Beijing Boyce

Richard Millar, the ex-Aria chef who was working at Pavillion, has moved to T-8 in Shanghai. / Torres has launched its website at www.torreschina.com. / ASC Fine Wines will hold a brunch on June 25 with guest chef George Calombaris (550 kuai) and a five-course dinner on June 27 with chef Andrew McKee (1188 kuai). Both events are at Aria and feature Penfolds wine and winemaker Oliver Crawford. / Summergate will hold a tasting of Georges Duboeuf wine at new French restaurant Le Parfum on June 27 (7-10 PM), with Zhu Yi-bing playing cello (100 kuai). / Beer Mania has Delirium Tremors on tap (40 kuai for 500 ML, regular 55 kuai) during happy hour, 4-8 PM (including weekends). Cocktails are two-for-one. / George Zhou at Q Bar has been experimenting with a tasty mint-based cocktail. Get their early in the evening before things get busy. / Top Club will have having a 70s dress party on July 14, so break out the wide lapels and bellbottoms. / And on a final soccer note, The Game of Their Lives, an inspiring documentary of North Korea’s improbable advance to the quarter finals of the 1966 World Cup, which included beating Italy 1-0, will be shown before on July 9 in Ritan Park’s central compound, just before the final game of this year’s tournament. / Eat, drink, and be merry, and if you can’t pass your teammates a ball, pass them a beer. BB.

(From Beijing Boyce XIX, first emailed on June 21, 2006)

This issue marks more than 50,000 words of Beijing Boyce and the completion of a goal that dates decades. I was but a seven-year-old prodigy when I endured my classmates‘ humiliating laughter, stinging me like wet snapping towels, as I announced: “Some day, friends, I shall go forth to a faraway country and live in a faraway city where on the street they roast meat on wooden sticks, where in the apartments they scatter small slots into which you place pre-paid cards to procure utilities such as cold water, and where in the skies they sprinkle silver iodide to hurry down spring rain.” They were already snickering by this point, glancing at one another, rolling their eyes. Yet, like Celine Dion’s heart, I went on: “I shall go to that faraway city and create a newsletter in a language foreign to most of its inhabitants, and that newsletter shall be about the nascent pub scene. It shall aim to be fair and to embrace all establishments: the good, the bad and the ugly, and even those that are slightly attractive, given the right lighting. And by the time I write 50,000 words, I shall be sending that publication not just to a handful or to a few dozen people, but to 407 readers.” They laughed at me. But who has the last laugh now? / As usual, if you like this newsletter, pass it on. To get on the list, and be lucky reader 408, a person needs only send a “sign me up” email. / Eat, drink and be merry. BB.

(From Beijing Boyce XVIII, first emailed on June 8, 2006)

A sizeable structure has emerged on the site of the old Maggie’s and my guess is that some new establishments will soon open and take advantage of the view of the nearby pond. / The pool table at John Bull Pub is still for sale. Contact Frank at 13901-238-863 for details. / Listening to some Beastie Boys tunes from the last millennium, I came across this classic reference to wine: “Like a bottle of Chateauneuf Du Pape, I’m fine like wine when I start to rap” (from the 1998 song Body Movin’). / And speaking of music, I witnessed, at Browns, a man attempt to impress a woman by singing (and acting out) the entire lyrics of the Blondie song “Rapture.” It was scary. Even the memory of it is scary. Someone hold me. / Barring that, eat, drink and be merry, BB.

(From Beijing Boyce XVII, first emailed on May 27, 2006) 

that’s Beijing held its restaurant awards, at Champagne bar, on May 11. Hatsune, Alameda, Steaks and Eggs, and Green T. House came away as multiple winners. Bellagio took top prize for late-night dining. / Cafe Pause has started wine tastings and the first featured German wines accompanied by German-style tapas (more on this event next time). This place now has outdoor seating and is a cozy spot to enjoy some Fleischer Secco sparkling wine. Speaking of which, I mistakenly wrote that the cafe stopped serving its cheese and spinach dumplings with pesto sauce. The delicious item I had been thinking of was the pork filet roll filled with spinach, Parmesan and almonds, and topped with red pesto sauce, and it remains on the menu. / John Bull Pub is holding a Taco Party all day Friday (May 12), with tacos (10 kuai) and frozen Margaritas (20 kuai). / Palette Vino will hold a South African wine tasting on May 12 (8 PM) and a Terrazas Argentinean wine tasting on May 19 (8 PM) in its Shunyi location, which will soon offer tapas and pasta. / ASC Fine Wines and House by the Park will pair Henri Bourgeois wines with Chinese cuisine on May 17 (7 PM, 688 kuai per person), with estate owner Jean Marie Bourgeois on hand. Also on the schedule: A Louis Jadot wine dinner, with winery president Pierre-Henry Gagey, at Tian Yi Di Jia on May 19, and a Guigal wine dinner, with winery president Marcel Guigal, at Aria on May 26. / Rui Fu, the new bar from Henry Li (Neo Lounge; Vogue; Public Space) is about to open, will open in June, will open in spirit but not in body, or is simply a figment of our collective imagination. Does anyone really know? In the meantime, it remains, according to many, “highly anticipated.” / It’s nice to see bar owners occasionally out doing research, with Dave McCullough of 5:19 spotted at Browns, The Den and The Bookworm last weekend. / One year ago, a trip to Tongli Studio meant a night at Bar Blu. Now when I hit those steps, I’m thinking Top Club or Cheers. / One year ago, a trip to Bar One found the place virtually empty, but a trip two weeks ago found it comfortably populated and the music fun. Call it Maggie’s sans Mongolians. / I hear that Stone Boat, in Ritan Park, has been drawing sizeable crowds with its live music series, particularly last Friday’s post-MIDI party. / Inner Affairs has renamed itself I [Heart] Beijing, thereby joining Zing by Doodoo’s in Beijing’s Lame Name Hall of Fame. / Maggie’s dance floor was under construction two weeks ago, but should now be open. / The Pomegranate was a bit claustrophobic in the winter, with those oil-burning heaters, but better weather means those in Shunyi have a nice outdoor option for enjoying a few pints and some decent pub grub. / Kranzler’s Restaurant and Bar, named after a Berlin Cafe started in the twenties, will soon open in the Kempinski Hotel. / Together, a fairly new bar with a Reggae theme, will have 12 hours (2 PM to 2 AM) of Marley-type music by DJ Herbie on May 13. / Garden of Delights joins the list of more-than-happy happy hours: two-for-one, from 6 to 7:30 PM, on weeknights, with floor manager Alex making one mean Mojito. / that’s Beijing held its bar and restaurant awards today, with Alameda, Steaks and Eggs, Green T. House and Hatsune coming out multiple winners. Bellagio took home the prize for late-night dining. / Just in case some people forgot, Mother’s Day is this Sunday. / And as always, if you like this newsletter, please pass it on to others you think might enjoy it. One need only send me a simple email to get on the list. Eat, drink and be merry, BB.

(From Beijing Boyce XVI, first emailed on May 11, 2006) 

A recent report on the quality of life in 215 cities ranked Beijing as number one… twenty-two (and this was before the sandstorms). Shanghai fared a bit better at number 103. Still, a press release quoted a Mercer employee as saying, “Beijing and Shanghai are on the rise and should experience rapid improvements in quality of living in the coming years.” / Dave Bidini, author and rhythm guitarist for Canadian group The Rheostatics, will do a reading and musical performance on May 7 at The Bookworm (7:30 PM). Bidini’s working on a new book titled Around the World in 80 Gigs, which will include four gigs in China (thanks to SC for the heads up). / I’ll try to have issue XVI out in two weeks, but as the May holiday is coming up, I may be out of town. If so, I’ll have it to you a week later, and will catch up on some overdue and promised material. Until then, eat, drink and be merry. Cheers! BB.

(From Beijing Boyce XV, first emailed on April 21, 2006) 

Wine connoisseurs, particularly those members of the spit/don’t swallow crowd, your enemies are everywhere. According to China Daily (March 28), “Beijing residents say spitting is what they hate most about living in the city, among the multitude of anti-social behaviour to be witnessed on a daily basis.” I couldn’t agree more. What is more barbaric than ejecting perfectly good Bordeaux? / Next issue will cover Agent Red Wolf’s “Top Ten Mojito” list, the Beijing Cheese Society’s Canadian cheese event, and my extended rant, “You gotta fight, for your right, to fapiao!” / Until then, eat, drink and be merry. Cheers, BB.

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

Those looking for more information on Shanghai nightlife can try these general sites: www.8days.sh; www.shanghaiist.com; www.cityweekend.com.cn/en/shanghai; www.thatssh.com; and www.smartshanghai.com. / Next issue, I’ll be back with lots of reports on Beijing’s bar scene, including - as mentioned - those tasty Mongolian vodka martinis at Modern Nomads and an update on Midnight. Cheers. BB

(From Beijing Boyce XII, first emailed on March 12, 2006) 

A Horizon survey recently ranked Beijing as the fifteenth best city, and that is only in China. Ouch! If my daily observations are any indication, Beijing’s drop from third last year is due to the worsening traffic and air pollution. Too bad it wasn’t a survey about nightlife or we might’ve ranked in the top 12. / You’d think Yao Ming’s NBA jersey would be the highest-selling in China, but he comes in third, behind teammate Tracy McGrady and Allen Iverson. / China Radio International has started interviewing me weekly about Beijing’s bar scene. I wrote an article about martinis for this week’s China Daily and The Boston Globe quoted me a few days ago. At this rate, I’ll have the media clout of Rupert Murdoch in about, uh, 5,000 years. / Eight readers have expressed interest in the Whisky and Bourbon Society idea. The basic plan: get about a dozen people together at a local watering hole, where we’ll try three or four selections on the menu, and then a couple of bottles provided by members (these would be ones unavailable in China). This is a non-profit proposition: we simply add up the cost of the booze (this does not include airfare to Kentucky to pick up Bourbon) and divide by the number of attendees. If you are interested, let me know. I would like to get this started in the next month. / As always, if you like the newsletter, pass it on to like-minded individuals. They only need a “sign me up” email to beijingboyce@yahoo.com. Cheers, BB.

(From Beijing Boyce X, first emailed on February 10, 2006)

that’s Beijing’s funk party last year to fund a heart operation for an orphan named Tian Yue raised less money than expected due to club management letting in too many people for free. A number of BB readers stepped up and donated to the cause and I’m happy to report that Tian Yue had surgery on Boxing Day and the orphanage writes: “Tian Yue is back with us. She is doing great.” / As I finish the newsletter, I have received an SMS: “The row of Russian and Eastern European restaurants north of Ritan Park, including the original Elephant, has been torn down.” People, when will the killing stop? / As usual, if you know someone else who would like this e-newsletter, pass it on. A person just has to send me a message to get on the mailing list. / Finally, I wish everyone a most excellent holiday and prosperous Year of the Dog. Eat (not the dog), drink and be merry, Beijing Boyce.

(From Beijing Boyce VI, first emailed on December 14, 2005)

Summergate Fine Wines & Spirits has moved to Han Wei Plaza (17F, 7 Guanghua Road / 6562-1800). Unfortunately, they still - and this is beyond me - have no website. ~ The Pavillion is offering patrons a chance to be a bartender for a day. Pick up the application forms at the bar. ~ I generally get good service at Centro at night. Not so during the afternoons. Recently, after receiving no attention from the staff, I left my cozy chair twice and went to the bar to order my drinks and then get my bill. Plus, is there some kind of staff no-smiling rule during the afternoon? Customers paying RMB50 or more for a coffee deserve better. ~ ASC has three new mixed-case promotions. Each 13-bottle set, ranging from RMB1200 to RMB2400, includes Laurent-Perrier Champagne (if you haven’t tried it, here’s you chance) at 32% to 40% off list prices. ASC is also offering 30% off select sets of four Vinum series Riedel glasses, including Bordeaux (RMB670), Chianti Classico (RMB599) and Cuvee Prestige (RMB599). (Though I wish they wouldn’t always use that same Robert Parker quote about Riedel crystal. Mix it up a bit, guys!) ~ I met the Aussino wine company people at a party a few weeks back and they are planning some Beijing events in the New Year. I’ll l keep you informed. ~ Journalist, China specialist and logician (how does he make so much sense after so many beers!?) Ralph Jennings has a crafty little blog at www.livejournal.com/users/lalaoshi ~ Plans for my rap band Bling Dynasty are coming along nicely. We’ve already got several songs in the works: Yo! Mae Yo!, Hot Mama Huhu and Mi Bad, Yu Bad, Mai Bad. I’ll l keep you updated on any concert dates. ~ Last, but not least, best wishes to everyone during the holidays. Eat, drink and be merry people. Cheers! JB.

(From Beijing Boyce VI, first emailed on December 14, 2005)

Resolutions for Beijing bar managers and employees (just trying to be helpful):

I shall not ask customers to pay for my mistakes, such as the difference between the RMB60 I have programmed into the cash register for a pint of Guinness and the RMB50 I’ve errantly printed on the menu; I shall accept the one-time loss of revenue rather than the permanent loss of the customer.

I shall not remove, nor lay hand upon, any glass containing more than a half-mouthful of liquid unless the patron whose glass it is has exited the premises or indicated it be taken away; nor will I hover above said patron waiting for him/her to finish that final mouthful; if I do so because of a shortage of glasses, I will take measures to have more purchased.

I will not pick my nose or ears, scratch my armpits or nether regions, or engage in any other unseemly conduct before handling food; nor will I regurgitate phlegm and mull it in my mouth in front of customers.

I will not practice my Chinese / English / other language with customers who do not wish to do so (and will learn to recognize when they are doing so out of politeness), bore them with lengthy stories about a particular alcohol’s history, or make asides on what are obviously their private conversations.

[Specifically for managers]

I will not chastise, denigrate or mock my employees in front of patrons as it makes me look unprofessional and my customers feel uncomfortable; I will defend those same employees from unreasonable and obnoxious patrons.

In coming issues: New Year resolutions for drinkers; The Pomegranate; ranking Beijing’s free English-language magazines; CD Jazz Cafe; the promise of Summergate Wines; the 400-kuai move; Dongbei dumplings; and more. Happy New Year and cheers everyone! Eat, drink and be merry. Beijing Boyce.

(From Beijing Boyce VII, first emailed on December 29, 2005)

Beijing has started an etiquette program for taxi drivers and not a moment too soon. I’ve never been ripped off by a driver here, but have received a fair share of bad attitude. Most drivers are decent and it’s too bad they’re pulled down by a significant minority that desperately need some “thought reform” ~ By the way, the new and spacious taxis introduced during the past year are a godsend. Standing on the eleventh floor of my building and watching those two-toned vehicles – each painted in a primary color with a single gold stripe – zip by is like watching tropical fish in a tank. ~ To those who complain about getting horrible hangovers from five-dollar, all-you-can-drink bars, get real. What else do you expect from drinking the lowest-grade alcohol around? ~ New: The Bookworm, version 2.0, is open, and with its 14,000+ books for loan, spacious lounge areas, tasty sandwiches, and wireless, it’s even better than before. ~ More on The Bookworm in the next issue as well as write-ups on the John Bull Pub tequila tasting, Beer Mania, Beijing holiday adventures, and Jim McGregor’s new book: One Billion Customers. It’s getting major press and McGregor will talk at both AmCham (amcham-china.org.cn) and the Bookworm (beijingbookworm.com) on September 11.

(From Beijing Boyce I, first emailed on October 6, 2005)