Beijing Boyce

My spirits were high when Agent Red Wolf, O-Zone, Flash and I attended the November 24 Summergate wine tasting at China Lounge (150 kuai). Not only would we sample seven wines produced by the owner of Petrus, but also O-Zone and Flash import vino and would, one might think, have something useful to say. On top of this, Summergate provides tasting notes in a handy booklet that is perfect for geeks like me who arrive pen in hand.

We started with Jean Pierre Moueix (JPM) Bordeaux AOC 2003 (167 kuai), which seemed a bit sour and had a weak finish, and Christian Moueix Merlot 2003 (191 kuai), which was tastier, with strong cherry and slightly spicy aromas. The JPM Saint-Emilion AOC 2003 (299 kuai) and Pomerol AOC 2002 (395 kuai) were fine, although I didn’t find the bodies as full as indicated by the tasting notes, but the Chateau Grand Village 2001 (227 kuai) was musty and disappointing.

I enjoyed the last two wines. The JPM Chateau Plince 2001 (743 kuai) had plenty of acid, lots of ripe cherry flavors and good aftertaste. O-Zone described it as “round,” Agent Red Wolf loved it, and I thought it got better by the minute. The Chateau La Grave 2001 (827 kuai) had a consistent nose, with candy apple and fruit scents. I wrote “mouth joy” in my notes for some reason.

I was in agreement with O-Zone, who described the first four wines as “all nicely drinkable so far, but none of them have left an impression.” It may be that my amateur palate is not up to French wines, but I can’t see myself paying these prices for these wines. The same goes for the last two: while they were delicious, at about 100 dollars a bottle I’ll next be trying them when someone else foots the bill. Luckily, in this case, we tried all seven wines for 150 kuai, which was decent value, as evidenced by the crowded room.

What could be more appropriate after sampling French wine than loading up on Mexican food on Sanlitun North? First, Flash had to make a drop off at the nearby “diplomatic apartments.” We drove there and waited in the car while he went to the trunk, hauled out a box and gave it to a man who emerged from the apartments. Then he got back in the car.

Me: “What was in the box?”
Flash: [Smiles]
Me: “Come on, what’s in it?”
Flash: [Short pause] “Wine”
Me: “So why was that guy wearing a bathrobe?”

There followed a long pause. I find in moments such as these, whistling a TV theme song, such as that for Gilligan’s Island or The Smurfs, can do wonders. Given the nationalities of those in the car, Hogan’s Heroes seemed appropriate.

We headed for Saddle, which is across from Tongli Studio and enables us to order food from the new, nearby and affiliated Cox, and soon faced a table loaded with burritos, salads, cheese sticks, wings and the like. After the Summergate tasting, our palates were finely tuned, and we matched this feast with ice-cold Qingdao. As for the food, I found that the wings were a rocky marriage of sauce and meat, while the burritos were outstanding, with a hearty nose and hints of Tabasco.

We then waddled down to Shooters, where I treated Flash and O-Zone to Pink Panties (Vodka, Peach Schnapps and something I can’t recall). The experience was so compelling that we had not left and gone 100 meters from the place when both of them had second thoughts and we returned for a few more shots, including one bearing an unprintable name.

We finished the evening by visiting Opener? (see review in issue XXVII), which is in the less than inspiring Jianwai Soho complex and run by the former owner of First Cafe, where I first met O-Zone, Flash and Agent Red Wolf. The music, lighting and ambiance were subdued. With Budweiser in hand, it was a relaxing finish to an evening that spanned Petrus, Pink Panties and Bordeaux, and showed just how cosmopolitan is our fair city.

(From Beijing Boyce XXVIII, first emailed on December 23, 2006)

A beautiful sunny and breezy Sunday, the rooftop garden at The Bookworm, a coffee on the way, my fingers tapping out this newsletter — it sounds as though all is well in the universe. Unfortunately, something sad unfolds before me. First Cafe, which instantly became my favorite bar after I arrived in Beijing and which is across the way from The Bookworm, is being destroyed. Dust rises and plaster falls at the bidding of sledgehammers; a few soldiers in the small army of destruction workers hacksaw through the roof’s metal skeleton; others cart away rubble. The building is increasingly emaciated, with the only distinguishing mark being the Romanesque trimming. First Cafe was my great escape when I was a newcomer struggling to adjust to living and working in Beijing, and a visit there meant meeting old friends, new friends and soon-to-be friends, including newsletter regulars Agent Red Wolf and M-Dawg. But nothing lasts forever claim sappy rock ballads and even sappier R&B songs, and that includes this bar, disappearing before my eyes, broken brick by broken brick. So, to all the First Cafe fans — and there are dozens on this mailing list — this coming weekend raise a glass and toast the end of one of our city’s most special watering holes.

(From Beijing Boyce XXI, first emailed on July 27, 2006)

Due to the weather, this Japanese restaurant and sometimes live jazz venue was hot enough to inspire a sweat, but not to convince management to turn on the air conditioners, meaning Agent Red Wolf and I did our research in stuffy surroundings. The place has above-average drinks, with the Long Island refreshing and the dirty Martini stirred at the table and garnished with a black olive (it wasn’t particularly dirty, but went down fine). I’ll follow up with a few more visits, although that unfortunately means wading again through those Sanlitun lady bar touts (”looka looka!“).

(From Beijing Boyce XVI, first emailed on May 11, 2006)

I recently helped lead a pub crawl (see below), and as a reward for not losing any patrons or misdirecting any buses to Inner Mongolia, Agent Red Wolf ordered me a Flaming Lamborghini at Browns. Frankly, this beverage is in the same category as nonalcoholic beer, Chivas and green tea, and anything M-Dawg drinks (see the Grand Marnier and Soda incident; Beijing Boyce V).

But the intention was noble, so I settled back as manager Glenn and supervisor Jackie arranged a pyramid of glasses, startled drizzling alcohol over it, and then - whoosh - set the thing alight. I don’t like fire; even less, I don’t like sticking my face near fire; even less than less, I don’t like sticking my face near fire beside two guys who work in a bar that I might have criticized once (or perhaps twice).Use the straw,” said Glenn. I stuck my face forward, tried to get at the liquid among the flames, and then retreated, having swallowed half a melted straw.

You have to do it faster,” he added, no stranger to stating the obvious. Meanwhile, the alcohol Jackie continued pouring onto the bonfire of glasses splashed onto the table, which — whoosh — also caught fire.

With a large crowd behind, I was wedged against the table and thus helpless as flames raced across it and toward an area of my body I consider quite personal. Time seemed to slow; the music seemed to garble; I had a “my life flashed before my eyes” moment. I remembered other near-death experiences in Beijing: that grilled meat platter at Schindler’s, that horrid martini at Palms, my attempt to cross a street that very morning. I also had a lingering thought: might I make money writing a screenplay about becoming a eunuch, by flame, in modern-day Beijing?

This, of course, all happened in a split second. Suddenly, Glenn swooped in and pushed back the flames with a cloth, to which the flames responded by rushing forth again, to which Glenn responded by again swooping, and so on, until I realized the problem: JACKIE WAS STILL POURING ALCOHOL ON THE FIRE!

I put an end to that. I grabbed the two shot glasses and drained the contents, little realizing they were close to boiling hot. Not pleasant, but then again, swollen lips are preferable to becoming a charred tribute to careless Flaming Lamborginiing. At least, I thought it was careless, until I had the following conversation with Glenn, a few days later:

“That was really wild the other night. You guys almost lit me on fire.”“Almost doesn’t count.”

“Yes, but it was pretty close.”

“Perhaps not close enough.”

“It was close enough for me!”

“Did I ever tell you about an annoying patron I used to know named Flaming Fred?”"What do you mean ‘used to know’!?”

Okay, I made that last part up. But, then again, I wouldn’t be surprised to hear Glenn say it. By the way, try the burgers at Browns. They’re cooked, over fire, one that’s far away from the patrons. (Note: Certain details have been dramatized or deleted, including the changing of a pair of underwear, in order to make this story flow.)

(From Beijing Boyce XV, first emailed on April 21, 2006)

The World of Suzie Wong’s: This stalwart of the Beijing bar scene has added a larger dance floor and bar (with ample red velour) on the first floor. First, the drinks: Agent Red Wolf’s Mojito was so-so, while my Manhattan was better than average. Second, the staff uniform: it’s a cross between Spartacus and the get-ups that the reasonable, peace-loving races typically wear in science fiction movies (olive wreaths would work here). Third, the clientele: a woman stands alone; a man approaches, shakes her hand and introduces himself; within three minutes they are playing doctor (I don’t think that’s her heart, buddy). This could be one of the few places in town that makes Maggies seem innocent. Even so, Suzie’s world was hopping, the drinks were okay and there is always the third floor or deck for a breather.

(From Beijing Boyce XV, first emailed on April 21, 2006)

Relaxed ambience, cloth napkins, polished silverware, attentive service, and all at reasonable prices. It’s a pleasant place to hang out and a hard one to leave, although M-Dawg took exception to the deck: “New York has the Brooklyn Bridge, San Francisco has the Golden Gate Bridge, Cafe Igosso has the Guomao Bridge.”

The pizza had a thin crust and perfect amount of blue cheese (52 kuai). As for the cocktails, Agent Red Wolf thought the Mojito okay (thanks to Galia for the recommendation), although the Bloody Mary (38 kuai) was mild and watery. The Martini came with no olives, as requested, but neither did it have a twist, though it matched well with the pizza. Overall, Le Cafe Igosso offered a decent experience and seems ideal for a first date or meeting a few friends.

(From Beijing Boyce XV, first emailed on April 21, 2006)

My first “consulting” gig was two weeks ago as I was responsible — never before have I been paired with that word — for taking some three dozen visitors, from nearly every continent, on a pub crawl. Agent Red Wolf tagged along, but didn’t do much, except negotiate prices, direct buses, entertain guests, recommend drinks — the minor stuff. We first headed to Nuage, a relaxing spot with a great view of both Houhai and the drum and bell towers. With a few drinks and some Vietnamese food under our belts, we decided to indulge in “history” and went to Suzie Wong’s, which is among Beijing’ oldest clubs and has that opium den feel (plus, it was warm enough to sit on the deck). We then gathered our forces, save for the dozen of so defectors who either went back to the hotel (”8 AM climb on The Great Wall. What kind of excuse it that?”) or to Karaoke (”Hey, don’t you have an 8 AM climb?), and took our magic buses to Browns. There, manager Glenn Phelan’s smiling face greeted us at the door and the bar’s tasty snacks (Buffalo-style wings again!) greeted us inside. After a bit of boogying, a bit of people watching and a bit of drinking, we packed off our patrons to the hotel, who I hope were happy with their Beijing bar-hopping experience.

(From Beijing Boyce XV, first emailed on April 21, 2006)

This Centro wannabe in Wangfujing has hints of Austin Powers and “Buck Rogers in the Twenty-first Century” in its decor. It seems aimed at the nouveau rich and hotel guests on expense accounts, though the service needs work. Case in point: my order of a “martini” was almost mistranslated as “lemon tea” (yes, I like my cha stirred, not shaken). No one asked if I wanted vodka or gin, though a request for no olives brought the suggestion of a lemon twist (good idea). The martini turned out to be watery, and the lemon — untwisted (well, at least the intentions were good). Agent Red Wolf was unimpressed with the Long Island. The place seats hundreds, but there were only seven of us that night, though to be fair, the place is new and will need time to build a clientele. The band is fine (the singer doubles as a flutist), but was followed by a sleep-inducing medley of tunes, including elevator versions of Blowin’ in the Wind, Scarborough Fair and Jambalaya (on the Bayou).

(From Beijing Boyce XIV, first emailed on April 6, 2006)

Whether in a five-star hotel lounge or a dingy bar on Sanlitun South, few people are as objective when evaluating a cocktail as is Agent Red Wolf (RW). She can block out any surrounding chaos and focus solely on the quality of a given beverage. Simply put, when lip meets glass, not even the shiniest object can distract her. Here are her top five Mojitos, with the establishment’s name (in alphabetical order), followed by the drink price (as closely as can be remembered), number of visits, and comments (if any).

Beer Mania: ~35 kuai; 2 visits; “This is closer to a tailor-made drink; you should only have the Mojito at Beer Mania if Marc [the manager] is making them.”

Centro: ~70 kuai+15%; 10+ visits; “Centro and Redmoon consistently make a high-quality Mojito.”

Garden of Delights: ~70 kuai; 1 visit; “The mint was fresh and the rum was good, though I asked for more soda water, as their Mojito was too sweet for me.”

Redmoon: ~70 kuai+15%; 6-7 visits.

Suzy Wong: ~40 kuai; dozens of visits; “A lot of guys here are poseurs [yes, she picked up this word from me], but this place has good drinks.”

RW also recalled some Mojito memories from Beijing past.

First Cafe: 50 kuai; last year during the “GE [George and Echo] era;” (now, says RW, the Mojito at First Cafe “is not even in the top 20″).

Havana : 40 kuai; more than two years ago.

Latinos: 40 kuai; until recently.

For more details on RW’s rankings, email agent_redwolf@yahoo.com (”No poseurs,” she says).

(From Beijing Boyce XIV, first emailed on April 6, 2006)

Popular bartenders George Zhou and Echo Sun left Midnight bar two weeks ago, following a run-in with management, about six months after they left First Cafe, following a run-in with management. It’s a serious situation for those who enjoy quality cocktails. Echo continues to manage Cafe Pause in the 798 art district, while George is doing consulting. Their next moves are eagerly awaited. / Dawn breaks after even the darkest midnight and new bartender Alex at 10-kuai Qingdao joint Phil’s is a ray of sunshine. He can mix up a tasty Mojito, Bloody Mary and Long Island, the latter coming with a splash of Grand Marnier and impressing finicky Agent Red Wolf. Alex is usually (no guarantees) behind the bar on Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday nights, the latter best avoided given the rowdy all-you-can-drink-Qingdao-for-30-kuai crowd). / Cajun cooking and wasabi together at last? Chef Dan Segall, whose photo is a mainstay in Beijing’s English-language magazines, has left Hilton Hotel’s Louisiana Restaurant and next month will join the Japanese-focused kitchen at RBL. / John Bull Pub is holding “entry-level” wine tasting on some Fridays (6 to 8 PM), with takeaway bottles at 80 kuai or less. Chilean, Australian and Chinese wines have been featured. Call 6532-5905 for details. / This could be the year of outdoor eating, drinking and reading in Beijing. Owner Alex Pearson gave me a tour of Bookworm’s new rooftop garden, which has a flagstone path, seats 48, and should be open by today. (By the way, given how loud and crowded the Bookworm is at times, how long before someone–Alex herself?–opens a similar spot elsewhere?). Alongside favorites such as Bar Blu, Steak and Eggs, Stone Boat and numerous Hou Hai spots, Bookworm joins newcomers Le Petit Gourmand, Frank’s Place, 5:19, Pomegranate, Browns, Pavillion and others in the great outdoors seating competition. / Pavilion will add an extension in order to add a Mediterranean restaurant. Richard Xavia (ex-RBL) and Richard Mills (ex-Aria) are consulting. On one hand, the shift is understandable as about-to-open Frank’s Place will siphon some of Pavillion’s sports-loving patrons (Frank’s Place investor Roger Dutton and Pavillion proprietor Russell Probert were once co-owners of the old Frank’s Place). On the other, this smacks of yet another attempt to bring Shanghai not only to Beijing (see RBL), but also to an establishment that already lacks focus and staff training (example: the numerous occasions when no employees on hand were able to work the TVs). / As for Dutton, he says Trio, which will house a New York-style grill, the new Frank’s Place and the wine-centric The Cellar, should be open by early May. Nicole Pang has been hired as part of the PR and marketing team. / No frowns at Browns as the large empty space meant for tequila and Whisky rooms has instead been quickly finished to handle overflow from the main area. The place was packed to the gills on St. Patrick’s Day. My biggest gripe after a dozen visits: the music. My advice: forget the muddled DJ sets and instead put in a “Funky 80s Hits” CD, hit random play and let people have fun. (For more on Browns, see We Got Mail.) / Wine whiz Ethan Perk writes that the new Schindler’s, on the old Riverside Cafe site, is hopping, even on a Tuesday night at 6:30: “They were packed, not a seat in the house.” / Shunyi is starting to blossom. An upcoming that’s Beijing map lists more than 100 shops, restaurants and bars in the district. While Shunyi is still a bit light in the latter two categories, Palette Vino, Jenny Lou’s and Pomegranate are leading the way, and the first fixed location for caterer Harry’s Kitchen is apparently set to open. / Sequoia Cafe has a tasty 30-kuai chicken pita and salad combo at lunch. The place delivers, but if you order by fax, follow-up by phone, as the machine is sometimes off. / Finally, if an afternoon spent listening to 1950s German folk songs sounds like fun, try Cafe Pause in Dashanzi. You can slowly go mad while using the free wireless.

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

Durty Nellie’s is big and in a basement, and has stone walls and wood trimming, and everything from a sit down bar to a pool table to a stage. It was pretty much deserted when Agent Red Wolf and I visited, on a Friday night, and was thus a bit depressing, though I’ve heard it is fun when crowded. My Bloody Mary looked weak and tasted sweet (sugar-laden local juice, perhaps?) while Red Wolf generously described her margarita as average and lamented that the old Durty Nellie’s was better. The location is a bit inconvenient and the facade needs some work, but with a paint of coat outside and some people inside, perhaps…

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

The Big Easy faces imminent destruction and this apparently has instilled a sense of futility in the bartenders. Agent Red Wolf, EC, GZ and I visited two Saturdays and found the Mojito quite poor and the usually dependable Bloody Mary so mild that EC added our fiery chicken wing dipping sauce to give it zip. (Strangely, hers came stirred, mine came shaken.) Then there was the bartender making a martini. First, he fruitlessly tried spearing olives from the jar, thus leaving the drink in the shaker too long. Then, he used the rounded edge of another container to strain, thus dumping ice into the glass. Then, he tried to pour the drink–including the ice but excluding the olives–back into the shaker and, frustrated, poked his fingers into the glass. Ai ya! I plan to visit Big Easy a few times yet and hope to leave with a better final memory than this.

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

It was Friday night, 2:30 AM, Agent Red Wolf had called nearly a dozen pizza places - Buona, Papa John’s, you name it - and none could deliver. The hunger mounted, mirages materialized, unconsciousness neared, and with my last bit of energy I hoarsely whispered, “The Den.” Lo and behold, less than 30 minutes later, two pizzas and two burgers were at the door (130 RMB; thanks to GZ for the treat). Nourished, I then recalled someone saying that The Den had a good happy hour, so I popped down there the following Thursday with M-Dawg and Pony. The deal: drinks and pizzas are half-price from 5-10 PM (sorry, I can’t remember which days). The meal: five pies (eight-inch, thin crust and tasty), two pints of Guinness, three pints of Qingdao and two drinks for 230 kuai. Except for spotting a (small) bug wander across the bar top, it was a very happy hour.

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

Six months after my last visit, I returned with M-Dawg and Pony, primarily because our first choice for brunch was closed. (Way to go, Modern Nomads: Next time, prepare a brunch before you advertise it.) Frankly, W really bothers me. First, the buffet brunch (58 kuai, sans drinks): there are plenty of choices, but many are mediocre, and besides the passable sausage and the bacon-wrapped chicken, the “Brazilian BBQ” meat is nothing special. Second, the decor: foosball table, ping pong table and dart board; DJ booth and disco ball; sofas, table seating and barstools; ping pong paraphernalia, modern art and a Sergeant Pepper’s plate on the walls. It’s like being at a trade show for bar and restaurant themes. Finally, the projectiles: is it just me or is it annoying to have ping pong balls zinging at the table during lunch? On the plus side, the place was half-full, so it seems there are Beatles-ping pong-disco-so-so-salad fans out there.

(From Beijing Boyce XIII, first emailed on March 24, 2006)

Browns put its money where its mouth is by holding an all-night two-for-one party two weeks ago. The special didn’t suddenly end halfway through the evening when the owner panicked about losing money. It wasn’t limited to those drinks that are dirt cheap to make. And the drinks themselves were not watered down. It all raised the question: Was this really happening in Beijing? I mean, did I really witness from opening to closing - which came sometime after I left at 4 AM - Guinness and Kilkenny for a mere 17.5 kuai per pint? Browns move shocked some bar owners, particularly since Guinness costs them around 30 kuai a pint, but to me it made perfect sense. The bar lost money on the draft, made money on the mixed drinks, and on the night ended up just below break-even, a loss that was a fraction of the cost of a magazine ad and that was necessary to show off the place to hundreds of people. It’s called marketing.

I’ve now been to Browns about ten times, either for drinks or food, and it has the potential of becoming the year’s best bar. (Its impact is already evident from the scores of wine, food, hotel, and bar industry people checking it out). First, the investors (11 in total) have put money not only into hardware, but also into software. The hardware was fairly easy since the bar is a knockoff of Carnegie’s in Taipei, with everything copied from the list of 366 shooters to the general layout, which includes a standing area, tiered seating, and a long bar that can hold both drinks and dancers. In terms of software, Browns has hired employees from Beijing, Hong Kong, The Philippines and Ireland, and is putting money into marketing.

Second, Browns is unpretentious. The clientele includes expatriates and locals, equal numbers of men and women, and everyone from twenty-something students to sixty-something CEOs. Blue jeans and blue pinstripe suits are equally welcome. Third, the location is good, near the Bookworm, Midnight, Banana Leaf and numerous other places. These establishments are bringing an increasing number of customers to the area and complementing one other. Fourth, it is something new. Love it or hate it, the people I talked to saw it as clearly different from other bars in town (everyone except Agent Red Wolf, who called it “a big Suzie Wong’s”).

Unsurprisingly, given it is a new bar, all is not perfect. Browns does not take credit cards, the menu is full of mistakes (“Long Sex Island Beach”) and some employees have incredible difficulty understanding drink orders (my friend Pony suggests numbering the shooter specials: “number three” is easier for non-English speaking staff to comprehend than “Fisherman’s Wharf” or “Hell on Earth”). Extremely annoying wall monitors are everywhere. And Eddie O, at Browns last Saturday night, says, “You should never ask, “How would you like your ribs done?” That’s just not a question you ask about ribs.”

Worst of all is the inconsistent music. During the two-for-one party, the DJ played plenty of recognizable if sometimes cheesy songs, including hits by eighties artists ranging from Billy Idol to Soft Cell to Michael Jackson. One week later? After hours of soul-draining dance tunes, the DJ suddenly yelled, “My name is Matt and I am your maestro!” (Yawn.) Really, do we need someone to shout things like “Let’s get the party started and, uh, uh, uh… it’s two for one!” It gives the place all the class of a small-town high school dance. (I also get the feeling that Browns is trying a bit too hard to get the dance-on-the-bar-top thing going.) Carnegie’s in Taipei thrives because it is consistent, including with its music. It’s a good model to follow and if Browns is as clever at running the bar as it was in opening it, this place should succeed.

(By the way, if someone says “this is the hottest bar in town” at the very moment you are listening to Michael Jackson’s “Beat It,” having a rather regular gin and tonic and watching two nerdy expatriates try to pick up a pair of local cuties, does that say more about Browns or about the local bar scene?)

(From Beijing Boyce XI, first emailed on February 23, 2006)

Browns (Sanlitun South; 22:45) Carnegie’s in Taipei is famous (infamous?) as the city’s most raucous night spot, featuring great service, a massive beverage selection (including 366 shooters), an admirable layout and a long bar where the wilder (and usually drunker) clients get up and dance the night and early morning away. It’s a runaway success and now Browns is seeking to emulate it in Beijing (there are also Carnegie’s in Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Perth, and a Browns in London). With RJ heading home, Agent Red Wolf and WF joined us to check it out.

Although only open for two days, and having details to work out - the menu desperately needs a spell check: “Soff drinks”, “Carlsbery”, and on and on; there are some weird prices: 42 kuai for a martini, 43 kuai for a “martini favorite”; and the toilets need a cleaning - Browns has the potential to be a great bar and possibly the best of the year.

The martini was decent (though not particularly dry), the beer was reasonably priced (pints of Kilkenny and Guinness at 35 kuai), and the thin-crust pizza was tasty. The staff, which includes five Filipinos, was polite and efficient (though they could drop the “ma’am” and “sir” stuff). Lisa, who handled our table, was excellent. When Agent Red Wolf felt her Long Island Iced Tea needed more rum and lime, it was quickly topped up.

The long bar has a brass railing up top to keep the expected dancers from falling into the employees and massive shelves of alcohol. In front of the bar is a standing / dancing area, and behind that two levels of seating. The decor is flat black and white, with dark wood, brass and glass accents, and the walls contain music-themed pictures and instruments. The high ceilings will minimize smoke.

We had a nice chat with Lawrence Chen, the general manager, and Jacky Kong, the supervisor, who said they plan to open adjoining Mexican, Japanese and other themed rooms. Hmmm. In any case, it’s a great start for Browns, with the only downside being that the spotlights and dance music were out of sync with the feel of the bar, especially given the sparse crowd. It just doesn’t seem right to have electric guitars and pictures of Jimi Hendrix on the walls and then only play music typified by Black Eyed Peas’ “My Humps.”

(From Beijing Boyce IX, first emailed on January 26, 2006; this writeup is also included in the post “A Beijing Saturday night” and is listed separately here in order to included it in the “First Impressions” category.)

Last Saturday night was supposed to entail getting together with friends for a few drinks. Instead, it turned into a bar-hopping marathon. I don’t typically stay out until the wee hours any more, but this was an exception:

Beer Mania (Sanlitun South; 20:15): You rarely go wrong by starting a night with a few Belgian brews, so RJ, SW and I met at Beer Mania. We pretty much had the place to ourselves as we sampled seven different beers, including a nice Rochefort. Manager Marc van Bever is planning to do beer tastings every Thursday. Patrons get to sample ten beers for 150 kuai. Call 13126-904-396 for details.

Browns (Sanlitun South; 22:45) Carnegie’s in Taipei is famous (infamous?) as the city’s most raucous night spot, featuring great service, a massive beverage selection (including 366 shooters), an admirable layout and a long bar where the wilder (and usually drunker) clients get up and dance the night and early morning away. It’s a runaway success and now Browns is seeking to emulate it in Beijing (there are also Carnegie’s in Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Perth, and a Browns in London). With RJ heading home, Agent Red Wolf and WF joined us to check it out.

Although only open for two days, and having details to work out - the menu desperately needs a spell check: “Soff drinks”, “Carlsbery”, and on and on; there are some weird prices: 42 kuai for a martini, 43 kuai for a “martini favorite”; and the toilets need a cleaning - Browns has the potential to be a great bar and possibly the best of the year.

The martini was decent (though not particularly dry), the beer was reasonably priced (pints of Kilkenny and Guinness at 35 kuai), and the thin-crust pizza was tasty. The staff, which includes five Filipinos, was polite and efficient (though they could drop the “ma’am” and “sir” stuff). Lisa, who handled our table, was excellent. When Agent Red Wolf felt her Long Island Iced Tea needed more rum and lime, it was quickly topped up.

The long bar has a brass railing up top to keep the expected dancers from falling into the employees and massive shelves of alcohol. In front of the bar is a standing / dancing area, and behind that two levels of seating. The decor is flat black and white, with dark wood, brass and glass accents, and the walls contain music-themed pictures and instruments. The high ceilings will minimize smoke.

We had a nice chat with Lawrence Chen, the general manager, and Jacky Kong, the supervisor, who said they plan to open adjoining Mexican, Japanese and other themed rooms. Hmmm. In any case, it’s a great start for Browns, with the only downside being that the spotlights and dance music were out of sync with the feel of the bar, especially given the sparse crowd. It just doesn’t seem right to have electric guitars and pictures of Jimi Hendrix on the walls and then only play music typified by Black Eyed Peas’ “My Humps.”

Palms (Chaoyang Park, South Gate; 00:30) Some random observations during my second visit to Palms: It’s in a mall; the menus are shaped like pianos and wine bottles; there are too many chairs; the men’s and women’s toilets are far from spotless and there was no toilet paper (again). When I ordered a martini, the waiter asked, “With ice”?

On the positive side, the management and staff at Palms are extremely friendly and open to comments. Something is amiss, though. Maybe it simply needs some fine-tuning with the drinks (my martini was sub-par) and decor. Or maybe the live music doesn’t fit the environment (or maybe it’s good in a bad way, depending on your taste). When I hear a band member shout out “everyone, sing along!” for “Jesus Christ Superstar”, I have to ask, Does anyone in the place know that song, let alone the words? Would it not be better to have fewer songs in English and more in Mandarin (a la Teresa Deng and Faye Wong), thus drawing a moneyed Chinese crowd that would enjoy being in a big interactive KTV lounge?

By the by, after the set ended, SW started shouting out “Phantom of the Opera!” and got into in protracted negotiations with the singer that eventually ended with the band doing a raucous, if slightly over the top, rendition of “Don’t Cry For Me, Argentina.” That was the high point.

Nashville (Maizidian; 01:40) When we rolled into Nashville, we figured the place would be half-empty and the band finished. Instead, there was a good crowd on hand and singer-guitarist Chris had the place rocking. Bar-goers hooted out requests and sang along, and one patron got up and sang The House of the Rising Sun. (Note: This is the atmosphere for Palms to create.) Good times all around as Chris cranked out everything from Lynyrd Skynyrd to Bryan Adams to Johnny Cash. Agent Red Wolf and WB both thought the Long Island Iced Teas were good.

Maggie’s (Ritan Park, South Gate; 02:50) We dropped SW off on our way home and then decided last-minute to keep the night going. The new Maggie’s is much tamer than the old and the layout is too narrow, but as Agent Red Wolf points out, they play fun music. We hit the dance floor and unloaded a few of the calories picked up earlier in the night.

As usual, there were ample people-watching opportunities, with the guy beside us falling asleep on, and then falling off, his chair. He lay on the floor, apparently unconscious, for a few minutes. The security guards propped him up and then he suddenly popped back to life. I suspect something stronger than alcohol was in his system. Anyway, this incident seemed to inspire another man to move in on WF and it wasn’t long before we spirited her away. To our horror, the hot dog stand outside had already closed!

Agent Red Wolf and I dropped off WF and decided that, sans hot dogs, we needed food. Where to go? The Den? Bellagio? 7-ELEVEN? We ended up at Dacheng Jie (beside Gino’s) and pigged out on dumplings, xiaolongbao, soybean milk and more. We briefly considered hitting one more spot, but decided to end the morning on a high note and get some sleep before Sunday brunch.

(From Beijing Boyce IX, first emailed on January 26, 2006)

When I wrote in an earlier newsletter about service at Zing at Doodoo’s, someone told me to give the new management another chance. I did, last Sunday, accompanied by the ever-dynamic Agent Red Wolf (RW). Let’s start with positives: The place has good hardware, with plenty of comfy seating (though the sofas are a bit low), two bars, a central area with tables and high chairs, and a nifty little dance club downstairs. (The trick will be to attract enough people upstairs to make the place lively and to maintain the dance floor between empty and overcrowded, not easy with such a limited space.) But Zing has some definite potential.

As for the food, it was okay, with the steak and cheese on baguette (RMB55) beating out the salami pizza (RMB 58), which had a leaden crust. Agent Red Wolf liked the music. There was some negligence, such as the waiters forgetting ketchup and new plates, the lack of toilet paper in the WC, and so on, even though there were five employees and only two patrons (us). We were also charged the regular prices for drinks instead of happy hour ones. An honest mistake, perhaps, but the waiter asked us to pay full fare anyway because “the bill is already printed.” (A second waiter later explained that the guy was new, but c’mon.) Finally, the table menu advertises Boys Night Out, Girls Night Out, Ladies Night, All About Tapas, and Brunch Buffet, but the staff says these events are no longer held. Even so, although Zing has some glitches to work out, this trip was definitely better than the last and it seems like a good place for a small party (though give the place some advance warning).

(From Beijing Boyce VI, first emailed on December 14, 2005)

While Morel’s, The Tree and others sell Belgian beers, Beer Mania is smaller, cozier and has information about each brew, with manager Marc van Buren providing recommendations upon request. Thus, as I sipped a Maredsous Triple (10%), I flipped through Petite Fute: Guide to Belgian Beers and learned that my beer’s “acidity, softness and bitterness make this clear blond with a persistent head a harmonious beer - balanced, round and full.” Superb! As for the Westmalle Triple (9.5%), I noticed the fruitiness even before reading about its “fruity and herby nose accompanied by notes of fresh hops.” Excellent! These beers are 35 kuai each during happy hour (regular price: 50 kuai). I’ve thrice visited Beer Mania since mentioning it in issue II, including last Saturday night with Agent Red Wolf and K-Dog [Kraft-D], who was in town from Shanghai. The place won’t win any awards for layout and decor, but is great for “shopping” for Belgian beers by perusing the glass-fronted refrigerator. K-Dog described Marc as a “perfect” manager – “he isn’t intrusive and appears just in time to recommend another beer.” My only suggestion: erect a wall or hang draperies in front of the toilet so patrons don’t get a view inside it each time the door is opened.

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)

This bar in Palm Springs Apartments’ mall apparently is being positioned as an alternative to Centro. Palms is smaller and snugger than Centro, though in both places you have to go outside for the toilet (in this case there wasn’t any toilet paper). It has a friendly staff, comfy chairs and a decent, though lifeless at times, band (save for the energetic keyboardist). The beverage list is a bit sparse for a high-end bar (one Italian wine). At the time of my visit, Palms had been open only ten days and Agent Red Wolf and I talked at length with the owners and general manager about our first impressions. My biggest one was that the vodka martini (60 kuai) lacked a key ingredient - vodka - as did its replacement. Eventually, with the general manager’s help - he sipped my martini and realized, “Hey, this has no vodka!” - I received a better-than-average, larger-than-normal drink. Red Wolf’s Mojito was light on the rum and she found the Screwdriver below par. Let’s hope Palms gets the drinks end of the business fixed ASAP.

(From Beijing Boyce VIII, first emailed on January 13, 2006)