Beijing Boyce

Vincent Cafe, in the 798 art district, offers a sizeable chicken Caesar salad (ample portions of chicken, bacon and flaked parmesan; just the right amount of sauce; 30 kuai) and tasty buckwheat crepes (egg and cheese; hot from the grill; 20 kuai). The Grace Chardonnay at 22 kuai per glass is worth a try. As my friend and lunch buddy O-Zone already knows, this is pleasant place to eat.

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

Garden of Delights, a two-minute hop from Icehouse, hosted an ASC Spanish wine tasting (150 kuai) last week. This Latin American restaurant is long, narrow and high, with a curved roof, a simple and airy interior, and earthy elements, including wood and bricks. It borrows themes from Hieronymus Bosch’s “The Garden of Earthly Delights,” though the phrase “Ikea biosphere” popped into my head.

We sampled five Bodegas Chivite wines, including a Chardonnay 2004, Rose 2004, Moscatel 2001, Gran Feudo Reserve 1998 (80% Tempranillo; the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) and Coleccion 125 Gran Reserva 1995. Bodegas Chivite is a top-ten producer and apparently the oldest winery in Spain, and company rep Marife Blanco Esteban described the wines as “home in a glass.” Cheers! My notes were scant and I will simply say that I enjoyed all five, particularly the fresh and crisp Chardonnay and the 1995 reserve.

The three-course dinner (300 kuai), accompanied by even more wine, was prepared by visiting chef Jordi Valles, who previously worked at both Akelarre and Arzak in Spain. (The guy beside me said that he made reservations seven months ahead at one of these places; a restaurant in Beijing is lucky enough to avoid being chai’d for that long.) I had diced roasted chicken with avocado puree between corn chips (tasty morsels); roasted salmon with Peruvian seafood sauce (perhaps a bit too subtle for my base tastes); and warm chocolate souffle cake with molten chocolate center (which I am suing for making me a diabetic). I also enjoyed talking to some of the owners, which consist of three couples who seem like slightly nervous parents with this, their first, restaurant, as well as the Ecuadorian floor manager, who had been in Beijing for only 24 hours and claims he makes a mean Mojito. (Agent Red Wolf has put it to the test and gives a high grade; see next issue.)

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

Durty Nellie’s is big and in a basement, and has stone walls and wood trimming, and everything from a sit down bar to a pool table to a stage. It was pretty much deserted when Agent Red Wolf and I visited, on a Friday night, and was thus a bit depressing, though I’ve heard it is fun when crowded. My Bloody Mary looked weak and tasted sweet (sugar-laden local juice, perhaps?) while Red Wolf generously described her margarita as average and lamented that the old Durty Nellie’s was better. The location is a bit inconvenient and the facade needs some work, but with a paint of coat outside and some people inside, perhaps…

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

Icehouse (Wangfujing) has reopened after a two-month hiatus. The new layout includes tiered seating, with sofas and lounge chairs on the wings, table seating in the middle and an extended bar in back (a foot rail would be nice). This offsets the overly hollow and boxy feel of the original design, although the place feels otherwise unchanged. As for music, Melvin Taylor and the Slack Band play blues – pure and simple – and did a nice BB King cover. The near-capacity crowd last Saturday night was clearly appreciative. As for drinks, I ordered a dry martini and said “no olives” to the wait staff in both English and Mandarin. Of course, it came with olives. The martini was passable, the Cosmopolitan anemic, the Long Island Iced Tea tasty. Drinks are 45 kuai and quite reasonable given there is no cover charge for the band. As for food, the staff was unsure if any was available, but my friend used her natural charm to secure some seafood rice – delicious, but prohibitive at 60 kuai. Overall, the new icehouse is moderately more comfortable and has infinitely more appropriate music than the old one. It’s a must for blues fans. (I still think it would be cool if they did something with frozen vodka shots, such as making a mini-bar out of ice, with openings for the bottles. I mean, it’s not too literal given that the owners named a Qing Dynasty icehouse “icehouse.”)

(From Beijing Boyce XI, first emailed on February 23, 2006)

Fancy an assault on your heart and liver? Go to Schindler’s (south gate, Ritan Park) and down a platter of grilled meat and spuds (85 kuai), accompanied by a steady supply of German draft (22-27 per pint). If you’re not a big eater, you’re best splitting a dish with a friend. Schindler’s offers solid fare and good brew in an atmosphere where being noisy seems mandatory. Lebe das guten Leben. (By the way, another branch will open in the old Riverside Cafe spot.)

(From Beijing Boyce XI, first emailed on February 23, 2006)

It’s in what’s supposedly a six-star hotel – The St. Regis – though the service lags about three stars behind. Decent but over-priced booze in a stuffy atmosphere that makes me want to pretend, in hushed tones, that I have some influence in the universe. (“I tell you Davis, if we can get Chip to think outside the box, we’ll corner the kimchi market.”) 

(From Beijing Boyce XI, first emailed on February 23, 2006)

M-Dawg and I had dinner at Faraway Cafe, just south of the Gongti West club zone, after foregoing kangaroo burgers at Jack’s (more on that place in a future issue). He gave a thumb up to the goat cheese and vegetable salad, but found the chicken rolls a bit skimpy on the meat. Also on the runway model end of plumpness was my half-chicken (55 kuai), the meager meat an insufficient match for the rich sauce on the green peppers, zucchinis and onions. Faraway Cafe has a nice outdoor seating area, which will be pleasant come spring, though the interior is a bit Spartan. The big screen showing Chinese soap operas is just plain annoying. Final words to M-Dawg: “The presentation [of the food] is relatively professional, but the decor leaves me cold.”

(From Beijing Boyce XI, first emailed on February 23, 2006)

I finally went to Fish Nation (Sanlitun North), which I have passed dozens of times, but have always avoided given the crowds. Now I understand its popularity. Battered fish (one big and one small), chips (perfectly cooked and salted) and a Qingdao: 40 kuai. As I sat at the counter, I’m not sure which was gurgling louder, the deep fryers or my stomach in anticipation of the eats. Fish Nation ain’t fancy and only seats eight, but the staff knows how to use oil. (Note: Fish Nation delivers, Sundays to Thursday.)

(From Beijing Boyce XI, first emailed on February 23, 2006)

Browns (Sanlitun South; 22:45) Carnegie’s in Taipei is famous (infamous?) as the city’s most raucous night spot, featuring great service, a massive beverage selection (including 366 shooters), an admirable layout and a long bar where the wilder (and usually drunker) clients get up and dance the night and early morning away. It’s a runaway success and now Browns is seeking to emulate it in Beijing (there are also Carnegie’s in Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Perth, and a Browns in London). With RJ heading home, Agent Red Wolf and WF joined us to check it out.

Although only open for two days, and having details to work out – the menu desperately needs a spell check: “Soff drinks”, “Carlsbery”, and on and on; there are some weird prices: 42 kuai for a martini, 43 kuai for a “martini favorite”; and the toilets need a cleaning – Browns has the potential to be a great bar and possibly the best of the year.

The martini was decent (though not particularly dry), the beer was reasonably priced (pints of Kilkenny and Guinness at 35 kuai), and the thin-crust pizza was tasty. The staff, which includes five Filipinos, was polite and efficient (though they could drop the “ma’am” and “sir” stuff). Lisa, who handled our table, was excellent. When Agent Red Wolf felt her Long Island Iced Tea needed more rum and lime, it was quickly topped up.

The long bar has a brass railing up top to keep the expected dancers from falling into the employees and massive shelves of alcohol. In front of the bar is a standing / dancing area, and behind that two levels of seating. The decor is flat black and white, with dark wood, brass and glass accents, and the walls contain music-themed pictures and instruments. The high ceilings will minimize smoke.

We had a nice chat with Lawrence Chen, the general manager, and Jacky Kong, the supervisor, who said they plan to open adjoining Mexican, Japanese and other themed rooms. Hmmm. In any case, it’s a great start for Browns, with the only downside being that the spotlights and dance music were out of sync with the feel of the bar, especially given the sparse crowd. It just doesn’t seem right to have electric guitars and pictures of Jimi Hendrix on the walls and then only play music typified by Black Eyed Peas’ “My Humps.”

(From Beijing Boyce IX, first emailed on January 26, 2006; this writeup is also included in the post “A Beijing Saturday night” and is listed separately here in order to included it in the “First Impressions” category.)

Nashville (reincarnated after being demolished earlier this year on Sanlitun South Road). The second floor: Lots of wood and leather, with comfy chairs by the windows; the mixture of John Cougar Mellencamp from the first floor and smooth jazz on the second is “interesting”; decent pizza: (RMB40, 8-inch), though the waiter stood a meter away, watched us eat and tried to remove the plates while we were holding the last slice; wall art includes Tibetan pictures, dart trophies and a Shania Twain poster; Taiwan folk music hero Luo Dayou was sitting nearby; pints of Qingdao (RMB25); the warm colors were a nice contrast to the cold and blustery weather. Main floor: all the rough-hewn, rustic flavor of the old Nashville, and that’s a plus, even with 15 people on hand; a great vibe while the singer performed. “Luo Dayou is one of the most famous musicians from Taiwan. I can’t believe we are sitting here and watching him playing the drums!” Fans of the old Nashville are going to love this place.

(From Beijing Boyce VI, first emailed on December 14, 2005)

5:19. Four kinds of wine from Moldova (!) (RMB40 / glass); feels like a 1980s recreation room (where’s the Atari and Pong?); a bit chilly given the stone block floor; still getting in gear, with the beer taps, maple syrup (for cocktails) and name cards expected soon; the dart board is right above the sofa (wear a helmet); four kinds of Moldova wine (!) (sorry, had to repeat that again); happy hour from 5:19 to 8 (PM); bingo nights planned; owner is a former partner in the now-demolished Artifacts.

(From Beijing Boyce VI, first emailed on December 14, 2005)

Reopened in new digs, Le Petit Gourmand (LPG) is a nice alternative to The Bookworm, which at times is overcrowded (you have to wait for a seat) and noisy (the sounds of nearby construction are bearable, but fellow patrons making business calls – “Wei!? Wei? Report yo mae yo!? – are not). LPG has a growing book collection, solid wireless and a deck that has me anticipating spring. The latte is a good deal at 15 kuai – the same price as a regular coffee, but three times bigger. The staff is inefficient, whether its misunderstandings over orders or delivering entrees 15 minutes apart, even when the place is almost empty. The food is passable, whether it is pasta or sandwiches (35-40 kuai). My pizza was the exception. Accompanied with the Parmesan I shook out was a tiny live cockroach that landed on my pizza and made the most of it (I thought I ordered vegetarian). The bug is not the biggest issue. Such things happen (flashback to high school when I worked at a beach resort restaurant and we would find bees in the soft ice cream machine.) What matters is staff reaction. At LPG, they were very apologetic and offered to replace it. They quickly re-emerged with a pizza, seemingly too quickly (perhaps they turned up the oven), and the waiter opened a new can of Parmesan before my eyes. Personally, I would have provided the pizza free but then again I’m not from the, “40 kuai now is worth more than losing a customer for life” school. Aside from the roach, LPG was a pleasant place to relax, chat and check email. (This story’s title is a takeoff of the Shuffle Demons song, “Get out of My House, Roach” and the odds of anyone knowing that are about the same as, uh, a roach coming out of a can of Parmesan.)

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

This little Tex-Mex spot across from Apertivo is decorated in warm reds and yellows and has sturdy wooden furniture. It’s Spartan layout seats 20, with one chair having, you guessed it, a saddle (patrons can lean back in it while alcohol is poured into their mouths. I passed, having watched Urban Cowboy too many times). The chicken and rice burrito (35 kuai) was piping hot, though I would have loved some guacamole and sour cream. There was a bone chip in it so be careful (another patron had a similar experience). The nacho chips and salsa (RMB20) could have used more salt and lime, though they were a nice change from the bottled stuff. Qingdao: RMB15. Daily special, 6-8 PM: burritos, salsa and chips, and a beer for RMB50.

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

This bar in Palm Springs Apartments’ mall apparently is being positioned as an alternative to Centro. Palms is smaller and snugger than Centro, though in both places you have to go outside for the toilet (in this case there wasn’t any toilet paper). It has a friendly staff, comfy chairs and a decent, though lifeless at times, band (save for the energetic keyboardist). The beverage list is a bit sparse for a high-end bar (one Italian wine). At the time of my visit, Palms had been open only ten days and Agent Red Wolf and I talked at length with the owners and general manager about our first impressions. My biggest one was that the vodka martini (60 kuai) lacked a key ingredient – vodka – as did its replacement. Eventually, with the general manager’s help – he sipped my martini and realized, “Hey, this has no vodka!” – I received a better-than-average, larger-than-normal drink. Red Wolf’s Mojito was light on the rum and she found the Screwdriver below par. Let’s hope Palms gets the drinks end of the business fixed ASAP.

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

citizens of Shunyi, this courtyard bar is a cozy retreat. It has but one beer on tap, but the burgers and quesadillas (~40 kuai) are good, and apparently made by an ex-John Bull Pub chef. The ambience could use some work (someone labeled it as reminiscent of a student hangout of decades past), but Shunyi beggars cannot be choosers. Hopefully, The Pomegranate inspires more bars out that way. Our only problem: the driver the staff secured to get us downtown turned out to be a jerk, dropping off my friends and then refusing to drive me a further 400 meters home. This is normally not a big deal, but I was carrying six bottles of wine and several bags of groceries. (Note: I complained by email to the Pomegranate and Mike Hall – I assume he’s in management – said he would do his best to make sure that driver is not used again. “As you’re probably aware, the taxi drivers don’t actually work for us, we just have a list of numbers of local drivers to call so we don’t have much control over them. Once again, I’m sorry that your night ended on a sour note.” No worries, Mike, and thanks for the effort.)

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

Open about a year in the desolate stretch between the north end of Sanlitun Bar Street and Cappuccinos, Liqueur has a “rustic” decor that is heavy on red and includes burlap draped across the ceiling. The glossy chairs are wobbly and the bar consists of thick boards separated by bricks. The patrons seemed like regulars and were friendly and relaxed, as was the owner, Gun. The place had a strong neighborhood feel to it. Carlsberg: 20 kuai, Qingdao: 15 kuai. There’s a guitar on the premises, if patrons feel like playing, and a huge plate of candy by the door, though I’m not sure why (Halloween leftovers?).

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

One of three remaining holdouts at the southern end of Sanlitun South, it is your typical bar in a box: rectangular, tile floor, wooden tables, wooden bar, a few posters, a foosball machine [Ed. M-Dawg's hand-eye coordination is easily depleted by fruit cocktails]. Qingdao: 10 kuai, Bacardi Breezer: 15 kuai. Sesame was empty, so we had a monopoly on the foosball as we listened to a CD on which every song title contained the word “America”: David Bowie (I’m Afraid of America), Violent Femmes (American Music), James Brown (Living in America), you get the idea. Sesame is nothing special, but okay if you like foosball and cheap drinks.

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

In contrast to its eye-catching and arty name cards, this place on Gongti North felt cluttered and disorderly. Unfortunately, I never fully experienced the ambience given the following dialogue with the waiter:

[Hands us a menu]

“It’s 40 kuai for all-you-can-drink Great Wall wine or draft beer.”

[I look at the menu and see bottled Qingdao for 15 kuai.]

“Can I just have a bottle of Qingdao?”

“Yes.”

“Great!”

“But it will cost 55 kuai – 40 for the all-you-can-drink special and 15 for the Qingdao.”

“That’s really smart, isn’t it?” [Yes, I got sarcastic, which doesn’t usually work in these places. They take you literally.]

In any case, Pipes Cafe is supposedly a hangout for the lesbian crowd and my friend speculated that the 40-kuai deal is a way of keeping out riff raff like us (hey, I love women, too!).

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

Light and airy, with pine furniture and a tile floor, the American Cafe is said rumored to have Beijing’s best burgers. It’s decorated with posters and prints with, um, eclectic themes. One side has Toy Story and the Muppets, the back has the all-too-predictable James Dean, Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley combo, while the front left has a black and white photo of Jackie Robinson stealing home during the 1955 World Series (nice!), among others. Anyway, the Boston burger (RMB40) came with fried mushrooms, cheese and bacon, plus tomato, onion, pickle and lettuce on a sesame bun. It was tasty, though the patty could have been firmer, and came with crispy fries seasoned with herbs. Said a dinner mate: “The Boston burger was quite satisfying in terms of size and flavor, even though (a) it appeared to have nothing to do with my hometown of Boston, and (b) had a little too much of that charcoal-grilled taste. That could be because I asked for it well done. Try it at 70 percent done (qi fen shou).” All in all, we were a satisfied crew and recommend giving the place a try.

(From Beijing Boyce VII, first emailed on December 29, 2005)

Who would have thunk that a pub in an apartment complex (Blue Castle) could be so snug? This long and narrow place features two floors, with the upper level accessible by two staircases, and plenty of cubby holes for small groups of friends. There is a nice side room, though some among us found the wallpaper (yes, some places have moved beyond paint and cinder blocks) a bit psychedelic. “The bathroom shouldn’t be upstairs,” said one in our group. “The orange juice is good,” said another. “The upper level is faintly reminiscent of the Big Easy,” said a third. The staff could afford to be a bit more attentive (empty glasses over here!), though the French bartender is friendly. Wobbly chairs at the bar. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. Free hot peanuts. If I lived nearby, Brewery Tap might become a favorite haunt.

(From Beijing Boyce VII, first emailed on December 29, 2005)