Beijing Boyce

Eleven PM, just ten days after an opening bash that saw people flank to shank, and Klubb Rouge is… empty? Well, not totally - about 20 patrons are scattered on the main floor in pockets of resistance, but that’s a pretty light turnout this early into the game.

Optimists might argue that potential patrons are having visa problems or off to that beach party by The Great Wall or haven’t heard of the place or something. But methinks we are witnessing the club version of the Kerry Center Corollary : a hotel bar opens, it offers drinks, décor and/or prices to rival Centro , people go once or maybe twice, and then they return to Centro because at least the place is reliably busy .

Given Klubb Rouge’s private rooms , lounges, and decks, its long bar headed by a dance floor, and the massive pillars featuring illuminated images of soft-porn versions of 1930s Shanghai advert models, the rival here would seem to be Suzie Wong . Well, except when it comes to drinks - a martini won’t run you RMB80 at Suzie’s.

Klubb Rouge has a big space , a friendly staff , an excellent sound system and, from that rooftop, a good view . Perhaps the official launch of its deck tonight will help the place find its niche and paint the town red.

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Over at the recently opened China Doll in the 3.3 Building, the lounge is nearly empty, but the main bar and dance floor are busy. This club starts with several advantages: 1) it is a brand ; 2) its management includes people (notably Ai Wan ) who are able to draw crowds and/or media attention; 3) it has a lot of investors who, at least early on, will drag along their friends and acquaintances.

No doubt, China Doll has its problems, but it provides something that overcomes them - fun . So, the sound system’s bass might result in an annoying molar-shaking rattle at times, but the music is fun. The layout might have too many steps on which to trip, but the colors, textures, and design are fun. And so on. About the only thing that isn’t fun is security guards, who look a bit menacing.

The vibe here is notably different from Club China Doll , which is darker and more music-focused. Cooler heads prevailing, there should be enough space in Sanlitun for the two dolls to do well.

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At 2 AM, we hit The Den . Ranking among the oldest bars in Beijing, this place is generally a source of decent service and pub grub, notably the four-cheese pizzas , the hamburgers with fried egg on top, and the combo platters.

Earlier, I popped into Aperitivo for a drink. This is the kind of Saturday night spot where you show up, chat with your mates, don’t meddle in strangers’ business, and stumble home a few hours later.

- And I started the night at Rumi , where I had my fill of food (great beef and chicken!) and sampled three red wines from Hungary and an ice wine from Xinjiang . I’ll have more of these soon.