Beijing Boyce

A Somewhat Young China Hand on the Local Drinking Scene

Saturday night snapshots: Salt, Frank’s, Eudora, Bed

‘Cause I get crazy on a Saturday night
I get crazy on a Saturday night
Ho, ho, ho, ho
I get crazy!

- David Hasselhoff


I hit the town with Special K on Saturday night and it’s only proper to start this post by paying tribute to one of his favorite singers (see above). With that out of the way, the lowdown:

Salt
Is it any surprise this place is packed? Consider: 1) Salt appeals to the under-served “I hate paying hotel prices” crowd (see also: Chef Too); 2) owner Gaby has a following (see also: Alameda); 3) the limited menu means the kitchen staff is focused and delivery is speedy; 4) the owner is on hand to ensure good consistent service. It sounds simple in theory but is difficult in practice.

I start with the tuna with mango and watercress salad. The fish ought to rule, but too much pepper and mango trumps it, though this dish pairs well with the Peter Lehmahn Shiraz-Grenache. As for the main, I find the sauce too rich for my perfectly cooked medium steak, though it again matches well with the wine. The side of garlic mashed potatoes and the salad, especially the tomatoes, are tasty.

Given the service, food, and two glasses of wine, RMB426 is reasonable. The only problem: Special K has a hot light shining in his face and thus sweats his way through the meal. (By the way, thank Buddha we didn’t have six more people or we would have faced a “suggested” 10-percent service charge for tables of eight, according to the menu.)

Frank’s Place
Downstairs from Salt, we grab a beer and watch the women’s Wimbledon final. (By the way, a good story: two players battling it out as they reach the far end of their careers. An excellent story: They are both black in a largely white sport. An amazing story: they are sisters. Explain to me again why we need reality TV?)

Anyway, Frank’s is half-full, though the deck is empty. The staff is efficient in serving drinks and turning on the tennis. We stick to Newcastle Brown Ale at RMB30 per bottle, though I notice the place has a very good happy hour, with RMB12 local draft and deep discounts on other beverages. By the way, I get the feeling that if I didn’t come back for three years, I’d pretty much find the same crowd here (and no, that’s not a criticism).

The Cave
I twice pop my head into this basement wine bar below Frank’s - it’s empty both before and after dinner. This is unfortunate because the owners are friendly and the wine list is extensive.

Eudora Station
My thoughts about Eudora before Saturday night: That place is always empty. My thoughts about Eudora on Saturday night, after my first visit in more than a year: The deck is packed, they are showing Wimbledon, and Bacardi and Rum is only RMB15. Woot, woot! We didn’t plan to stop, but the bustling deck draws us in as we walk by. Three things I like about the place:

1) Friendly employees promptly deliver the drinks and remove empties, get along behind the bar, and always seem to be doing something useful. The only downside: one waiter takes our initial order for RMB40 Jack and Coke, another suggests we try the RMB15 Bacardi and Rum, and confusion eventually ensues as to how many of each we ordered.

2) Detailed sports schedules are posted on the wall, on a big chalkboard, and in the toilets - by the time you’ve washed your hands, you’ve decided to come back for the men’s tennis final and to avoid the Boston Red Sox-New York Yankees game.

3) A young couple, apparently on a date, sit at the bar. The woman drinks less than 10 percent of her drink during their 90-minute tete-a-tete and the situation looks hopeless. Then she quickly drains the guy’s Guinnness, finishes her cocktail in a half-dozen gulps, and they leave. I think that performance beat the Wimbledon final.

Bed
The place is crowded as usual, with a birthday party and a slew of regular patrons. I have mixed feelings about Bed. On one hand, I usually see a half-dozen people I know, the hutong feel is nice once in a while, and the place has plenty of nooks and crannies in which to chill and chat. On the other, I’m not a fan of bartenders who use their bare hands on the mint, the limes, and the ice when making Mojitos. Tongs are not expensive!

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