Beijing Boyce

I earlier wrote about the excellent time spent last Saturday night by the Bourbon, Rye and Whisk(e)y League, which attended Dewar’s Academy of Whisky and tried its collective hand at creating new blends that might set the world, or at least its liver, on fire. My own concoction, the Boyce Blend’r, passed a taste test at The Rickshaw later that night.

Here are a few photos from the blending room:

Mix masters Doctor A and Doctor E

It’s all in the wrist.

The man behind the X-Lander blend

Dude, you gotta try this stuff.

From Slovenia with love

No lab mice where injured in the production of these blends.

(I hope to get more photos up soon. Thanks to TS at BM for these ones.)

Question: What’s five parts Islay single malt, three parts each Highland single malt and grain Whisky, and one part each Speyside and Islay single malts?

Answer: The Boyce Blend’r

That’s the name of the brew I created at The Dewar’s Academy of Whisky last night. Throwing on a lab coat and heading into the blending room is part of the master class that BRAWL – the Bourbon, Rye and Whisk(e)y League – participated in at Jianwai Soho.

Things kicked off with welcome drinks (Dewar’s 12-year-old) and a bagpiper. Memories of spitballs, cheating over a neighbor’s shoulder, and the politics of who sits where ensued as we entered class. The big difference: Whisky was never allowed in the classrooms of my youth (things might have been more liberal in the teacher’s lounge).

Class started with a video, projected on three wide screens – one in front, and one on each side. A helicopter shot took us across Scotland to the home of Dewar’s where, inside and warmed by a fireplace, our virtual host talked about the history of the country (it is birthplace of TV, Dolly the Sheep, and Halloween) and company (in the 19th century, an owner toured 26 countries and, as he sailed along the route, threw bottles overboard with a note promising that those returning them would be rewarded with Whisky).

As our virtual host exited through a door on screen, our live host – Jordan Campbell – emerged from a door cut into the backdrop. Over the next hour, we learned of different kinds of Whisky and how they are made and stored.

The highlight: the blending room where we created our own mix using grain Whisky and four single malts. Each participant received a Dewar’s flask so we could take our blends home.

We also did a blind tasting of Dewar’s, Chivas and Johnnie Walker. I found this part a bit leading – one did not have to be class genius to know number three was Dewar’s. It garnered eight votes, compared to two each for Johnnie Walker and Chivas (I picked the last). My advice to future tasters – go back and try each Whisky a second time before you vote.

Afterward, we relaxed in the lounge and enjoyed six tapas from Mare, picked by Billy Kawaja, the chef behind the Cafe St Laurent brunch. Most were a decent match for the Dewar’s, including grilled pork medallions with blue cheese, gratinated goat cheese bruschetta with anchovies, and deep-fried salty cod with green pepper.

A few notes:
- The temporary Dewar’s “castle” is well-designed, with two long bars, and a lounge,  a classroom and a blending room. This place had a bit of a Rui Fu feel, though rougher.
- The organizers are hesitant to open the 30-year-old Dewar’s Signature. If you put the stuff on display, you can hardly be surprised that people want to sample it after trying the 12-year-old. With 89 more classes to go, I’m sure there’ll be a few more requests to crack those bottles.
- The video is excellent, but can be dizzying at times.
- Overall, the event was well-organized, educational and fun. Given everything is free – our only cost was the tapas – it would be hard to find better value. I would recommend the master class to anyone interested in Whisky, a good time, or both.

Note: I hope to post some photos tomorrow.

The Bourbon, Rye and Whisky League, also known as BRAWL, gathered on January 20 at Tim’s Texas BBQ in central Beijing for an evening of hearty food and fine spirits. After sampling leftover Bourbon from the inaugural meeting in September and feasting on ribs and potato salad, the BRAWLers got down to a blind tasting of 8-year-old Wild Turkey Kentucky Bourbon, 10-year-old Bushmills Irish Whiskey, 12-year-old Famous Grouse Scotch and 25-year-old Alberta Springs Canadian Rye.

Ed Ohlin provided a primer on the spirits (noting, for example, that Scotch often has hints of peat – compressed weeds and grass) and answered questions (for example, “Why would the human palate desire a burnt-wood flavor?” to which Ed explained that charred barrels are used because distillers want the complexity and color that the carmalized sugars in oak bring out during the aging process).

The tasting aimed to show the differences between these spirits and the BRAWLers spent some quality time pondering which of the four shot glasses facing each of them held the Bourbon, Rye, Scotch and Irish Whisky respectively. After much sniffing and sipping, three people – Sarah E., Brad S. and Alan S. – correctly guessed all four spirits. In terms of favorites, a rough poll saw Alberta Springs come out on top (5.5 votes), followed by Bushmills (4.5), Famous Grouse (3) and Wild Turkey (1: that would be Ed).

Here are some brief tasting notes:

Bushmills: A sweet and slightly syrupy nose, it was light and smooth going down, and had a very palatable aftertaste. As Ed noted, with its three ingredients – barley, yeast and water – this spirit is simplicity defined.

Wild Turkey: This was slightly less sweet, with more honey than syrup aromas, and had a long and burning aftertaste, evidence of its strong proof. Alan S said, “It seems distantly North American.”

Famous Grouse: To me, this was mildest of the first three, with a slight earthy aroma and taste.

Alberta Springs: It had almost no aroma and a light aftertaste, and was very smooth. “The mouth feel is satiny,” said Ed. “This is distinct because it isn’t sharp but it has a deep color.” Someone else felt differently: “I think number four would solve a lot of ailments.” (Note: My research shows that Alberta Springs is the only 100 percent Rye distilled in Canada.)

This tasting cost 120 kuai per person, which covered the food and spirits, with the leftover Whisky going toward icebreaker drinks at the next event. As the room could only hold 16 people, I limited the mailing list mainly to those who expressed interest in BRAWL when I first proposed the idea a year ago. Given this, and that the theme of this event seems worth a repeat, I’ll organize another blind tasting of Bourbon, Canadian Rye, Scotch and Irish Whisky (those interested in getting on the mailing list for BRAWL or more biweekly newsletter, let me know at beijingboyce@yahoo.com).

Hear ye, hear ye, the inaugural assembling of the Bourbon, Rye and Whisk(e)y League, heretofore known as BRAWL, convened upon the eve of September 23 in the year of 2006 in an establishment familiarly known as the Pub of John Bull but in due consequence to be christened the Texas BBQ of Tim’s.

In attendance were seven founding fathers and two founding mothers, who imbibed four Bourbons of Kentucky and two Whiskies of Tennessee, and established Procedures, Policies and Plans for further congregations at which the Art and Science of Tasting and Evaluating Spirits shall be recommenced and heartened to such an extent that the words “the fullest” would best describe it.

Founder Ed pontificated upon the process of manufacture and distinguishing characteristics of the aforementioned Bourbons and Whiskies to which our humble palates saw exposure. He expounded on the nuances that source of water, type of grain, duration of aging and material of cask might impart upon the ultimate form of these fine and worthy spirits. This honorable fellow noted his patronage of one particular Bourbon, named for The Fowl That Doth Be Untamed in Spirit Yet Plump of Body and Desirous Upon Certain Christian Holidays (Editor: Wild Turkey), for a tenure on approach of three score years.

Founders Frank and Jennifer delighted attendees by generously sharing victuals that included the Smoked Meats and Baked Beans soon to be procurable from their new establishment, the aforementioned Texas BBQ of Tim’s, and fellow Founders Mike and Debbie shared their estimable thoughts as to the merits and demerits of each Whisky and Bourbon served. Founder Tom recommended tactics and strategies by which to ensure the vigorous progress of the League, and drew upon his experiences with our fair city’s Society of Cheese, of which his esteemed wife, popularly known as the Vixen of the Aforementioned Milk Byproduct, is a co-founder. Founder Lee noted that he ranked among the few Men and perhaps the only one in our presence of whom his ascendant bears the same moniker as that of a particular Whisky, to which the attendees raised a glass.

Of relations to the topics of liquids, Founder Alan regaled attendees with a breathtaking tale of successfully swimming betwixt Qingdao proper and its attendant island, and henceforth, a few years later, falling slightly short in a similarly spirited water-borne effort in the waters off the City of New York. Worldly duties necessitated that Founder-in-Absence Kristan be in far and distant places that perhaps may posses superior Bourbons and Whiskeys in quantity and quality, but are without doubt lacking in the Comradeship found in BRAWL, though we expressed hopes that some of those spirits might accompany him back to our fair city.

These minutes submitted by B. Boyce.

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Now that I’ve put most everyone to sleep – and no, I did not write that under the influence – let me briefly state that the Bourbon, Rye and Whiskey League (BRAWL) held its first meeting on September 23 at John Bull Pub. It was the pub’s last event as the upstairs was being gutted for Tim’s Texas BBQ even as downstairs ten of us sipped our way through four Kentucky Bourbons – Jim Beam, Knob Creek, Maker’s Mark and Wild Turkey – and two Tennessee Whiskeys – Jack Daniels and Jack Daniels Single Barrel. What a difference it makes to compare them side by side!

Ed Ohlin led the meeting and explained how the Whisky- and Bourbon-making process.The group agreed to focus the first few future tastings on basic events, such as comparisons of Bourbon, Scotch Whiskey and Single Malt Whiskey, of 12-year-old Whiskies from Ireland, Scotland, Canada, Japan and the U.S., and of five or six products from a single distillery. Those on the BRAWL mailing list will get an event announcement in the next two weeks.

I had planned to review Face, Bed, L’Etage and A-Che in this issue, but have simply been too busy of late and this newsletter is already one week overdue. I’ll aim to include them next time, along with a write-up of the Wine and Spirits Education Trust course I finished last night. I was in the inaugural/guinea pig class and will opine on whether it was worth the 1488 kuai (and yes, unless otherwise noted, I do pay for these things). / I had my first newsletter-related interview with a Chinese newspaper. I have one thing to say: I am WAY better at writing about the bar scene than at talking about it. / Finally, Eddie-O, Kris Tan and I met about the Whisky and Bourbon Society, and came up with a basic plan. I’m now working on a venue and before the next newsletter will send out details to those on the society’s mailing list. / As always, Eat, Drink and Be Merry. BB.

(From Beijing Boyce XXIII, first emailed on August 31, 2006) 

In the summer reading section last issue, I should have included Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential, which looks at the restaurant business in general and the author’s transformation from oyster-eating youngster to drug-abusing kitchen grunt to increasingly respectable New York chef in particular. The most useful excerpt concerns a couple known for throwing excellent dinner parties and encouraged by friends into opening a restaurant, only to realize that people are far more likely to show up when the food is free. There is a lesson or two here for prospective bar owners. / I’ll also recommend two websites. The first is news.imagethief.com, created by “an American spin doctor in Beijing” who provides insights into both the PR field and life in the Middle Kingdom. (His “How to Survive a Chinese Drinking Party” is a modern-day “Art of War” for those battling a night of baijiu.) The second is danwei.org, which tracks “media, advertising and urban life” in China, and is run by the brains behind the sexy Centro ad campaign. / I’m not a big fan of bartenders doing fancy tricks with bottles, but this guy, apparently at Beijing’s Salsa Caribe, is impressive: www.youtube.com/watch?v=agRiiO6-Po0. / To those who have patiently been waiting for my Whisky and Bourbon Society, I will send out a survey by Monday to find out where, when and how often you would like to meet. If you are interested in the society but do not receive the survey, please let me know. (Note: I’ve contacted several distilleries about this project and will provide an update next issue.) / My goal when starting this newsletter last October was 500 readers. On Wednesday, thanks to Adam D. signing up, I reached it. Who are your fellow readers? There are 130 people working in hotels, restaurants, bars, or wine and spirits companies, 80 in the local and foreign media, and 290 that hold jobs ranging from diplomat to homemaker to English teacher to businessperson. I owe many thanks to those readers who have passed on this newsletter to their friends and acquaintances over the past ten months. I’ll be back next issue with reviews of Face (first impressions are good) and A Che (a Cuba-inspired spot), and notes on pairing Chinese food and wine. Until then, eat, drink and be merry. Cheers, BB.

(From Beijing Boyce XXII, first emailed on August 12, 2006)

The AmCham-China U.S. Independence Day party is slated for July 2 and will feature pizza, burgers, hot dogs and pizza, beer and soda, music from the Icehouse band and from Chris of Nashville, and children’s games and fireworks. I’m helping and thus onsite all the livelong day, and at least 33 readers of this newsletter will be there, including Kraft-D and Alpha Veda (see issues II, XII), who are flying in from Shanghai. Drop by and have some barley pops with us. Tickets must be bought beforehand, include four food and drink coupons, and are 150-200 kuai (children under five get in free). For more info, check amcham-china.org.cn, email me, or visit Browns tonight night (Thursday, starts 10PM), where I’ll be cheering my team Ghana as they play the U.S. in the World Cup. / The Canadians get into the patriotic spirit a day earlier, on July 1, with the Canada-China Business Council organizing a national day party in Wangfujing. For details, see canadadaychina.com. For those Canucks who want an early start, Richard Liu reminds that the Fourth Annual Canada D’eh! Cocktail is June 30 (10:30PM-2AM) at TRIO. Email info@clubcanada.net to RSVP. / Was it not literally yesterday that Beijing’s grape scene grew a bunch with the creation of The Cellar (soft opening: June 27) and its associated wine club? Now word comes that another club, this one focused on Bordeaux, is set to open (more details next issue). Speaking of The Cellar, memberships to Club 88 are now available. / The Beijing Cheese Society has been quiet lately, but no worries fromage fans, as co-founder Sharon Ruwart says that plans for more tastings are in the works. / Finally, I have sent out a short survey to those who have expressed interest in my planned Whisky and Bourbon Society. If you didn’t receive it, and are interested in the society, let me know. Special thanks to reader Eddie O. for his input.

(From Beijing Boyce XIX, first emailed on June 21, 2006)  

Some 15 readers have expressed interest in the society and my goal is to get it up and running in June. The idea is for members to learn a little about Whisky and Bourbon, share quality drinks and enjoy camaraderie. Each tasting will have a theme and include six or seven Whiskies or Bourbons, a few of them unavailable for sale in Beijing. This project is non-profit and participants will simply divide the costs of the alcohol and snacks at a given event. If you are interested, email me. If you have already emailed me in response to earlier calls, expect some details about the society in the next few days.

(From Beijing Boyce XVI, first emailed on May 11, 2006)

A Horizon survey recently ranked Beijing as the fifteenth best city, and that is only in China. Ouch! If my daily observations are any indication, Beijing’s drop from third last year is due to the worsening traffic and air pollution. Too bad it wasn’t a survey about nightlife or we might’ve ranked in the top 12. / You’d think Yao Ming‘s NBA jersey would be the highest-selling in China, but he comes in third, behind teammate Tracy McGrady and Allen Iverson. / China Radio International has started interviewing me weekly about Beijing’s bar scene. I wrote an article about martinis for this week’s China Daily and The Boston Globe quoted me a few days ago. At this rate, I’ll have the media clout of Rupert Murdoch in about, uh, 5,000 years. / Eight readers have expressed interest in the Whisky and Bourbon Society idea. The basic plan: get about a dozen people together at a local watering hole, where we’ll try three or four selections on the menu, and then a couple of bottles provided by members (these would be ones unavailable in China). This is a non-profit proposition: we simply add up the cost of the booze (this does not include airfare to Kentucky to pick up Bourbon) and divide by the number of attendees. If you are interested, let me know. I would like to get this started in the next month. / As always, if you like the newsletter, pass it on to like-minded individuals. They only need a “sign me up” email to beijingboyce@yahoo.com. Cheers, BB.

(From Beijing Boyce X, first emailed on February 10, 2006)

Email: [Re My statement last issue that drinkers who mix Chivas with green tea should be executed] Why should you have any problem with those philistines who drink mass-market blended whisky? Let them do what they want with it – you can make it any more bland or innocuous by mixing it with whatever Chinese ingredients you have lying around. That leaves the nice single malts to us! – KR

BB: A good point, but what if those people are on a slippery slope, at the bottom of which they start mixing those nice single malts with green tea? Not a pretty situation and one that is bound to increase prices. No, best to nip this in the bud, perhaps by death by poisoning. Then again, come to think of it, maybe that’s exactly what Chivas and green tea does to people.

(From Beijing Boyce VI, first emailed on December 14, 2005)

Ch-ch-changes: Is Neo Lounge set to reappear? The bar had a cult following before it closed more than a year ago and is the topic of a forthcoming documentary. Which will come first: the new bar or the movie? / Hilton Beijing is making over its restaurants and bars. It will add a signature Zeta Bar (a la the Sydney, Kuala Lumpur and London Hiltons). / Huxley, who popularized the none-too-subtle slogan Shut Up, Just Drink, is apparently readying another bar. In my crystal ball, I see… 10-kuai Qingdao… low-priced shooters… noisy dice games. / Has anyone else cringed at the new Cask of Amontillado-like structure behind Sun City (near Alfa)? Turning to my ball again, I see possible names… Public Execution… Abu Ghirab… Dungeons and Dragons… Hairy [sic] Potter… and a home for the city’s S&M scene.

Wining about Beijing: My co-worker Andrew McDonald, whose family owns Seven Springs Vineyards (Oregon), ranked among American’s ten best by Food & Wine, will lead a tasting of five Pinot Noirs on January 20. The wines include 2001 Amity Pinot Noir, 2003 Rex Hill Pinot Noir, 2003 King Estates Pinot Noir, 2001 Ponzi Pinot Noir and the rare 2000 St. Innocent Seven Springs Pinot Noir. The event is RMB250 and limited to 18 tasters. Six spots are left. If you’re interested, let me know ASAP. First come, first served. / The Riedel crystal wine glass empire expands. ASC Fine Wines founder and Riedel distributor Don St. Pierre writes: “We are selling Riedel in about 40 cities now, including selected Carrefour outlets.” They start at 160 kuai per. ~ I didn’t list Torres Wines new address last issue because I couldn’t find it on the company’s website. Torres’ Galia Stern diplomatically noted that it was in all of her emails to me. Point taken: Annex House, Tian He Mansion, 7A Workers’ Stadium West Road, Chaoyang District (5165-5519). / Montrose’s Ethan Perk suggested I emulate that Johnny Mercer song (“accentuate the positive, eliminate the negative”) and praise wine distributors with functioning sites, rather than complain about those without (Summergate, Torres, Palette). Here they are: Montrose, with the best site, is at www.montrosechina.com, while ASC is at www.asc-wines.com. / A few issues ago, I claimed that the six sparkling wines at a tasting at John Bull Pub came from Torres. In fact, only the Bellavista Franciacorta is distributed by the company.

More shots: Try Polish, American, Russian, Mongolian and other vodkas on January 15 at John Bull Pub. The RMB150 fee includes a buffet with bratwurst, borsch, Russian salad and mash. Email frank_siegel@hotmail.com or call 13301-377-336 to reserve a spot. / If you’ve got the New Year’s blues and need some chuckles, catch Chopschticks on January 14 at 7:30pm at icehouse (6522-1389). The show features stand-up comedian Jim Dunn (Boston) and opener Tony Moschetto.  Tickets: RMB250 at door; RMB220 in advance (13701-210-489). ~ The Pavillion is planning a whisky club. And I plan to talk ideas with them as I’d like to start a whisky and bourbon society. Is anyone up for it? / Re my futile search for a toilet plunger, Damon Perry suggested I try Carrefour. Thanks for the tip. I also found some with wooden handles at Jingkelong on Gongti North Road and bought one with a steel handle (49 kuai) at Ikea. Note: Ikea will move sometime this year. I’ll let you know the exact address.

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)