Beijing Boyce

I was wondering how to lead this post about Apothecary, a place with a DIY approach that I still appreciate but execution that is increasingly irksome.

I thought I might start with a comment made by a friend during a recent visit: “I really liked this place when it first opened, but now….” Or quote blog readers who have criticized everything from the service speed to the drink value to the “sit-down policy” to the management’s attitude. Or note that despite being open four months and generally making above-average drinks, the place makes mistakes on orders (three times during my last five visits) and uses subpar garnishes at times–both hard to stomach given the modest pours and high prices.

Or to compare it to Xiu and D Lounge, two places that still draw crowds but have alienated some people. Or to write about how a guy who is friends with one of the owners came over to talk to me and then gave me the “Why do you come here if you don’t like it?” spiel — actually, it had been weeks since my last visit and I dropped by in light of so many reader complaints. Or, given all this, to jokingly suggest some potential drinks for the menu — Shut Up, Just Sit; If You Don’t Like It, Get Out; Taking Ourselves Way Too Seriously, Our Poop Doesn’t Stink.

Then someone told me about this review on City Weekend. It rings true with me:

When this place first opened I loved it. However, the spiraling sense of self-importance has morphed it into something insufferable. Its like the bar equivalent of a pompous guy who has a couple of drinks and talks nonstop about his lifetime of accomplishments.

Conceptually, a bar that treats mixology with such reverence is great… but in practice its just obnoxious. The drinks are lovingly created… sure… too bad they take about 20 minutes apiece to be hand-crafted and arrive, even when the place is empty.

And what in God’s name is the “must be seated at all times” policy? I stood at the bar to talk to a friend (since you’re all lined up in a row and can’t practically speak to anyone beyond the person to your immediate left and right) and was chided by the manager, and told they have a policy that requires patrons to be seated at all times. Are you kidding? Is this place a bar or a kindergarten? Will I get my knuckles rapped if I talk with my mouth full? Maybe a bouncer will toss me if I smack my gum? Seriously… its just silly.

The author goes on to criticize the bartending practices as well: see here.

It saddens me to see people who were originally satisifed with their experiences at Apothecary late last year become not only disappointed but also offended over time, especially in cases where I introduced them to the place. I hope the situation changes: some of Apothecary’s drinks are unique to Beijing, the location in the heart of Sanlitun is good, and I enjoy talking to the two bartenders-owners who run cocktail-whiskey joints Er and Twilight. But I am nevertheless among those who have become increasingly disappointed and are taking their cocktail kuai elsewhere.