Beijing Boyce

It was Friday night, 2:30 AM, Agent Red Wolf had called nearly a dozen pizza places – Buona, Papa John’s, you name it – and none could deliver. The hunger mounted, mirages materialized, unconsciousness neared, and with my last bit of energy I hoarsely whispered, “The Den.” Lo and behold, less than 30 minutes later, two pizzas and two burgers were at the door (130 RMB; thanks to GZ for the treat). Nourished, I then recalled someone saying that The Den had a good happy hour, so I popped down there the following Thursday with M-Dawg and Pony. The deal: drinks and pizzas are half-price from 5-10 PM (sorry, I can’t remember which days). The meal: five pies (eight-inch, thin crust and tasty), two pints of Guinness, three pints of Qingdao and two drinks for 230 kuai. Except for spotting a (small) bug wander across the bar top, it was a very happy hour.

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

When Frank’s Place (between The Den and City Hotel) closed a while back, its two partners went separate ways. One opened The Pavillion two weeks ago while the other is completing a 1400-square-meter monster of a bar, due open in January, near Lido Hotel. Last issue, I included random observations about The Pavillion’s opening night. I’ve since returned thrice, including trips with Agent Red Wolf and Agent Hidden Dragon, and can provide a fuller report.

The Pavillion has done an excellent job with layout and decor. It has large and comfy leather chairs, a faux fireplace, two stand-up bars, various cubby holes, a glass-walled wine room and a forest out back (spend a few moments looking at it and feel your blood pressure drop). It’s a bit too spic and span, but character will come in time. The staff is friendly, the service is solid, and one hopes the employees can walk the fine line between friendliness and obtrusiveness, a little known skill in this town.

In any case, Agent Hidden Dragon liked the Champagne (Laurent Perrier; RMB78 per glass) and the decor, but thought the music was “too common.” Agent Red Wolf also liked the decor (“it’s like a five-star hotel lounge”) and the spring rolls (excellent presentation, though pricey at RMB45), although she didn’t find the Americano cocktail strong enough and thought the martini sub-par (I gave it a sip and she was right). She also thought the music “too old” and “not sexy enough.” Let’s face it, RW is a hard agent to please, but she did have a point: it was odd to be reclining in luxury in the early eve and listening to ABBA’s “Dancing Queen” and Prince’s “1999.”

This mismatch is reflected elsewhere in the Pavillion and suggests the place is still finding its identity. Let’s take a couple that arrives, sits by the fireplace and orders a nice bottle of wine. How happy will they be when, 30 minutes later, the music cuts out and the TVs come on, high volume, with the pre-game analysis for a rugby game? What is the Pavillion? A sports bar? A wine bar? A restaurant? A cigar lounge? A dance club (there was live band on opening night)? All of the above?

The other issue is clientele: Based on my visits, the target market appears to be over-35 expatriates with decent salaries. I’m guessing the new bar in Lido, not to mention other establishments, are targeting the same crowd. Given the finite number of moneyed foreigners, are there be enough to go around or will The Pavillion have to seek patrons from elsewhere? In any case, it is a welcome addition to Beijing’s bar scene and definitely worth a look. It’s just across the street from Babyface, about 10 meters to the south.

Two final notes: 1) Last issue I griped that the The Pavillion lacked a foot rail. The proprietor, Russell, said they didn’t like the rail they ordered and will get another one. Fair enough. 2) The Pavillion plans to have barbecues out back once the weather warms up and this should be an excellent place to sit back with some food and drinks.

(From Beijing Boyce V, first emailed on December 1, 2005)