Beijing Boyce

Four times, I went to Phil’s Pub last month. Four times, I enjoyed it. For a great neighborhood feel, go to this spot near the southernmost end of Sanlitun South. / Thanks to Martin, Shayne and Karen for passing on my newsletter. / Channel V just showed Wham!’s Wake Me Up Before You Go Go. Is it just me or did George Michael and Princess Diana have the same hairdresser? And wouldn’t it be fair to say that Ricky Martin was the George Michael of his generation? / My co-worker Kate treated me to lunch at Riverside Cafe to celebrate my first year in Beijing. What a pleasant spot, with a lounge, dining area and good selection of wines on sale. We had the daily special — a tasty steak that I decided would be better marinated in Guinness (I accomplished this by pouring two pints of this most excellent brew down my throat). The visit’s highlight: finding 16-ounce wine glasses at RMB20 per piece, which I used for my Schandlicious party. Excellent value! / I attended the oriented.com event at Bodhi’s Terrace, across from Outback Steakhouse. The spa inside was pretty fancy, for all you massage maniacs. / The next Chopschticks is 7:30 PM, November 19, at Icehouse, with comedians Al Lubel (Letterman, The Tonight Show, even back when Johnny Carson was host: “Al’s so old school he’s new skule, peoples!” writes organizer Rich Robinson) and Joe DeRosa (Late Night with Carson Daly, Comedy Central). Tickets: 250RMB at the door; 220RMB before November 17. Email Tickets@TheComedyTour.com. (I’ve been to two shows so far and they’re good, clean – well, maybe that’s the wrong word – fun.) / Monday, October 31, 2005: Remember that as the day HBO put on consecutive movies so horrendous that the universe almost imploded. Catwoman was a farce, but at least was somewhat Halloween-esque. But to follow that up with – IRON EAGLE! This movie ranks among the ten worst of all time and there it was in all its bad plot, bad acting, bad special effects glory. And there I was watching it because the soundtrack has that great Queen “One Vision” song. The horror! / Not much to report on the First Cafe / Midnight situation. I’ve passed both about 20 times during the past two weeks and judging by the window, Midnight is averaging zero to five customers. Time shall tell. For now, I can’t bring myself to visit either place. It’s like (and non-baseball fans, please forgive me) you are a Boston Red Sox fan and the team trades its heart and soul player, Big Papi, to the New York Yankees. You can’t go to the Boston games anymore because the management screwed up and let Big Papi go and you can’t go to the Yankees games because that stadium just doesn’t feel right. You know what I’m saying? / I’m putting together a charity event that will involve people getting tipsy and helping children, all at the same time. More details to come. Cheers.

(From Beijing Boyce III, first emailed on November 3, 2005)

It’s a dog eat dog, bar beat bar world and Sanlitun is no exception. At least three pairs of establishments are going head to head there.

Martini madness

The soap opera surrounding First Cafe continues. In the last episode, we learned how two Chinese bartenders came to the big city and worked for foreign owners at a martini bar only to see the place’s popularity and their workload soar, while their benefits remained, to put it kindly, stable. Disgruntled, they broke free about a month ago and have now found an investor and set up shop in front of their old workplace. Grudges, revenge and cutthroat competition, this scene has it all – with a twist of lemon.

Our dynamic bartending duo thinks their popularity with the previous patrons will bring in droves of customers. (How do I know? They said so, while we sampled three 12-year-old whiskies I brought back from vacation. Maybe they didn’t say “droves,” but they definitely used “most” and “lots.” Trust me. I don’t make this stuff up.) First Cafe’s best feature was excellent drinks, and especially martinis, but it also had a potent mix of coziness and interesting customers. This new bar — called Midnight: don’t get me started on the name — is about twice as big as First Cafe’s top floor and it will be hard to create a similar ambience. Here’s the thing: great drinks work due to the recipe. If you take the ingredients and change the formula, you toy with disaster. That’s what’s happened to First Cafe as a bar. Let’s hope things don’t go sour.
As the worm turns

More precisely, it’s wriggled from Sanlitun North to just off Sanlitun South, just down from where it meets Gongti North. Bookworm leaves behind former food partner Le Petit Gourmand, which has a sign proclaiming to the world that yes, it is open, essential to mention given the rubble surrounding the place. The new Bookworm‘s interior is clean, comfortable and spacious, with three lounge areas, reasonably priced drinks (RMB12 for an Espresso or diet Coke; RMB15 for Yanjing draft), 14000-plus books available for loan and hundreds for sale, excellent service, and the continuing lecture series. (I’m still having nightmares thanks to Mark Benecke, the forensic scientist who specializes in etymology and took us step by step — or, rather, picture by picture — through solving a crime by looking at insects on a corpse’s body, his talk appropriately titled, “The Great Maggot Detective.” The last seminar was by Jim McGregor, who spoke to a packed house about his new book, One Billion Customers.) Besides a near electrocution by a malfunctioning lamp chord, my only criticisms about the Bookworm would be that the music is too loud at times and that it is going to be too popular. As for Le Petit Gourmand, it’s hanging in as long as possible in a location destined for redevelopment.

Not lonely at the top

Bar Blu was known for having a most big and excellent rooftop. Then it got whacked in half. Before you could pop the caps on a couple of Coronas, Top Club opened on the other side, separated by a two-meter barrier, apparently by the brains behind nearby Kai Club, which specializes in cheap drinks and is popular with students. I have yet to visit Top Club, but have heard from others that it offers a decent rooftop lounge. As for Bar Blu, it remains a mystery. On one hand, it has decent service at times and a good happy hour. On the other, I, and other acquaintances, have sometimes found the staff arrogant (and forgetful about bringing back change). Will the real Bar Blu please stand up?

(From Beijing Boyce II, first emailed on October 20, 2005)
### Sanlitun First Cafe Midnight The Bookworm Le Petit Gourmand (old) Bar Blu Top Club Kai Club

It is a sad day to see your favorite pub resigned to the empty bottle heap of history. I’m talking about a place where you hang out with homies, take friends visiting China, and hold birthday, going away and Thank Buddha It’s Friday parties; where you show up alone and usually meet somebody you know and, if not, chat up the soul on the next stool.

It’s bad enough when such a place is razed for a new, and about to look old in two years, apartment complex or shopping mall. It’s worse when things go awry due to clashing egos. The latter has happened at First Cafe with the departure of George and Echo, the place’s only two bartenders and arguably the city’s best.

(Even my New York City-living, martini-loving friend Ro loves the drinks as does my friend Janalyn, even if she heads for unconsciousness after the first sip – Janalyn, jet lag doesn’t last three months!).

Let’s forget the dirty details about whether George and Echo were fired and forget that the bar has been neither demolished nor seen its door shuttered, the simple fact is that the place will never be the same for its most loyal patrons and some of the friends I have made there, including Oliver, Sherry, Joan, Kay or Janet. (This is even worse than when Buca Buca, which had the best martinis in Taipei, shut up shop.)

I’ve given out 120 First Cafe business cards and taken 50 friends, colleagues, clients and acquaintances there over the past year. This place was a cozy spot with great ambience, a good clientele and, most importantly, bartenders that knew their craft. At the same time, I and other patrons have told management many times to do something or lose their bartenders. “No one listens to people with curly hair,” as the old Chinese saying goes, and now we must wait, with great thirst, for George and Echo to pop up in a new locale. I met up with them shortly after the Fateful Day at First Cafe: it created a good excuse for us to sample three 12-year-old whiskies I brought back from vacation – and they have some new tricks up their sleeves to concoct even better martinis.

The big question now: Will First Cafe continue along the familiar path of many other small bar and restaurants? A cozy place opens and offers something unique in the way of drinks, food, ambience or service. It builds a cult following and those supporters bring their friends. It starts booming and everyone takes credit: the managers assume it’s administrative genius; the bartenders or chefs cite their creations; the customers mention their gratis marketing. A key manager, bartender or chef leaves and quality slips. The place continues to boom for a few months on the momentum of pre-fallout days. Then, there is a drift to mediocrity and, often, closure. Time will tell, but just as an excellent martini has a last slip, so too do good bars eventually come to an end.

[Ironies of ironies – when I arrived in The Bookworm tonight to send out this newsletter, who did I end up finding across from me but – Echo and George. Being the little eavesdropper I am, I heard them talking to an investor about the new bar they are opening in a few days – right in front of First Cafe. More on this later, but suffice to say I heard the phrase, "What's the cheapest gin we can use?" Let's give the benefit of the doubt to them for now.]

(From Beijing Boyce I, first emailed on October 6, 2005)