Beijing Boyce

A Somewhat Young China Hand on the Local Drinking Scene

Southern exposure: Shanghai transplants Blue Frog, Element Fresh, Enoteca, and (?) Klubb Rouge

In response to this post about Element Fresh on Monday, regular commenter The Village Grouch asked, “How about doing a wrap-up of recent Shanghai entrants to the Beijing market and how they’re faring?”

Done and done: In alphabetical order, here are 3.5 places that hail from our sibling city to the south and opened in Beijing over the past six months. And yes, I realize some might be getting their houses in order*, so consider this post as based on first impressions (or in these cases, second, third, or even tenth impressions).

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Blue Frog (Sanlitun Village)

If they knocked one-third off the prices, I might become a regular. But given RMB75 for not exactly the biggest hamburger, RMB35 for a small Carlsberg draft, and a staff that is a bit too keen, this will be an occasional retreat, especially in the winter when getting to the rooftop at The Village will be no treat. Good for casual business meetings or for watching televised sports in more upscale surroundings.

Why I would go: To watch a special sports event or because I am looking for a kid-friendly spot, I have an expense account, or they knocked one-third off the prices (speaking of which, cocktails are RMB25 on Tuesday nights).

Why I wouldn’t: The Den, The Rickshaw and Paddy O’Shea’s are nearby and offer good screens and, especially in the case of the first two, lower prices.

Grade: B

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Element Fresh (Sanlitun Village)

As noted earlier, I’ve been there five times, been highly annoyed four times, and left without ordering the last time. Nice layout, decent coffee, and friendly staff, but something went awry with the training because the service is poor, while the food is getting mixed reviews.

Why I would go: To chill on the deck, have a coffee, and surf the Internet.

Why I wouldn’t: Given the service, nearby places such as Le Petit Gourmand and Panino Teco offer better value.

Grade: C

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Enoteca (The Place)

I’ve walked by it dozens of times – at lunch, in the afternoon, and at night – and seen it not even half full. The view of the big screen at The Place is excellent. The wine choice is based on what is imported by the owners, which limits consumer choice, though some bottles do go for less than RMB100. Several readers have complained of “attitude” here. Perhaps the “official” opening tonight at 6 PM will mark a new phase.

Why I would go: To drink wine while watching a screen the size of a handful of football fields.

Why I wouldn’t: The nightmare of getting a taxi at The Place at night and the wealth of other wine options in this city.

Grade: C

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Klubb Rouge

While not officially linked to Bar Rouge in Shanghai, a handful of top employees from that hot spot came north to open this pricey China View venue (they have since left). The staff ranks among the friendliest in town, the place is huge, and the rooftop deck offers excellent views. Unfortunately, this place has struggled to establish an identity and draw crowds, though new management is in place so perhaps some changes are on the way.

Why I would go: To hang out on the rooftop deck or to park at the bar and daydream while looking at those weird red glass blobs hanging from the ceiling.

Why I wouldn’t: The place often has a very light crowd, the drinks are expensive, and I always end up at The Den afterward eating my weight in deep-fried goods.

Grade: C

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* Though still charging full prices.

14 comments

14 Comments so far

  1. m-dawg October 15th, 2008 6:12 pm

    BB tellin’ it like it is! Yowza!

  2. Jingbo October 15th, 2008 6:55 pm

    You can forget about ever finding a taxi at The Place between the hours of 5:30pm and 7:30pm, ever.

  3. Kevin October 15th, 2008 7:01 pm

    Still on the topic of Element Fresh. First of all, was there for diner last night and again the place was not ready for full seatings. Last night, it has a much lighter crowd, and the food, service, and timing were excellent. Also had a chat with a member of the management team, and a new arrangement will be done for this weekend and new facility will be installed in order to fast up the service for the coming weekends.

    So, Last Sunday was bad, but at least the management reacts quick enough, I will definitely give it a try some weekend soon, and weekdays are always pleasant.

  4. boyce October 15th, 2008 7:17 pm

    @ m-dawg,

    Well, I did visit all of these places a minimum of three times. I can sympathize with the owners re the difficulty of opening a new place in a new city, but they should in turn sympathize with consumers who are paying full prices for less than full value.

    Cheers, Boyce

  5. boyce October 15th, 2008 7:24 pm

    @ Jingbo,

    You are preaching to the converted, my friend (see here). It’s bad enough waiting in the spring, summer, and fall – I imagine most people’s tolerance will be put to the test waiting there during the winter.

    Cheers, Boyce

  6. boyce October 15th, 2008 7:25 pm

    @ Kevin,

    I also plan to give it a try in a month or so, though I didn’t find the management responsive. As far as I can see, a good chunk of their lunch and afternoon crowd is using laptops and I’ve asked three times, over a month, for an adapter. Responsive management would have spent what, 10 kuai, to buy a few of them and then test them out.

    Cheers, Boyce

  7. Courtney October 15th, 2008 7:31 pm

    Blue Frog has a pretty good brunch option on the weekends, various options for around 65 RMB (which is somewhat of a bargain for a good brunch around here now that Vineyard has jacked prices and reduced portion sizes). Brunch includes BOTTOMLESS COFFEE, which is huge for AM coffee drinkers – places like Vineyard, again, German Bakery, Alpha and The Olive charge high prices for refills that end up cancelling out the “brunch bargain.”

    Unfortunately Blue Frog has also just taken several food items off the menu, including the cajun chicken burger that probably ranked as the best of its kind in this city.

    On the brunch note, Element Fresh also offers a very affordable and HUGE American breakfast (weekends only I think?) that includes bottomless coffee. That’s the right spirit.

  8. boyce October 15th, 2008 8:44 pm

    Hi Courtney,

    Yep, that breakfast special at Element Fresh with the bottomless coffee is EXACTLY what I was going to order on Monday until the typical screw ups with the adapter and so on happened. I’ll check the place out again in one month or so when things have settled down a bit.

    Will check out the Blue Frog bunch, too — thanks for the tip!

    Cheers, Boyce

  9. Daniel LaRusso October 16th, 2008 9:37 am

    How many “official” and “unofficial” openings does Enoteca need before it’s actually open?

    That place has been open for months – but because business is awful they keep saying that they haven’t officially opened yet.

    Those guys are arrogant!

    I have yet to see anyone drinking wine there!

    Pekotan does better business at their wine bar! NO ATTITUDE from Pekotan.

  10. Daniel LaRusso October 16th, 2008 10:02 am

    Blue Frog has a 2 for 1 burger deal on Tuesdays, I think?

  11. judge panda October 16th, 2008 10:46 am

    I agree with almost all of your grades. Blue Frog is expensive, but the happy hour deals make it a decent place for a pint in an upscale setting as well as their other food deals (especially the half priced hamburgers on Monday(?)).

    I’m sorry, I love Enoteca and it shocks me that this place isn’t more popular. Is there really a wealth of other wine options in the city? Foodwise, Enoteca is way below par, small portions and high prices that simply don’t match their budget wines, though the sandwiches are decent. The purpose of Enoteca is to push their own wines and almost all the bottles are under RMB200. Granted, none of them are unbelievably spectacular, but they’re great for an affordable drink with friends in a comfortable, trendy environment. It is disappointing they don’t have any happy hour specials as it would attract a lot of people from the nearby offices, but as a classier late night spot, I absolutely love it, people or no people.

  12. ginger October 16th, 2008 11:49 am

    hey all,

    we used to go to fresh for lunch to use the laptop and pretend we were working, but soon got tired of the poor service. found Blue frog also has a good wireless network and the lunch prices include free coffee or soft drinks. servers are a bit keen, but that’s not always a bad thing. plus the happy hour is a good deal for after work drinks

    Gin

  13. boyce October 16th, 2008 2:09 pm

    @ Daniel,

    Who holds the record for longest time between physically opening and “officially” opening? I think Revelations is in the running – correct me if I’m wrong, but wasn’t it open longer from its “soft” opening to its “hard launch” than from the “hard launch” to its closure?

    Cheers, Boyce

  14. boyce October 16th, 2008 3:01 pm

    @ Panda,

    Re Blue Frog, I think that’s the key: it’s where you’d go if you were looking for something more upscale.

    Re Enoteca, you can only get away with being sub-par in so many areas before people don’t show up. As you note, this place doesn’t score well in terms of food, quality wine, or happy hours. I would add I encouraged numerous people to check it out and several complained about the “attitude” (not sure if they meant the manager or an owner) and I also had a very negative experience in that regard.

    Hopefully, things improve after this “official” opening.

    Wealth of wine options: Compared to when I got here four years ago, yeah. La Baie des Anges, Palette Vino, Cafe Europa, and about ten wine events this week alone (see full list at grapewallofchina.com in the right column).

    Cheers, Boyce

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