Beijing Boyce

I was wondering how to lead this post about Apothecary, a place with a DIY approach that I still appreciate but execution that is increasingly irksome.

I thought I might start with a comment made by a friend during a recent visit: “I really liked this place when it first opened, but now….” Or quote blog readers who have criticized everything from the service speed to the drink value to the “sit-down policy” to the management’s attitude. Or note that despite being open four months and generally making above-average drinks, the place makes mistakes on orders (three times during my last five visits) and uses subpar garnishes at times–both hard to stomach given the modest pours and high prices.

Or to compare it to Xiu and D Lounge, two places that still draw crowds but have alienated some people. Or to write about how a guy who is friends with one of the owners came over to talk to me and then gave me the “Why do you come here if you don’t like it?” spiel — actually, it had been weeks since my last visit and I dropped by in light of so many reader complaints. Or, given all this, to jokingly suggest some potential drinks for the menu — Shut Up, Just Sit; If You Don’t Like It, Get Out; Taking Ourselves Way Too Seriously, Our Poop Doesn’t Stink.

Then someone told me about this review on City Weekend. It rings true with me:

When this place first opened I loved it. However, the spiraling sense of self-importance has morphed it into something insufferable. Its like the bar equivalent of a pompous guy who has a couple of drinks and talks nonstop about his lifetime of accomplishments.

Conceptually, a bar that treats mixology with such reverence is great… but in practice its just obnoxious. The drinks are lovingly created… sure… too bad they take about 20 minutes apiece to be hand-crafted and arrive, even when the place is empty.

And what in God’s name is the “must be seated at all times” policy? I stood at the bar to talk to a friend (since you’re all lined up in a row and can’t practically speak to anyone beyond the person to your immediate left and right) and was chided by the manager, and told they have a policy that requires patrons to be seated at all times. Are you kidding? Is this place a bar or a kindergarten? Will I get my knuckles rapped if I talk with my mouth full? Maybe a bouncer will toss me if I smack my gum? Seriously… its just silly.

The author goes on to criticize the bartending practices as well: see here.

It saddens me to see people who were originally satisifed with their experiences at Apothecary late last year become not only disappointed but also offended over time, especially in cases where I introduced them to the place. I hope the situation changes: some of Apothecary’s drinks are unique to Beijing, the location in the heart of Sanlitun is good, and I enjoy talking to the two bartenders-owners who run cocktail-whiskey joints Er and Twilight. But I am nevertheless among those who have become increasingly disappointed and are taking their cocktail kuai elsewhere.

Imagine these cars are chickens and it all makes sense. (Pic credit)

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Two Sanlitun establishments are playing a game of chicken — fried chicken. Jacksonville native Zach “Chicken Koop” Lewison, chef at Union Bar & Grille, and New Orleans native Max “Leaping Gizzard” Levy, the man behind the kitchen at Apothecary, both plan to let fly this Sunday with a weekly southern fried chicken dinner.

The dinner at Apothecary, which will include buttermilk biscuits, is one of numerous weekly specials planned at this place — look for Tasmanian oysters on the half shell on Wednesdays. (For imbibers, the obvious good news is that Apothecary will now be open on Sundays.) Meanwhile, the Union dinner will include biscuits, mashed potatoes, green beans, and pink lemonade.

Actually, I’m exaggerating that there is some kind of competition – I just wanted to use that Rebel Without a Cause photo. In fact, I’ve seen Levy in Union enjoying the Reuben sandwiches and Lewison in Apothecary sipping cocktails, and look forward to trying their takes on southern fried chicken.

And as for the title of this post, yes, it is riff on Zoolander and it does assumes chickens go “bawk bawk“, not cluck cluck.

Come out cooking and, remember, no hits below the beak.

The Grouch says The Grouch likes snipers making Sazeracs.

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A special report by regular contributor The Village Grouch, who not only went on a Saturday night pub crawl, but also – in the spirit of wrestler The Rock, NBA star Karl Malone, and actor Kurt Russell as Jack Burton* in Big Trouble in Little China – refers to himself in the third person.

“The Village Grouch was out Saturday night in the company of intrepid combat photographer Slim, who just recently returned from the front.

“First stop was Apothecary (map) to see if the Boyce taste was still intact, and indeed it is. Apothecary is a class act – clean floor, good lighting, and bartenders that are snipers rather than machine gunners. Even in cold November, the mint julep was refreshing, striking a fine balance between taste and punch. TVG then ordered a house special, the Sazerac, which was a fine drink that sipped and sipped and sipped. Drinks aren’t cheap and pours aren’t generous, but TVG didn’t go to Apothecary for that and is looking forward to his next visit.

“A quick stop at Luga’s (map) found the place about half full, the beers cold and reasonably priced, and the nachos serviceable.

“Walking across the vast Sanlitun plateau through the Village and across to the stadium, we found Fubar (map) was wall-to-wall, with a pleasantly higher proportion of female patrons than in its earlier days. Chad kindly bought TVG and Slim their first round — a Hendrick’s Gin and tonic, served the way the maker wants it, with cucumber, not lime or lemon. TVG, a staunch Tanqueray 10 fan, became an immediate convert. Away, wretched lime!

“Two of those later, the place was still full, but our duo moved on to Beijing’s only venue regularly referred to as a bar, church and embassy — Maggie’s (map). Reports of a return to the old days of larger crowds proved true upon our 1:30 AM arrival — the place was heaving, even without hearing Lady Gaga on the sound system. A good mix of people, fast, efficient bar service, and lots to look at maintain the venue’s status as a top after-hours place.

“On an F&B note — the improvement in service at Union Bar & Grille (map) since the recent arrival of Everton-supporting manager Andy is pronounced. Aside from being an all-around nice guy, he is clearly applying the constant pressure and support the wait staff has needed but was sorely lacking prior. The Zack-Andy kitchen-front of house combo is a solid one and TVG hopes both will remain in place for some time to come.

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* An example of Jack Burton in third-person action:

When some wild-eyed, eight-foot-tall maniac grabs your neck, taps the back of your favorite head up against the barroom wall, looks you crooked in the eye and asks you if you paid your dues, you just stare that big sucker right back in the eye, and you remember what ol’ Jack Burton always says at a time like that: “Have you paid your dues, Jack? Yessir, the check is in the mail.”

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Dropped into new Nali Studio joint Apothecary thrice on the weekend and enjoyed the vibe and drinks. As mentioned, this place is just down from Mosto (map), is taking the DIY route for many ingredients (bitters, olives, syrups, etc.), and has a special focus on classic American cocktails. This should turn out to be among the more interesting openings this season, especially as the place fine-tunes the service (a bit slow at times) and ingredients (those olives pack some punch!), though it already offers a good atmosphere for enjoying an Old-fashioned or a Side Car. The “pre-opening” hours are 6 PM until late, Tuesday to Sunday.

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Expect to find everything from Satan’s Whiskers to Algonquins among the cocktails on offer at Apothecary: Cocktails and Dining when it opens just down from Mosto (map) in Nali Studio in about a week (I will post the opening date when it is confirmed). The dog-legged space is light and spartan but homey, with white walls, pine shelves, black seats, an oak counter, and plenty of stainless steel behind the bar. Leon Lee, one of the owners and former manager of OT Lounge, says the initial menu will have about 40 cocktails – including 20 not found on Beijing lists  – with a focus on vintage American recipes. They include three versions of the  Sazerac – one with brandy, one with rye, and one with both. (Expect a bit of history behind the drinks if Lee is behind the bar.) The co-owners of Japanese cocktail and whiskey bar Er (map) are also involved as investors.

Lee also notes that many of the cocktail ingredients will be homemade, including the bitters, the grenadine, the olives in brine, and the syrups. He says the juice will be freshly squeezed daily and the ice – in shard, shaving, chip, and ball form – will be chiseled from blocks made with water distilled four times. There will also be a handful of wines, Champagnes, and beers available.

Lee describes the food menu, designed by Max Levy of Bei (map) in the Opposite House, as “a contemporary twist on Creole food“. It ranges from corn dogs to duck, pork, and okra gumbo to buttermilk biscuits. He adds that everything from the mustard to the mayonnaise will be made homemade and that kitchen will cure its own ham, bacon, and sausage.

The hours at Apothecary will initially be from 6 PM until late, with plans to open at lunch come the new year.

Note: With all these homemade ingredients, isn’t this the perfect place to do a reverse of Happy Hour and hold a Bitter Hour, with specials on cocktails made with bitters?