Beijing Boyce

Music lovers: head to Shunyi’s The Pomegranate this Saturday for the “pet sounds” of blues bands Black Cat Bone and The Rhythm Dogs. Join host “Humble Mike” as The Pomegranate marks its one-year anniversary with food, drinks, guitar licks and howling vocals. (The Pomegranate, September 1, 4:30-11 PM)

By the way, whenever I hear “cats and dogs”, I’m reminded of this scene from the movie Ghostbusters…

Dr. Peter Venkman: This city is headed for a disaster of biblical proportions.

Mayor: What do you mean, “biblical”?

Dr Ray Stantz: What he means is Old Testament, Mr. Mayor, real wrath-of-God type stuff.

Dr. Peter Venkman: Exactly.

Dr Ray Stantz: Fire and brimstone coming down from the skies. Rivers and seas boiling.

Dr. Egon Spengler: Forty years of darkness. Earthquakes, volcanoes…

Winston Zeddemore: The dead rising from the grave.

Dr. Peter Venkman: Human sacrifice, dogs and cats living together - mass hysteria.

The other day I placed my nose above a glass of wine and picked up an intriguing aroma of car exhaust, construction site dust, coal, and asbestos. Then I realized that it wasn’t the wine, it was the overwhelming smell of Beijing air. Of course, I’m kidding - I don’t know what asbestos smell like - but the point is that the air is bad, very bad, and this is the worst sustained period of pollution I’ve experienced in a dozen years in Asia.

Providing context for this experience is a new blog -  Beijing Air: just how bad is it?. In easy-to-understand (and sobering) language, it explains the air pollution index, how China measures pollution vis-a-vis the United States and Europe, the impact of that recent four-day partial car ban, and how Beijing’s air fares in contrast to other Chinese cities.

Sobering stuff…

What is most disturbing to me about the current situation is that people are focused on whether the city can clean up for a few weeks - for the Olympics - rather than cleaning up in general.

Again, sobering stuff…

If that’s not enough to make me want to crack open a bottle of Glaetzer Shiraz - available from Palette Vino and with a powerful nose that will overwhelm the bad air -  then I don’t know what is.

Another (grayish) blue sky day…

Hooters, the American restaurant chain widely known for its top-heavy “Hooters girls”, is set to open in Beijing on September 12 on Workers’ Stadium East Road, just a hop, skip and jump from The Den (look for the trademark owl* in the second-floor windows).

No doubt this will launch a thousand all-too-predictable jokes - ”where will they find local staff?”, etc** - as well as indignation among some, though if my readers are indicative, a great many people are looking forward to the opening. Hooters has two Shanghai outlets and, according to an industry insider and friends who have visited them, they are doing a good business.

The doors open at 11 AM…

* People commonly associate the sound “hoot” with an owl, thus explaining the animal’s presence in the chain’s logo. Plus, owls have two really big and round eyes.

* Unfortunately for the yuksters, Maggies moved from up the street to near Ritan Park a few years back, otherwise there could have been another thousand all-too-predicable jokes about the titular Hooters-Maggies-Den triangle.

I attended seven lectures and tasted fourteen local wines on August 9, the second day of the International Workshop on the Wine Market in China, held in Beijing. I put notes from the first three lectures on my grapewallofchina.com site in case anyone is interested:

Shop til’ you pop
Getting wine to China is one thing, getting consumers to pull the cork on a purchase is quite another. Huiqin Ma, associate professor at China Agricultural University and the workshop’s organizer, reports on a survey done with Ying Yu of 230 shoppers in Beijing supermarkets.

China Wine 101
Qi Wang, general secretary of the China Alcoholic Drinks Industry Association, provides facts and figures on Chinese wine production, wineries, imports and exports, and regulations.

Taste, with Chinese characteristics
Here’s a shocker: Chinese people drink wine to get drunk. That statement might trigger eye rolls from some people, but in a world where pairing wine and food gains growing popularity, it’s an important point, and one made by wine educator and writer Frankie Zhao, who discusses the Chinese palate.

There’s the toilet, but where’re the dumplings?

We won’t swim in your toilet if you don’t pee in our pool goes a famous saying. It’s one that might be adopted for Beijing’s public toilets since they’ll no longer be allowed to be neighbors with food stands. I don’t exactly know what that saying might be - maybe We won’t eat in your toilet if you don’t squat in our kitchen - but it would be interesting to know how “food stall” is defined: whether it means a guy hawking ice cream cones near the door of a public toilet or a restaurant that shares the same building.

Interestingly, Taiwan has no such qualms about mixing eating and flushing.

The Stone Boat continues its summer schedule on Thursday with “boat folk”, featuring “earthy Chinese roots music” at 9 PM.

Friday night brings three continents together, with a tasting of Santa Mia wines (Chile) from Jebsen and President cheeses (France) from Sinodis, from 7:30 to 9:30 PM (50 kuai per person). Next up is Panjir, with its, “Indian-style beats and Uighur Flamenco chords.”

On Saturday, Beijing reggae band Upstepper is slated to provide, according to Das Boat, “a unique evening of loose n’ live acoustic reggae jams, downtempo MCs, impromptu tub-thumping and all-round good vibrations.”

Extra bonus: If you arrive early enough, you can watch people catching fish in the pond nearby…

The mission: take cocktails made by ten top Beijing bartenders on the spot, grade them on creativity, taste, aroma, appearance and so on, and determine which entrant goes to New Zealand for the finals of 42 Below’s Cocktail World Cup.

It sounded both fun and serious, and an excellent way to escape the office on time, so I gratefully accepted an offer to be one of three judges at the Beijing qualifier on July 25. The event promotes (duh) 42 Below - each drink included at least one of its vodkas - and gave entrants from Aria, Centro, China Doll, Lush, Q Bar and the Regent a chance to show their stuff.

Frankly, while I tended to make dumb remarks when the emcee thrust a microphone at me - “it’s a kiwi cocktail - without the kiwi”, “it’s perfect for Valentine’s Day - sweet and will get your date drunk”, “it’s a meal in a glass”, etc - I took the contest seriously, especially given the prize. And there was significant disagreement among the judges over the winner (see below).

Some thoughts on the contest:

1. My favorite drink was “42 Below” by China Doll’s Alan Wu - vodka, Cointreau, Campari, orange and cranberry juices, with a thin wedge of citrus across the top that provides some zing as you sip this well-balanced cocktail. It’s subtle in taste, simple in appearance and good as an after-work drink or something to sip all night with friends. I also liked the Tutti Frutti by The Regent’s Reggie (a light drink with a traditional look- “all we need is sand!”) and the fragrant Mint Mojito by Lush’s Dong Ye (”it’s lush, minty and icy”).

2. Surprisingly, while considered by many to be the city’s top bartenders, Q Bar’s George Zhou and Echo Sun didn’t rank in anyone’s top three. Frankly, their drinks were middle of the road and I wondered why they didn’t go with a variation of their original cocktails, such as the GE. Why!?

3. The event was on the roof of Aria. The organizers laid down sod, set up a bar (fronted by enormous blocks of ice), added some goal posts (for the World Cup feel), and had enough space for 100 observers. Original, for sure, and with a good view of the skyline.

4. The 42 Below guys and their marketing company did a good job of briefing us. Seven Dai, one of the judges, provided an excellent crash course on cocktail judging basics.

5. The winner was Johnson Ren of Aria. His entry consisted of a syrup-y mango drink topped by a long rectangular piece of jelly on a skewer with half a strawberry. It’s the one I called “a meal in a glass.” The other two judges argued it was “international” and unique. My view was that the drink’s taste was average, it’s advantage was the garnish and appearance (which were supposed to count for a minor part of the score) and I doubt we would ever order this in a bar (hey, I’m a consumer). Plus, in hindsight, bartenders submitted their recipes ahead of time and this was the only one substituted during the contest. Anyway, nothing against Johnson - he’s a professional, speaks English, seems a decent guy, that jelly does seem unique, and he did convince two out of three of us that he deserved to wine, so I’m sure he’ll do well in New Zealand - it’s just that the contest was the Cocktail World Cup, not Cocktail GARNISH World Cup.

By the way, by contest’s end, I was incredibly… sober! We were so busy watching the bartenders and grading drinks, we only had time for a few sips of each.

Notes: Of the ten bartenders, I know two very well (George Zhou and Echo Sun of Q Bar, previously Midnight, First Cafe) and have met one on several occasions (Bruce Li of Aria, previously Centro). I have not judged a cocktail contest before, nor consider myself a cocktail expert. The other judges were Seven Dai from 3 on the Bund in Shanghai (last year’s winner) and Noel Qi from ASC Fine Wines. The Friday after the contest, I went to China Doll and had another of Alan’s 42 Belows. Finally, I find it difficult to not refer to 42 Below as rock band Level 42.

Stock up on Qingdao next July - according to China Briefing blog, some higher-end bars and restaurants have “done deals with international events organizations during the Olympics, and sold rights to use the venue during this time.” The event companies then sub-lease the venues to corporate clients. The blog cites The Pavillion as an example:

[The] owner told me of the deal he’d arranged and the likely consequences to regulars. ‘It’ll be up to US$100 just to get in,’ he said, ‘and many of the venues will be invitation only’.

We may need to rewrite the Beijing Olympics slogan, though the “dream” part may still well apply, since that’s what we’ll likely be doing if we expect to patronize some places.

One industry insider says the going rate for good spots is in the area of USD30,000 per day, while another, who says he has been advising companies on events since this spring, estimates “90 percent of decent places have gone.” [Note: I’m not sure how “decent” is defined.]

“A company I was working for came over last month - [it] really struggled to find a decent venue that wasn’t booked,” he says. “Bidding wars are already on… many bars will make their startup money back and more just in August 2008. If they can last that long.”

Expect more on this story…

Once stationed near the southern gate of Chaoyang Park, Latinos was chai’d in the front end of 2006. It reopened in a matter of months in Nanxincang, near Dongshishitiao, and celebrated its one-year anniversary on Saturday night. And with good reason, as this year it picked up awards for outstanding” dance club from that’s Beijing and best dance venue from City Weekend.

Yesterday, I babbled on about changes in the former Browns-Bookworm-Midnight triangle. It’s due west [Actually, it’s east; thanks to Chris for the correction - Boyce] of the former Sanlitun South bar street, which is undeveloped more than two years after being razed and features a mess of trees growing on rubble. Anyway, while the street is gone, its spirit lives on, and patrons can get a blast from the past at the thriving Facebook group Sanlitun Bar Street Alumni, which already boasts over 1000 members…

About 18 months ago, a number of fun places opened in the area just southeast of the former Sanlitun beer mug. You could spend a night popping into The Bookworm (brand-spanking new), Modern Nomads (Mongolian vodka martinis and throat singing), Midnight (excellent drinks by Austin, George and Echo) and Browns (a weekend madhouse) as well as stalwarts like Rock n’ Roll, Salsa Caribe and First Cafe. Even better, the area was largely devoid of the DVD hawkers, lady bar touts and beggars that plague its northern sibling.

Well, three of the four are closed, arguably for very different reasons. Perhaps this was foreshadowed when work began nearby on that huge building, which had remained dormant for years, and the Beijing beer mug (a tourist beacon if there ever was one) and First Café (still my favorite bar ever in Beijing) got chai’d.

Modern Nomads, while having a unique angle, went down swinging, though only a few customers were around to watch the spectacle. Midnight had no problem drawing crowds, but friction between the bartenders and owner - including a well-known story in which one of the latter broke a bottle over the head of one of the former’s cronies - meant a parting of the ways and the eventual cob-webbing of the place. And more recently, Browns, also once a major draw, finally went out with a whimper after more than a year of poor marketing. Only The Bookworm remains and while service can be spotty the place does offer a good combination of books, seminars and beverages (a nice single malt collection has it).

In the meantime, things keep changing. The Rickshaw took over the Midnight spot a few months ago and has been a success. The new Nanjie will soon open in the Modern Nomads spot (which had been Zone de Confort before that). And Browns is… empty… though I doubt it will be so for long.

I’m not sure what my point is except I was thinking about this as I recently wandered along the remains of what once had been old Sanlitun South Street, which was razed thirty months ago for redevelopment and now is a brand, new… uh… field full of unplanned two-meter trees covering rubble. Makes you think they might have just waited on the whole chai thing, doesn’t it?

Way past last call: Sanlitun South bar street was chai’d over two
years ago, but redevelopment has yet to begin, with the area now
covered by two-meter high pine trees (which I’ll show just as soon
as I figure out how to download photos from my fancy K-Touch
B922 phone).

A thread at thatsbj.com has some unkind things to say about The Bookworm as does a former co-worker (she’s written several times via Skype, “I’m in Bookworm and no one’s taking my order”), a current one (”it took an hour and a half to get a coffee and a meal”), and numerous readers. When it opened, I patronized Bookworm thrice weekly, but have found the service increasingly lackluster, including a very bad lunch experience (see last item here).

Around the corner, The Rickshaw has been drawing some of The Bookworm’s wireless crowd, but suffers from its own issues with consistent service. I introduced two friends to the place last night and it took ages to get our food, one guy’s dish came 20 minutes after another’s, and the wings were the puniest I’ve seen (and carrying that new and higher 3-kuai price tag). Another co-worker calls The Rickshaw’s recent service “terrible”, which includes the pay-first policy, confusion among the wait staff, and wrong orders delivered to her table.

On Sunday - that would be July 29: yes, I’m a bit behind on my writing - I decided to check out The Bookworm and The Rickshaw with a simple mission: to see if someone proactively takes my order (it seems reasonable to me that new customers should be approached by the staff, no?).

5:07
I arrive in The Bookworm - It’s no secret that there’s a new customer, since I walked in, crossed the room, and made a racket plugging in my computer.

5:11
I’ve checked my blog stats. Wow, I’m thirsty! I turn and stare at the service counter for five seconds. Several staff stand around busily chatting to one another - oblivious.

5:15
A waitress comes toward the table. She picks up an empty soda can and looks around for other finished drinks but fails to realize I have no finished drink because, well, I have no drink period.

5:24
I’m still sans beverage. It can’t be that I smell bad - I took a shower before I came here.

5:27
Two guys at a nearby table just got a draft beer and a Corona. Those look pretty good.

5:33
I finished a blog post. Man, I’m parched! I remember when I would visit The Bookworm, have a coffee or two, a beer, and then some food, spending several hours and a nice chunk of cash. Actually, The Bookworm is not nearly as busy or loud as usual. It’d be pleasant if I asked for a drink, but I need to stick to the mission.

5:35
I can see The Rickshaw from the window. It’s probably hot in there but I could use a pint of Qingdao and a burrito.

5:38
The woman across from me wants to pay, thus a waitress is inches away. It would seem  a perfect time to look my way and say, “Hey, how about a refreshing beverage?” They both leave…

5:42
… and closing my laptop, so do I.

5:43
I walk past the women manning the parking lot near The Bookworm - they are having a good time, and getting some cultural education, watching a half-dozen foreigners playing beer pong at The Rickshaw.

5:44
Arrive in The Rickshaw: Upstairs is bustling so I park downstairs. There are a half-dozen people, including four with laptops, and overall it’s as crowded as The Bookworm. It’s hot.

5:45
A waitress stands two meters from me and looks out at the deck, then turns around and disappears.

5:47
Manager Chad comes down and asks a waitress, “Did you get his Margarita yet?” Then he heads back up.

5:49
Chad is back to make sure that Margarita is being made and delivered. Two waitresses pass by the table. Man, I feel invisible today. Maybe I do smell.

5:53
A waiter comes over, gives me a food and a drinks menu. Nine minutes: not great, but better than The Bookworm… I order a quesadilla and draft beer.

5:57
The Qingdao arrives, I pay the bill. Do they have fapiao? Yes.

5:58
My change and fapiao arrives.

6:04
My burrito arrives as I talk to Chad. it’s great. Twenty minutes in and I have food, drink, wireless and a really sweaty T-shirt.

So, there you have it - Rickshaw tops Bookworm on this particular mission, though it be a somewhat sweaty affair.

By the way, these comments about service should be taken in context. Our fair city is far better off now that is has The Bookworm (witness the excellent lecture there last night by Steven Schwankert) and The Rickshaw (an unpretentious atmosphere perfect for Beijing). Kudos to the owners and the staff for making people like me and my friends and co-workers like these places enough that we patronize - and complain - about them. It’s simplly that we… um… want our drinks and grub! (And are willing to pay cold hard cash for them!)

(Note: I went to The Bookworm last Thursday night and my order was taken and then delilvered within three minutes. Go figure.)

Get out your acronym finder as CAU (China Agricultural University), CSV (Chinese Society for Viticulture), CADIA (China Alcoholic Drinks Industry Association) and OIV (International Organization of Vine and Wine) team up for the International Workshop on the Chinese Wine Market and Wine-related Products, August 8 to 10 in Beijing.

Day 1 features a visit to the Huailai wine region’s Great Wall Winery and to the Great Wall itself, followed by a wine dinner.

Day 2 includes seminars on China’s current wine market, on government policies and regulations on imported wines in China, and on market research on Chinese buyers. Attendees will hear about the experiences of a boutique winery (Grace Vineyard) and a retailer (Metro) in China, and about brand positioning. The day will wrap up with a tasting of Chinese wines.

Day 3 includes foreign experts speakers about the wine industry in the US, France and Australia. An afternoon session will focus on the media and wine promotion in China.

The three-dayworkshop, including the wine tastings, dinners and winery tour, is 550 euros. There are more details here, but note that the exact itinerary will likely differ slightly.

Here are 10 reasons off the top of my head why The Rickshaw should take over the Browns location:

1. Remember when the Sanlitun beer mug was a beacon for those heading out for a night at the bars? Well, it got chai’d. The Rickshaw isn’t too far away and once that huge building behind it is finished, who knows?

2. Before The Rickshaw, there was Midnight, an extremely popular cocktail bar… until the bartenders fell out with the landlord and opened their own place (Q Bar). Well, the landlord hasn’t changed.

3. Part of The Rickshaw’s appeal is the balcony and deck. Come winter, they’ll be closed, reducing available space. Browns has lots of space, enough for a dozen-plus beer pong tables in that back room even.

4. First Saddle, then COX, then The Rickshaw. Expansion is in the owners’ nature.

5. The changing nature of Sanlitun South recently brought the closure of previously popular COX and makes the future doubtful for currently popular Saddle. This means The Rickshaw could merge staff from three establisments into a bigger place like Browns.

6. The success of Saddle, COX and The Rickshaw would make investors amiable to getting involved.

7. When Browns was in its heyday, it offered good food (burgers, pizza, wings), bar characters (Glenn, Jacky et al) and, well, okay music. The Rickshaw has very good food (burritos, wings, chicken burgers), bar characters (Chad, Luge et al), and, one might argue, much better music.

8. Nanjie is about to reopen nearby in the former Modern Nomads, a two-story spot that is a bit bigger than The Rickshaw. The Rickshaw can avoid slugging it out with Nanjie by moving to a bigger and better spot that brings the added benefits of more than one toilet.

9. The Rickshaw is at peak popularity and has the loyalty of COX and Saddle fans. It would be an instant hit in the Browns location and, even if it waned a bit, would be poised for a major Olympics payoff next summer.

10. Employees at magazines like that’s Beijing and City Weekend are regulars at The Rickshaw and, I’m guessing, would be fans if the place moved to Browns. There would be some substantial free promotion.

I could go on - if The Rickshaw moved to Browns, it could keep the place busy during daytimes by doubling as restaurant and Internet cafe (those high ceilings keep smoke at bay); it could offer up wings and pizza slices at that outer bar during busy weekend nights; it would be a natural spot for business and social groups to hold their events - but this is all idle speculation (so remember that if you’re furiously writing me an email) and it’s making me thirsty, so I’ll go back to quietly sipping my beverage…

(Hey, they could merge the names Browns and The Rickshaw and call it The Brick! Okay, really, I’m stopping… right now.)

A chain around the front door, no return calls from the managing partner, months of speculation about unpaid bills - indeed, it does seem that Browns has closed shop.

The questions is: what’s next?

If that space is available, I don’t see it lasting long. Even with monthly rent reportedly at 20,000 - that would be USD not RMB - the place has plenty of potential.

The Rickshaw around the corner is a good example of how to draw crowds: anyone can pour draft, but a high-quality draw (the food), character-driven staff and responsive management keep the patrons coming. (Q Bar is another example, with a good mix of quality drinks and well-known bartenders.)

Why not transfer that philosophy to Browns?

Oh, wait. In its early days, Browns did have good grub (many people went to Browns for dinner and drinks) and character-driven staff (Glenn, Jackie, et al).

So, what happened?

Well, there were neverending attempts to reach new niches and grab a few kuai, from 10-kuai shots (in response to Shooters, the net effect being to undermine Browns higher-priced drinks) to the Sunday night “pet races” (they literally raced mice and turtles in the bar). This short-sighted focus extended to a penny pinching attitude with the staff and drinks, and steadily drove away the early clientele that made Browns a success.

In any case, someone else will give it a go. And why not? Browns did so many things wrong in terms of HR, food and, especially, marketing, but still lasted 18 months. No doubt others out there will think they can get it right, and right in time for that huge Olympics payoff (hmm, I wonder if two-kuai wings would be a nice draw?)…

Tonight, after confirming Browns is closed, I did a walkabout in the Sanlitun South and North areas on my way home. A few notes:

1. Bookworm: Surprisingly, I received my iced tea in under five minutes, in contrast to my experience last weekend (see the post Sunday Service Showdown: Bookworm vs. Rickshaw coming up shortly).

2. Rickshaw: I had a spicy chicken burger (wholeheartedly recommended) and a bottle of Qingdao (thanks to the Aussies holed up there after being shut out of Browns).

3. Pure Girl 1, Pure Girl 2, Pure Girl 3, A ‘Lil High, Saddle, Aperitivo: Last night, the local authorities carted off all the tables these establishments had put out front for customers. No word if the “street widening” is permanent.

4. Tanewha - The name is still holding strong.

5. Cheers - A couple of customers, a nice chat with Leo; China Doll - about ten people upstairs; Kokomo - roofop half-full.

6. Home - Mark Twain and George Orwell were waiting.

Browns ranked among the hottest and most talked about places in town a year ago, but has been slipping off the radar and I’ve heard comments - primarily though not entirely from the pub’s competitors - that it might be last call. I talked to managing partner Philip Cheung on Sunday and he said there are no plans to close and that while regular business “has gone down a bit”, Browns continues to attract functions. Well, plans change: GB sent an SMS this afternoon saying Browns was closed and a quick visit now found the door chained, the windows darkened and a handwritten sign indicating that the AustCham crowd that normally has its events there should instead go to The Rickshaw.

I don’t know Browns’ finances, but this place has a good location, an excellent layout and a nice draft beer selection. The thing it has long needed is better marketing to get back the original “good clean fun” crowds of the early days and draw business during off hours.

It’s a space waiting to happen, so let’s see what happens next…

Previous posts re Browns
Off to a good start: No blues for Browns
Bar of the Year: And the TBJ bar awards winners are…
Warning signal!: On Browns
Browns: Love it…
Browns: … or hate it

Break out the Champagne… or at least the Changyu sparkling cider.

The results of the Chinalyst China Blog Awards were announced yesterday and this site took top spot in the “personal” category.

The win wraps up a two-week campaign that saw this blog rise from 26th to first, due to the support of many readers - a big thanks to all of you.

Special thanks go to China Doll’s Ai Wan for backing my campaign (and bringing Jackie Chan and Robert Palmer on board), to M-Dawg for his “you have to add photos, man, a lot of photos!” advice, to P. Wong for early support, and to Yan Xishan and his Juicy Pants Army for providing some muscle.

A big thanks goes to the monkey of the year, if not the millenium, Zimbu.

Kudos to Chinalyst for this contest, as it caused me to check out many new sites — my blogroll will soon be growing…

A week ago, he brought comparisons to Harry Morgan. Yesterday, he was upgraded to Bruce Willis. Now, it seems apparent that it is Bruce Willis who looks like him. Meet Chad Lager - Rickshaw fixture, vessel of information for Bourbon lovers and a man who apparently gets better looking every day.

Odds are you haven’t spied much Old Grand-dad, Knob Creek, Woodford Reserve, Booker’s,  I.W. Harper,  Four Roses single barrel, Evan Williams or Wild Turkey 12-year-old around Beijing. Well, my friends, all of these Bourbons and more are available not only in our fair city, but in one place, a little spot to which Chad recently introduced me and some acquaintances.

The place consists of two small private rooms and a long bar that seats ten at most. It is modestly lit, non-pretentious and stocked with an excellent array of alcohol. The staff is efficient and polite, and will grab umbrellas and walk you to a taxi if it’s raining.

Chad had mentioned it to me half a dozen times and, as I sat on the balcony of The Rickshaw recently, he shouted from the deck below, “We’re going there tonight.” But this is best explained with lyrics to the tune of The Beverly Hillbillies theme song, which I haven’t been able to get out of my head for a week:

Now, listen to my story / ’bout a man named Chad
A guy who works at Rickshaw / where the wings are mighty bad*
Well, one balmy day  / he was serving up some  food
When in to the bar / came a babbling dude

(For wings, that is)
(Buffalo’d)
(Qingdao cold)

Well, the next thing you know / the dude has gone upstairs
Chad’s yelling from the deck / “hey, move away from there”
“I’m pretty darn sure / of a place you ought to be”
So we loaded into cabs / and we went to the Ichi…

(…kura, that is)
(Bourbon old)
(Liquid gold)

* Bad, in this case, means good.

The place has over 100 Bourbons, Scotches and Single Malts. It is small, quiet, relaxed and can be pricey, so if you’re the type that gets loud or feels uncomfortable dropping 300 kuai+ on high-quality alcohol, you might want to give it a pass.

The music is light and mixes well with the talk, which goes something like this. “I’ll have a Maker’s Mark Gold  - this one is only available in Japan.” “Glenlivet 18, please” “This one is much smoother than the last one.” “Jim Beam Black, straight up.” “Have you tried Red River (Hong He) cigarettes? The Yunnan tobacco is toasted, just like Lucky Strikes.” (Well, conversation isn’tonly about beverages.)

My favorite Bourbon of the night was IW Harper - a nice candied pear nose with a touch of bananas and an excellent rich and caramel-y mouth feel.

We also tried some amazing Captain Morgan private stock and a Moscow Mule - ginger-soaked vodka and ginger ale.

According to my eavesdropping, the Japanese owner, Kuroki Koji, came to Beijing to study Chinese literature but dreamed of opening a bar - and he did, in January 2004, with a partner. Ichikura is named after the basement of a rice warehouse where the owner opened his first bar.

Chad picked up the tab on this one, which, of course, guarantees a return visit… that I.W. Harper 12-year-old needs testing.