Beijing Boyce

After a hard week spent working on my computer screen tan, I met The Village Grouch for a drink last weekend and ended up on a bit of a pub crawl.

D Lounge (map): This spot is on the street linking Salsa Caribe and Tun. The gist of the conversation with a guy at the door at 9:30 PM:

Him: [Moving to block door] “Can I help you?”

Me: “Yeah, we’d like to get a drink.”

Him: “Are you on the guest list?”

Me: “Um, no. But I can understand why having one is important, you know, to keep out the riffraff. You wouldn’t want them to bother the… oh, wait, there isn’t anyone here on a Friday night.

I had the impression D Lounge is a private club, but it appears there was a special event on this night, so I will attempt a second visit. Interesting that a place going for the high-end enters off the migration route of drunk students, wasted expatriates, drug dealers, and grouchy bloggers, among others. Then again, maybe that is part of its appeal…

1949: The former bar 1/5 (map) will reopen as two separate venues, according to an assistant manager that gave us an impromptu tour. Downstairs will continue to be dominated by a long narrow bar, have an extensive Champagne list, and sport a much lighter décor – think whites, creams, and floral patterns. Upstairs will feature a private club – this time think whiskey and cigars – and a décor heavy on flat gray. (By the way, good turnouts at 1949′s Sugar Bar, Duck de Chine, and the outdoor bar that looks like a giant illuminated toilet puck. Even Taverna was almost half full.)

Still seeking our first drink, we walked to Q Bar (map), first passing Tun (map), which was gearing up for another packed ladies night. Success. The Village Grouch had a Gin Tonic and tried to figure out why it tasted so good compared to his homemade concoctions using the same gin and tonic water. (It’s the ice, baby.) I went for my old standby, the Alfonso Special, which offers good bang for the buck.

Next stop, The Saddle Cantina (map), where four-fifths of Black Cat Bone were enjoying drinks on the deck. I often wonder why the owners didn’t put sibling establishment Side Saddle downstairs, which is usually empty, instead of on Nali’s south side, and thus save on rent and staff expenses. More foot traffic and exposure, I guess, but at least in my case, I used to go to Saddle Cantina for food and drinks, but now almost always go to Side Saddle, grab a burrito, and skip the beverages. Anyway, the deck remains pleasant and provides a view of the courtyard, where the tables opposite Saddle, Let’s Burger, soon-to-open Let’s Seafood, and Ciro’s Pomodoro were once again pretty much full.

Salud (map): We met Mr. Hao and Ms. Hao here and dipped into the homemade rum. I had the “Salud special“, though given it has 11 spices, I am renaming it the KFC shooter. These are dangerous drinks, given how big they are and how fast they go down.

Fubar (map): Where else can I get a honey vodka and ginger ale for RMB20? While the decor feels unfinished and the light above the bar reminds me of a combination of giant tanning booth and taillight, it is hard to beat this place for value. (Note: Fubar will close from September 15 to October 2.)

Maggie’s (map): This tends to be a love-it-or-hate-it place, but if Beijing bars were judged on lighting, staff efficiency, general design,and clean toilets, it would rank among the top five in Beijing. For example, the focused lights on the shelves of bottles that run above the circumference of the bar, the softer lights that expose the ceiling beams painted with traditional Chinese scenes, and the sparing use of neon and motion lighting all combine to provide a soft texture. I’m curious as to who put this all together…

A Tuesday night pub crawl is usually a bad idea, but sometimes – as with meteor strikes, power outages, and wedgies – it just happens. Such forays are increasingly rare for me, with last night being an exception. Here are the places visited, with a two-sentence write-up for each.

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Duck de Chine (1949: The Hidden City): I met a group of foodies and we sampled wines from Yunnan, Ningxia, and Hebei provinces and ate a tasty duck dinner (thanks to Justin Quek of Le Platane). Ducky does not describe the service, however, as the staff struggled to handle our pre-dinner drinks and understand requests (we asked for spittoons several times and kept receiving ice buckets full of cubes; we asked for another bottle of wine and received our bill; etc).

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1/5 (1949: The Hidden City): We dropped in for Guinness and were (mis?) treated to some music that would make my “worst eighties” list. This place has the kind of decor and vibe that would make it appropriate for corporate types cutting loose.

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TUN: Open Mic nights are a lot like golf – even if you have a horrible round, a birdie or two will inspire you to at least save one club from the lake and come back and play. Given that, there were a few triple bogeys last night that saw things proceed slower than usual, though two Tsingtao for RMB15 goes a long way in terms of compensation.

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Maggie’s: A return visit to make sure the opening wasn’t a fluke. Nope, aside from the airier layout, things were pretty much same old, same old, with a decent crowd for a Tuesday, though it seemed ladies outnumbered gents (by the way, were the wine markups always upwards of 400 to 500 percent?).

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Goose n’ Duck: Pretty much empty after midnight, which means we had the table top hockey and pitching cage all to ourselves! I like this place – the food is decent, there are plenty of seating options, a good smattering of TVs, etc – but I miss the convenience of the old spot near Chaoyang Park.

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The Den: About 25 to 30 people were settled in and throwing down drinks, which the reliable staff ensured were available in ample supplies along with decent pub grub (deep-fried combo: yum). I noticed people who had been at Maggie’s earlier in the night trickling in as we headed out…

It might be game finito for Italian joint Frantoi Celliti after only a few months on the scene. An email by the owner to customers cited problems ranging from personal threats to inconsistent power and water supplies, and said matters are being taken up in court. Added to this, the place faced the combined challenges of scale (a seating capacity of about 150), location (a hard-to-find warehouse area on Sanlitun South), and marketing (promo emails sent with the subject lines in Italian only).

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Klubb Rouge has figured out what the rest of us have known for six months: the drinks cost too much. Though I’m not sure the right move is to go from RMB70-80 signature cocktails to all-you-can-drink for RMB158 (9 PM-2 AM, Sunday to Thursday) or RMB198 (9 PM-3AM, Friday and Saturday).

By the way, does anyone find the woman featured in the Klubb Rouge poster sexy? Frankly, that undernourished opium addict / vampire look is like so over for me. Plus, clothing that provides the coverage of dental floss doesn’t do it when the temperature dips below zero. At least add a scarf. And a toque.

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Friday ladies night is drawing large crowds at TUN though the last one saw some non-lady like behavior as a cat fight broke out near the bar. With gratis booze for the fairer sex from PM to midnight, methinks the attitude has steadily and weekly gone from excitement to entitlement. Still, if I were under 30 and single, it’s hard to imagine a better Friday night stop these days…

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File this one under I Did Not Know That: 1/5 bar, part of the 1949: The Hidden City complex, is closed on Sundays, though the other venues, including Sugar, Noodle Bar, 1/5 Taverna, and Duck de Chine are open.

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Last but not least, St. Regis Hotel held its official reopening party last Friday night with a full-on dinner in the ballroom. The best course? The cocktail reception featuring some of the St. Regis’ Bloody Mary range. Each hotel has a signature drink: For Beijing, it is the “Great Wall”, a blend of Tsingtao, Bloody Mary mix, and lime, while for Shanghai, it is vodka, Bloody Mary mix, soy sauce and Szechuan ground pepper (with a foam of vodka, white rice liquor, sugar syrup, and pear and cucumber chunks). Frankly, this is one world tour I would like to take…

Rome: Vodka, Bloody Mary mix, hot pepper powder, basil leaves, oregano, and extra virgin olive oil…

Washington: Gin, Bloody Mary mix, horseradish, clam juice, lemon juice, and seasoning, with a shrimp garnish…

Singapore… Actually, I’ll stop now: It’s not healthy to have such thoughts on a Monday.

By the way, accredited journalist get a 50-percent discount on drinks at the St. Regis’ Press Club Bar.

Last Friday ranks among those days that start with a wine tasting at 11 AM, when our taste buds are supposedly at their best, and end the next morning at 3 AM, when my wallet is definitely at its worst. Thank Buddha the list of such days is short. The itinerary, for no particular reason, in reverse order…

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Q Bar I met my buddy O-Zone four years ago in First Cafe, where two of Q Bar’s three owners – George and Echo – then worked. Thus, it is often the finishing point for our nights out. This time around it meant my first drink there since the price increases just before the Olympics: RMB60 for a martini straddles, if not crosses, the value line. O-Zone ordered a Gin Tonic, I has a Planter’s Punch, and the third co-owner, Ralph, gave us a try of his new dish – sausages and fries. Nice for Oktoberfest… -

Ichikura With the bar about half full – that would be six of the dozen or so seats – we got comfortably numb. I asked the bartender for an Alfonso Special. Never heard of it. I wrote down the recipe. He scrutinized it, then headed to the far end of the bar and alternated between scratching his head in thought and mixing the drink. The result: pretty tasty. As usual, he turned on the “beam to heaven” – the coaster-size light that shines up from beneath the bar’s transparent top and on which he places the cocktail glass for the pour. -

Aperitivo We snagged the last table on the deck and watched the crowd pass – pedestrian traffic continues to be heavy at night since the police started to bar vehicles from this street. By the way, while Aperitivo is known for wine, my buddy The Fish swears by the Margarita. -

Tun O-Zone and I decided to meet here. Free drinks for ladies from 9 PM to midnight – I wonder how other bars feel about that deal!? – brings in a good crowd though the music seemed a bit heavy for this sort of event. Anyway, I’m sticking with Tun as my “sleeper” pick. -

Sequoia Café The return of these Friday night wine tastings drew many regulars and quite a few newcomers. The theme: the Margaret River area in southwestern Australia. I wasn’t too keen on any of the five selections, but perhaps my taste buds were exhausted by two earlier tastings. In any case, it is good to have Fridays with Frank back, since I know of no other wine events that create this sense of community. -

Frantoi Celliti Drei Kronen 1308 I met fellow beverage researchers AU and GA to drink wine at 1949: The Hidden City and we decided to chase it down with food. We walked to Frantoi Celliti, the massive new and sparsely patronized Italian joint near Tun, and found it darkened at 5:15. Someone spotted our faces pressed against the glass, popped the door, and said 5:30 is the official opening, with 6:30 or 7 PM better for dinner. Hmmm…

We decided to eat at Drei Kronen 1308 instead. The deal: AU and GA would go first and I would catch up after heading home to drop off my laptop and pick up three “free beer” coupons I received at a Klubb Rouge event (same owner). Everything went to plan: I arrived, they already had mugs of beer and plates of sausages, and I gave the coupons to the waitress.

The bill seemed a bit heavy when it arrived. We soon discovered why: it was carrying the weight of those three beers. The explanation: we did not present the coupons upon arrival.

Did anyone mention that when I handed over the coupons? No. Does any such rule appear on the coupons? No. Does it make sense to create coupons to encourage people to come and then create a bad impression by not honoring them? No. After our firm suggestion that they reconsider the policy, a scrum of wait staff and management ensued and we found our bill reduced.

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1/5 Taverna About 70 wineries from the Golden State were on hand as the California Wine Institute organized a mid-afternoon tasting at 1949: The Hidden City. This one saw a mixed crowd of distributors, journalists, restaurateurs, and consumers spend two hours trying to visit all of those tables. Talk about California dreaming (the details).

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Green T. House I headed to this arty and austere downtown restaurant around 10 AM for a Wine Australia event. Before we sampled 13 wines from Down Under, including top-end selections from Penfolds and Henschke, we had a lesson about… tea. The reason? To link China and Australia by arguing the much-loved beverages of the two nations share everything from physical properties to traditions for enjoyment. In terms of marketing, call it sophistication meets warmth and fuzziness, and deserving of its own post. Coming Monday…

After checking out the China Open on Thursday, p3wong and I headed to Sanlitun for some post-match libations. A quick summary:

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1/5 bar (1949: The Hidden City)

If spots like 1949 and Union Bar & Grill are determined to provide overly keen and aggressive service, then patrons should receive, free of charge, the same drugs taken by the seemingly hopped-up employees. Seriously, there is a fine line between being helpful and annoying, and a growing number of places in this town are leaping across it and into the latter territory.

Take 1/5: As we looked for a seat, the waitress practically ploughed into us while energetically making hand gestures at this or that spot to indicate the obvious – they were empty.* Several requests for her to relax brought temporary relief – until we sat down, at which point she returned and stood about a foot behind us as we perused the menu. Several additional requests for space and to “please give us a few minutes” finally encouraged her to stand about two meters away.

I don’t doubt the staff friendliness, but who is doing training here: Richard Simmons? Are employees timed on how fast they take orders, with severe penalties for those who can’t secure one in under 10 seconds?

This is not to say 1/5 lacks positives. The design, décor, and “check him/her out” vibe (at least on this night) make it a decent place to entertain business clients and/or for the expense account crowd to relax after eating at the associated Duck de Chine or 1/5 Taverna. Actually, the place reminds me of a smaller classier Browns.

The bar includes a small but sedate patio (though it faces that huge KTV across the street). If you like eighties music – The Bangles, Yes, Human League – this was your night. And we received plenty of free popcorn. p3wong also liked the coasters, which include space for name, phone number, and message, and presumably can be sent between tables.

The downsides include the limited menu. The beer choices are Sol, Chill, Carlsberg, and Guinness, while only five wines are listed (the one I requested was unavailable). I imagine persistence might get access to the superior wine menu at Duck de Chine.

As for the cocktails, they didn’t live up to their prices. My Martini (RMB49) tasted like vodka cut with chilled water, while P3wong said her Bloody Mary (RMB59) lacked celery salt and needed more Worchester sauce, Tabasco, vodka, and… tomato juice. The drink simply had too much ice and, ultimately, water.

* Something similar happened when I recently entered Union and the host, finding himself behind me and unable to point out a hundred places I might sit, nearly tripped me as he pushed by to get in front.

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Mesh (The Opposite House)

We started the night at Mesh, where Thursday features a buy one get one free deal on a limited range of cocktails and beers from 7 to 11 PM. Drinks start from RMB60 plus RMB15 percent service charge, which converts to RMB69 and up. The chic decor continues to impress; the dim lighting continues to mean flashlights are needed to see the menu.

I found the cocktails weaker than on previous visits. p3wong called her Cosmopolitan (RMB69) “average” and said she preferred the Mojito (RMB69). I found the Aperol & Mandarin Sour (RMB80.5) and Passion Fruit & Lychee Martini (RMB80.5) OK, though light.

While some confusion occurred as to whether single malts are covered by the special (they aren’t), the staff was friendly, especially the bartender who explained some of the more unusual cocktails on the menu.

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Tun (Sanlitun South)

We ended the night at Tun, as I wanted to check out the band and to see if the snappy Italian joint next door was ready to open. As mentioned earlier, I love the layout of this place, though the men’s bathroom is a bit dodgy and the food could use work. Anyway, it’s a nice spot to see a band and have a couple of Tiger beers (RMB15), especially when the guitarist’s hands are so quick and deft that they almost look like they are smoking as he plays Let Me Stand Next to Your Fire.

All drinks, half price, midnight to midnight – August 5 sees the final Cinco de Drinko at The Saddle Cantina. What better way to warm up for the Olympics than with half-price ice-cold Stella – literally, the upstairs draft pours at -2 Celsius – or a couple of Margaritas?

Meanwhile, Well Bar will open in 1949: The Hidden City on this night, so if you haven’t checked out this laid-back complex yet, this is a good chance to also take a look at 1/5 bar.

Oh, it doesn’t matter what they say in the papers
‘Cause it’s always been the same old scene
There’s a new band in town
But you can’t get the sound
From a story in a magazine…

Billy Joel, It’s Still Rock and Roll to Me

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“The Smugglers is packed.” Never did I think those words would appear on my blog, but such was the state of affairs in Sanlitun on Friday night. I kicked off the evening with a tasting at soon-to-open Japanese restaurant Makoto (thanks to Miao Wang for the invite) and a visit to 1/5 bar, the newest component of 1949: The Hidden City. But first, the lowdown on Sanlitun less than two weeks ahead of The Olympics.

Not only was The Smugglers full but the street out front – bordered by Kai, Butterfly, and Shooters – seethed with hundreds of punters. The street at nearby Tongli Studio, where outdoor seating has been removed, saw lighter traffic although Luga’s was packed as usual.

Meanwhile, China Doll had a busy lounge, a crowded bar and dance floor, and a lineup, even before the witching hour had struck. This place has been a quick hit. By the way: 1) Expect a pat down by China Doll security at both the upstairs and downstairs entrances; 2) the place has a “no shorts or flip flops” rule; and 3) the RMB60 Gin Tonic continues to be weak, though this may soon change.

Finally, most bars on the main Sanlitun North bar strip had outdoor seating and solid crowds. Again, not one “lady bar” solicitation as I walked that strip.

On the south side, Q Bar had the atmosphere of a sauna, but I guess patrons found it tolerable given how tightly they were jammed into the place. Meanwhile, the street fronting Nanjie held hundreds of nightlife lovers, with the second-floor wraparound balcony the busiest I have seen it since the opening party.

I ended up at Tun, which had the lightest turnout of the night. I’m liking this place: the cavernous space, the high ceilings, the hutong touches, the Great Wall of China DJ booth, and, last but not least, the theme – “One World, One Drink.” Tun has excellent potential as an events venue.

Even better, its Friday night ten-kuai drink special makes “I’ll buy the next round” hard to resist, so I parked with music scene acquaintances RT and DM. The latter expounded on the need for “a great dive bar” in Beijing, what he describes as a “lowdown, last call, no hope place.” With its rough and ready fixtures, signs proclaiming “ignorance is strength” and “protect your daughters,” and a diverse and sometimes dubious clientele, the former Sunset Bar & Grill once served that niche, says he. I am hoping he takes up my offer to expand, in writing, on the “great dive bar” theme.

Anyway, I started the night at Japanese restaurant Makoto, which will open in China Central Place on Tuesday (RSVP-only until August 15). Some items I sampled might be too subtle for my rough tastes – these include “cucumber mint ‘noodle’ salad’” and “tomato tartare with bean salad.” But others I did like, including: the tempura (the prawns remained juicy inside); the sea scallop on pork belly and potato puree, with cubes of spiced apple around the sides (an interesting mix of tastes and textures; and the fresh ginger. Makoto is large, with seating at both tables and at cooking stations, and a lounge that looks nearly finished.

As for 1/5, I now know what 1949: The Hidden City considers to be “old school” music – The Stones, The Beatles, and Billy Joel (hence the quote above). The building was formerly a factory for making the blades on meat-slicing machines. Now the first floor is dominated by an island bar – with a soft arm rest – about ten meters long. Expect dark wood, leather, and cream paint, and what feels a bit like a hotel bar but with the added luxury of views of a pleasant courtyard. The upper floor includes private areas and two dancing poles. RMB39 and up for beer, RMB49 and up for drinks; expect a friendly but aggressive staff.

Note: I’ll soon have the Saturday and Sunday night parts of the weekend wrap and will also begin running my Olympics bar picks this week.

This is the fourth in a series of posts on places that I have recently toured and that are projected to open over the next few months. Previously: The new Nali Studios: The Saddle Cantina, Project H2O; The new China Doll; The Legation Quarter

In a city where some high-end venues seem intent on blinging each other out, The Hidden City, a project by Elite Concepts, is refreshing for being reserved. Just south of Pacific Century building and east of Revelations (ex-Browns), this complex of about a dozen buildings will include bars, restaurants, a coffee house, an art gallery and a private club. Red bricks walls, oak plank floors, ceiling beams, ample paths, green areas, and plenty of trees suggest a relaxed getaway in the heart of the city – which I guess explains the “hidden” in its name.

Most of the buildings are new – the striking exception being a refurbished two-story factory / warehouse that will hold 1/5 lounge bar – though they evoke a slower-paced time in Beijing’s past. 1949′s Eva Lipman gave me a tour of the place last week. Here are the key venues:

- Duck de Chine, a Beijing duck restaurant split into two narrow rustic buildings of 200 square meters separated by a green space and a glass-walled area that displays the roasting ovens; one room will include a Bollinger Champagne bar.

- Noodle Bar, a cozy spot that seats about 12 at its counters.

- Well Bar, an outdoor four-meter-wide well in which a waist-deep floor has been installed: the plan is for the bartenders to work in the well (let’s hope that flooring is secure!), the patrons to sit around it, and the house brew – “1949″ – to flow.

- Sugar, a coffee and dessert house

- 1/5 restaurant, a large space with an open kitchen, “comfort food”, Sangria, and a slanted roof that peaks at about 10 meters and allows in natural light.

- 1/5 lounge with a four-sided bar on the first floor and VIP rooms upstairs. Lipman says the music will have an “old school” theme (think classic rock).

There will also be a private club.

What strikes me about 1949: The Hidden City is its cohesiveness and modesty. The earthy tones, the beams, the green space, and the understated décor and furnishings work well. The construction materials seem frugal – in the sense of being practical, rather than cheap – and contribute to the unassuming atmosphere. Let’s hope the final product carries this same air. The question with such multi-establishment projects is whether they can fashion success from the sum of their parts. For now, the answer is – and yes, this is a horribly cheesy way to end – hidden.

1949: The Hidden City is slated to open on March 31, save for Well Bar and 1/5 lounge, which will open shortly after.