Beijing Boyce

I always list my bar picks just before The Beijinger announces the results of its annual readers awards. Because I consider myself an expert? Nope. Because I can predict the future? Nope. Because I need to pay back all of the bar owners who gave me hongbao this past year and supported my seven-Ferrari, supermodel-dating, jet-setter lifestyle? Nice try, but nope. It’s because I’m about 400,000 words away from a full-blown case of carpal tunnel syndrome and a massive health insurance payout, and these lengthy posts get me that much closer.

Anyway, last Thursday my computer crashed harder than the Kro’s Nest partnership, so I decided to wait and am posting my picks today. Since readers could pick up to three bars per category, I did the same. Also, I’m not covering every category, I haven’t been to every bar in Beijing so I have probably missed some worthy choices, and this list is dependent on my memory so, again, I have probably missed some worthy choices.

Cocktails

Twilight gets my vote for superb cocktails, attention to detail, a twenty-kuai discount during happy hour, and an unpretentious vibe: I would be there thrice weekly if I lived in Jianwai Soho. Runners up: Mao Mao Chong for its creative approach and reasonable prices, and especially for its excellent winter menu of warm drinks, and Q Bar for consistent quality and starting two-for-one martini Wednesdays

Individual cocktail

If I had to choose three drinks on, let’s say, a Tuesday night, I’m starting at Q Bar with an Alfonso Special (gin, Grand Marnier, dry and sweet vermouth, and bitters), moving to Twilight for a Smoky Martini (Laphroaig single malt, Tanqueray gin, and absinthe, plus an olive stuffed with sauteed and then marinated sausage, anchovy, onion, and spice), and finishing at Tryst with an Old-Fashioned (the bourbon is eased into the drink in three stages). (Then having another Old-Fashioned.) Tough category, since I like drinks at Fubar, Mao Mao Chong, Ichikura, and Xiu (that huang jiu Long Island), among others, but those are my three.

Cheap drinks

Hard to beat those twenty-kuai rum shots at Salud for a mix of price, potency, and uniqueness. Runners-up: Tun, which has some kind of special every night, including one with two Stella drafts for RMB35, and 2F for its twenty-kuai Moscow Mules.

Whiskey

Nashville, with its blend of a daily two-for-one special and a shelf with about 100 whiskeys, is an excellent though highly underrated spot; Ichikura for continuing to deliver good choice and atmosphere; Glen for what I would argue is the best single malt selection in the city. (Special mention to The Bookworm for those who like to drink and read.)

Wine

This place does not have the biggest menu but does offer above-average and arguably the best value-for-money wines in Beijing along with a pleasant courtyard and good food: my pick is Palette Vino at Dongsisitiao. Runners up: Maison Boulud for the scope of its list, Mosto for that enomatic machine and the availability of half-pours of lesser-known varieties, and Cafe Europa for constantly rotating its by-the-glass and by-the-bottle menus.

Bartender

A tough category as the number of bartenders with profiles is increasing in Beijing — when I moved here, Bruce Li at Centro ranked among the few “name” mixologists. My picks are Daisuke Onishi at Twilight (I know he also tends bar at Apothecary but I rarely run into him there), Pat DeWillis at Tryst on Tuesdays, and Ah Jian at 2F for consistently improving at his craft and taking a shot at baijiu cocktails. Special mention: George Zhou, who was at Q Bar until recently and is about to open his own place.

Happy hour

The Den continues to deliver with its daily happy “hours” from 5 PM to 10 PM, which include half-price drinks and pizza and RMB30 Guinness pints, though it would be nice to see an end to the hard sell and no free water practices; Union Bar & Grille, which has a not-quite-a-pint RMB30 Guinness draft and comfy seating; and Fubar, where the happy hour is extended depending on the number of patrons and includes lethal RMB30 Long Islands. I also like the happy hours at Twilight and Nashville, as mentioned, and really need to try Blue Frog more since some of my acquaintances are big fans of its happy hour.

Events

Chronologically, Burger Burger Monday at Blue Frog, Tuesday night at Tryst, and two-for-one martini Wednesday at Q Bar.

Best service

Fubar, which has a personable and efficient team; Q Bar, which generally offers professional service; Tun, where I rarely have to wait more than two minutes for a drink; and The Den, where the staff sometimes can be curt but do a good job considering they have to deal with more than a few yahoos. I already have four so let me add a fifth: Maggie’s. Love it or hate it, this place maintains a high standard from the bar to the coat check to the hot dog stand.

Hotel bar

I’m not much of a hotel guy, but I’ll go with Centro in the Kerry Centre (for many people, it is a place where they can almost always run into someone they know), Scarlett in Hotel G (I like the layout and the wine list is pretty good), and Xiu in the Park Hyatt building (this place has had a significant impact on the bar scene).

Sports

The Den for being open round-the-clock, having a staff that knows how to work the TVs, and offering good pub grub; Paddy O’Shea’s for having a friendly vibe, Indian food from upstairs, and plenty of booze choices; The Irish Volunteer for going above and beyond to fill niches, such as for NCAA basketball and the NHL playoffs.

Hidden gems

Twilight, Mao Mao Chong, and, even thought it has been open for more than five years, Ichikura. (I would include Amilal but its fans want to *keep* it hidden.) I have only been once, but sake bar G-Zou is on the “needs further research” list.

Bar/club of the year

The five I consider as contenders, in chronological order (I’m thinking more about their impact on the scene over the past year rather than whether or not I like them):

• D Lounge: It opened with a stunning design and then upped the ante with an equally stunning extension, both the lounge and bar areas are fairly comfortable, it attracts a fair share of the “see and be seen” crowd for those into such scenes, the drinks and service have improved of late, and it tends to impress guests. The downsides include complaints about management and staff arrogance, the door policy, and–early on–drink quality.
• Fubar: Works due to a combo of gimmicks (sliding door, Buddha glasses), a good happy hour (mixed drinks from RMB25), a focus on big pours and quality spirits (how many people have tried Hendrick’s gin because of this place?), a personable staff, and strong media coverage. On the other hand, it has been open less than a year, only started to reach its potential when that third floor opened, can be a bit gloomy at times, and has tended to be “guy heavy.”
• Q Bar: Offers a superb deck, good service, tasty cocktails, and the fun of seeing first-timers surprised to find such a bar on top of the Eastern Inn. It has endured in providing quality year after year in what can be a fickle scene. The downsides: the crowds have thinned somewhat, the place doesn’t seem to be doing much to address nearby Sanlitun competition, and the departure of a co-owner this year was not pretty.
• Salud (NLGX): Continues to deliver with its homemade rums, diverse crowd (everyone from backpackers to long-term expatriates), earthy vibe, friendly staff, and potential for fun every night–all reasons I picked it as my favorite bar in last year’s post. On the other hand, this place gets its fair share of the “drunk and sloppy” crowd, the toilets can get a bit dodgy, and the mixed drinks get mixed reviews.
• Xiu Bar: Not my cup of Long Island Iced Tea, but it has has shaken up the scene, particularly with that “see and be seen” crowd, and had an impact on traditional strongholds such as Centro and Suzie Wong. The four-sided bar offers good people-watching opportunities, there are plenty of lounge areas as well as a gorgeous terrace, the drinks are reasonably good, and the ladies night has been a hit. The downsides have included annoyances at the door (security, line-ups), a crowd that often includes too many jackasses and “ladies of the night”, and spotty service.

Which one is the bar of the year? Hmm, can we have a five-way tie?

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See also:

• Beijinger bar awards: Mixed emotions, deja vu, and body Czechs (2010)
• Blogging live: The Beijinger Bars and Clubs awards (2009)
• My two kuai: Favorites for tonight’s The Beijinger Bars and Clubs Awards (2009)
• Pub picks: The Beijinger bars and clubs awards (2008)
• TBJ Awards: D-22, pole dancers, reality TV, and more (2007)
• It’s a bar, it’s a club, it’s a blub, part 1 (2007)
• It’s a bar, it’s a club, it’s a blub, part 2 (2007)
• My two kuai: Pre-TBJ awards bar picks (2006)

1 comment

OK, that post title might be a little misleading, but the thing is that Olaf Kristoffer Bauer aka “Kro” of Kro’s Nest fame says he wants to meet with the man with whom he started this chain of pizza joints, Yuan Jie, and with whom relations have been somewhat less than amicable of late. Bauer says he has tried to contact Yuan Jie, even to the point of calling his family and acquaintances, but has had no luck reaching him. “Basically, I want him to come out and talk,” says Bauer. So, if Yuan Jie or his acquaintances read this blog, Kro says give him a call.

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See also:

As the Kro flies? Partner troubles at Kro’s Nest Pizza

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