Beijing Boyce

A Somewhat Young China Hand on the Local Drinking Scene

Archive for March, 2010

Sips and bites: Maggie’s, Mosto, Naijo, Tryst, Tun, 12SQM, Fubar, and more

Notes from some stops about town this past week..

Tun: You might feel like humming Jingle Bells in the toilets now that–at least in the men’s loo–the walls are Christmas stocking red, the stalls pine tree green, and the urinals bone white. In other developments, the pool table is now near the door, the bar is freshly scrubbed (though there remains a slight musty odor, kind of like someone who skipped a shower and tossed on extra deodorant instead), and the kitchen is being redone (maybe we will see something along the lines of Kebab Nation – good filler you can eat standing up or sitting down). Kudos to bar man Robbie who explained some  finer points of football as I honed up for the World Cup.

Fubar: Haunch to paunch, hooting and hollering, sloppy and crazy busy on Fridays. That’s why I tend to go other nights, when I can simply relax and have a beverage. The staff ranks among my favorites because it constitutes such an eclectic cast of characters. By the way, Mojitos are one kuai from 7 PM to 9 PM tomorrow, but Utah rules are in play, which means you have to finish the drink in your hand before you can get another.

Stadium Dog: I don’t pay RMB20 for the sometimes Gobi Desert-dry hot dog. I don’t pay RMB20 for the sometimes too-hard bun. I pay RMB20 for the toppings: the chili, cheese, black olives, Jalapeño pepper rings, diced onions, hard-to-find—at least in Beijing—mustards, sauerkraut, julienned pickles, et al that I pack under, beside, and on top of the meat. Frankly, if we could combine the grilled hot dogs at No More Bunz with the toppings at Stadium, world peace might ensue. I also think nachos and cheese would be a big hit at this place.

Tryst: Made my usual Tuesday night stop to see Pat D during his weekly gig behind the bar. Given he still had maple syrup leftover from two weeks ago, I had a Knob Creek Old Fashioned, this time with a Meyer lemon twist. Pat adds the ice and alcohol in stages, so the glass ended up with a thin film of ice on the outside. I also tried a concoction that included rum and Pat’s fruits of the week–fresh pineapple and blueberries. While it looked unpleasant in the initial stages, after muddling, shaking, and pouring, this turned out to be one smooth looking and tasting – and deceptively strong – drink. Laoban G, making a rare Beijing visit, gave it two thumbs up.

12SQM: A call from The Lager Meister, a Twitter message that announced a special two-for-one deal, and the visit of Laoban G inspired this visit. As noted before, I prefer the newer and bigger 12SQM, which is almost four times the original size, and last night provided a perfect example of how homey this place can feel: A half-dozen people relaxing at the bar, a few chilling on the sofa, one surfing the web, house dog Mafan zipping about. Coopers Pale Ale at RMB30 is decent value by my books; a pair at that price is hard to beat.

Salud: The Lager Meister and I wobbled here and found it business as usual: Earthy digs, infused rums

Paddy O’Shea’s: The busiest spot visited on Tuesday. Why do so many people like Paddy O’Shea’s? The quality of the Guinness? The extensive sports schedule? Or the Mona Lisa-like smile of Karl “Who’s Your Paddy” Long? I’m guessing it is a combination of the three. A sizable crowd, a good vibe….

Mosto: The enomatic system here makes it possible to store open wine longer and thus feasible to offer less common varieties by the glass. Options include Oregon Pinot Noir as well as Pinotage, Malbec, and Vermintino. Half pours start at RMB28, with flights of four at RMB120 and flights of six at RMB150. Mondays feature a 30 percent discount on bottled wine. Someone recently asked me about Albarino: this place has two, Martin Codax 2008 and Pazo de Barrantes 2007. (By the way, I gave a Meyer lemon to the bartender, who seemed rather unimpressed with it, though head chef Daniel Urdaneta found the juice pleasant.)

Naijo: A Spanish acquaintance says this restaurant has the best paella in Beijing – high praise. Like Mosto, on the same floor, it also has Albarino. Anyway, I stopped for a glass of wine and left with a few suggestions in mind:

  • The dozen or so wine-by-the-glass options are spread throughout the menu—two on this page, one on that page, and so on. How about a page that lists them all?
  • Most people are unfamiliar with Spanish wines, so it would help to know how fruity, heavy, and so on is each. While some do have such tastings notes, but others have little or no info, or simply comments like “sunshine in a bottle.”
  • The bartender had to leave the bar and go to a fridge beside a work station near the door to get the wine. Why not have the wines, at least those offered by the glass, behind the bar?

Anyway, I hope to soon return to try the food–especially the paella.

Maggie’s: ‘Mongolian Embassy’ jokes aside, this place gets high marks for efficient service, smart design, excellent lighting, clean toilets… for simply being a good bar. Half the original space remains blocked off by curtains, though it has looked ready to open for months. The newer section—which includes a second bar and two rooms that each sport a pool table—has been absorbing the consistently large crowds. This edition of Maggie’s remains tame compared to the previous location on Workers Stadium East where the restaurants Jasmine and Buffalo now stand.

Chocolate
: The kitschy décor, go-go dancers, good value vodka, and floor show remain, though the crowd is smaller, at least based on my last three visits. This is not necessarily a bad thing, given there is still a good number of people and the odds are much better of getting breathing space at the bar. Like Maggie’s, this place is on my “place to take visitors” list, though a year ago my friends and I popped in on a weekly basis: how quickly changes the bar scene…

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NCAA basketball in Beijing: Catch the men’s college final next Tuesday

NCAA fans: The Irish Volunteer will show the men’s college basketball final next Tuesday, April 6, at 9 AM. The IV will open at 8:30 AM and if you come hungry, no worries, as the RMB35 breakfast (three eggs, bacon, home fries and toast) will be available along with coffee, juice, sodas, and stronger beverages (happy hour prices apply all day).

I’ll update this post if I hear of any other places showing the game…

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Aperitivo encore: Sanlitun wine bar and cafe reopens tonight

A new bar up front.

Aperitivo will reopen tonight, in an hour or two, after weeks of renovations. Owner Stefano says it will be a “very, very soft opening.”

The key changes are in the first room: the bar is now to the right and more storage space has been added for wine. Regulars will either be happy or dismayed that the music selection still includes mixes from Suzie Wong.

In the lounge areas, expect to find a similar layout and color scheme — that familiar orange seating — with the ceiling designed to add depth.

Overall, the place has been refined, looks spic and span, and is set to add to the five-plus years it has served as a dependable watering hole, with spotless toilets to boot (never underestimate the importance of a clean loo).

Look for a new menu in coming weeks…

[Update: The music changed to Barry White.] [Update II: OK, now we have some good early evening music.] [Update III: I can't believe how much Stefano and staff have done in the past hour to get ready for tonight: cleaning deck, unpacking supplies, etc. Good teamwork.]

A familiar feel in back.

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Luga’s Basement: Slated to open Saturday at 6 PM

Luga’s Villa is slated to open a sports bar this Saturday in the downstairs space formerly known as Boutique Wine Cellar. The new venue will include a long bar, five TV screens, and a pool table; the deck that leads to its entrance has been refurbished.

The opening will feature a screening of what I am told is a key football match between Manchester United and Chelsea at 7:45 PM (the commentary will be on), followed by Arsenal and Wolverhampton at 10 PM, and Poopingham and Chesterfield United at midnight <– OK, I made up those last two; I really have nothing against football, I’m just bitter we don’t see more North American sports in this city.

The deals include a Beijing draft and a hot dog for RMB30 and a two-for-one deal on Bombadier at RMB45.


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Sips and bites: Kiosk, Maggie’s, Fubar, Stumble Inn, Constellation, & more

If you are planning to go to Blue Frog for tonight’s two-for-one burger special, you might want to head there now. This place has been packed to the rafters in recent weeks–and that’s saying something since it has two floors. Also on the third floor of Sanlitun Village, it looks likely that Japanese restaurant Tairyo will finally open this week, and an employee shakeup at restaurant-lounge-club-etc Zazou has seen its manager leave.

I went to the newer Kiosk yesterday for a Big Bite burger — that’s a 250-gram square patty folded around cheese and served in a baguette (RMB33) — and fries (RMB12). What I intended to be a lunch stop turned into an afternoon of sipping beer (RMB15 for Tsingtao), trading the occasional vodka shot with the owner or adjoining tables, and watching impromptu salsa lessons. Good value at this spot.

I visited Maggie’s twice in two weeks to see if the entire venue is finally open… and it isn’t. Half of the huge original space remains behind curtains, despite looking ready to go, though the two additional rooms with pool tables and second bar have kept traffic flowing. And, yeah, you can still get a hot dog (RMB30) out front.

Fubar will feature RMB1 mojitos from 7 PM to 9 PM as its April Fool’s Day special. Sounds like a good time to combine a few minty drinks there with a visit to Kro’s Nest for its Thursday five-for-RMB80 craft beer special.

After one slip in Sanlitun, The Stumble Inn crew is close to securing a new space there. I just hope the team duplicates that beer selection from the first venue.

Finally, Shanghai-based cocktail-whiskey bar Constellation — it has two outlets there and is planning a third — is expected to open in Beijing as early as May.

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So, I bought a lemon tree…

… or did I? A week ago, after a trip to Fatburger, I stopped at nearby Laitai Flower Market and bought a lemon tree. At least, the vendor said the fifteen fruits on it were lemons. He delivered the tree to my apartment two hours later and I thought they looked a bit, um, rounder and oranger (word?) than I remembered. Anyway, I picked a few and made some rounds to get the reactions of other people.

- At Fubar, manager Xiao Ming mixed it with Feijoa vodka, soda, and mint for a tasty cocktail. He said it looked like a combination orange-lemon — co-owner Chad agreed — and asked if I had a park in my house.[Hmm, maybe I could stick a few hundred of these trees in my apartment and be a citrus supplier for local bars: must investigate.]

- Outside, at Stadium Dog, I ran into Doctor O, handed a fruit to him, and waited for the verdict: Smells like an orange.

- At a Chinese restaurant around the corner, I gave it to Mr Hao and Ms Hao. They weren’t sure. One said: I think it is an overripe lemon.

- At Union, chef Zach looked at one and said: Lemon. Then he cut it open, smelled it, and said: Orange. Then he tasted it and said, with a grimace: More like a lemon.

- At Saddle, manager Gordon held it and said: The texture reminds me of a mango [!?]. No, wait, a tangerine. Then he smelled it: It’s a tangerine. Then he tasted it: What the…?

- And the one time I forgot to bring the fruit along, I had to describe it to my friend Li, a viticulturalist, and he said it could be a citrus fruit native to China.

I haven’t seen this much confusion over identity since Lady Gaga. Anyway, I gave one to Inspector Flint of bowenwang.com, the spinoff of the How Stuff Works Web site from the United States. Given he enjoys the occasional after-work martini, I figured he could test out the rinds for garnishes. He went one step further and did some online searching (yes, I could have done this, too, but then I wouldn’t have had all the fun of zipping about town having people try the fruit). His verdict: it is a Meyer lemon. Here is part of relevant the Wikipedia entry (my highlights):

The Meyer lemon (Citrus × meyeri) is a citrus fruit, native to China, thought to be a cross between a true lemon and a mandarin orange or sweet orange. The Meyer lemon was introduced to the United States in 1908 as S.P.I. #23028, by the agricultural explorer Frank Nicholas Meyer, an employee of the United States Department of Agriculture who collected a sample of the plant on a trip to China. It is commonly grown in China potted as an ornamental plant. It became popular as a food item in the United States after being rediscovered by chefs, such as Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, during the California Cuisine revolution. Popularity further climbed when Martha Stewart started featuring them in her recipes.

The tree, pictured below, cost RMB400 delivered, including the pot. The vendor told me it would bear fruit twice yearly — we  shall see. These lemons are excellent squeezed into iced tea or water and work well with cocktails.

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It’s Friday night: Try to look alive out there…

Walking through Sanlitun Village fifteen minutes ago, I spotted some real live breathing slightly shivering members of the homo sapiens species that to my — at least as far as “art” goes — untrained eye were trying to stand as still as possible in an effort to look like bronzed statues. I’m sure there’s a reason for this promotion, that it’s all part of some bigger campaign, but when I think of gum I think of motion — chewing, snapping, cracking, popping, bubble blowing, bubble within a bubble blowing — unless I am finished and have stuck it to the bottom of a chair in Union Fubar Mosto… well, I would never do that, but you know what I mean…

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P-P-Poachers: No cover, DJ Phil, Sambuca shots tonight…

Poachers has a superb space and a convenient location but I have not been there much the past few years because it always seems to have a cover charge. But about a month ago, The Cheese Sandwich and I saw the doors wide open, swung in for a few Sambuca shots, and had a good time. Then, after his regular set at Tun last Saturday night, DJ Phil told me that Poacher’s — where he says he has been playing for nine years: that has to be some kind of record — has more and more nights sans cover charge. That includes tonight, when Phil will be playing some stuff he spins at Tun (Lady Gaga, Black Eye Peas, etc) and “a bit more hip hop” from 11 PM. As for drinks prices, Tsingtao is RMB10, standard drinks are RM15 and up, and, says Phil, a half-litre Long Island is RMB50. Then there are those Sambuca shots…

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Zach the Knife: Someone give this man an award!

Zach Lewison, pre-tear...

Call me psychic, but when I saw a single tear trickle down the left cheek of Zach “The Knife” Lewison of Union Bar & Grille at last week’s Beijinger magazine restaurant awards, I sensed that maybe, just maybe, something was wrong. Perhaps, I thought, he cried that single tear — not two, not three, but one — because Union didn’t win anything for which is was nominated despite Lewison giving us some of the city’s tastiest American eats over the past year. Then again, maybe it was because a piece of that free cheese went down the wrong pipe. Whatever the case, and despite the humble status of this blog, I want to give him recognition in eight categories:

  • Sandwiches: His Reuben ranks among the best sandwiches in Beijing (Lewsion should also get a nod from the world’s dairy boards for the amount of butter he uses).
  • Chicken wings: Best buffalo sauce (that butter again).
  • Brunch: Best eggs Benedict (since he uses Canadian bacon, can we rename them Ehggs Benedict?).
  • Flexibility: Outstanding effort, after patron complained coffee was too weak, to make two batches of stronger brew and conduct taste test. Responded to customer suggestion to create a “kung pao chicken wings thingy” by whipping up several batches. Tests new bar snacks on customers, then fine-tunes the recipes, before they go on the menu. Etc.
  • IT: Special award for emerging from the kitchen dozens of times to reset the wireless when it malfunctioned and, in one case, phoning HQ in Hong Kong several times when the satellite signal went down and management was not on hand that day–all of this is “above and beyond” effort that keeps customers happy.
  • Customer relations: Good interaction with patrons, aided by having the best repository of  stories about the Chicken Koop in Jacksonville, Florida.
  • Facial hair: Ranks in top five among Beijing chefs for Miami Vice-like stubble.
  • Overall: Special mention for good attitude, hard work, sense of humor, pouring coffee and taking orders when service staff are nowhere to be found, and dispensing an impressive amount of knowledge about U.S. microbreweries.

Handy with all kinds of drumsticks

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Got a crack habit? Then check out the Beijing booty popping party

How often has the topic arisen–perhaps whilst enjoying tea amongst friends–of the curious lack of organized booty popping displays in our fair city? As an acquaintance recently said, “When one is in the mood for a sustained exhibition of ‘fanny flexing’–as the crude might put it–one is almost always at a loss in Beijing.” Then again, it does seem selfish to desire such a competition less than two years after we had the Olympics. Whatever the case may be, Vics is spelling relief BOOtY POPPin’ on April 10 with a G-string competition and an encouraging “Shake It!! Drop!! Wobble!! Bring your A**” tag line. I’m not sure if there are both men’s and women’s categories, or perhaps even mixed doubles, but for those with a crack habit — pun intended — this looks like the place to be…

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Upstairs, downstairs: 2F bar team to take over Juliette’s space

The team behind second-floor cocktail joint 2F in Tongli Studio will take over the former Juliette’s space one level down, where the foie gras has hit the fan for two French restaurants over the past year or so. Since opening, 2F has built a solid following due at least in part to its unpretentious vibe, reasonably priced cocktails, and affable competent bartender / co-owner Ah Jian. The new place is slated to open next month.

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Bleach party: Tun could use a good Spring cleaning

High ceilings, a Great Wall of China DJ booth, an old hutong house frame just inside the door, a mix of lounge, high table, and bar seating… I have always liked the layout and design of Tun Bar. And when the place is comfortably full and DJ Phil is cranking out Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Black Eyed Peas, and the like, such as was the case last Saturday night,  it can be a lot of fun. (I’ve given up on Friday ladies night — simply too many people.)

But it also stinks — literally. An unappealing “bouquet” wafts from that long bar where most employees are stationed. On Saturday, several friends told me they thought it smelled like vomit. My guess:  It is the accumulated stench from months of spilled drinks, discarded lime peels, draft beer spray, and so on. In any case, it seems like time to get out the bleach. And perhaps a few changes in the toilet would help: features in the men’s include three gnarly mop ends stacked about a foot from where patrons wash their hands — is that an art installation?

Tun still offers a good space, quick drink delivery (though a few employees need an attitude check on occasion), and excellent specials (for example, two-for-one Stella draft at RMB35 on Tuesdays), but a solid spring cleaning and general sprucing up would make it a lot more appealing, especially to our noses.

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Turning Japanese: Spirit It class tomorrow features Sake, Sochu cocktails

Remember when mixologlist Bob Louison was an innocent French youth in a big Chinese city? That was like two years ago. Well, he’s come a long way, cheri, and tomorrow will host his thirtieth cocktail class in Beijing. This one has a Japanese theme–the cocktails have a Sochu or Sake base–and will be held at Zazou on the third floor of Sanlitun Village, 7 PM to 9 PM. The fee is RMB160 and includes the ingredients to make four cocktails. RSVP with Bob at bobspirit.it@gmail.com / 15010-352-077.

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Tuesday at Tryst: Maple syrup, caramelized berries, Scottish invasion

Superb night last Tuesday at Tryst with bartender Pat deciding to get out the maple syrup and make Knob Creek-based Old-Fashioneds and Manhattans. He also whipped up Breakfast Martinis and caramelized berries to go with some shots. Eight customers makes not only for a tight fit in this tiny place, but also for a good vibe, and all in all it was a fun night. But what’s with that Bourbon shelf? It used to be 100-percent Maker’s Mark, Woodford Reserve, and Knob Creek–with some Jack Daniels thrown in. Now, the Jagermeister, Jing Jiu, and–worst of all–Glenfiddich has crept in. The next thing you know, we’ll be seeing Sang Thip up there.

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Q Bar deal done: Echo Sun, Ralph Ziegenhorn buy George Zhou’s share

Update: The full press release re ownership changes at Q Bar — I have yet to talk to George Zhou about the situation (by the way, I popped in to Q last night and it looked like business as usual — I tried an Alfonso Special, a Dirty Martini, and a GE, all of them good):

Q Bar announces ownership restructure.

Beijing’s leading cocktail lounge, Q Bar announces today a restructuring of its ownership. Since opening at the top of the Eastern Inn in Sanlitun South Street in 2006, Q Bar has established a solid reputation as one of Beijing’s best nightspots with its imaginitive drinks menu, bar food and a spectacular rooftop terrace. Ralph Ziegenhorn and Echo Sun, two of the original partners at Q Bar have now taken over the share of George Zhou, the third original partner. The move is an amicable parting of the ways based on differing views of the future of the company and the partners’ management styles, and marks Ralph and Echo’s commitment to the ongoing development of the Q Bar brand and offering.

The two partners assure loyal patrons that it will be business as usual at Q Bar; we will continue to serve the same imaginative, high quality drinks and bar food to a soundtrack of hip lounge music including funk and electronica, and with the summer fast approaching, Q Bar’s extraordinary roof terrace will soon be coming into its own as the premier outdoor lounge space in Beijing. Details of our forthcoming events and ongoing developments will be available online at www.qbarbeijing.com

Original post

The months-long disharmony among the owners of Q Bar has been painful for their long-time friends and customers, but a deal has now been reached that will see partners Ralph Ziegenhorn and Echo Sun buy the share of partner George Zhou, says Ziegenhorn. [Clarification: In case my initial post was unclear, the deal is signed and the funds made available to Zhou, says Ziegenhorn.] He adds that Q Bar will issue a press release in a few hours.

My earliest experiences in the Beijing bar scene involved Sun and Zhou, when they were fledgling bartenders at cozy First Cafe–run by Keiko Shirata and Roger Houng in a building  that once stood behind The Rickshaw–just over five years ago. They had just started making the martinis that would propel them to fame. I remember spending many a night enjoying the cocktails as well as helping them remove their belongings from their second venture, Midnight, after friction with the landlord, getting together in my apartment with them for whiskey tasting or cocktail making sessions, my first and only Beijing bartending gig when Echo and I tended bar at a party,  checking out potential venues with them, spending at least part of nearly every New Year’s Eve at their bar, and… well, the list goes on. It will strange to no longer see them on the same team.

A photo essay from those early First Cafe days…

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Job opening in Beijing: Union Bar & Grille seeks bartenders, more

Union Bar & Grille in Sanlitun Village seeks entry-level employees to “learn the business from the ground up.” These include bartender openings: customer service experience a plus, English language skills required, and–this is my addition–Guinness-pouring skills essential. Union also seeks wait staff, receptionists, prep workers, line cooks, and dishwashers. For more information, visit Union and ask for Andy or Angel between 2 PM and 6 PM.

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Job opening in Beijing: Sanlitun Blue Frog seeks manager

The Sanlitun branch of Blue Frog is seeking a manager. Duties include purchasing, scheduling, cost and control, and floor management, among others. (I would add: Working your butt off on Monday nights during the burger, burger special — try the spicy chicken burger.) Management experience in a Western restaurant is a must and English and Mandarin skills are preferred. Those interested should send a resume to troy@bluefrog.com.cn.

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Sips and bites: Holey Tongli, bye-bye Bai, Rickshaw rented, Lee-ga’s

Anyone seen Tongli Studio lately? What was once a sheer brick wall now has more holes than a cat with nine asses. First, a strip was knocked out to add windows for Biteapitta. Then more holes were created on the third floor, both at front and at back, for some kind of upcoming Japanese restaurant thingamajingy. Then windows were added to White Rabbit, presumably so blurry-eyed dancers can check out the 5 AM Tongli Street action. And down at ground level, Aperitivo is going through a major redesign.

Jackson Bai–OUR Jackson Bai, affable bar man for more than nine years in Beijing–is leaving for a place where nobody knows your name, where everybody asks your occupation within 30 seconds of meeting, and where at least — to be confirmed — seven out of ten residents smell like soup. That’s right: Shanghai. Pop into Tun this Saturday at 10 PM for Bai’s bye bye party. And if you really care, rather than just pretend to care like some kind of Shanghai people that Jackson will soon be meeting over and over again, bring him a T-shirt!

The boys behind Stumble Inn planned to take over the space below Luga’s Villa and turn it into a new joint with a sports angle. But the boys behind Luga’s Villa made a deal with the landlord first, and guess what they are putting in that space? If you are a student of the bar scene, or even have two brain cells to rub together, then you guessed right: a new joint with a sports angle.  What are the odds? Anyway, this place failed most recently as a wine bar (Boutique) and a club (Mingle), but maybe it can make succeed with a pool table and a long bar– and a deck out front. Given that Lee Mitchell is now on the Luga’s team after a stint as manager of the Sanlitun branch of Blue Frog, I suggest calling it Leega’s.

The “for rent” sign at The Rickshaw came down a few days ago and word is the place has been snatched up. The dealers who hang out nearby must be eagerly awaiting developments as I don’t imagine the average patron from The Bookworm are the right type of afficionado. Anyway, more details on this space as they become available…

Bye bye Bai

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Apothecary after four months: Good idea, bad execution

I was wondering how to lead this post about Apothecary, a place with a DIY approach that I still appreciate but execution that is increasingly irksome.

I thought I might start with a comment made by a friend during a recent visit: “I really liked this place when it first opened, but now….” Or quote blog readers who have criticized everything from the service speed to the drink value to the “sit-down policy” to the management’s attitude. Or note that despite being open four months and generally making above-average drinks, the place makes mistakes on orders (three times during my last five visits) and uses subpar garnishes at times–both hard to stomach given the modest pours and high prices.

Or to compare it to Xiu and D Lounge, two places that still draw crowds but have alienated some people. Or to write about how a guy who is friends with one of the owners came over to talk to me and then gave me the “Why do you come here if you don’t like it?” spiel — actually, it had been weeks since my last visit and I dropped by in light of so many reader complaints. Or, given all this, to jokingly suggest some potential drinks for the menu — Shut Up, Just Sit; If You Don’t Like It, Get Out; Taking Ourselves Way Too Seriously, Our Poop Doesn’t Stink.

Then someone told me about this review on City Weekend. It rings true with me:

When this place first opened I loved it. However, the spiraling sense of self-importance has morphed it into something insufferable. Its like the bar equivalent of a pompous guy who has a couple of drinks and talks nonstop about his lifetime of accomplishments.

Conceptually, a bar that treats mixology with such reverence is great… but in practice its just obnoxious. The drinks are lovingly created… sure… too bad they take about 20 minutes apiece to be hand-crafted and arrive, even when the place is empty.

And what in God’s name is the “must be seated at all times” policy? I stood at the bar to talk to a friend (since you’re all lined up in a row and can’t practically speak to anyone beyond the person to your immediate left and right) and was chided by the manager, and told they have a policy that requires patrons to be seated at all times. Are you kidding? Is this place a bar or a kindergarten? Will I get my knuckles rapped if I talk with my mouth full? Maybe a bouncer will toss me if I smack my gum? Seriously… its just silly.

The author goes on to criticize the bartending practices as well: see here.

It saddens me to see people who were originally satisifed with their experiences at Apothecary late last year become not only disappointed but also offended over time, especially in cases where I introduced them to the place. I hope the situation changes: some of Apothecary’s drinks are unique to Beijing, the location in the heart of Sanlitun is good, and I enjoy talking to the two bartenders-owners who run cocktail-whiskey joints Er and Twilight. But I am nevertheless among those who have become increasingly disappointed and are taking their cocktail kuai elsewhere.

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Beijinger restaurant awards unofficial results: Maison Boulud, Da Dong on top

And the (unofficial) winners are...

Here are the unofficial results of the seventh annual The Beijinger restaurant awards, held this afternoon at Joy Luck. I typed them in when I wasn’t yapping with friends, sipping on beer, or giggling at quips by emcees Dominic Hill-Johnson of Plastered T-shirts and Ai Wan of Epic — I’ll list some of their best soon. My apologies for typos, mistakes, and missed categories — I didn’t catch two or three.

The winners are based on reader voting, which can be influenced by everything from the quality of a place to how long it has been in business to how much PR effort it exerts to whether its clientele tends to attract people who would actually take time to vote, so let’s see who the “expert panel” picked as winners. I’ll have more on the awards tonight or tomorrow: For now, here are the winners, subject to revision by the official list from The Beijinger that is due out tomorrow.

Best hot pot: Haidilao
Outstanding: Ding Ding Xiang, Little Sheep

Best Xinjiang: Red Rose
Outstanding: Crescent Moon, My Neighborhood Chuar Place

Best Yunnan: Middle Eight
Outstanding: Dali Courtyard, South Silk Road

Best Sichuan: Southern Beauty
Outstanding: Chuan Ban, Spice Spirit

Best Dim Sum: Jin Ding Xuan
Outstanding: Crysal Jade Palace, Lei Garden

Best Thai: Purple Haze
Outstanding: Phrik Thai, Serve the People

Best Vietnamese: Muse
Outstanding: Nam Nam, Va Va Voom

Best Indian/Pakistani (tie): Ganges, Taj Pavillion
Outstanding: Indian Kitchen, The Mughal’s Resaurant

Best Mexican: The Saddle Cantina
Outstanding: Luga’s Villa, Peter’s Tex Mex

Best Middle Eastern: 1001 Nights
Outstanding: Biteapitta, Rumi

Best Italian: Annie’s
Outstanding: Assagi, L’Isola

Best Japanese: Hatsune
Outstanding: Matsuko, Tairyo Teppanyaki

Best American: Element Fresh
Outstanding: Chef Too, Grandman’s Kitchen

Best Mediterranean: Sureno
Outstanding: Athena, The Olive

Best French: Maison Boulud
Outstanding: Brasserie Flo, Cafe de la Poste

Best pizza: The Tree
Outstanding: Kro’s Nest, Annie’s

Best Steak: Meat & Wine Company
Outstanding: Chef Too, Morel’s, Salt

Best: Olas Tapas Cafe
Outstanding: Carmen, Mare

Best Kung Pao Chicken: South Beauty
Outstanding: Bellagio, Xiao Wang Fu

Best burger: Let’s Burger
Outstanding: Blue Frog, Chef Too

Best Beijing duck: Da Dong
Outstanding: Duck de China, Quanjude

Best wine list: Maison Boulud
Outstanding: Enoteca, Mosto

Best romantic meal: Maison Boulud
Outstanding: Capital M, Mosto, The Courtyard

Best Decor: LAN
Outstanding: Hatsune (Sanlitun), Maison Boulud

Best for impressing visitors: Da Dong
Outstanding: Capital M, LAN

Best service: Maison Boulud
Outstanding: Haidilao, Salt

Best family friendly: Annie’s
Outstanding: Element Fresh, didn’t catch this one

Best chef: Ana Esteves of Salt
Outstanding: William Bolton of Chef Too, Daniel Urdaneta of Mosto

Best business lunch: Alameda
Outstanding: Mosto, Salt

Best brunch: Element Fresh
Outstanding: Chef Too, Vineyard Cafe

Best hotel brunch: Bubbalicious, Westin Beijing Chaoyang; Bubbly Sundays, Westin Beijing Financial Street
Outstanding: FIZZtastic, Hilton Beijing Wangfujing; Sunday Brunch, JW Marriott Hotel Beijing

Best Contemporary Chinese: Da Dong
Outstanding: Bei at Opposite House, Made in China at Grand Hyatt

Restaurant of the Year, Chinese: Da Dong
Outstanding: Din Tai Fung, Haidilao Hot Pot, Made in China @ Grand Hyatt

Restaurant of the Year, Non-Chinese: Maison Boulud
Outstanding: Mosto, SALT

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