Beijing Boyce

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Jam shares the same alley as Temple just off Gulou East and that means we can expect people to soon claim this as the next up-and-coming drinking zone in town. There might be something to that, given Temple is already a draw, and Jam, which is pretty big by NLGX-Gulou standards, offers a good vibe and a charismatic owner in Ryu. And that’s not even to mention nearby Awesomeness Cafe, which offers a nice chill-out space upstairs and plenty of potential.

Anyway, I stopped by Saturday night, my first visit since sampling some Yunnan wines about a month ago, and enjoyed my martini — the retro olive forks are a fun touch. I also tried a ‘Tom Waits“, which includes Bourbon and Campari, that Ryu recommended. An interesting concoction though I’d be more inclined to order another martini.

Jam is worth a visit and I look forward to trying the food, which Ryu says will soon be available. And to the upcoming magazine headlines about this place. We Be Jammin’? Jam Packed? Cocktail Preserve? In a Jam? Wham, bam, thank you Jam? Editors will be having fun with this one…

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Someone with the code name “Betty” gives you a tip about a Japanese-style bar about to open in the Gulou area. Hmm. An hour later you find yourself on an unfamiliar street, staring at a darkened second floor window, and wondering, “Is that it?” Hmm. You stare some more and think, “Am I crazy or is there a faint light coming from inside?” Hmm.

You climb a staircase, find the glass door locked, and see there are lights on. You knock. No response. You knock again. No response. Then you see a guy walking around. You knock louder. He walks to the door with a “Who the hell are you?” look on his face. Is he the owner? Yes. You explain who you are and, after a pause, he opens the door.  Twenty minutes later you are sitting at the bar, drinking Yunnan fruit wine, and being told you are lucky because the glasses for the place arrived less than an hour ago. I’m not sure what my point is except I’m glad I went upstairs and knocked.

Jam is both bar and restaurant, slated to open next week, and close to Temple. It has a high bar that can seat 15, a low L-shaped counter with a similar capacity, and enough space for 50 or more at tables. Pop your head out of the windows for views of The Drum Tower and the hutongs below. Owner Ryu hails from Shanghai but says his resume includes a stint in the bar business outside Tokyo.

Jam will serve Japanese and Italian food, Ryu says, with the beverage list covering spirits, cocktails, beer (including Asahi draft) and that Yunnan fruit wine. He had two unopened plastic containers of the stuff, made by a small group of farmers down south, he says, and added that it costs less to buy it than ship it to Beijing. Then he cracked the seals.

First we tried the plum wine, the equivalent of umeshu, he says. It smells like, well, plums, with a touch of honey. It is viscous, both sour and sweet, and goes down far too easily. (I think we both used the word “dangerous”.) The papaya wine had a slight wood shaving smell that shifted to dried grass and fruit. It is drier, and balanced, with a slightly grainy after-taste. If I had to choose a second glass of either, I’d probably go papaya. In any case, interesting stuff, and I hope to try them again — and other fruit wines — when Jam opens.

(Hat tip: Betty, C-Burger)