Beijing Boyce

A Somewhat Young China Hand on the Local Drinking Scene

Out and about: Union Bar & Grille, Blue Frog, The Stumble Inn

I popped into Union Bar & Grille last Tuesday to meet Cale Jackson, who consults on this place as well as restaurants in Hong Kong and Taipei, who recently told me that Union finally has a gas hookup and thus the full menu – including one-pound rib-eye steaks – is available, and who first got me into martinis many moons ago when he owned a bar called Buca Buca (I’m not sure if I should thank or blame him). I played guinea pig and sampled some food as well as three wines brought in by an outfit called Golden Gate. But first, two other items:

1. I tend to think of Union as a restaurant, but this place has a splendid U-shaped bar with excellent post-work potential. There is plenty of space, a layout that lets you check out fellow patrons, and trays of candles anchored above that provide a soothing atmosphere no doubt made better by a daily two-for-one happy hour from 6 to 10 PM. Drinks include Cosmos, Mojitos, and Strawberry Daiquiris (RMB42-50), beers ranging from Heineken (RMB35) to Brooklyn Lager (RMB60), and three choices of wine (RMB48-60). I have yet to try the cocktails, but will do so soon.

2. This place also has a brunch menu, with more than a dozen items, from your standard two eggs, hash browns, toast, and meat combo at RMB45 to eggs benedict with hash browns and toast at RMB58. A cup of coffee is RMB20 and, says Jackson, is bottomless.

Back to the wine: There are ten by the glass and 30 by the bottle, organized from light to full bodied and ranging in price from RMB172 to RMB750 per bottle. I tried three of the lower-end wines and found them passable, with the Painter Bridge Chardonnay 2006 being best of the trio (RMB48 per glass).

I wrongheadedly ate half a pie from Pizza Buona shortly before going to Union – if you order, get the large pepperoni - and thus did minimal nibbling. I found the steak juicy and tender, though that one-pounder will set you back RMB308, with a side of tasty baby potatoes and other veggies, but the highlight were the creamy (with a hint of tang) scalloped potatoes (RMB20), a dish we need more of in this town. I could see myself getting a couple of orders of these and washing them down with a glass of vino.

By the way, I tried the burger on a previous visit, and it ranks among the best in town, though it is pricey at RMB86 (that included a dreaded 15 percent service fee).

In any case, I will have soon have more on the drinks at this place.

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A day earlier, I popped into Blue Frog for my third (fourth?) try at the RMB50 lunch special. I had wanted lasagna, but it wasn’t ready, so I settled on a sandwich and beef soup. As with other visits, I found the meal a bit light, with the value coming from the refill on the coffee. For burger fans, Blue Frog still has them two-for-one on Mondays and continues with its RMB25 cocktails on Tuesdays. New manager Lee is a friendly soul – he told me if I wanted lasagna, I could get into the kitchen and make it myself, and thus showed an openness to allowing patrons to see the inner workings of the Blue Frog. All kidding aside, he circulated regularly to make sure we were well cared for.

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Finally, I wrote yesterday about The Stumble Inn, which has taken over the Sangria space on Lucky Street. The opening party is now set for Friday, January 16, at 7 PM and will feature free food and drink from 8 PM to 10 PM. Owner Shane O’Neill describes itself as a “pub and game house” and states it will “stay open until the last person leaves.”

7 comments

7 Comments so far

  1. Jack Acnic January 10th, 2009 2:49 pm

    I recall being in (a practically empty) Union B & G last month, @ 2-3 weeks pre-Christmas:
    I’d agreed to meet someone for a Happy Hour refreshment. It was @ 1800.
    When asked about Happy Hour, I was told “it’s against company policy!”
    …..trying to act non-plussed I pulled out my laptop, hoping to justify my continued employment with late evening catch-up on emails, assuming there was a wireless internet. No Luck – again
    “it’s against company policy”.

    Finally I’m glad to see the wine-by-glass program has improved as my choice was very limited!
    perhaps summertime there may be a compelling reason to visit again but right now with a plethora of great dining and drinking choices in the Sanlitun area, and Beijing’s Gong Ti / CBD Hong Kong and Taipei transplants had better get in tune with current local market demands as opposed to the model that may have worked 10 years ago in a market starved for choice.

    Oh! and BTW – Happy New Year Jim, & welcome back!

  2. boyce January 10th, 2009 5:02 pm

    Hi Jack,

    I just went to Union Bar & Grille for brunch (very tasty Canadian bacon) and can confirm:

    - There is still no wireless.
    - If the management is to be believe, there is a happy hour.

    Cheers, and Happy New Year back at you!

    Boyce

  3. Jingbo January 12th, 2009 11:23 am

    Union Bar & Grill: good burger, great onion soup!

    comfortable space fit for a eating beef in burger or steak form (have only had the burger so far).

    Could be a solid choice for lunch, dinner, or drinks at the bar.. if only they could absorb some overflow from Element Fresh.

    They need to do something to create an atmosphere in there. Maybe some big screen sports over the bar?

  4. boyce January 12th, 2009 3:34 pm

    @ Jingbo,

    I just think they need to get more people in there and part of it is simply letting people know about the happy hour and the great bar they have there. I understand the place has hired a PR firm to help out – we shall see…

    Cheers, Boyce

  5. Fiona January 12th, 2009 4:44 pm

    I really enjoyed Union Bar and Grille when I was there; good service, excellent food, especially the calamari and pasta, and Brooklyn Lager!

    But I never would have known that it was there if I hadn’t been with someone in the know. They need to work on simply making their door look more like an entrance instead of a service door into the mall. It makes me wonder if they are missing out on a lot of foot traffic just because people can’t see that it is the entrance.

  6. Pat Brown January 28th, 2009 10:28 pm

    My husband and I just got back from our first visit at the Union Bar and Grill. My overall score is an 8. The food was very tasty..I had the grilled steak salad (although my first choice they were out of for the evening) and hubby had the primerib with scalloped potatoes. We, also, had cheesecake and I had decaf coffee. The downside: when we first arrived the smoke was really bad even though we were in nonsmoking, the wait staff was slow, but friendly and eager to be helpful, the manager walked by several times and never glanced our way, we were near the party room and it was very noisy ( a door instead of a curtain would help). We will be returning and I really want to try the breakfast. It is a classy place and one that should be successful for years ahead.

  7. Susan November 22nd, 2009 4:24 pm

    I ate at Union recently and thoroughly enjoyed it! I had the ribs–delicious. I’m happy to tell you that wireless access is up and running and the wait staff were attentive and efficient. The drinks, as always, are delicious and flowing at happy hour!

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