Beijing Boyce

A Somewhat Young China Hand on the Local Drinking Scene

Archive for September, 2008

The Sanlitun burger battle: The Rickshaw fights back

The Rickshaw has joined the Sanlitun burger battle in what is a shining example of how quickly the scene has changed this year. In the past three months, we have witnessed new places such as Blue Frog (RMB75), Union Bar & Grill (RMB86), and Let’s Burger (RMB68) push up burger and fries prices, other newcomers such as Luga’s Villa (RMB35) take the budget route, and longer-term spots such as The Den and The Rickshaw dig in as things suddenly became very competitive.

The Rickshaw, which annoyed some regulars during the Olympics with a 15-percent surcharge that has since been rescinded, is upping its game. It has introduced three burgers and a sandwich, all priced at RMB55 and including thick-cut fries. Nick Ma gave me a taste test of the quartet on Sunday.

The two beef burgers include The Americano, which Ma says is made with local organic meat and served on a poppy seed bun, and the Oz, a “classic Australian burger.” The latter includes a flame-broiled bun, cheddar cheese, and sliced canned beetroot topped with a hamburger patty topped with a pineapple ring cooked together with egg topped with bacon, lettuce and tomato. As the toppings indicate, the portion is substantial.

The Steak Rambo Sambo is a steak sandwich served with rocket lettuce on sour dough bread, while The China Special is chicken breast marinated in spices, and topped with sautéed onions, green peppers, and gong bao chicken sauce. Ma says crushed peanuts are embedded in the chicken before flame-broiling.

So, how do they taste? Here are my rankings:

  1. Oz burger: Besides including the “bacon factor”, the pineapple, egg, tomato et al make for an interesting blend of flavors and textures, though I found the bun too sweet (I suggest keeping the poppy seeds and reducing the sugar).
  2. China Special: The chicken is tender and juicy, and the spices leave a nice tingly aftertaste.
  3. Steak sandwich: Sour dough bread, mmm, though a bit higher meat-to-bun ration would be nice.
  4. Americano burger: For a stripped-down burger such as this, the bun is simply too sweet.

By the way, The Rickshaw has added new wing flavors, though the medium Buffalo style and others will remain. They include apple vinegar, cream cheese and tomato, maple syrup and chili, and Brandy Dijon.

Finally, here are a few pictures courtesy of my K-Touch, which is most excellent as a phone and most frustrating as a camera. Just imagine these burgers look about twice as good as the photos.

The Rickshaw Americano Burger

The Americano Burger

The Oz Burger

The Rickshaw Oz Burger

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Drop the needle: Acupuncture marks first anniversary tonight

Here’s a shout out for the first anniversary party of Acupuncture Records tonight at Star Live, even though promoter / Acupuncturess Miao Wong refused to allow my friend DJ Diaper to perform.*

Tickets are RMB70 ahead of time and RMB100 at the door (see details here). Given that 230 people have confirmed attendance on Facebook alone, this looks to be a major bash. Expect about a DJ per hour, from 9 PM to 5 PM, with the following lineup:

09 PM - DJ Xiao Feng
10 PM - DJ Pancake Lee
11 PM - DJ Elvis T. and Terry Tu
12 AM - DJ Huang Weiwei
01 AM - DJ Weng Weng
03 AM - DJ XLF
04 AM - DJ Gao Hu
05 AM - DJ Diaper

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* He rose to fame during the “Damp and Nasty” tour with his 24-hour sets sans toilet breaks. True story. Or it might have been a weird dream after one too many Absinthe martinis. It’s your call, but even without DJ Diaper, tonight’s party should be a good one.

(Image: Acupuncture Records)

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Belgian brew: Fredrik Janson on Stella, Chimay, and more

Morel’s, The Tree, Beer Mania, Paddy O’Shea’s, The Den, The Rickshaw, Saddle, Tun - there is no shortage of Belgian beer in this burg, especially when you count places that pour Stella and Hoegaarden. I drafted a few questions for the man who helps distribute this beer - Fredrik Janson, brand manager for Vandergeeten Beijing.

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I can find a bigger selection of Belgian beers in Beijing than beers from any other country. Why is that?

Belgium is a country with a strong beer culture. Not many countries in the world can offer such a variety of beer. At the moment, over 450 different beers are being brewed in Belgium, and I think that is why people love them - there is a brand for everybody. In Beijing we are offering around 30 different kinds of Belgian beers which can be tried at various venues across town. Our most popular Belgian beers are Stella Artois, Hoegaarden, Leffe, Chimay, and Lindemans.

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That ice-covered beer tap at The Saddle Cantina makes a big difference with the draft. What’s the history behind that tap and how many are there in Beijing?

At the moment there is only one ice-tap in Beijing serving Stella Artois and Hoegaarden. We are working on setting up some more installations which you will be able to find in bars around town soon.

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Stella seems to be increasingly popular in Beijing. How have sales developed?

You are correct, the number of bars and restaurants serving Stella Artois have increased during this year. I think that one of the reasons why Stella Artois is doing well is that the customers always know what to expect as we import all Stella Artois sold here from the brewery in Leuven, Belgium.

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Your company has sponsored a lot of events over the past year. What have been some of the highlights?

We have had great cooperation with The Beijinger and their Restaurant Awards and Bars & Clubs Awards parties. We also had the opportunity to sponsor some charity events after the Sichuan earthquake. You and all other beer drinkers will see more and more of Stella Artois in Beijing.

Stella Artois is doing a lot of work on quality assurance, from brewing to pouring. For example, this year China will for the first time enter the World Draught Master, a competition held in the hometown of Stella Artois - Leuven, Belgium. At the pre-competition, held in Shanghai on September 24, the best bartenders from Beijing and Shanghai competed to represent China. In Belgium, competitors from all over the world compete by pouring and serving Stella Artois and Hoegaarden from the tap and Leffe from the bottle.

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When you want to relax, what beers do you drink, and when you want to have wine or cocktails instead of beer, where do you go?

I have had the pleasure to try quite a few Belgian beers and I prefer to drink a beer with more flavor when I relax after work, for example, a Leffe Brown. Apart from beers, I also enjoy red wine. Since I spend much of my time in bars and restaurants working, I prefer enjoying to be at home with my wife. If I am up for a well-made cocktail, I like to go to Q Bar.

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1/5, Mesh, Tun: Over-service, two-for-one, Hendrix

After checking out the China Open on Thursday, p3wong and I headed to Sanlitun for some post-match libations. A quick summary:

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1/5 bar (1949: The Hidden City)

If spots like 1949 and Union Bar & Grill are determined to provide overly keen and aggressive service, then patrons should receive, free of charge, the same drugs taken by the seemingly hopped-up employees. Seriously, there is a fine line between being helpful and annoying, and a growing number of places in this town are leaping across it and into the latter territory.

Take 1/5: As we looked for a seat, the waitress practically ploughed into us while energetically making hand gestures at this or that spot to indicate the obvious - they were empty.* Several requests for her to relax brought temporary relief - until we sat down, at which point she returned and stood about a foot behind us as we perused the menu. Several additional requests for space and to “please give us a few minutes” finally encouraged her to stand about two meters away.

I don’t doubt the staff friendliness, but who is doing training here: Richard Simmons? Are employees timed on how fast they take orders, with severe penalties for those who can’t secure one in under 10 seconds?

This is not to say 1/5 lacks positives. The design, décor, and “check him/her out” vibe (at least on this night) make it a decent place to entertain business clients and/or for the expense account crowd to relax after eating at the associated Duck de Chine or 1/5 Taverna. Actually, the place reminds me of a smaller classier Browns.

The bar includes a small but sedate patio (though it faces that huge KTV across the street). If you like eighties music - The Bangles, Yes, Human League - this was your night. And we received plenty of free popcorn. p3wong also liked the coasters, which include space for name, phone number, and message, and presumably can be sent between tables.

The downsides include the limited menu. The beer choices are Sol, Chill, Carlsberg, and Guinness, while only five wines are listed (the one I requested was unavailable). I imagine persistence might get access to the superior wine menu at Duck de Chine.

As for the cocktails, they didn’t live up to their prices. My Martini (RMB49) tasted like vodka cut with chilled water, while P3wong said her Bloody Mary (RMB59) lacked celery salt and needed more Worchester sauce, Tabasco, vodka, and… tomato juice. The drink simply had too much ice and, ultimately, water.

* Something similar happened when I recently entered Union and the host, finding himself behind me and unable to point out a hundred places I might sit, nearly tripped me as he pushed by to get in front.

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Mesh (The Opposite House)

We started the night at Mesh, where Thursday features a buy one get one free deal on a limited range of cocktails and beers from 7 to 11 PM. Drinks start from RMB60 plus RMB15 percent service charge, which converts to RMB69 and up. The chic decor continues to impress; the dim lighting continues to mean flashlights are needed to see the menu.

I found the cocktails weaker than on previous visits. p3wong called her Cosmopolitan (RMB69) “average” and said she preferred the Mojito (RMB69). I found the Aperol & Mandarin Sour (RMB80.5) and Passion Fruit & Lychee Martini (RMB80.5) OK, though light.

While some confusion occurred as to whether single malts are covered by the special (they aren’t), the staff was friendly, especially the bartender who explained some of the more unusual cocktails on the menu.

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Tun (Sanlitun South)

We ended the night at Tun, as I wanted to check out the band and to see if the snappy Italian joint next door was ready to open. As mentioned earlier, I love the layout of this place, though the men’s bathroom is a bit dodgy and the food could use work. Anyway, it’s a nice spot to see a band and have a couple of Tiger beers (RMB15), especially when the guitarist’s hands are so quick and deft that they almost look like they are smoking as he plays Let Me Stand Next to Your Fire.

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Top five watering holes: Badr Benjelloun

Part six of a series on where Beijing residents enjoy a beverage (or two). This round is with entrepreneur, IT specialist, and former full-time bartender Badr Benjelloun.

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“Beijing has changed a lot over the past few months and the Olympics have left a scar on the face of the city’s drinking establishments. However, some bars / restaurants have managed to consistently get my patronage.

1. Salud: I’ve been going there over the past few months quite consistently. I love the atmosphere, the homemade rum, and the mix of locals and expats. It’s a bit of a pain to get there from my area but completely worth it. Add the great environment in Nanluoguxiang, with the hutongs and the locals, and you get a great experience!

2. The Rickshaw: Yes, they have a few service problems but overall that’s been the place that got most of my drinking moolah the past few years. I know almost everyone in there and it makes it comfortable. It’s my local basically! The grub is nice and they still make great quesadillas and serve one hell of a stiff drink. The owner, Kris, has been around for a while in the Beijing scene and deserves a lot of credit. The current manager, Andy, bends backwards to make sure everyone is happy.

3. Peter’s Tex Mex: A bit weird to include this one in my list of watering holes, but when I want good value, this is where I go. Best Tex-Mex in Beijing bar none and they have a great selection of wines at prices slightly above supermarket rates. The staff is friendly, the place is clean, and it’s a nice quiet hideaway.

4. Wain Wain: One of the city’s best-kept secrets. Hard to beat for a little mid-week beverage overlooking the city lights in a cosy environment. They have practically doubled their prices for the Olympics but still run some pretty good specials.

5. Kokomo and Q Bar: These two are tied because they are the only two places to make a decent Mai Tai which is one of my two favorite drinks. Kokomo even offers two varieties, an authentic one and a Hawaii Mai Tai. Q makes a hybrid Mai Tai that just rocks and had they managed to keep their patio opened longer, they would be in sole possession.

Posthumous mention: Maggie’s. Spare me the jokes here! Despite the shady nature of the establishment, they offered a great mix of atmosphere and DJing night in and night out! The cocktails were solid and affordable when compared to some of these new places opening left and right.

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Previously:
Elisabeth Tchoudjinoff & Katrina Arndt, designers
Paul Adkins, entrepreneur
Chandler Jurinka, Local Noodles
Kevin Shen
, T3 Terminal
Steven Schwankert, SinoScuba

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Element Fresh, Paris Baguette, Peter Pan at China Open: Why?

p3wong scored tickets to yesterday’s China Open where we - and “we” almost seems accurate given the light crowd - saw Ana Ivanovic beat Alize Cornet after a scrappy second set went to tiebreaker. Far less enjoyable: the food and drink at the stadium.

We started at Element Fresh, where sandwiches (actually half-sandwiches) cost RMB20 per. With the bread anything but fresh, I decided to forgo the RMB20 coffee and take my cash elsewhere. I headed to Paris Baguette, spotted an RMB15 coffee on the menu, and joined a short lineup. Upon reaching the front, I sadly learned that no such beverage was to be had. That led me to a third venue, Peter Pan, where I saw the patron ahead of me order coffee and receive a tiny topless plastic cup of brown liquid.

At this point, I began to wonder why three food and beverage outfits would go to the time, expense and trouble of setting up booths at such an event only to provide products and/or services of a far lower level than one would expect at their establishments proper. I can understand a slight drop in quality given logistics, but this went beyond that. Frankly, if that half-sandwich were my first experience of Element Fresh, why would I go out of my way to visit the place again?

As I pondered this, relief beckoned in the distance - the smiling face of Colonel Sanders. I finally secured a coffee: small but piping hot, and in a cup with a top, for RMB5.5 at KFC. A taste test revealed it to be cheap, drinkable and reliable - exactly what I might expect and what would make me head to KFC first if I should ever see these four places lined up at an event again.

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Lace ‘em up: Goose and Duck plans to show NHL games

Remember last fall when Cafe St. Laurent (now Boheme) announced it would screen NHL hockey on Sundays, then pulled the ultimate “delay of game” and never showed a single match? And then how Paddy O’Shea’s picked up some (slightly blurry) games off the Internet about six months later during the playoffs (thanks Glenn!)?

Well, there is additional hope this year for puck fans as the Goose and Duck is planning to show hockey (also known as The Best Game You Can Name). Things are still in the works as the G n’ D is fine-tuning the feed before dropping the puck (fair enough). I’ll have more details soon and, in the meantime, I’m preparing my stash of Tim Horton’s coffee for action.

By the way, “the best name you can name” is from the lyrics of The Hockey Song by Stompin’ Tom Connors:

Hello out there! We’re on the air,
It’s Hockey Night tonight;
Tension grows, the whistle blows,
And the puck goes down the ice.
The goalie jumps, and the players bump,
And the fans all go insane;
Someone roars, “Bobby scores!”
At the good old hockey game.

There is also a book of the same name, by Dave Bidini, who spoke at The Bookworm some time ago. The book is an entertaining mix of his ongoing love of hockey (he plays in a recreational league) and a series of interviews with ex-NHL players who played pro hockey a decade or more ago, and it touches on the lighter side of the game as well as sports violence, the hardships of being in the minor leagues, and the intense pre-1989 Russian-North American rivalry, which often had political overtones. For instance, these comments by coach Gary Green:

Canada-Russia was always intense, but Russia-America had its own dynamic. We were supposed to play the Russians when I was coaching the Capitals, but with the escalation of the war in Afghanistan, and the Americans’ reaction to it, they wanted to back out. They were holed up in their hotel rooms; people had called in bomb threats. There was major security around them. They had a phone installed on my bench, and told me that if that phone range during the game, I was to get my team off the ice right away. During the national anthem, I looked up and there were SWAT teams with snipers positioned in the upper rafters. The Capitals fans booed the Russian anthem all the way through. If we hadn’t tied the game — using a system that Scotty Bowman helped me develop — there would have been hell to pay. Who knows what would have happened.

Of course, much of the book is much lighter, as these comments by player Steve Ludzik reveal:

My first game in the NHL was with the ‘Hawks in Quebec City. During the game, I couldn’t understand why the whole bench was standing up every time the Nordiques took a slapshot from the blue line. I finally asked Tom Lysiak why this was happening, and he said, “Because our goalie, Tony O [Esposito], can’t see the puck that far away.”

See also:
Get your NHL and NBA on
: Part II
Hoop, hockey dreams
: NBA all-star game Monday morning, HNIC update
Hockey morning in Beijing
: ANOTHER delay of game
Hockey morning in Beijing
: Another delay of game
Delay of Game
: CSL Hockey Morning in Beijing postponed one week
Ice Time
: Hockey Morning in Beijing
Ice Time
: Hockey Night in Beijing!

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Bits and bites: Burger battles, Pekotan, Frantoi Celletti, Tun

What’s with the RMB75+ hamburger trend in the Sanlitun area these days? Is it sustainable? Who has the patty power: Let’s Burger (RMB48+, no fries), Blue Frog (RMB75), and Union Bar & Grill (RMB86), or Luga’s, The Den, and The Rickshaw (all RMB35-40)? Or should I just go to Le Petit Gourmand and have a nice roast beef on baguette, with fries and salad (RMB35)? Questions, questions…

An Italian joint called Frantoi Celleti is slated to open this weekend in Sanlitun South, next to Tun (accessible by that side street near Pink Loft). Billing itself as an “oil bar, restaurant, and cafe,” this place seats 120+ and offers high ceilings, elegant matte black furniture, a wood-fired pizza oven, and displays of olive grinders and grape presses. Expect a heavy emphasis - including tastings - on olive oil. I’ll have more on this place shortly.

Speaking of Tun, word has it that ladies drink for free from 8-11 PM tomorrow (Friday) night.

Pekotan (Central Park) offers good ambiance and a nice selection of buffet items at lunch, but is a case study in inefficiency. Watching the staff continually drag out and return food containers to the display case is annoying, both because it is time-consuming and it makes it hard to see what’s on offer. Why can’t they simply just scope the items from the display case?

The chill in the air reminds that opportunities for outdoor imbibing are dwindling. It’s nearly last call for patios, decks, and balconies at The Boat, The Stone Boat, Pavillion, Kokomo, et al.

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Cafe Europa: Refreshed wine list, Parker points program

Jianwai Soho restaurant Café Europa launched its new wine list on September 18 with a by-the-glass tasting. I sipped through eight of the dozen samples before being stopped by the strong arm of reason (translation: I needed to go to a meeting) and my favorite was Alvaro Palacios Petalos 2005 (Spain) with its tight black fruit. Lawson’s Dry Hills Riesling 2005 (New Zealand) will appeal to those who seek a citrus zing, while Meerlust Chardonnay 2006 (South Africa) is nice for those who like oak. I’d previously tried and liked Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (Australia).

For those into Parker points, Cafe Europa is offering four wines at a small markup that the American critic has rated 92 or higher:

  • Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2000 (France), 92 points, RMB630
  • J.J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Auslese Riesling 2004 (Germany), 92points, RMB720
  • Santa Rita Triple C 2004 (Chile), 93 points, RMB570
  • Torbreck “The Steading: 2005 (Australia), 93 points, RMB630

Café Europa also plans to offer a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from New Zealand to this list in mid-October and I’ll update the posts when they become available.

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As the Kro flies: RMB50 lunch special

Those looking to bulk up for the winter should check out the lunch special at Kro’s Nest near Workers Stadium: RMB50 gets you a soda, a salad, and a small pizza. By small, I mean four slices with enough toppings to fill the average noontime diner. By the way, according to regular contributor The Village Grouch, this place has the best fountain cola in town.

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Brunch buddy: Goodbye Cafe St. Laurent, hello Boheme

One of the more interesting bar scene transformations last year saw sweaty eighties night headquarters Alfa change its covered patio into a sedate weekend brunch spot called Cafe St. Laurent and offer a menu created by chef Billy Kawaja.

Kawaja has since left and the place now goes by Boheme, but much of the menu remains, including the eggs Benedict and lemon Ricotta pancakes. Also of note, this spot has replaced its dodgy cushions, which held a baby bib’s worth of stains, and aired out the men’s bathroom. If they could only get to work clearing some junk off that semitransparent plastic roof!

In any case, our table of four enjoyed the pancakes, smoked salmon, and eggs Benedict. I found the latter slightly overcooked and in need of more seasoning, but it didn’t stop me from finishing every drop. Though the portions remain modest, the prices on some items appear lower and this remains a nice place to relax for a few hours on a Sunday afternoon. As for the Bloody Mary, long a key draw for me, it will have to wait until the next visit.

Boheme Beijing

Boheme: Pancakes and eggs Benedict (photo: PA)

See also: A Bloody Mary brunch

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Alba: Cocktail surprise

The last thing I expected to find at Alba, the new Italian joint behind fellow eatery Bella in China View, were good cocktails.

(That’s not exactly true: The last thing I expected was a passed-out Michael Phelps using his eight Olympics gold medals as a pillow while he slept off a heavy month-long all-you-can-drink binge at Paw Paw disco across the street, but let’s be realistic here.)

The spicy Margarita, which comes with a “Chamomille infusion” and a chili pepper garnish, provided excellent late-summer refreshment. Fellow beverage researched 8 Songs tried a Beijing Island Ice Tea (RMB50), which includes five spirits and lychee liquor, and gave it a thumb up.

Alba offers a modest menu of wines, with about eight by the glass (all from East Meets West), as well as beer from RMB15 for a Tsing Tao. We enjoyed several plates of antipasto, with a decent mix of meats and cheeses, as we sipped our cocktails on the patio.

The downsides: The at-times slow service, especially given the light traffic on this night, and bathrooms that are about 20 meters away and have a “rough and ready” feel, in contrast to the spotlessness of Alba itself.

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Saturday sum-up: Parties, parties, parties… and “lady bar” touts

Plenty of action about town yesterday, including Yugong Yishan, White Rabbit, and The Bookworm marking birthdays, Blue Frog and new Nali studio celebrating openings, and Torres China holding its second Taste of Nations event (write-up to come).

I made my first visit to Yunnan restaurant Middle Eight, east of 3.3, and found it so busy that we had to bunker down and wait for a table. A later visit to Sanlitun North found the place bustling, with that street outside Tongli being increasingly popular now that police have started to block vehicles from entering. Sanlitun South also saw crowds, with Tun - my sleeper pick for this winter - drawing a better turnout.

The standout annoyance of the night: the return of the “lady bar” touts, who are positioning themselves at the northeast corner of Sanlitun Village and hassling male bar-goers, including those heading into Blue Frog, Union Bar and Grill, Element Fresh, and the like. Not the best association for these new places…

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The Pavillion: Open again

The Pavillion has reopened after being forced to close for the Olympics and part of the Paralympics. Since opening nearly three years, this place has steadily grown, with the biggest additions being the glassed-in area on the east side and one of the city’s best patios, complete with serving station, out back. It also offers a good wine and Whiskey selection, and some of the coziest chairs in town in which to enjoy them.

See also: Chillin’ at the Pavillion

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Prost! German brew pub Drei Kronen 1308 to officially open October 10

Massive German brew pub Drei Kronen 1308 in China View has slated its grand opening for October 10 to 18. A franchise of the 700-year-old Baverian brewery “Three Crowns”, Drei Kronen held its “soft opening” in mid-August. It shares ownership links with Klubb Rouge and Stadium sports bar in the next building. Expect an Octoberfest atmosphere next month as well as “Bavarian nights”, Sunday brunches, and live music.

Drei Kronen is a cavernous place, with massive coppers tanks, a sturdy bar, and wraparound balconies on the second and third floor. A rooftop beer garden includes a partially glass roof that provides a view of the scene a dozen meters below.

Brew master Hans Gerner is currently making wheat, lager, and dark beers, and says the operation has a capacity of more than 100,000 liters per month. The beer is a bit pricey, with a 500 ML mug costing RMB58, but the place does offer a daily two-for-one happy hour, from 5 to 7 PM.

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Get hopping: Yugong Yishan, White Rabbit mark anniversaries Saturday

This Saturday is a good time to let your, er, “hare” down and hop between two Beijing clubs that are marking their first anniversaries - Yugong Yishan and White Rabbit.

Actually, Yugong Yishan’s birth certificate reveals it to be quite a bit older, but it’s only been in its new space - the former Rui Fu - for a year. More than a dozen DJs will be on hand there Saturday night. No charge at the door.

Meanwhile, White Rabbit has lined up 20 DJs for a party that is conservatively timed for 11 PM to 8 AM. No charge at the door before 1 AM.

By the way, if you have a line of 100 rabbits in a row and 99 of them take 1 step backwards, what do you have?

A receding hare line!

(Sorry, bad rabbit humour. Enjoy the weekend.)

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Goodbye Olympics, goodbye Paralympics, hello Hangover

Last night at China Doll 3.3, I watched two locals plow into a crowded elevator before the occupants, including several obviously blind ones, could exit. (Tip: the walking sticks are a giveaway.) One of many recent signs, thought I, that Beijing is returning to normal.

In other words, The Fun and The Games are over.

In six weeks, we have gone from a cloud of doom and gloom about potential 2 AM curfews, regular ID checks by police, and so on, to the return of traffic, pollution, and “lady bar” touts, with many incredible moments squeezed in between, including the opening ceremony, inspiring performances by Olympians and Paralympians, and partying with friends and with visitors from around the globe. I have written plenty about The Games, so this is my last word: fun.

Now, a good chunk of the city’s bar scene reminds me of a lad who attended his first black-tie affair and woke the next morning to find a bill for the tuxedo, his head pounding from too much drink, and a few angry emails from friends who say he ignored them the night before. (Maybe he’s also got a hickey and no idea of who gave it to him.)

OK, that’s not a perfect analogy, but there are bars out there who invested plenty of money and/or saw a flurry of business during the Games and/or raised the ire of regulars via price increases, cover charges, private parties - you name it. Now, it’s time for a bit of a “hangover”, one I suspect will be prolonged by two factors arising from the Olympics:

The first is overcapacity in the bar, club and restaurant scene due to so many new establishments opening this past year in the hopes of an Olympic payoff.

The second is fallout from the stricter visa regulations instituted earlier this year that led to numerous people leaving, some of them for good.

Add in the worsening economy, the exodus of foreigners associated with the games, and rising costs for food, alcohol, and other supplies, and it makes now - not six weeks ago - an appropriate time for a little doom and gloom. Hopefully, the scene is healthier than my observations indicate, but it does raise the question as to which places are likeliest to succeed and fail. I’ll have more on this tomorrow.

Don't have a cow? As for unemployed Paralympics mascots, bar scene prospects look a bit bleak.

Will work for grass: Both Paralympic mascots and many Beijing bars face uncertain post-Games prospects.

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Tasting time: Cafe Europa, Taste of the Nations, and more

wine-red-glasses.jpg

Upcoming wine events in Beijing

Thursday, September 18, 7 PM, Café Europa (Jianwai SOHO), RMB15+ per half-glass
By-the-glass tasting of new wine list; call 5869-5663 for more info.

Thursday, September 18, 7-8:30 PM, Amigo (Central Park), free
Top Cellar’s best sellers
, with 8 wines from Top Cellar; RSVP at marketing@topcellar.com.cn.

Friday, September 19, 7-11 PM, Oh! Marco (Financial Street area), RMB100
8 Chilean & French wines at RMB100 per bottle; RSVP at 6622-0566.

Saturday, September 20, Radisson SAS Hotel, RMB 228 (RSVP essential)
Taste of the Nations; 150 wines from 12 countries; by Torres China; RSVP with Tony Li at 5165-5519, x284 or tonyli@torres.com.cn.

Wednesday, September 24, 7:30 PM, Westin Chaoyang, RMB2888
Grange dinner and auction, with wine maker Kym Shroeter; auction of 2003 Grange magnum; RSVP with Helen Lu at 6587-3803 / eventsby@asc-wines.com.

Thursday, September 25, 7 PM, Aria (China World Hotel), RMB1788
World Series of Wine: New Zealand Chardonnays and Pinots vs Burgundy Classics, with Summergate; RSVP with Danny Kane at danny.kane@shangri-la.com / 6505-2266, x36.

October 11, 3 PM, Aria (China World Hotel), call for info
Single malt tasting, including Glen Elgin, Glenkinchie, Royal Lochnagar, and Talisker, with Peter Kendall; for info, call 6505-2266, x36 or email danny.kane@shangri-la.com.

October 16, 7-8:30 PM, Amigo (Central Park), free
Chilean Wine Tasting, by Top Cellar, RSVP at www.topcellar.com.cn, marketing@topcellar.com.cn, or 13241-220-468.

October, 7 PM, Aria (China World Hotel), RMB1788
World Series of Wine: The Tour of Italy, with Summergate; RSVP with Danny Kane at danny.kane@shangri-la.com / 6505-2266, x36.

November, 7 PM, Aria (China World Hotel), RMB1588
World Series of Wine: The Grange Challenge, with Summergate; RSVP with Danny Kane at danny.kane@shangri-la.com / 6505-2266, x36.

December, 7 PM, Aria (China World Hotel), RMB1388
World Series of Wine: Hidden Gems, with Summergate; RSVP with Danny Kane at danny.kane@shangri-la.com / 6505-2266, x36.

Saturday, November 29, Hilton, price TBA
Food & Wine Experience XI
, by Beijing Hilton; more details to come.

January, 7 PM, Aria (China World Hotel), RMB4888
World Series of Wine: The Ultimate Dinner - The Judgement of Aria, with Summergate; RSVP with Danny Kane at danny.kane@shangri-la.com / 6505-2266, x36.

Note: If you intend to attend any of the above events, it is best to confirm the details with the venue ahead of time. To get a wine event listed, send event info, preferably in text format, to beijingboyce@yahoo.com.

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Oh, really? Aussie paper claims Olympians’ drinks “spiked” at China Doll 3.3

Down Under newspaper The Age claims that Australian and other athletes had their drinks spiked at “China Doll” during the Olympics. From the article:

A number of Australian Olympic team members were victims of having their drinks spiked in a Beijing nightclub while celebrating the end of their competitions at the Games, it has been revealed.

The Australian Olympic Committee on Wednesday confirmed that the first victim - a female athlete and understood to be an archer - was struck ill at the end of the first week while at the China Doll bar after her events had finished…

One other victim last night told Fairfax Media that in their case they suddenly felt ill, vomited and then passed out on a couch in the otherwise popular nightclub….

The spate of attacks that followed the archer’s case led to the the AOC sending out an SMS alert to all team members and staff just before the last weekend when most celebrations would begin to stay clear of the bar.

This article raises more questions than it answers, not least of which is this: If the AOC considered the situation severe enough to warn Australian athletes to avoid the club, then why, according to The Age, did it not file a report with the Beijing police and/or Olympic authorities in an attempt to warn everyone else?

Other questions include:

  • To which China Doll does the accusation apply - the one in Tongli Studio or the one in the 3.3 building? [I checked with a local correspondent for The Age - she didn't write the piece - and was told it refers to China Doll 3.3.]
  • Given that the article cites a few athletes who thought or suspected drink spiking, on what basis did the Age decide the drinks were spiked as opposed to, say, several athletes from among thousands of partiers possibly getting sick for other reasons?
  • The Age claims, “Australians were not the only targets.” So, which other teams were affected?
  • The Age claims, “The AOC does not believe that the alleged attacks were aimed at setting up Australians to fail anti-doping tests” and AOC spokesperson Mike Tancred is quoted as saying, “it was more someone locally doing it.” Assuming this quote is accurate, how did Tancred determine the drinks were spiked by someone acting “locally.”

Also of interest is the lack of a quote from China Doll 3.3 or any indication The Age contacted the club. I called one co-owner and he said, “We don’t spike drinks. Why would we?”

I have seen the original SMS and it is about as substantive as this story. That’s not to say that The Age is definitely wrong - I believe drinks do get spiked on occasion - but that in terms of inadequate evidence, sourcing, and follow-up, this story ranks a spot on the podium beside that South China Morning Post article published just before The Games.

(Hat tip to 8 Songs and ER for sending me the link to this story.)

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At the printer: New newsletter coming

Thanks to those who emailed me about the newsletter - it will be out by the weekend. These past six weeks have been the most active I have seen in the Beijing bar and restaurant scene, so this issue will be a biggie.

Off the top of my head, some openings: Mosto, Let’s Burger, Blue Frog (Sanlitun), Luga’s Villa, Boutique Wine Cellar, Union Bar & Grill, 25 Degrees, Element Fresh, Peppes Pizza, Mesh, Sureno, Well, Bling, All Star, Punk, Drei Kronen 1308, Alba, The Cellar Lounge, Stadium, Sex and Da City II, Piazza Italia, and the new Maxim’s, and that’s just for a start. Those free English-language magazines could fill a double-issue with all this stuff.

To those who’ve signed up for the newsletter but not yet received it, I’ve updated the mailing list so an issue should soon be in your box. For those who would like to get get it, send an email with “sign me up” in the subject line to beijingboyce@yahoo.com.

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