Beijing Boyce

As noted before, Burger, Burger Monday at Blue Frog has become a ritual over the past three months. But last Monday marked a series of firsts. The first time James “Wizard of WordPress” Flanagan tried a burger here.

The first time Christiaan “Buddha Machine” Virant tried a Samuel Adams.

(That’s the look of a satisfied man.)

And the first time I tried a Zone Burger. What’s behind the lettuce?

A patty topped with cheese. What’s behind the patty?

Bacon, onion, tomato, pickle, and more.

Finally, it was the first thousandth time I witnessed Steven “Sino Scuba” Schwankert play air bass. I guess you can’t win them all.

By the way, there is a sweet potato fries option at Blue Frog.

Note: I realize I have written a lot about Burger Burger, so I’ll spend more time trying the menu and less time writing about it for a while. (But it is a good deal.)

Last Thursday night at The Bookworm, the Beijing Entrepreneurs Organization organized an event titled, “An Evening with Three Influential Beijing Restaurant Entrepreneurs.” Thanks to Shane Crombie, public relations guy, online advertising expert, and co-organizer of the “First Thursday” monthly ad industry event, for providing this write-up:

“We learned that Gaby Alves (SALT) was once a pro volleyball player in Brazil and sold bread from the back of a motorcycle, that Fred Lin (Bellagio) grew up in the Pacific island of Guam, worked for his family’s furniture and lighting business, then heard the call of big city life and joined a small restaurant business in China that now has more than 1000 employees, and that Bob Boyce (Blue Frog), who studied Mandarin in the mid-1990s, worked for a moving company in Guangzhou and then ended up in Shanghai where he decided to tackle, on his own terms, the shortage of good Western fare there.

“Opening a restaurant is a high risk venture in any market, and each of the speakers recounted scary moments along the way. After the closing of the Shanghai street on which his first establishment was located, Bob Boyce managed to keep his place open by convincing the police that he was doing a dinner for the British High Commissioner, while Lin remembers the “chicken and egg” challenge of obtaining a business license and safety permit when one was needed to get the other. Meanwhile, Alves had to wait nine months to get her license.

“The 437-kuai question on the night was what each saw as the key to success. Alves mentioned the introduction of a set menu and a focus on quality produce, Lin talked about providing simple Chinese food that “you can’t get mad at”, and Boyce emphasized the role of service with a smile and a focus on the needs of foreigners. It sounds simple, doesnt it? Roll the dice, take a few knocks, and hey, presto, you are a big success. Not so fast.

“What each speaker had in common was a recognition of the overarching role that staff development and training plays  in each of their businesses. From Alves providing accommodation for her staff to Lin building a dedicated employee training centre to Boyce developing a phone book-sized training manual, each has invested significant working capital in empowering their employees to succeed. If you want to emulate the success of these culinary pioneers, expect to dedicate yourself every day to the recruitment and retention of great people.

“PS:  In case you were wondering, the waittresses at Bellagio have those short haircuts for hygeine reasons, and this extends to the kitchen, where the policy first began, and cleaning staff.

The floor of Sanlitun Village that houses Herbal Cafe, Element Fresh, Blue Frog, and Union Bar & Grille, among others, bustled with eaters and drinkers on Sunday. So much for the economic crisis and a diet of cardboard-stuff dumplings. Anyway, a quick rundown of an afternoon spent with ksquare:

Union Bar & Grille: I went with my default, the breakfast with Canadian bacon and rye bread, and it did not disappoint. I received four pieces of toast (two slices of bread), but was charged for the bottomless coffee. The rule is that regulars get free coffee, so I guess my status has been downgraded since last visit, though I am still batting something like five for seven when it comes to gratis java. ksquare says the eggs Benedict at Union best those at Maison Boulud, not the first time I have heard praise heaped on this particular item.

Blue Frog: We managed to grab the last table on the crowded deck as people enjoyed the abnormally warm weather. The staff hustled back and forth with drinks and food and constantly rearranged tables and seats to accommodate incoming groups. A hopping day for the Frog, though RMB50 for a Whiskey and Coke is a bit stiff.

Element Fresh: Again, another strong crowd, even at 4 PM. We sat inside, since the deck was out of the sunlight by this time. At RMB40, the Whiskey and Coke is cheaper than at Blue Frog and Union, though this place lacks the “bar” feel of those latter two places. Maybe that explains why ksquare went with a large tomato juice (RMB28).

Herbal Cafe: andylee had reported earlier that Herbal Cafe was crowded and at 4:30 PM we could still see dozens of people in the place, with every table on the deck taken.

I popped into Union Bar & Grille last Tuesday to meet Cale Jackson, who consults on this place as well as restaurants in Hong Kong and Taipei, who recently told me that Union finally has a gas hookup and thus the full menu – including one-pound rib-eye steaks – is available, and who first got me into martinis many moons ago when he owned a bar called Buca Buca (I’m not sure if I should thank or blame him). I played guinea pig and sampled some food as well as three wines brought in by an outfit called Golden Gate. But first, two other items:

1. I tend to think of Union as a restaurant, but this place has a splendid U-shaped bar with excellent post-work potential. There is plenty of space, a layout that lets you check out fellow patrons, and trays of candles anchored above that provide a soothing atmosphere no doubt made better by a daily two-for-one happy hour from 6 to 10 PM. Drinks include Cosmos, Mojitos, and Strawberry Daiquiris (RMB42-50), beers ranging from Heineken (RMB35) to Brooklyn Lager (RMB60), and three choices of wine (RMB48-60). I have yet to try the cocktails, but will do so soon.

2. This place also has a brunch menu, with more than a dozen items, from your standard two eggs, hash browns, toast, and meat combo at RMB45 to eggs benedict with hash browns and toast at RMB58. A cup of coffee is RMB20 and, says Jackson, is bottomless.

Back to the wine: There are ten by the glass and 30 by the bottle, organized from light to full bodied and ranging in price from RMB172 to RMB750 per bottle. I tried three of the lower-end wines and found them passable, with the Painter Bridge Chardonnay 2006 being best of the trio (RMB48 per glass).

I wrongheadedly ate half a pie from Pizza Buona shortly before going to Union – if you order, get the large pepperoni - and thus did minimal nibbling. I found the steak juicy and tender, though that one-pounder will set you back RMB308, with a side of tasty baby potatoes and other veggies, but the highlight were the creamy (with a hint of tang) scalloped potatoes (RMB20), a dish we need more of in this town. I could see myself getting a couple of orders of these and washing them down with a glass of vino.

By the way, I tried the burger on a previous visit, and it ranks among the best in town, though it is pricey at RMB86 (that included a dreaded 15 percent service fee).

In any case, I will have soon have more on the drinks at this place.

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A day earlier, I popped into Blue Frog for my third (fourth?) try at the RMB50 lunch special. I had wanted lasagna, but it wasn’t ready, so I settled on a sandwich and beef soup. As with other visits, I found the meal a bit light, with the value coming from the refill on the coffee. For burger fans, Blue Frog still has them two-for-one on Mondays and continues with its RMB25 cocktails on Tuesdays. New manager Lee is a friendly soul – he told me if I wanted lasagna, I could get into the kitchen and make it myself, and thus showed an openness to allowing patrons to see the inner workings of the Blue Frog. All kidding aside, he circulated regularly to make sure we were well cared for.

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Finally, I wrote yesterday about The Stumble Inn, which has taken over the Sangria space on Lucky Street. The opening party is now set for Friday, January 16, at 7 PM and will feature free food and drink from 8 PM to 10 PM. Owner Shane O’Neill describes itself as a “pub and game house” and states it will “stay open until the last person leaves.”

In response to this post about Element Fresh on Monday, regular commenter The Village Grouch asked, “How about doing a wrap-up of recent Shanghai entrants to the Beijing market and how they’re faring?”

Done and done: In alphabetical order, here are 3.5 places that hail from our sibling city to the south and opened in Beijing over the past six months. And yes, I realize some might be getting their houses in order*, so consider this post as based on first impressions (or in these cases, second, third, or even tenth impressions).

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Blue Frog (Sanlitun Village)

If they knocked one-third off the prices, I might become a regular. But given RMB75 for not exactly the biggest hamburger, RMB35 for a small Carlsberg draft, and a staff that is a bit too keen, this will be an occasional retreat, especially in the winter when getting to the rooftop at The Village will be no treat. Good for casual business meetings or for watching televised sports in more upscale surroundings.

Why I would go: To watch a special sports event or because I am looking for a kid-friendly spot, I have an expense account, or they knocked one-third off the prices (speaking of which, cocktails are RMB25 on Tuesday nights).

Why I wouldn’t: The Den, The Rickshaw and Paddy O’Shea’s are nearby and offer good screens and, especially in the case of the first two, lower prices.

Grade: B

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Element Fresh (Sanlitun Village)

As noted earlier, I’ve been there five times, been highly annoyed four times, and left without ordering the last time. Nice layout, decent coffee, and friendly staff, but something went awry with the training because the service is poor, while the food is getting mixed reviews.

Why I would go: To chill on the deck, have a coffee, and surf the Internet.

Why I wouldn’t: Given the service, nearby places such as Le Petit Gourmand and Panino Teco offer better value.

Grade: C

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Enoteca (The Place)

I’ve walked by it dozens of times – at lunch, in the afternoon, and at night – and seen it not even half full. The view of the big screen at The Place is excellent. The wine choice is based on what is imported by the owners, which limits consumer choice, though some bottles do go for less than RMB100. Several readers have complained of “attitude” here. Perhaps the “official” opening tonight at 6 PM will mark a new phase.

Why I would go: To drink wine while watching a screen the size of a handful of football fields.

Why I wouldn’t: The nightmare of getting a taxi at The Place at night and the wealth of other wine options in this city.

Grade: C

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Klubb Rouge

While not officially linked to Bar Rouge in Shanghai, a handful of top employees from that hot spot came north to open this pricey China View venue (they have since left). The staff ranks among the friendliest in town, the place is huge, and the rooftop deck offers excellent views. Unfortunately, this place has struggled to establish an identity and draw crowds, though new management is in place so perhaps some changes are on the way.

Why I would go: To hang out on the rooftop deck or to park at the bar and daydream while looking at those weird red glass blobs hanging from the ceiling.

Why I wouldn’t: The place often has a very light crowd, the drinks are expensive, and I always end up at The Den afterward eating my weight in deep-fried goods.

Grade: C

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* Though still charging full prices.

The Rickshaw has joined the Sanlitun burger battle in what is a shining example of how quickly the scene has changed this year. In the past three months, we have witnessed new places such as Blue Frog (RMB75), Union Bar & Grill (RMB86), and Let’s Burger (RMB68) push up burger and fries prices, other newcomers such as Luga’s Villa (RMB35) take the budget route, and longer-term spots such as The Den and The Rickshaw dig in as things suddenly became very competitive.

The Rickshaw, which annoyed some regulars during the Olympics with a 15-percent surcharge that has since been rescinded, is upping its game. It has introduced three burgers and a sandwich, all priced at RMB55 and including thick-cut fries. Nick Ma gave me a taste test of the quartet on Sunday.

The two beef burgers include The Americano, which Ma says is made with local organic meat and served on a poppy seed bun, and the Oz, a “classic Australian burger.” The latter includes a flame-broiled bun, cheddar cheese, and sliced canned beetroot topped with a hamburger patty topped with a pineapple ring cooked together with egg topped with bacon, lettuce and tomato. As the toppings indicate, the portion is substantial.

The Steak Rambo Sambo is a steak sandwich served with rocket lettuce on sour dough bread, while The China Special is chicken breast marinated in spices, and topped with sautéed onions, green peppers, and gong bao chicken sauce. Ma says crushed peanuts are embedded in the chicken before flame-broiling.

So, how do they taste? Here are my rankings:

1. Oz burger: Besides including the “bacon factor”, the pineapple, egg, tomato et al make for an interesting blend of flavors and textures, though I found the bun too sweet (I suggest keeping the poppy seeds and reducing the sugar).
2. China Special: The chicken is tender and juicy, and the spices leave a nice tingly aftertaste.
3. Steak sandwich: Sour dough bread, mmm, though a bit higher meat-to-bun ration would be nice.
4. Americano burger: For a stripped-down burger such as this, the bun is simply too sweet.

By the way, The Rickshaw has added new wing flavors, though the medium Buffalo style and others will remain. They include apple vinegar, cream cheese and tomato, maple syrup and chili, and Brandy Dijon.

Finally, here are a few pictures courtesy of my K-Touch, which is most excellent as a phone and most frustrating as a camera. Just imagine these burgers look about twice as good as the photos.

The Americano Burger

The Rickshaw Oz Burger

UPDATE: I went by Let’s Burger this afternoon and they said they don’t open until 5 PM. I guess it’s a daily thing.

One East on Third – 325 kuai.

25 Degrees – 110 kuai.

Blue Frog – 75 kuai.

There once seemed to be a shortage of decent burgers in this town. Now, it’s more a matter of financing them.

The newest outfit to join the fray is Let’s Burger, which management says will open at 5 PM today in new Nali (down from Pantry Magic). The menu includes a dozen kinds of burgers, ranging from the “Original” (RMB48), which includes 7 ounces of beef, to the “Let’s Burger” (RMB~150), which includes two kinds of beef, tiger prawns, foie gras, mozzarella, and avocado. The menu also has a half-dozen salads, five kinds of French fries (from RMB20), among other items. I’ll have more on this place… after 5 PM.

The Beijing outlet of wine bar chain Enoteca closed for renovations almost as soon as it opened a few weeks ago in The Place, but the vino is again flowing. Enoteca offers about 100 wine options, food, and good views of that massive sky screen.

Paddy O’Shea’s has joined the brain-teasing brigade by holding a weekly quiz every Wednesday at 8 PM. Each round will see prizes, ranging from a RMB300 gift certificate to A-Che to RMB1200 worth of “golf simulation” (you’ll need to ask Paddy’s Gleann Phealan about that one). The top five teams will reap their rewards in beverages.

The bar previously known as L’Etage, just around the corner from Le Bistrot Parisienne in Tongli Studio, is under renovation and will re-open as Second Floor. I’ll have more on this soon.

China Doll (3.3 building) will start a happy hour on July 14 – expect two-for-one cocktails from 6 to 9 PM.

The Shunyi outlet of blue frog is open from 10 AM until late (management informs that the mall doors close at 10 PM and thus patrons need to be inside Europlaza by then if they plan to stick around). The Sanlitun outlet is “coming soon.”

For nearly three years, people have suggested I go beyond writing about the bar and restaurant scene and open my own place. Why don’t you open a bar? Why don’t you open a restaurant? Why don’t you open a bar and a restaurant? If only I had a kuai for every time I have heard this.

I have hesitated because of the myriad headaches that come with getting registered, dealing with landlords, inspectors, contractors, and food and beverage distributors, hiring and managing staff, facing unruly customers, plunging toilets, giving up weekends, and on, and on, and on, and on.

Plus, there is the issue of a theme. I’m not sure my idea of a bar called Zamfir – featuring live pan flute music 24/7, a free wind chime with every purchase, and discounts for people into crystals and unicorn art – would work. Frankly, bilingual pan flute players aren’t easy to find in Beijing.

All kidding aside, the time has come. Now, finally, and not a minute too soon, Boyce is throwing his spatula and martini glass into the ring.

That’s right, Bob Boyce (no relation), the Shanghai entrepreneur involved in the blue frog and KABB chains will expand to Beijing. In part five of my series of posts on places projected to open over the next few months, I interviewed Boyce about his Beijing plans. (Previously – The new China Doll; The new Nali Studios: Saddle, H2O; The new China Doll; The Legation Quarter)

Boyce (Jim): There have been rumors of blue frog coming to Beijing for years. Why now?

Boyce (Bob): We actually had plans to open last year but the projects we are located in were both delayed. I’ve wanted to have a blue frog presence in Beijing for a long time but until recently it was tough to find good space. There are some great new buildings and developments opening up right now and we are looking forward to being a part of them. I personally love Beijing and can’t wait to be able to spend more time there.

Where will the blue frogs be in Beijing, what can patrons expect, and when will the places open?
We will open two new blue frogs in the next several months. One will be in the new Sanlitun project and the other will be in Europlaza out in Shunyi. We should be open in the last part of May or early part of June for both locations.

Our Sanlitun blue frog will have about 100 seats and will be casual but sophisticated. It will be warm and inviting but also contemporary and hip. There will be a bar and a restaurant together. The goal is to have place where people let their hair down. It will have a great late night vibe as well as a lot of outdoor space for relaxed weekend brunches.

The Europlaza blue frog will be more family oriented and have plenty of space for kids as well as areas for big groups of families and friends. We will focus on creating and maintaining a relaxed, fun community gathering place.

Steaks, burgers, pastas, and salads are the core of our menu. We also will have a great selection of cocktails and wine.

At all blue frogs we really focus on giving our customers a great experience at a reasonable price.

(Interview continues after photo)

One of seven branches in Shanghai (Photo: blue frog)

What is your client based in Shanghai and how do you expect it to differ, if at all, in Beijing?
We have a really diverse group of patrons, people from all over China as well as the world. Most are in white-collar jobs or have their own businesses. About 80 percent are based locally. I believe we will have the same type of following in Beijing.

People bringing concepts and franchises to Beijing have struggled over the past few years – Capone’s, RBL, Trader Vic’s and others closed. What makes you think blue frog will work in Beijing?
blue frog is a business born in China and we are really proud of that fact. We spend a lot of time getting to know our customers and building a sense of community in our places. That sense of community is what brings people back. In Beijing we plan on being fully engaged with our customers and with the neighborhoods we are located in.

What kind of promotion of blue frog are you planning for Beijing?
We will have a great happy hour offering two-for-one well drinks, from 4 PM to 8 PM. every day. Weekend brunch will start immediately as well as a number of food and drink promotions during the week. There should be something going on pretty much every day. We will also have our famous / infamous wall of fame. Drink 100 shots from our shots menu and we’ll put your name on the wall of fame and give you a shot on the house every time you come back in.

You lived in Beijing in the mid-90s. How does the restaurant and bar scene compare then and now?
I studied Chinese at Beijing second Foreign Language University (Er Wei) in 1994, so my roots are in Beijing. At the time there were not a lot of options for Western food and drink. We used to have to travel a couple of hours by bus to get to the McDonald’s in Wangfujing. Sanlitun was full of flower and frame shops and Poachers Inn and the disco at the Kunloon Hotel were the only games in town. Those of your readers who remember those days are probably a little misty-eyed right now because they were fun times.

Now, Beijing is a really sophisticated international city with a lot of options for food, drink and entertainment. Beijingers have a great deal of choice and the market is competitive.

Based on your recent trips to Beijing, what places have impressed you?
I love Dongbei food so I usually head to the nearest dumpling restaurant I can find.