Beijing Boyce

Those suffering brisket withdrawal since Home Plate BBQ stopped delivery can rest assured as this operation will return as a restaurant. With a menu that includes everything from pulled pork to Buffalo wings to chili cheese fries, Home Plate might open as early as mid-May in the Sanyuan Bridge area, says Seth Grossman. He says he plans to serve up “the finest real pit Southern BBQ with great drinks, rocking music and classic films.”

Cheese and Wine, already home to more than three dozen cheeses, continues to push the fromage frontier in Beijing. It recently added six more cheeses, including blocks from Alsace and Sardinia.

Formerly the face of The Butcher Steakhouse in Sanlitun North, Kenneth Arrild says he has sold his shares in the business. The Butcher Steakhouse jumped on the scene with its three-kilogram burger last fall but has struggled with service and establishing a steady customer base.

And beer lovers will find that RMB25 bottled Australian beer is back at The Den, though this Workers Stadium East spot has changed distributors and brands. The options include Toohey’s New, Hahn, and XXXX.

City Weekend and beer distributor Dxcel, known best for its Australian and American brews, are teaming up with a dozen Beijing establishments in October for the innaugural Beer Jing festival.

When you drink a Dxcel-distributed beer – say a Brooklyn Lager, Crown, or VB – at one of these dozen spots, you get a stamp in your passport for that place.  Be among the first 20 people to get eight stamps and you will be invited to the Beer Jing party on October 29 at Danger Doyle’s at 7:30 PM*. According to the press release, participants will  “taste some of the most exotic microbrews the world has to offer.”  The doors open to everyone at 9:30 PM and for RMB100 you can drink beer to your liver’s content.

To participate, pick up a “passport” at one of these bars: Danger Doyle’s (map), Rickshaw (map), Kro’s Nest (map), Ned’s (map), Frank’s Place (map), Westside Café, Union Bar and Grill (map), Unconditional Love Coffee (map), The Den (map), Nola, Vineyard Café (map), and Tim’s Texas Barbecue (map).

You can also find good deals on the Beer Jing brews during October at Kro’s Nest every Thursday (five beers for RMB80), at The Den every day (RMB25), and at Nola where prices range from RMB30 for VB to RMB26 for Blue Star. All 12 spots will offer a 20 percent discount on these beers during the “Beer Jing weekend”, October 16 to 18.

* You need at least eight stamps to qualify. Send a scan of your passport to Lee Mack at leemack@cityweekend.com.cn by October 26.

Before I list some bars that will show the Australian Football League final this Saturday, a quick primer – for the newbies – on rugby terminology:

• Goal: When the ball is kicked through the big posts; worth six points.
• Torpedo kick: A kicked ball that spirals through the air.
• Handball: When a ball is “punched” as a way to pass it to another player.
• Double-dingo ticketyboo: Two players giving high-fives after a score.
• One tinnie too many: A player performing as though he had too much beer the night before.
• Going Dame Edna – Cross-dressing on the field.

(Confession: I made up the last three.)

There will be plenty of tinnies – translation: beers – at Danger Doyle’s (map) and The Den (map) for this 12:30 PM match between the Geelong Cats and St. K.F.C. (about the latter team, I feel obliged to make the “can we call them the Holy Fried Chickens” joke). My mate is a huge Geelong fan, which was doing well in its last finals until I showed up and started rooting for them. At that point, they became the equivalent of a row of camels licking the dew off the rail line just as the Indian Pacific train blows through from Sydney to Perth.

The doors open at 11 PM at Danger Doyle’s, which is holding the party with the Beijing Bombers and Australian Chamber of Commerce. Tickets are RMB250 for members, RMB300 for nonmembers, and that gets all-you-can-drink sodas, wine, Aussie beers, and selected cocktails, as well as all-you-can-eat BBQ.

The Den, as evidenced by the huge tarp inside the place, is also going the all-you-can-swallow route, with a menu of meat pies and beers for RMB100.

Winner of the Miss AFL contest (SMH)

A pair of incidents this past week made me think again about value-for-money drinks in Beijing…

One: A visit to The Beach (map) at Block 8 where a bottle of  mass-market Champagne and six tins of local beer cost ~RMB1000. Two: A visit to Fubar (map) where a gin tonic made with Bombay Sapphire cost RMB30.

Different people value different things when it comes to a night out. I don’t put much value in “see and be seen” spots, thus spending a grand to drink a bottle of bubbly served in scratched and scuffed plastic glasses and beer in plastic tumblers on this rooftop is not my thing. (By the way, the average squat-on-a-stool, three-kuai-per-big-bottle-of-Yanjing drink-in-the-street joint in Beijing has better glasses. Maybe The Beach is worried about getting broken glass in the sand, but surely there is an alternative to plastic glasses that look like they went through ten years of use at a summer cottage.)

Anyway, I value things such as an earthy atmosphere, a diverse clientele, and – because I lack unlimited money and a massive expense account – decent drinks at decent prices.

This brings me to the bubbly. Contrary to the pop of its cork, Champagne – as opposed to sparkling wine – generally offers the the smallest bang for the buck of any alcoholic beverage in town. If you are of my mindset, and find it ridiculous to spend ~RMB700 — a typical price at a bar or club — for a bottle of exceedingly average Champagne, here are other ways to spend that cash (I will use some of my favorite spots as examples):

• ~12-15 quality cocktails at Q Bar (map), either while sitting at the long bar or on the sofas inside, or on the new deck outside, which despite its size offers intimacy and no minimum table charge.
• ~10 cocktails at Maison Boulud (map), which makes some of the more interesting drinks in town, including what is among my friends the love-it-or-hate-it Project 23.
• ~20 beers such as James Boag’s or VB either inside or on the deck at Danger Doyle’s (map), at The Den (map), at The Stumble Inn (map), or elsewhere.
• ~3-4 bottles of quality wine from more than a half-dozen countries at the hutong-style Palette Vino (map) in Dongsishitiao.
• 2 bottles of Russian Standard vodka, with mixers, at Chocolate (map).
• 35 shots of homemade rum at Salud (map) in Nanluoguxiang. (Note: the second branch of Salud is slated to open in Sanlitun North, opposite Tongli Studio, later this week.)
  
• 23 gin tonics, made – as noted above – with Bombay Sapphire gin, at the new Fubar (map). Or ~13 Hendrick’s gin tonics for those who want to go upscale.
• ~235 big bottles of Yanjing, in a glass or from the bottle rather than from a scuffed plastic glass, at many of the squat-on-a-stool-outside joints in the city.

You could also go for cocktails at Ruby Khi, downstairs from The Beach. And in defense of The Beach, the place is simply passing on the outrageous price of even the low-end Champagne available in Beijing. If you like bubbles, and care about how much you spend, you are better off finding a sparkling wine you like from Italy, Spain, Australia, or any other number of places.

Or doing your Champagne drinking at Sunday brunches, such as The Westin on Financial Street, when you can stuff your face with food and booze for about half the price of a bottle of Mumm’s or Moet-Chandon at the average club or bar in this city…

Some happenings from the past week or so. As always, click the word “map” beside each venue to get its map, or to get its address sent to your phone for free in either Chinese or English, courtesy of Mobile Native.

Stone Boat (map): A nice crowd on hand Saturday night to watch Panjir play. This is one of the few places in the city center that you can visit and feel you are not, well, in the city center. Good music, good vibe, good times. By the way, based on more than four years of experience, here is a guide to drinks at The Stone Boat: wine = generous pour, beer = average pour, mixed drinks = miserly pour.

Klubb Rouge (map): There is talk of this place, the inactive part of a trio that includes Danger Doyle’s and Drei Kronen 1308, going through a makeover and reopening with a new mission, though a launch would be months down the road. More to come. And once again, kudos to Klubb Rouge for the most surreal PR conference I have attended.

Union (map): If there were an award for the gap between food value and service quality, this place would rank among my favorites. From Toaster-gate and Coffee-gate to the inability of servers to distinguish “rye” from “white” toast to being slow in delivering that initial coffee and then providing refills when only a sip has been taken, this place has had more than its share of moments. To give three example from this past Sunday:

1) The wireless was down for the fourth straight time though a staff member eventually got it working.

2) A friend and I asked for two orders of eggs Benedict and received one order of toast that we were told to share. Shades of Toaster-gate… So if I order an eggs Benedict, I get four pieces of toast, but if we order two eggs Benedict, and thus pay twice as much, we get the same mount of toast?  “If you want more toast, just ask,” I was told. Seriously, if it is a matter of cost, reduce the side of butter, since there is enough there to butter ten slices of bread.

3) Approximate exchange between me and the waitress:

Something to drink?

Coffee.

What kind of coffee?

Just a coffee.

You mean cappucci…

Just a coffee. A regular coffee. Just a regular black coffee.

[Still looks confused]

Could I have the menu, please?

[Hands me a food menu]

Could I have the drinks menu?

[I point to the word "coffee" on the menu]

That one.

Coffee.

Yes, a coffee.

How many?

Seven. No, I am joking. One. One coffee.

I realize these are not huge issues, the staff is very nice, and apparently it was the waitress’s first day. But on the other hand, Union is rather pricey. And if spots such as Le Petit Gourmand can provide decent service, then surely Union can pick up its game. Speaking of which…

Le Petit Gourmand (map): When I couldn’t get wireless at Union on Saturday, I headed here with DJ Chunky. I have written it before, I will write it again – that RMB35 chicken sandwich with salad and fries is a superb deal. But remember: bring an iPod because this spot repeats the same songs over and over and over again, over and over and over again, over and over and over again (ad infinitum).

Cheers (map): This spot, best known its live Xinjiang music on the weekends, is open again, though c0-0wner Leo – and his oil paintings – no longer appear to be in the picture.

Danger Doyle’s (map): Traffic is picking up at this place and it seems to have become a favorite with some of the city’s models on Friday’s ladies night.

The Den (map): For late-night sports viewing, can anyone beat this place? It seems perpetually full whenever there is an event on – whether it be rugby, cricket or the Wimbledon final – and that is most of the time.

Stadium Dog / Fubar: Look for a soft opening of the hot dog joint within the next week or so, with the bar to soon follow.

Kiosk (map): The two-floor second branch of this Nali Studio favorite is open. Look for the bright pink building across from Workers Stadium North and a block east of older Purple Haze. And expect the same high-value burgers.

Solana (map): With the winter blues gone, most seats near that strip along the waterfront – faced by Sex and Da City, HLG, et al – were full Friday night. But expect to drop some coin – we stopped at Lantung where the Corona is RMB45 and a so-s0 Mojito is RMB55.

Cosmo (map): Finding this place open seems to be a hit or miss proposition, as one reader reports dropping by five times and finding it closed on every occasion. Hopefully the kinks are soon worked out.

Pepe’s Pizza (map): Look for this spot to re-open this week with a new design and menu as well as a kid’s party area upstairs where the little ones can make their own pies.

Bling (map): I didn’t make it for the Playboy dancers – I find the stage versions are never as good as the books, uh, I mean, magazines. But an SMS from a fellow bar-goer stated that the dance floor was full of “Russians boogying to ‘Beautiful Girl.’ It’s like Bling and Chocolate have swapped intended clientele”, while another stated that the dancers are “really quite nice. And they claim to have made their wacky go-go costumes themselves.” Since I make my own Speedos, I guess I missed a chance to meet some soul mates…

Le Petit Gourmand (map): Given this place has finally uploaded some new music, and hopefully discarded that CD with a dozen versions of “My Way“, I have renewed hope for world peace, for an end to global warming, and for public relations to send out bar announcements sans smiley faces and multiple exclamation marks. By the way, LPG’s sandwiches, including the club pictured above (RMB44), are tasty, good value, and come with fries and salad.

Union Bar & Grille (map): Despite plans each weekend “to boldy go where no man has gone before”*, I find myself at Union at least once for brunch. The food is consistently good, whether in terms of the basic breakfast, the eggs benedict, or the omelets. And at RMB45-RMB55 per plate, with RMB20 for bottomless coffee, I find it among the best-value brunches in town. Now, if they would only work on the service. (* Star Trek is being released in Beijing this weekend and I had to get in at least one reference. Now, which bar is going to take advantage of this momentous event and come up with a Tribble burger?)

Danger Doyle’s (map): Love the Monday free pizza deal (management says it gave out 85 pies last night), like the beer selection and the rooftop, and I might someday enjoy the ladies night if there were more females there than at Destinations on a given night (true, I arrived with DJ Chunky around 1 AM, but still…). DD’s also has the NBA channel which means people can catch basketball games that air after 10 AM (that’s when the place opens).

Note: I have also caught NBA games at The Goose and Duck (open 24 hours, though the slingbox feed for the last game was choppy), The Rickshaw (which has the NBA channel and is open early mornings), and The Den (which airs the games shown on CCTV and Bensports, though the latter service is unfortunately down at the moment).

Maxim’s Solana (map): I went to the launch of online vino retailer mywineshop on Sunday. The cool weather made that new hedged-in patio an enjoyable place to try a half-dozen wines and mow down a heap of appetizers – the locally produced foie gras was particularly good.

The Den (map): Same old, same old. By the way, I am not a big fan of interventions, but if anyone sees me going solo on The Den deep-fried combo again, please get out the tranquilizer gun.

ex-Cross Club (map): This spot is on the verge of reopening and I hope the decor inside is a few steps above the rainbow colored lights outside. People tell me the guys behind Cappuccino, the currently gutted bar that is on the northernmost  corner of Sanlitun Bar Street and best known for oudoor lights that emulate the LED equalizer lights on a stero, are involved. Can anyone confirm this?

The Irish Volunteer (map): See here.

In the latest installment of the “top five watering holes” series, Brandon Chemers, avid sports fan, man about town, and author of brand spanking new Beijing soccer blog “Gongti Legends“, provides his picks for the best places to grab a drink in town.

The Den (map)
Frequented by everyone from hipsters to hookers, The Den is an excellent spot for people watching. They totally miss the definition of “happy HOUR” by holding it daily from 5 PM to 10 PM (including weekends) – and I thank them for that. Their food isn’t the greatest, but it isn’t bad, especially considering the price. It is also sort of a security blanket: despite all the changes over the years to our fair city, The Den continues going strong, and sometimes even improving (the newer, bigger windows), while retaining what we’ve all come to expect. I have lots of great memories tied to the place and it is a great meet-up spot before an event (like a Guoan soccer match) at Workers Stadium. They have quirky policies and mediocre (at best) service, but when you can get a beer and a pizza for under RMB50, it’s hard to complain.

Enoteca (map)
I can understand all those who complain about The Place. It’s hellish getting cabs there a lot of the time, but Enoteca is close to my office and an honest to goodness wine bar, something Beijing doesn’t have a lot of (there are other options, but few stay open as late). The lounge has a cool feel to it, like it wouldn’t be out of place in any other major city, and the music is very chill. They sometimes even have live acts that are usually pretty good. There are plenty of bottles below RMB200 and they have a really excellent rose that is great on a hot summer day.

Mix (map)
While technically not a “bar”, it is a place where massive quantities of alcohol are consumed on a nightly basis. This is another place that has been going strong for a number of years. Sure, they play the same music over and over again (often during the same night), security can get a little over the top, and the interior probably hasn’t been cleaned since opening night, but it’s a fun place to go, dance, and drink. The drink of choice is typically bottled beer or the popular whiskey and green (or red) tea cocktails, and the music is decent (if too commercial) hip hop and R&B. Somehow it is packed almost every night with a largely Chinese crowd. Over the years I’ve spent a few too many nights there but it has always been fun.

Er Jie (across from Hotel Kapok, Dong Hua Men Jie)
Okay, so it is even less of a bar than Mix, but again it is a place where massive amounts of alcohol are consumed. This neighborhood hole in the wall offers decent food and you see a lot of the same people if you go there often. It also serves as a spot for the neighborhood guys to stop in and get away from their wives for a few hours or for people who have just finished a late shift and want to relax. They offer Qingdao and Yanjing, both at RMB4 for a large bottle, and offer baijiu by the liang. There’s a great chuanr and chicken wing guy close by who will deliver and the food the restaurant serves is great drinking food. It’s the place I go to when I want to eat, drink, and chat with a friend or four for a couple of hours.

Centro (map)
I had a hell of a time thinking of a fifth bar because the first four truly stand out and because there are so many places that are just okay or that I haven’t visited to really claim love for (like Chocolate). I’m going with an easy choice: Centro is really close to my office and so it’s a nice place to pop in for a drink after work and still get home in time for dinner. During happy hour, their drinks are reasonably priced and are done very well. Plus, it is one of the few places that offers snacks with the beverages, a nice touch. (If Saddle still offered popcorn, maybe I’d have gone with that place.) It is also interesting to look around and seeing people who are important or simply think they are important in the Beijing expat scene.

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Top fives:

• Jon, Jackson, Richard, Adam, Andy of RandomK(e)
• Andrew Schorr & Ellis Rahhal
• Pete Demola
• Shane Crombie
• Ben Shaw
• Kaiser Kuo
• Bjorn Stabell
• Phoebe Wong
• Diane Fermin
• Badr Benjelloun
• Elisabeth Tchoudjinoff & Katrina Arndt
• Paul Adkins
• Chandler Jurinka
• Kevin Shen
• Steven Schwankert

Mondays nights should mean a relaxing meal, perhaps a drink or two, and turning in early. Unless you end up with  DJ Chunky, Dr Doom, Mr Brau, and B-Daze. Then it means shooting the shit, shooting homemade rum,  and shooting down any hopes of getting home before the wee hours of the morning. Places visited…

Lugar (map): With the pool table eliminated downstairs, this place now has a slight Le Petit Gourmand feel, one that would be strengthened if those empty shelves end up lined with books. I could see myself popping in to check my email or read a book, then sampling some of the signature cocktails or dozens of single malts. The rooftop offers views of the surrounding hutongs and sports new furniture,  including patio-style chairs and tables, although sitting atop the glass floor is a bit unnerving.

The food menu has shifted from Vietnamese and Taiwanese snacks to salads, sandwiches, pastas, and the like. One patron found the lasagna tasty, while I thought the bread used for my sandwich too dry. Finally, the service could be better. The staff is friendly, but the two dozen people gathered on the roof for a “tweet-up” – a gathering of Twitter users – too often found themselves with empty bottles and glasses, to the point that people had to go downstairs to refresh their drinks.

Salud (map) (also known as e.a.t.): We sauntered down Nanluoguxiang and found that places either had a decent crowd (Reef Bar, Guitar Bar, Salud, etc) or were pretty much empty. We parked at Salud and did a few rounds of the homemade infused rums. I liked the Salud special, with its spicy aromas (cumin, cloves, etc) and strong cinnamon finish. The orange and clove would be better with added citrus power to balance the spices (add more rinds to the recipe?).

Chocolate (map): DJ Chunky, Mr Brau, and I figured this would be the one place with a solid crowd and we were right.

Maggie’s (map): The previous venue on Workers Stadium East had an earthy atmosphere that the newer spot on Ritan Park has been unable to evoke. The place is well-designed, with the traditional painted ceiling beams exposed, the bar nicely lit, and seating options that include lounge areas, a square bar, and space near the dance floor. And the service is quick and professional. It simply misses the vibe of the old place.

The Den (map): A final pit stop for fuel. As always, a late night at The Den draws a clientele almost as diverse as that at the Star Wars Cantina. I went for the least healthy item on the menu – The Den combo – which includes deep-fried mushrooms, potatoes, spring rolls, and two or three other items. There is no faster way to end a night than to put yourself into a food coma…

Jet lag meant I tumbled out of bed at 9:30 PM on New Year’s Eve and got a late start on the festivities. But better late than never, as they say, and it turned out to be a most excellent night that involved my favorite new bar, my all-time favorite bar, and some of my favorite people.

I made it to TUN just after 11 PM. This is my favorite new bar because it has value-for-money drinks, friendly management, a relatively efficient bar staff, a large space that somehow manages to offer a degree of coziness, and a diverse and unpretentious crowd. Plus, it is within walking distance of my apartment.

Wednesday night found it crowded, but not uncomfortably so, and within minutes I ran into a fellow blogger, a former intern, a handful of regulars, and numerous bar and restaurant acquaintances, including former Pavillion / Browns / Frank’s Place / Paddy O’Shea’s manager Glenn Phelan, who provided the musical touch for the night. Good times! A countdown clock took us into 2009 accompanied by a blast of confetti and – true to the spirit of this bar – cans of sparkling wine (I tried the rose and Chardonnay, and recommend neither).

I then hustled down the street to Q Bar. I have known bartenders / owners George Zhou and Echo Sun since when they worked at First Café, which ranks as my all-time favorite Beijing bar (see video below). A solid crowd here, too, though one that allowed enough space to squeeze in at the bar and order drinks, including a New Year’s Eve tradition – The Alfonso Special. I ran into fellow First Cafe drinking buddies Agent Red Wolf and O-Zone, regular blog contributor p3wong, and numerous other acquaintances. Good times, again!

I next hustled back to TUN, passing Glen and Beer Mania, in front of which was parked the longest limousine I have seen in Beijing (New Year’s resolution number one: buy one of these to save on taxi fares). The crowd at TUN remained undiminished and the party continued until near sunrise, with the owners and employees of other bars and restaurants showing up during the wee hours of the morning. I spent a chunk of my time pleading with blues outfit Black Cat Bone to do a show at this place. Yep, more good times.

And with the breakfast hour nearing, I joined a flow of TUN attendees who headed to The Den for food. This place serves my favorite late night / early morning pub grub, whether it is bangers and mash, four-cheese pizzas, or deep-fried combos. Those seeking a final fill-up before starting a New Year’s diet would have done well here. All in all, a good end to what has been a tumultuous year for Beijing and its bar scene.

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Unexpected hygiene-related event of the night: When the spouse of a certain bar manager parked outside the men’s room at TUN for 30 minutes or so and suggested that those exiting without washing their hands go back and become acquainted with soap and water, thus suggesting a possible New Year’s resolution for said offenders. As noted before, my general observation is that about half of male patrons do not wash their hands after using the toilet, which means you want to be careful with whom you share those complimentary peanuts.

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A “video” I made a few years ago about First Cafe…

A Tuesday night pub crawl is usually a bad idea, but sometimes – as with meteor strikes, power outages, and wedgies – it just happens. Such forays are increasingly rare for me, with last night being an exception. Here are the places visited, with a two-sentence write-up for each.

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Duck de Chine (1949: The Hidden City): I met a group of foodies and we sampled wines from Yunnan, Ningxia, and Hebei provinces and ate a tasty duck dinner (thanks to Justin Quek of Le Platane). Ducky does not describe the service, however, as the staff struggled to handle our pre-dinner drinks and understand requests (we asked for spittoons several times and kept receiving ice buckets full of cubes; we asked for another bottle of wine and received our bill; etc).

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1/5 (1949: The Hidden City): We dropped in for Guinness and were (mis?) treated to some music that would make my “worst eighties” list. This place has the kind of decor and vibe that would make it appropriate for corporate types cutting loose.

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TUN: Open Mic nights are a lot like golf – even if you have a horrible round, a birdie or two will inspire you to at least save one club from the lake and come back and play. Given that, there were a few triple bogeys last night that saw things proceed slower than usual, though two Tsingtao for RMB15 goes a long way in terms of compensation.

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Maggie’s: A return visit to make sure the opening wasn’t a fluke. Nope, aside from the airier layout, things were pretty much same old, same old, with a decent crowd for a Tuesday, though it seemed ladies outnumbered gents (by the way, were the wine markups always upwards of 400 to 500 percent?).

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Goose n’ Duck: Pretty much empty after midnight, which means we had the table top hockey and pitching cage all to ourselves! I like this place – the food is decent, there are plenty of seating options, a good smattering of TVs, etc – but I miss the convenience of the old spot near Chaoyang Park.

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The Den: About 25 to 30 people were settled in and throwing down drinks, which the reliable staff ensured were available in ample supplies along with decent pub grub (deep-fried combo: yum). I noticed people who had been at Maggie’s earlier in the night trickling in as we headed out…

The Rickshaw has joined the Sanlitun burger battle in what is a shining example of how quickly the scene has changed this year. In the past three months, we have witnessed new places such as Blue Frog (RMB75), Union Bar & Grill (RMB86), and Let’s Burger (RMB68) push up burger and fries prices, other newcomers such as Luga’s Villa (RMB35) take the budget route, and longer-term spots such as The Den and The Rickshaw dig in as things suddenly became very competitive.

The Rickshaw, which annoyed some regulars during the Olympics with a 15-percent surcharge that has since been rescinded, is upping its game. It has introduced three burgers and a sandwich, all priced at RMB55 and including thick-cut fries. Nick Ma gave me a taste test of the quartet on Sunday.

The two beef burgers include The Americano, which Ma says is made with local organic meat and served on a poppy seed bun, and the Oz, a “classic Australian burger.” The latter includes a flame-broiled bun, cheddar cheese, and sliced canned beetroot topped with a hamburger patty topped with a pineapple ring cooked together with egg topped with bacon, lettuce and tomato. As the toppings indicate, the portion is substantial.

The Steak Rambo Sambo is a steak sandwich served with rocket lettuce on sour dough bread, while The China Special is chicken breast marinated in spices, and topped with sautéed onions, green peppers, and gong bao chicken sauce. Ma says crushed peanuts are embedded in the chicken before flame-broiling.

So, how do they taste? Here are my rankings:

1. Oz burger: Besides including the “bacon factor”, the pineapple, egg, tomato et al make for an interesting blend of flavors and textures, though I found the bun too sweet (I suggest keeping the poppy seeds and reducing the sugar).
2. China Special: The chicken is tender and juicy, and the spices leave a nice tingly aftertaste.
3. Steak sandwich: Sour dough bread, mmm, though a bit higher meat-to-bun ration would be nice.
4. Americano burger: For a stripped-down burger such as this, the bun is simply too sweet.

By the way, The Rickshaw has added new wing flavors, though the medium Buffalo style and others will remain. They include apple vinegar, cream cheese and tomato, maple syrup and chili, and Brandy Dijon.

Finally, here are a few pictures courtesy of my K-Touch, which is most excellent as a phone and most frustrating as a camera. Just imagine these burgers look about twice as good as the photos.

The Americano Burger

The Rickshaw Oz Burger

Eleven PM, just ten days after an opening bash that saw people flank to shank, and Klubb Rouge is… empty? Well, not totally – about 20 patrons are scattered on the main floor in pockets of resistance, but that’s a pretty light turnout this early into the game.

Optimists might argue that potential patrons are having visa problems or off to that beach party by The Great Wall or haven’t heard of the place or something. But methinks we are witnessing the club version of the Kerry Center Corollary : a hotel bar opens, it offers drinks, décor and/or prices to rival Centro , people go once or maybe twice, and then they return to Centro because at least the place is reliably busy .

Given Klubb Rouge’s private rooms , lounges, and decks, its long bar headed by a dance floor, and the massive pillars featuring illuminated images of soft-porn versions of 1930s Shanghai advert models, the rival here would seem to be Suzie Wong . Well, except when it comes to drinks – a martini won’t run you RMB80 at Suzie’s.

Klubb Rouge has a big space , a friendly staff , an excellent sound system and, from that rooftop, a good view . Perhaps the official launch of its deck tonight will help the place find its niche and paint the town red.

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Over at the recently opened China Doll in the 3.3 Building, the lounge is nearly empty, but the main bar and dance floor are busy. This club starts with several advantages: 1) it is a brand ; 2) its management includes people (notably Ai Wan ) who are able to draw crowds and/or media attention; 3) it has a lot of investors who, at least early on, will drag along their friends and acquaintances.

No doubt, China Doll has its problems, but it provides something that overcomes them – fun . So, the sound system’s bass might result in an annoying molar-shaking rattle at times, but the music is fun. The layout might have too many steps on which to trip, but the colors, textures, and design are fun. And so on. About the only thing that isn’t fun is security guards, who look a bit menacing.

The vibe here is notably different from Club China Doll , which is darker and more music-focused. Cooler heads prevailing, there should be enough space in Sanlitun for the two dolls to do well.

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At 2 AM, we hit The Den . Ranking among the oldest bars in Beijing, this place is generally a source of decent service and pub grub, notably the four-cheese pizzas , the hamburgers with fried egg on top, and the combo platters.

Earlier, I popped into Aperitivo for a drink. This is the kind of Saturday night spot where you show up, chat with your mates, don’t meddle in strangers’ business, and stumble home a few hours later.

- And I started the night at Rumi , where I had my fill of food (great beef and chicken!) and sampled three red wines from Hungary and an ice wine from Xinjiang . I’ll have more of these soon.

Before I give a wrap-up of Super Bowl viewing venues…

The New England Patriots lost the game – as well as the first 19-0 season – and it is easy to place the blame. Most would cite the Patriots failure to stop the New York Giants from scoring a crucial touchdown in the dying minutes. The truth is more nuanced. It is found in Beijing, in a bar called The Goose and Duck, on the body of one man – R.C. Robinson (hereafter known as He Who Shall Be Blamed / HWSBB).

Let me provide you the play by play. The Giants lead 10-7 in the fourth and final quarter. The Patriots piece together a stirring touchdown drive that gives them a 14-10 lead, a drive that inspired HWSBB to yell I believe a half-dozen times, with 2:42 left to play. The Giants need to do what seems near impossible – march the length of the field against the NFL’s best team to score a touchdown and regain the lead.

HWSBB is ecstatic. He wears an off-white cabled sweater – The Sweater – with a large Patriots sticker on the front. He wore it when he arrived, he wore it during the first three quarters, he wore it when the Patriots scored. Now he does the inexplicable. He takes off The Sweater!

Nearby Patriots fans sense a jinx factor. “The Sweater is lucky!” “Hey, don’t change anything until we win!” “Put The Sweater back on.” “If you don’t wear The Sweater and the Patriots lose, I’ll write a post about how it was entirely your fault.” That last one comes from me.

Not only does he not put The Sweater on, but he drapes it over a chair after he peels off the lucky Patriots sticker!

A few minutes later, the Giants quarterback miraculously evades a handful of groping Patriots and hurls a pass to a heavily covered receiver who catches it against his helmet and maintains his grip while falling to the ground in what is known in wrestling circles as a back-breaker. The Giants score, ruin the Patriots perfect season, and it’s all due to HWSBB and The Sweater.* (I don’t expect this will tarnish his sterling community service record of charity fund-raisers, entertainment events, and entrepreneur programs.)

On to the venues:

The Rickshaw – By game time, the place had not an empty seat and offered all the promise of a raucous morning. I stood on the steps, one eye watching the game and the other watching meal after meal whip by. You simply could not comfortably add more people, unless you put some chairs and a TV set on the roof for the die hards. Hey, not a bad idea.

Hooters – The place had no signal and this translated into a lot of disgruntled fans. About 30 people remained into the second quarter, eating breakfast and hoping the game would come on. I have a hunch that Hooters may be the victims of playing by the rules.

Here’s why. Two years ago, I helped organize a Super Bowl party at a hotel for the Seattle-Pittsburgh game. A venue check the night before found everything ready, NFL China donated footballs, mini-helmets, and silver coins as prizes, an ex-Seattle Seahawks cheerleader agreed to give them out, and the breakfast buffet the next morning looked great. We watched the pre-game show and as it approached kick-off time, the channel switched to… swimming. (Backstroke, I believe.) ESPN Star Sports in Singapore listed the game as available in China. It wasn’t and the hotel had no legal means of getting the signal. I’m not sure if this happened with Hooters – I’ll try to find out.

The Den – Just as I went through the threshold, an employee jutted his hand in front of me and at a sign that read, “RMB 50 – breakfast, including coffee and tea.” The Den, which typically offers good service inside, seems to have lost a few steps at the door of late in Ye Olde Hospitality Department.

The Pavillion – About 20 to 25 people gathered in an area adjacent to the bar to watch the game. I grabbed a coffee and watched the rest of the second quarter.

Then, as I have for the past three Super Bowls, I jumped in a cab and headed for the Goose and Duck / that’s Beijing party. This is the first one to be held in Goose and Duck’s new digs and the place is vast to say the least. I would guess more than 300 people had seats with a decent view of that thrilling finish, after which HWSBB finally put on The Sweater.

* On the other hand, he could make a killing on E-bay by selling The Sweater to giddy Giants fan.

The Cellar Rat and I did a quick walkabout last week. Here’s an equally quick write-up:

Toper: The beers are fresh and only 25 kuai for 300 ML / 35 kuai for 500 ML. This place is small – a few meters wide and a dozen deep – and slightly over the top with the mirrors and gilt picture frames, though it is nice to see the copper tanks. The staff speaks little English. A bottle of Dragon Seal red table wine is 188 kuai – I’d stick to the brew.

Kokomo: The deck is enclosed, which is good for keeping out the cold, but bad for air circulation. I don’t know, but the dim lighting / loud music combination doesn’t work for me, although the place does make a decent Mai Tai.

Golden: It’s in the same space as Taniwha, but with WAY more shiny stuff. We decided to move on…

Q Bar: Is it me or do the owners seem more inclined to play DJ than bartender? Even so, the staff is adept at mixology and this place is hard to beat for a good drink in Beijing.

The Den: According to a sign out front, the cover is RMB 30 and gets you a drink. According to our experience, walking away gets that cover reduced to zero. The Cellar Rat describes the Den as “a poor man’s Suzie Wong’s”, though I find it great for late-night eats. I’ve heard a few people criticize the service there, but I’ve never had a problem. The staff may not always gush with enthusiasm, but it is polite and efficient.

After our recent Go North Campaign, The Cellar Rat and I stayed closer to home. I decided to give an award to each place. (Note: This is part two of two. See part 1 here.)

Hard Rock Café: the place a lone male is most likely to feel as though he were a stray wildebeest trailed by a pack of hungry hyenas
I’d heard good things about the burger and band at Hard Rock Cafe, but perhaps post-10 PM on a Sunday night is not the best time to check these out. Let me set the stage: there were four male customers (including us) and 25 women, seemingly not customers, aggressively pursuing them.

These women were totally relentless. Uttering “I am not interested”, “I am a eunuch” and “We’re not the right star signs” had zero effect. I’ve nothing against someone plying their trade but when it is obvious said service is unwanted and the service providers not only continue unabated, but also the staff of the bar, which charges 60 kuai per pint, does nothing to alleviate the situation, then it’s time to go.

Note 1: Those so inclined can buy their Hard Rock Café merchandise near the door, thus being able to sidestep the scene inside.

Note 2: This place is cavernous and worth a look, although if you are innocently gazing about, you might quickly find some unwanted arms around your waist. Remain vigilant!

Passion: the highest ratio of entry fee per bottle of Chill
This is the old Hed Kandi space. It’s plush, mod and you can chat up a woman who could pass as, and might possibly be during the day, a model. That is, if you are willing to part with 300 kuai for the honor. The 100-kuai entry fee entitles you to a soft drink or a bottle of Chill that you can enjoy while watching high rollers play dice games and chat with said models while being mesmerized by the lights. The door staff eyed me with one of those “this isn’t really your place” looks – I think it might have been my fake wool jacket (I don’t mean the jacket was a fake, I mean it wasn’t real wool, so save your emails IPR fanatics).

Check this one off the list and move on.

The Den: best menu item to make sure your heart keeps up to your liver in the “which one will give out first” sweepstakes
How many places have stuck it out in Beijing as long as The Den? Not many. The service is good, the food is ideal for satiating late-night hunger, and the place is grungy enough that no one cares about the ketchup stain you got on your shirt from that Hard Rock Café burger (if you have one, that is). The Den, if anything, is dependable.

The Cellar Rat and I ordered the mixed platter, which includes a half-dozen deep-fried items – mushrooms et al – and is tasty with a couple of beers. We skipped the Chill and then ate our weight in calories and went home.

9:15 PM, The Den, second floor

Blogging live with Special K and Miss P from the brand new second floor of The Den, which the staff inform us – with some arm twisting – we are the first to patronize. Special K had the first Carlsberg poured. Unfortunately, no one else is upstairs to celebrate with us, but the first floor is packed. Susan, the lone employee up here, is incredibly friendly, in case anyone from The Den’s management is reading. She informs us that more people will soon be up here and, lo and behold, customers four and five just showed up.

By the way, we just left Hooters, which was also packed.

The crowd was diverse, with plenty of younger Chinese and numerous families, and had a good vibe. I think this place is easier to grasp if you consider the Hooters girls simply as cheerleaders who occasionally smack into one other when they do their collective dances. By the way, they almost have “Mickey” down.

We stuck to beer, although you get ten free wings if you order a bottle of Dom Perignon – we recommend the crispy-skinned ones for your champers. We watched televised sports included women’s softball, women’s nine-ball, and guys racing cars with trailers attached to them.

All in all, better than I expected, though Special K was upset about something that we can currently and possibly never ever talk about (more details later).

Bar and club owners and employees were out in force at the Kunlun Hotel two weeks ago for the annual that’s Beijing awards. More than 30 establishments took home prizes in 20 categories that each included a winner and two or three honorable mentions (HMs). Centro (4 wins, 2 HMs), Suzie Wong (3 wins, 2 HMs) and Browns (2 wins, 4 HMs) led the way, followed by Bed (2 wins, 1 HM), Pavillion (three HMs) and Aria (3 HMs). Bar Blu and The Tree each won two categories. None of the winners seemed unduly unjustified, although I was surprised that Bar Blu won for best outdoor space, given that its deck has been halved since last year and there has been a recent (perhaps too recent) proliferation of excellent patios and rooftops. The place obviously has a loyal clientele, so good on them. The winners, with honorable mentions in parentheses:

Bar/Club of the Year: Browns (Centro, Suzie Wong’s) 

After-Hours Club: Suzie Wong’s (Bed, Maggie’s) 

Bar Snacks: The Tree (Souk, The Den) 

Beer Selection: The Tree (Beer Mania, Browns) 

Cocktails: Centro (Alfa, Q Bar) 

Dance Club: Vics (Babyface, Coco Banana, Destination) 

Decor: Bed (Redmoon, Suzie Wong’s) 

Cheap Drinks: Nanjie (Black Sun Bar, Kai) 

People Watching: Suzie Wong’s (Browns, Maggie’s) 

Happy Hour: Bar Blu (Browns, Centro) 

Hotel Bar: Centro (Aria, Redmoon) 

Live Music: Yugong Yishan (D-22, Icehouse) 

New Bar: Browns (D-22, Frank’s Place) 

Outdoor Terrace: Bar Blu (Pavillion, Stone Boat) 

Business Networking: Centro (Aria, Pavillion, The Bookworm) 

Place to Bring a Date: Bed (No Name Bar, Souk) 

Place to Find a Date: Suzie Wong’s (Browns, Destination) 

Sports Bar: Goose & Duck Pub (ClubFootball, Pavillion) 

Student Hangout: Lush (Kai, Propaganda)

Wine Selection: Centro (Aria, CourtYard, The Cellar)

Afterwards, I ended up at Indian Kitchen for dinner (this place should get an HM for Best Dance Club given the number of people bopping about) and then popped into Q Bar to congratulate bartenders-owners George Zhou and Echo Sun, who were prominently displaying their HM for best cocktails (not bad for a month-old bar), and to meet Roger Dutton and Kevin McCartan of Frank’s Place, which received its own HM in the best new bar category. Congratulations to all of the winners and the honorable mentions.

(From Beijing Boyce XXI, first emailed on July 27, 2006)

that’s Beijing announces its annual bars and clubs awards tonight. Below, in capital letters, are the places I think deserve to win (all in my extremely humble opinion, of course).

Hotel Bar

I usually frequent hotel bars for work-related reasons and have to give Centro credit: there is always a decent number of people, usually decent martinis and sometimes decent live jazz. In terms of slickness, it’s about as dependable as Beijing bars get. Expect this category to be much more crowded next year with new bars in the Crowne Plaza, Hilton and other hotels competing against older ones such as Centro, Hyatt’s Redmoon and Shangri La’s Cloud Nine.

Bar Snacks

Saddle (burritos) and Fish Nation (our fine-finned friend with chips) both offer good filler in Sanlitun north, Bellagio has the Taiwanese angle covered, Cafe Pause, while technically not a bar, has tasty snacks up in the 798 Art District, and there are innumerable kebab stands where night owls may bulk up on meat and fat, not to mention a week’s worth of salt. Decent eats these are all, but I’m giving a slight edge to two places: Mojito, which despite it’s somewhat car-park like feel offers up the super tasty Mexican hamburger, and The Den, which pumps out the pizza and deep-fried goodies 24/7.

Place to Dance

A few years ago I did the White Man Shuffle as well as any endomorph. Alack and alas, I have now regressed to a mere wiggle, usually in the shadows, and what could be more ideal than a place where everyone else’s eyes are glued to the writhers busting moves on the bar top. The award thus goes to Browns, with honorable mentions to Suzie Wong’s and Maggie’s.

Cheap drinks

Phil’s Pub: A standout among the plethora of 10-kuai drink joints, with friendly owners, a decent layout and better-than-average drinks, not to mention a convenient location just 200 yards from my apartment (how selfish). Plus, the place lets patrons order in kebabs.

People Watching

Apertivo, No-name Bar, Centro, Maggie’s and numerous other places all merit mention in this tough category, but if a winner must be named, and if it counts as a bar, this award goes to The Bookworm, where you can not only scope out the patrons, but also overhear phone calls and conversations, discover a potential mate’s reading preferences (“Dan Brown? Next!“), and see if their caffeine fix comes from lattes, Diet Cokes or Irish coffees. (Yes, yes, The Bookworm is not exactly a bar or club, but they do sell ample quantities of beer, wine and cocktails, and besides, that’s Beijing has the place listed on its ballot, so blame them!)

Happy Hour

Centro offers great high-end value with their two-for-one cocktails, Beer Mania has 500 ML of Belgian draft for 40 kuai and discounted bottled Belgian Beer until 8 PM, The Den offers two-for-one pizza and beer, and Cheers pours two Wild Turkey shots for 30 RMB until 10 PM. What makes a happy hour superior depends on where you feel comfortable and what you like to drink, and the places all above excel in their own ways, so this is a four-way tie.

Best Outdoor

Another tough category, with contenders such as Bar Blu and Top Club (nice rooftops, same building), Q Bar (an even bigger rooftop, though the chairs are a bit hard), Hai Bar (a dark horse that offers cheap beers and views of Houhai on one side and the drum and bell towers on the other), Nuage (the same views, but fancier decor and higher prices), Suzie Wong’s (a nice getaway from the crowds inside, plus some of the best plastic plants in town), and The Pomegranate (for those in Shunyi). But the best of the bunch are Stone Boat, a small Qing-dynasty era spot set on a pond surrounded by trees and rocks in central Beijing‘s Ritan Park, and The Pavillion, with a lovely backyard made extremely cozy with comfortable wicker seating, elegant trees, and mellow lighting.

Business Networking

For drawing a diverse crowd that includes business executives, English teachers, homemakers, writers, MBA students and most everyone else, the award should go The Bookworm. There is no place, except perhaps for First Cafe last year, where I have made more connections.

Best Place for a Date

Le Cafe Igosso: Above-average food and a good wine list in a low-pressure atmosphere. If you’re looking at a Sunday afternoon, rather than a weekday dinner, then it’s No Name Bar. And if it’s an evening drink, rather than a meal, try the Q Bar, although going through that somewhat seedy hotel in which it is located might send some messages (possibly wanted, possibly not) to your significant other.

Student Hangout

The Loo: A bar that is long-closed and from another lifetime (not to mention another country). For this category, I’ll make like a soccer player and pass.

Best Beer

Browns, for its draft selection (including recent additions Stella Artois and Beck’s), and Beer Mania for its wide range of bottled Belgian beers and its Belgian draft.

Best Cocktails

This depends more on the bartenders than the establishments. I’ve had solid drinks at Centro, great mint-based cocktails at Garden of Delights, and some good but cheap beverages, courtesy of Sally and Alex at Phil’s Pub. I also remember tasty cocktails at Alfa, Jazz Ya, Browns (hit and miss), 5:19, The Big Easy, and places too numerous to mention. But in the end, only one place consistently pumps out a wide range of high-quality drinks, and thus the award goes to George Zhou and Echo Sun at Q Bar.

Bar of the Year

This bar has raised its beer prices, lost key staff, struggled with its interior decorating, dealt with DJ turmoil, faced numerous other challenges and, despite it all, had a greater impact on Beijing’s drinking scene than any other establishment in the past year. This bar has exerted influence because it consistently provides good clean fun, because it scores well in terms of design, atmosphere, food and beer selection, and because it is frequented by a sizeable number of the city’s bar owners, managers and employees. Love it or hate it, this bar has firmly planted itself in the party landscape, providing not only great value for patrons, but also food for thought for those in the industry, and this combination should earn it the bar of the year award. This bar is Browns.

(From Beijing Boyce XX, first emailed on July 13, 2006)

Here are (mostly) brief write-ups on the various venues at which I’ve watched World Cup games.

BROWNS

Germany vs. Costa Rica: This place was wild during the game and the party rocked on afterwards as the (mostly German) fans made ample use of the beer taps and the bar top. The usually empty back room was packed with chairs, tables and patrons. Browns has three huge screens and plenty of small ones, has recently added Beck’s and Stella Artois to its draft beer selection, and gives out handy World Cup schedules. I’ve generally heard good reports from readers about this place.

THE PAVILLION

Serbia and Montenegro vs. Netherlands: The front end of what is arguably the best patio in town was fairly full, with a handful of people inside. The food was limited to a BBQ buffet, which was disappointing, because I had been craving nachos on the way over. Qingdao was on special. The Pavillion has two big projection screens outside and ample smaller screens inside. It’s one of the more relaxing places in town, though I’ve heard mixed reviews about the service.

THE DEN

Iran vs. Mexico: The tasty four-cheese pizza and cold Qingdao was offset by loud dance music (Ace of Base anyone?), which meant no commentary, which helps explain why the place was nearly empty, which was unfortunate as this was a great game. The service was good.

BEER MANIA

England vs. Paraguay: A bit smaller and more subdued than the average venue, this is a cozy place to watch games while quaffing Delirium Tremors (both blond and dark). The owners recently installed a decent-sized projection screen, though I unfortunately caught what was arguably the most game so far on it.

JOHN BULL PUB

Australia vs. Japan: While a small group watched the small bar-side TV upstairs, a handful of us waited by the big screen as two employees futilely tried to get the projector working. I spent 15 minutes watching as they flicked buttons, a waitress shrugged her shoulders and a rough-looking patron yelled about “Dongbei ren” at his acquaintance, then gave myself a red card and left.

W SPORTS BAR

Australia vs. Japan: About 50 boisterous Australian fans were enjoying, on two big screens, a late rally and win by their team (Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, oy, oy, oy!). The staff here can handle a bottle opener, but don’t think of asking anything as complicated as, “Is there a World Cup special?” As the only Swedish bar in town, W sends emails calling those from the land of ABBA for their home games.

PHIL’S PUB

South Korea vs. Togo: The number of teams playing in this game, two, was equal to the number of patrons at the bar. It was me and M-Dawg, and his presence had less to do with watching football (Chinese commentary), than with Phil’s letting us to order yangrou chuar from next door. That didn’t stop M-Dawg, who has a friend from Togo, from positing that football is the primitive forerunner of basketball. “At one point, thousands of years ago, a player decided to pick up the ball and throw it into the net, but they found that was too easy, so they made the net smaller and put it into the air, and that’s how we got basketball.” Perhaps, in light of this (voiced) theory, the lack of patrons / football fans was fortuitous.

THE PAVILLION

Spain vs. Ukraine: I went there for work-related reasons and stuck around for the game. The patio was half-full, with seats at the picnic tables available, and the barbecue sizzling away. Pavillion has set up a temporary bar, with four or five draft taps, outside.

FRANK’S PLACE

Ecuador vs. Costa Rica: A friend and I popped into the reincarnation of Beijing’s oldest non-hotel bar. He was impressed with the live guitarist before the game (tunes ranging from Neil Young‘s “Harvest Moon” to John Lennon‘s “Jealous Guy”), the screen on the sparsely populated deck out back (“If you could accuse that screen of anything, you could say you’ve never seen such a clear projection“) and the deck itself (“awesome”). And rather than whisking away my glass and its last swig, as is so common, the waiter asked if I had finished it. Nice.

Unfortunately, this was the exception rather than the rule. The staff didn’t know the price of the special (BBQ plus one Carlsberg for 60 kuai) and first forgot our beer, then our food, then our utensils. They took my after-dinner drink order but not my friend’s, charged us for a Guinness we didn’t drink, wrongly recalculated our bill, and forgot my receipt. As for the drinks, my friend’s two Whisky Sodas looked and tasted completely different, and my Martini came with a massive lemon slice on the rim (!), though the Long Island was decent.

This first experience of the fully functioning Frank’s was slightly surprising given the bar’s team of expatriate employees, numerous investors with Beijing bar scene knowledge, and seemingly eager local employees, including a number plucked from Browns. Several readers have cited similar service problems, though I’ve also indirectly heard that Frank’s is a great place to watch the World Cup, especially since there are eight TVs inside in addition to the one out back (there is also a two-for-one special on Heineken). This is still a nice place to watch games and let’s hope they get the kinks worked out with service soon.

RITAN PARK CENTRAL COMPOUND

England vs. Trinidad and Tobago: I envisioned a garbage-strewn field surrounded by pungent portable toilets, but instead found the one must-visit venue for World Cup viewing. The games are shown in the central compound, on the altar once used for sacrifices to the Sun god, where two big screens are mounted. One has English commentary and the other Chinese commentary, making it amusing as those watching the latter wait in anticipation every time they hear the cheers and groans of those watching the former. The compound is surrounded by circular walls, adorned with Chinese carvings, surrounded by trees. Call it a giant yurt with the top down. There is plenty of seating, all the Qingdao (15 kuai) you could want, and Mojitos (25 kuai), Espresso (around 15 kuai), pizza and more from Havana Light. The only drawbacks: the toilets are, in fact, a bit gross, and by the time the final game ends, the sun is up and it’s hard to see the screens. The entry fee is 30 kuai and includes one beer. An added benefit is that you can pop over to Stone Boat in the late evening for some great live music.

BEER MANIA

Argentina vs. Serbia and Montenegro: I arrived with Argentina winning 3-0 and before I finished my beer and my ham and cheese sandwich, it was 6-0. If anyone’s team is ahead and needs insurance goals, I’m willing to stop by and provide my luck, in exchange for pints and snacks.

RITAN PARK CENTRAL COMPOUND

Ghana vs. Czech; Italy vs. U.S.: What a great place to witness the fastest-paced and arguably most exciting game so far, as Ghana won its first World Cup match by knocking off the highly ranked Czech team, 2-0. They now need to beat the U.S., which put up a ferocious battle against Italy, and benefited greatly from that country’s own goal. Three red cards, a bloodied face, and a futile Italian corner kick in each of the final five minutes. Great games, great location, great fun.

BROWNS

Japan vs. Croatia: Browns is simply a fun place to watch the game, given its good beer selection, tasty food and good layout. This is one place that does not have to be full to have a lot of energy in the air. The big group of Japanese fans beside me had a great time, although I think some of them had ulcers after that tight game, and as they headed out, the Brazilians flowed in, as Browns is apparently their World Cup home base (witness the huge flag on the east wall). This place is probably your best bet if you’re looking for a crowd.

BEER MANIA

Brazil vs. Australia: It was on the way home! There were more people sitting out in front (five) than inside watching the game (three), with Chinese commentary, but who cares when you are watching a valiant effort by Australia and sipping a Caipirinha made by manager Marc.

JOHN BULL PUB

Mexico vs. Portugal: What a difference a quesadilla makes! John Bull Pub has been serving up authentic Mexican food on Fridays and Saturdays and did it again for this Wednesday night game. The result: tasty food and lots of people. Good time all around.

(From Beijing Boyce XIX, first emailed on June 21, 2006)

Looking for your World Cup fix? The Pavillion and Frank’s Place promise large outdoor screens, while Club Football, Red Ball, John Bull Pub, The Den, Goose and Duck (see below), W Sports Bar, Mojito, and everyone else and their goalkeeper will also be showing games. Is anyone out there (besides me) looking for a place to instead watch the NBA finals? / Beer Mania has added Russian brews to its mostly Belgian menu. Canadian beers will soon be stocked, says management, meaning it’s time to brush up on Canuck-isms, such as “two-four,” “toque,” “take off” and “LCBO.” / Meanwhile, Browns has added Beck’s (Germany) and Stella Artois (Belgium) to its draft beer selection. / A friendly place with good live Xinjiang music, Cheers has a spiffy new look, though management has maintained the happy hour: two-for-one until 10 PM, which translates into 10-kuai Qingdao drafts. (A tip of the shot glass to BB reader Eddie O, for buying the place a bottle of Wild Turkey: “If you’re a Christian, you spread the Gospel. If you’re a bourbon lover, you spread the Bird,” he writes.) / Speaking of which, after visiting Cheers, I had the munchies and headed for nearby Saddle. Given my previous experiences with poor service and fapiao troubles there, it was no surprise that I could not procure a quick burrito as the staff closed up. I took my money instead to Fish Nation, where I soon had some tasty eats. / Dave McCullough, the Grand Poohba of 5:19, noted on that’s Beijing’s forums that, “PiliPili quietly reopened… It looks absolutely gorgeous inside.” / Finally, this issue was pieced together fairly quickly, since I’ve been extra busy at work, have guests in town, and did not have my notes while putting together the final draft. My apologies if it goes down a bit rougher than usual.

(From Beijing Boyce XVII, first emailed on May 27, 2006)