Beijing Boyce

Excuse the baseball reference – I have been reading Ring Lardner lately – but I batted .333 the other night at the Legation Quarter (map) aka Ch’ienmen 23. Because I lost my phone, I had no way to contact the person who invited me to the official opening of Meat & Wine. And because I decided at the last minute to scope out the cocktail “shake off” at Fez, I arrived – with Mr Hao and Ms Hao – to find no tickets left. Crowds to the left of me, smokers – or at least char-broilers – to the right, I ended up with a base hit by swinging around and hustling to Maison Boulud.

I talk to many readers of this blog and there is near-universal acclaim for this place as a dining establishment, in terms of food, service, and ambiance. I also hear tales of the staff going the extra mile. Example: One acquaintance took his young daughter to Maison Boulud for her birthday dinner and she wanted a particular cake not found on the menu. One solution would be to substitute another dessert. Instead, the restaurant ad-libbed and made the sweets she desired. Not surprisingly, this thrilled the birthday girl and her parents are now fans and frequent patrons.

Maison Boulud is also a nice if sedate place to grab a drink. As mentioned elsewhere, I find the atmosphere a bit stuffy – a few ceilings fans for circulation and a slight brightening of the lights might help – but it is hard to top for service and attention to detail. I imagine my snootier friends would call it “civilized.”

I tried the Belgian Touch on Thursday night, with its raspberry beer providing a refreshing edge, though I still prefer the first two cocktails I tried at this place last year – Project 23, a spicy little number, and Bourbon Iced Tea, a refreshing one. But what impresses is the service. We received a welcome aperitif, chamomile-infused Grappa so smooth I would gladly order it on future visits, and a basket of “madelines”, cupcake-like morsels made with lemon, honey, and powdered sugar. As we finished our cocktails, we had a sample of vanilla- and fig-infused whiskey mixed with mashed persimmons and homemade orange-flavored bitters.

Mr Hao and Ms Hao recounted good experiences having dinner and brunch – and grabbing a bite at the ice cream stand stationed until recently out front – at Maison Boulud, thus adding to the list of the people who hold it in high esteem.

Note: Maison Boulud will be closed September 30 to October 3. Until the national holiday passes, it is best to call ahead.

Holy passion fruit, Batman!

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If the Bat Cave had a bar, D Lounge (map) would be it. Even though Bruce Wayne, aka Batman, uses ginger ale to fool everyone into thinking he drinks Champagne, I’m sure Robin likes a good dirty martini. Anyway, D Lounge is reached via a long dim passageway that smells of fresh wood, the place is cavernous, feels subterranean, and evokes a sense of neo-goth via the chandeliers high above. While my first experience at D Lounge left something to be desired, the second made up for it.

D Lounge blends natural elements such as wood and brick with a bar – at the far end – that is flat white and modern. The main space includes lounging areas created from a mishmash of lamps and seats. The bar seats about ten, with a comfort zone both behind the chairs and between the patrons and staff. The staff itself is friendly and efficient, not mention health-conscious given that one bartender told one patron, “You smoke too much.”

The drink list includes 23 whiskeys (though Johnnie Walker Black at RMB55 is a bit much), four shojus (RMB350 to RMB500 per bottle) and five sakes (RMB600 to RMB3000 per bottle), and is indicative of Japanese involvement in the place. Some sections have a same-old, same-old feel and it would be nice if a spot such as this went beyond the typical Champagnes (such as Moet Chandon and Veuve Cliquot) and Cognacs (such as Hennessey) with less common but competitively priced fare.

In any case, we stuck to cocktails on this night and came away pleased. (They cost RMB40 to RMB60, with the vast majority at RMB50.) Ms Hao gave a thumbs up to her shaken margarita and lychee martini, though I found the latter too fruity. Mr Hao called his vodka martini “good”, and while the feijoa vodka-based drink didn’t match his taste, he thought it properly made. My rum martini with burnt orange – a piece of peel is ignited for a second, doused, and then used to rub the rim before being slid into the glass – tasted fine, if a bit too bitter, while the mint julep had plenty of zing and a minty aftertaste. About the Manhattan we tried: it is strong. Overall, our favorite was the passion fruit sour.

With good but not obtrusive music, a spacious and airy layout, tasty drinks, a reasonably efficient staff, and comfortable seating, we all agreed this is a place to visit again.

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One ginger ale too many...

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The Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (map) in the 798 art district will hold a three-day event partly in collaboration with elBulli, based in Spain considered among the world’s top restaurants. Master classes will be held on October 28 and October 29, while Beijing-based chefs Brian McKenna of soon-to-open Room (and formerly of Blu Lobster) and Da Dong of the duck restaurant chain of the same name will team up for a “Spanish-inspired” dinner on October 30. Contact Brian McKenna or Valerie Taochy at adriabeijing (at) room-bmk.com for more information to reserve a spot.