Martin Cognac, Champagne, fresh lime, and sugar; RMB88

In this edition of the Top Five Watering Holes Series, gal-about-town Jennifer Ying Lan not only lists her favorite spots to get a drink, but also writes her own introduction. Here it is…

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“Jennifer Ying Lan, a native Texan, just can’t get enough of Beijing in the summertime. After graduating from Harrrrvard, she followed the flock and found herself on Wall Street at an illustrious 100+ year old investment bank that couldn’t stop buying sub-prime mortgages.

“After a couple years of 80+ hour work weeks, she landed in Beijing, where she blogged for the Beijinger, wrote for Agenda magazine, and sent out the notorious ‘7 Days in Beijing‘ newsletter before returning to graduate school (like a good little Chinese-American girl). Currently completing a dual-degree JD/MBA student at Duke University, she is a summer associate at a swanky international law firm in Beijing and is back for the nineteenth time. Find her at these places.

“5. Aperitivo: Open-air wine bar located right behind the Sanlitun strip. With plenty of outdoor seating and a great location, never sit inside or you’ll miss all the action. Watch the line of people at the crazy-busy jianbing cart and the idiotic drivers in way-too-nice cars as they try to make their way down a jam-packed street filled with people, kids selling roses, and knick-knacks of every kind. By far one of the best people-watching places in town…

“4. Fubar: If you’re one of the very few expats in town who hasn’t been yet, all I’m going to say is: secret door, hot dogs, and 1 RMB mojito nights. (Plus, one of the co-owners is the leading international construction lawyer in the world and as a future lawyer who wants to/will own a restaurant/bar in the future… that’s awesome).

“3. The Saddle Cantina: Come here for the ‘Mexican’ food, a rainbow of margaritas, and rooftop seating. If you’re lucky, some poor soul will sit in the saddle and be force-fed tequila like a foie-gras duck. PS: I adore Luga (the little man) so his place and this one are a bit interchangeable for me.

“2. No Name Bar: The first bar back then at Houhai and it’s still holding strong. Sit by the window at night, light a candle, look out over the lake, feel the breeze, and watch the people stroll by. Unless your fellow patrons are from Jersey, you should be able to have a pretty peaceful and perhaps romantic evening.

“1. Maison Boulud: Hands down, the classiest place in town. Located inside the former American embassy at the Legation Quarter, you feel the history as soon as you walk in the door. Rumor has it, this is where Henry Kissinger met with Zhou Enlai on his secret trip to the Middle Kingdom before Richard Nixon came and the West saw China. Ask to see the “Red Room” where the meeting took place. The decor is old school European meets a modern interior designer. Have the gorgeous and ultra-sophisticated Ignace [Lecleir] make you a cocktail before he leaves, sit back and enjoy the live jazz or house music, and just feel good. (Although to be honest, I don’t see myself ever going again after Ignace leaves.)

The Grape Wall Challenge 2009 at Maxim's

The Grape Wall Challenge 2010

June 24, Maison Boulud, Beijing

As someone who has witnessed some of the inner workings of  the wine scene in China, I have found there is a real need to promote consumer feedback and confidence. That is why I helped to organize, with Nicolas Carre and Frankie Zhao, the Grape Wall Challenge last year. The main goal: To compare how Chinese wine professionals and Chinese wine consumers enjoyed more than 40 red and white wines that retail for less than RMB100 (see here for the top reds and here for the top whites).

Why RMB100? Because the vast majority of wine is sold below this price, because such wine represents a logical alternative for those consumers who want to try something other than a Chinese label, and because most contests focus on more expensive products. The Grape Wall Challenge not only gave us insights into which of these wines the two groups enjoyed, but also, simply through participation, gave the consumers a great deal of confidence.

The challenge is on again this year. It will include more judges, new vintages, and the same price point, and will be held on June 24 at Maison Boulud. Full details, including how distributors can get involved, will be posted on Monday at The Grape Wall of China blog.

For posts about last year’s event, see here .

Excuse the baseball reference – I have been reading Ring Lardner lately – but I batted .333 the other night at the Legation Quarter (map) aka Ch’ienmen 23. Because I lost my phone, I had no way to contact the person who invited me to the official opening of Meat & Wine. And because I decided at the last minute to scope out the cocktail “shake off” at Fez, I arrived – with Mr Hao and Ms Hao – to find no tickets left. Crowds to the left of me, smokers – or at least char-broilers – to the right, I ended up with a base hit by swinging around and hustling to Maison Boulud.

I talk to many readers of this blog and there is near-universal acclaim for this place as a dining establishment, in terms of food, service, and ambiance. I also hear tales of the staff going the extra mile. Example: One acquaintance took his young daughter to Maison Boulud for her birthday dinner and she wanted a particular cake not found on the menu. One solution would be to substitute another dessert. Instead, the restaurant ad-libbed and made the sweets she desired. Not surprisingly, this thrilled the birthday girl and her parents are now fans and frequent patrons.

Maison Boulud is also a nice if sedate place to grab a drink. As mentioned elsewhere, I find the atmosphere a bit stuffy – a few ceilings fans for circulation and a slight brightening of the lights might help – but it is hard to top for service and attention to detail. I imagine my snootier friends would call it “civilized.”

I tried the Belgian Touch on Thursday night, with its raspberry beer providing a refreshing edge, though I still prefer the first two cocktails I tried at this place last year – Project 23, a spicy little number, and Bourbon Iced Tea, a refreshing one. But what impresses is the service. We received a welcome aperitif, chamomile-infused Grappa so smooth I would gladly order it on future visits, and a basket of “madelines”, cupcake-like morsels made with lemon, honey, and powdered sugar. As we finished our cocktails, we had a sample of vanilla- and fig-infused whiskey mixed with mashed persimmons and homemade orange-flavored bitters.

Mr Hao and Ms Hao recounted good experiences having dinner and brunch – and grabbing a bite at the ice cream stand stationed until recently out front – at Maison Boulud, thus adding to the list of the people who hold it in high esteem.

Note: Maison Boulud will be closed September 30 to October 3. Until the national holiday passes, it is best to call ahead.

Maison Boulud: Drink or meal?

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I stopped by Legation Quarter (map), now known as Chi’enmen 23, for a few cocktails on my way to Sanlitun last night. At Maison Boulud, I skipped my usual spicy Project 23 and refreshing Bourbon Iced Tea – the latter is not listed on the menu, which I find odd given this is a perfect summer drink – and tried a cocktail that includes “five spices“. I found it too heavy and the flavors too muddied, though the humid weather might have been a factor. After I noted this to the affable guy behind the bar – Jackie – he made me a Frescoe Martini. Kumquat-infused rum with lime, litchi, and strawberry – this was refreshment.

These cocktails are not cheap. The two I tried are listed at RMB72, though they come to RMB75.6 after the annoying 5 percent service charge (seriously, just make it RMB75 or RMB76, give the staff its cut, and save us all the hassle). But they are good value, given the surroundings and that the drink came with a bowl of cashews and some other snacks.

I then went to Agua, via Hex – I still think this place looks like a cross between a futuristic beehive and a high-end hostess bar – where I parked myself at the bar. I tried the Purple Love – muddled red grapes with gin, lemon juice, and lemon peel. I found it well-blended and smooth, in contrast to the cloying descriptions of the drinks on the menu.

I prefer the glassware here to Maison Boulod, where it is elegant but lacks proper weight. As for vibe, while Maison Boulud is staid – think of a private club where Mr. Burns of The Simpsons might feel comfy – Agua has the rattle and hum of the kitchen and crowd to provide background noise. Which one is best? It depends on your mood.

And what is the price of Purple Love? RMB82 – RMB16 discount + 10% service charge = RMB73. Well, at least they round things off to the nearest kuai. I didn’t make it to Fez, upstairs from Agua, this time around, but will soon…

Two other places I have grabbed drinks lately:

Q Bar (map): The new deck, despite being bigger, is much more intimate and the soundproofing means it is open later. There is also a bar outside as well as a kiosk where the staff can punch in drink orders and thus allow the bartenders inside to get a head start. A strong point of Q Bar is consistency, no easy feat, though at RMB60 per martini the prices approach that of The Legation Quarter.

Fubar (map): For mixed drinks, this place is hard to beat. A 50 ml pour of 42 Below vodka (five flavours available), Bombay Sapphire gin, or Havana 3 is RMB30 with mixer. The cocktails are decent, which is a pleasant surprise given how long the place has been open, and tend to be RMB50. The vibe? With Fubar only open 10 days, that is still to be determined. On my visits, I have found a diverse crowd of three dozen men and women, a handful of guys giving public descriptions of the adventures of their privates, and a soccer-fan heavy crowd. Still, for those seeking solid mixed drinks at low prices, this is a place to be.

A pair of incidents this past week made me think again about value-for-money drinks in Beijing…

One: A visit to The Beach (map) at Block 8 where a bottle of  mass-market Champagne and six tins of local beer cost ~RMB1000. Two: A visit to Fubar (map) where a gin tonic made with Bombay Sapphire cost RMB30.

Different people value different things when it comes to a night out. I don’t put much value in “see and be seen” spots, thus spending a grand to drink a bottle of bubbly served in scratched and scuffed plastic glasses and beer in plastic tumblers on this rooftop is not my thing. (By the way, the average squat-on-a-stool, three-kuai-per-big-bottle-of-Yanjing drink-in-the-street joint in Beijing has better glasses. Maybe The Beach is worried about getting broken glass in the sand, but surely there is an alternative to plastic glasses that look like they went through ten years of use at a summer cottage.)

Anyway, I value things such as an earthy atmosphere, a diverse clientele, and – because I lack unlimited money and a massive expense account – decent drinks at decent prices.

This brings me to the bubbly. Contrary to the pop of its cork, Champagne – as opposed to sparkling wine – generally offers the the smallest bang for the buck of any alcoholic beverage in town. If you are of my mindset, and find it ridiculous to spend ~RMB700 — a typical price at a bar or club — for a bottle of exceedingly average Champagne, here are other ways to spend that cash (I will use some of my favorite spots as examples):

• ~12-15 quality cocktails at Q Bar (map), either while sitting at the long bar or on the sofas inside, or on the new deck outside, which despite its size offers intimacy and no minimum table charge.
• ~10 cocktails at Maison Boulud (map), which makes some of the more interesting drinks in town, including what is among my friends the love-it-or-hate-it Project 23.
• ~20 beers such as James Boag’s or VB either inside or on the deck at Danger Doyle’s (map), at The Den (map), at The Stumble Inn (map), or elsewhere.
• ~3-4 bottles of quality wine from more than a half-dozen countries at the hutong-style Palette Vino (map) in Dongsishitiao.
• 2 bottles of Russian Standard vodka, with mixers, at Chocolate (map).
• 35 shots of homemade rum at Salud (map) in Nanluoguxiang. (Note: the second branch of Salud is slated to open in Sanlitun North, opposite Tongli Studio, later this week.)
  
• 23 gin tonics, made – as noted above – with Bombay Sapphire gin, at the new Fubar (map). Or ~13 Hendrick’s gin tonics for those who want to go upscale.
• ~235 big bottles of Yanjing, in a glass or from the bottle rather than from a scuffed plastic glass, at many of the squat-on-a-stool-outside joints in the city.

You could also go for cocktails at Ruby Khi, downstairs from The Beach. And in defense of The Beach, the place is simply passing on the outrageous price of even the low-end Champagne available in Beijing. If you like bubbles, and care about how much you spend, you are better off finding a sparkling wine you like from Italy, Spain, Australia, or any other number of places.

Or doing your Champagne drinking at Sunday brunches, such as The Westin on Financial Street, when you can stuff your face with food and booze for about half the price of a bottle of Mumm’s or Moet-Chandon at the average club or bar in this city…

In part nine of this series, Bjorn Stabell, founder of “agile software development company” Exoweb, shares his top five places to eat and drink in Beijing. Actually, he’s gone that extra mile and given us six, and noted a couple of spots for the laptop crowd to enjoy. (Links are to the City Weekend Web site that Exoweb built.)

… as the most-searched-for bar or restaurant on this blog.

(Short intermission as I duck shoes, books, beer cans, mustard bottles, and other objects hurled by those who pine for a return of their favorite hot dog joint, closed since March.)

After being knocked out of top spot by China View dance spot Klubb Rouge a couple of times this summer, Maggie’s headed the search charts in September. The top five is rounded out by Legation Quarter, Maison Boulod, Mosto, and Element Fresh.

Maggie’s, which holds a dual identity as a spot with good music, people-watching, and hot dogs and as a place where, uh, joint ventures can be negotiated, must soon be reopening, no?

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See also:
The search continues: Maggie’s gone, but not forgotten

Look for Gongti-Sanlitun area clubs China Doll (in the 3.3 Building) and Klubb Rouge to open in the first half of next month, while late June is the target at Maison Boulod in The Legation Quarter, which saw its art center open last Saturday night. Meanwhile, the management at Project H20 says it hopes to its new Nali Studio space open in the first week of July. Time is getting tight given there are just over ten weeks until the Olympics…

This is the first in a series of posts on four places projected to open over the next few months. Tomorrow: the new China Doll.

(Photos: The Legation Quarter)

I had yet to enjoy watching the New York Giants beat the New England Patriots in the Super Bowl, I remained unaware that the Black Eyed Peas provide the ideal beat for apartment cleaning, and I could still fit into my good black jeans – all these things were true when The Legation Quarter, the most anticipated food and beverage project in this city, was first scheduled to open more than a year ago.

How times have changed.

I toured The Legation Quarter last week and ran into the man most associated with the project, Handel Lee (Three on the Bund, The Courtyard, RBL), who outlined several buildings before marketing director Lulu Liu took over. Word is that some venues will open in mid-May (see below).

The Legation Quarter is big and, in many ways, beautiful, so in the words of BEP, “Let’s get it started.”

Like many of Lee’s projects, this venue is laden with history. According to the company brochure, five of the Legation Quarter’s buildings date from 1903 and were built to house the U.S. Embassy during the waning years of the Qing Dynasty. The 170,000-square-foot space later served as the Dalai Lama’s residence, a state guest house, and Ministry of Foreign Affairs offices. Additional buildings and an underground space have been added to house a club, a bar, and other establishments.

Here’s a lineup of some key projects.

Projected opening: mid-May

- Maison Boulud (back center in image above), “a French concept restaurant by award-winning chef Daniel Boulud from New York,” according to the brochure. The ground floor includes a bar, lounge and main dining room; the second floor, accessible by two staircases, holds smaller dining rooms.

- The Legation Center for the Arts (right front), which will host exhibitions, film programs and lectures. The rooftop offers good views of the old post office and train station as well as Tiananmen.

Projected opening: mid-June

- Mission (right top), the 1400-square-meter nightclub portion of Legation Quarter, which will include a lounge, VIP rooms and deck space. Lee says that a New York-London outfit is handling the project. The brochure says Mission “is sure to blaze a trail across the sky of Beijing’s nightlife” (let’s hope they have fire extinguishers).

- Teatro (right middle), an Italian restaurant; this building will include a wine cellar and a shop that sells bread, cheese, olive oil, and other goods.

Projected opening: mid-July

- Shiro Matsu (left top), a Japanese restaurant.

- Tian Di Yi Jian (left bottom, barely in image), a Chinese restaurant “embedded” in a furniture showroom.

The Legation Quarter will also include a 650-square-meter underground theater.

This project is ambitious and, given the delays, obviously not an easy one to complete. I have no idea about the rent, but large expatriate kitchen staffs do not come cheap. Maison Boulud seems especially promising as it could become a must visit for US business and government delegations, among others. The Legation Quarter has potential for event launches, weddings and so on. It’s hard to say how many people will come for, say, Italian or Japanese food, but I guess individual vendors will shoulder at least some of the responsibility of bringing in patrons.

A cutaway of Maison Boulod