Apothecary after four months: Good idea, bad execution
I was wondering how to lead this post about Apothecary, a place with a DIY approach that I still appreciate but execution that is increasingly irksome.
I thought I might start with a comment made by a friend during a recent visit: “I really liked this place when it first opened, but now….” Or quote blog readers who have criticized everything from the service speed to the drink value to the “sit-down policy” to the management’s attitude. Or note that despite being open four months and generally making above-average drinks, the place makes mistakes on orders (three times during my last five visits) and uses subpar garnishes at times–both hard to stomach given the modest pours and high prices.
Or to compare it to Xiu and D Lounge, two places that still draw crowds but have alienated some people. Or to write about how a guy who is friends with one of the owners came over to talk to me and then gave me the “Why do you come here if you don’t like it?” spiel — actually, it had been weeks since my last visit and I dropped by in light of so many reader complaints. Or, given all this, to jokingly suggest some potential drinks for the menu — Shut Up, Just Sit; If You Don’t Like It, Get Out; Taking Ourselves Way Too Seriously, Our Poop Doesn’t Stink.
Then someone told me about this review on City Weekend. It rings true with me:
When this place first opened I loved it. However, the spiraling sense of self-importance has morphed it into something insufferable. Its like the bar equivalent of a pompous guy who has a couple of drinks and talks nonstop about his lifetime of accomplishments.
Conceptually, a bar that treats mixology with such reverence is great… but in practice its just obnoxious. The drinks are lovingly created… sure… too bad they take about 20 minutes apiece to be hand-crafted and arrive, even when the place is empty.
And what in God’s name is the “must be seated at all times” policy? I stood at the bar to talk to a friend (since you’re all lined up in a row and can’t practically speak to anyone beyond the person to your immediate left and right) and was chided by the manager, and told they have a policy that requires patrons to be seated at all times. Are you kidding? Is this place a bar or a kindergarten? Will I get my knuckles rapped if I talk with my mouth full? Maybe a bouncer will toss me if I smack my gum? Seriously… its just silly.
The author goes on to criticize the bartending practices as well: see here.
It saddens me to see people who were originally satisifed with their experiences at Apothecary late last year become not only disappointed but also offended over time, especially in cases where I introduced them to the place. I hope the situation changes: some of Apothecary’s drinks are unique to Beijing, the location in the heart of Sanlitun is good, and I enjoy talking to the two bartenders-owners who run cocktail-whiskey joints Er and Twilight. But I am nevertheless among those who have become increasingly disappointed and are taking their cocktail kuai elsewhere.
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I have to agree. I’ve been a couple of times – and sadly (and I mean that sincerely) I won’t go again. I come from a major metropolis with experience of good bars – and I can smell a bar that is getting too big for its boots.
Frankly, if your customers are complaining the service is too slow, it’s not advisable to turn around and say: “we put effort into our drinks.” It is time to speed up the service. I went there with one of the many investors and even he was twitching nervously. Despite our guest, we waited longer for drinks than you wait for food in some restaurants.
And frankly, the size of some cocktails was absurdly small. My whiskey sour was little more than piss on an iceberg. And it’s expensive. For Beijing, unjustifiably so—we all know labor, goods, space are cheaper here so let’s not insult customers with London prices. And it doesn’t serve wine. For a joint that offers food, that is a plain conceit.
I want to love this place so badly it hurts. On the rare occasion you get a killer cocktail served promptly, it is heaven in a highball. But that is rare. And like it I don’t. So I won’t be back.
Bring back the OT Jazz Lounge! Or at least something like it: black walls, jazz jam sessions with tasty cocktails.
Most of these comments are right on. It seems as though they’re intent on making and evening at Apothecary fun and relaxation free. Loosen up. Respect your customers. Even crack a smile once in a while. But stop treating me like a kid and acting like its a privilege for me to spend my 70 rmb on a drink in your booze temple. Its just not worth it, and it appears I’m beginning to develop a bit of a grudge.
In other news….recent re-visits to d-lounge have me enjoying that place a bit more than before. Perhaps its my lowered expectations of their service, or maybe they’ve worked some kinks out. Overall that space makes all the difference, and I’ve enjoyed my last few visits.
I agree with the post and the several blog posts floating around – so much potential but the arrogance has taken over.I like the idea of making your own ingredients, but you have to do it well – I was there last week for a very simple Moscow Mule – the Ginger Ale was almost undrinkable.
And being forced to sit down? are you serious??? One of the attractions of a bar is to be able to mill around and sit where ever the hell you want! Get real.
There are much better bars in the area and several about to open, so if the attitude continues, I expect a big “relocating elsewhere” sign to be hung in the very near future.
@ Jack,
I think “sadly” sums it up. Such great potential marred by what feels like a Customer Is Always (Or At Least Almost Always) Wrong vibe. Sad, indeed.
Cheers, Boyce
@ chinawhite,
Haven’t been to D Lounge for a while, but it’s another place that many people initialy liked — primarily due to the space — but ended up getting turned off due to management attitude.
Cheers, Boyce
@ J.L.,
I have heard similar about the Moscow Mules. I haven’t tried them but I’ve had a handful of Martinis and more often than not the dirty ones are too salty, the olives are too sour, or the order is wrong. Such things happen but they happen continually at Apothecary and when you are paying RMB60 for such a small pour it is annoying.
Cheers, Boyce
I’m trying to imagine the staff at FUBAR ordering me to sit down.
Nope. Can’t visualize it.
Ergo… a nice, fun, casual place to go and enjoy yourself.
Maybe Apothecary’s trying to reinvent itself as one of those theme restaurants like they have in the US (Dick’s Last Resort) where the staff are intentionally rude and just toss the napkins and plates at you or something…?
No?
So… that attitude’s NOT ironic?
I wonder if the ‘no standing’ policy is enforced when Luga is ordering a drink at Apothecary?
initial success has obviously gone to these guys heads and i do find the pretentious delivery a bit of a joke, given the surroundings.
The long relentless winter has also been on there side. Its hard to see this place keeping its level of success (and hence attitude) with Beijing’s fast approaching summer – roof terraces, open court yards, beers in the street, chuan’r fights and drunken flip-flop wearing funsters!
world cup, anyone?
come back fun-Beijing all is forgiven!
@ Charlie,
Agree. I can see the staff Fubar telling you to “lie down”, say, after then tenth Sambuca shot. But “sit down”? Doubtful.
Cheers, Boyce
I am glad to see that my infuriation with Apothecary is not completely without merit. So Apothecary for NYE advertised a 200 RMB party package that was to include drinks, canapes, and champagne. Sounds like a good deal, right? UNTIL that is, you get there and the wait staff can’t give you a clear answer as to what the package actually includes and you get DUPED into paying 200 RMB for one crappy punch, black-eyed pea soup (AFTER we had all spent 240 RMB/pp on dinner there), and a glass of champagne at midnight. Our confusion and beef was in their listing of “cocktail specials” in the deal, with NO indication or separate pricing for egg nog or 3 other drinks they had concocted for the occasion. Ok, so you want to charge 55-80 RMB on tOP of the 200 RMB for the package, but AT LEAST make it clear on all of the fliers you hand patrons or at least train your staff to tell you that up front. Don’t trick me and 17 of my friends into thinking we scored some type of awesome deal when really you’re trying to nickel and dime us.
On top of it – Leon, who is their manager, is the rudest, most self-righteous person I have ever met. Someone in our party is friends with him, so she calls him over to try to straighten out the confusion. I very politely explain our confusion and disgruntlement with being tricked into paying 200 RMB for one glass of champagne and a cup of punch, after having a tab well over 3000 RMB for dinner. He immediately starts yelling at me, insinuating I was somehow slow or retarded for being confused by the ambiguous language on the card and saying things like, “we’re not making any money off of this” (yeah right!!), and “i want to have a nice new year’s so i’m not arguing about this,” and telling me to leave if i didn’t want to abide by their rules.
So I refused to pay for our group’s punch and we left. I am NEVER going back their again and am encouraging all other Beijingers to do the same.
Wow, is this still the case? Has the situation improved?
The CW review is off its site. Any reason, do you know? (Other than the reason we cynics all want to believe… which, actually, might be the real reason.) The only review on there, in fact, is from CW’s editor.
Hi Tao,
I asked on Twitter and the nightlife editor replied:
“yeah, it happened earlier this year. A real tragedy; we have no idea how it happened. Comment again!”
I asked if it only happened with Apothecary or with the other reviews. The answer:
“only Apothecary. It really sucks. :/”
Cheers, Boyce