Beijing Boyce

If Sanlitun or Houhai are getting tedious, and Super Bar Street just isn’t your thing, why not be a bit adventurous and try barhopping a bit farther north in, say, Ulaan Baatar?

If a new guidebook by Chris Devonshire-Ellis — 20-year China veteran, man-about-town, whiskey and Champagne lover, regular bowtie wearer, and tax expert — is any indicator, there are enough watering holes there to keep you busy for a weekend or two.

Chris’ 140-page “Travel Guide to Ulaan Baatar and the Mongolian Countryside” has plenty of info on everything from retreats to good eats. I asked him to list his top five Ulan Bator bars — here are his responses (note: if you want to order his book, email tuya@mongoliaexpat.com or pick it up at Pavillion, Bookworm or Maggies, for RMB 100).

“Dave’s Place - Sukhbaatar Square
“Right on the corner of UB’s [Ulan Bator's] main square, Dave’s is the quintessential expat hangout, with a huge outdoor veranda looking out over onto the main square, ideal for people watching. Local UB beer on tap plus all the regular drinks, and a British-based food menu. Dave’s is the ending point for the annual London-Ulaan Baatar Mongol rally, where vehicles under 1000cc drive all the way overland and end up, if they’re lucky, in the courtyard. Regular Thursday night quiz session is a UB expat institution, while Dave’s is also home to the UB Yaks rugby team.

“Chingghis Brewery & Pub - Sukhbataaryn Gudamj
“A pub sited right next to a brewery - how cool is that? Chingghis Beer was first brewed in UB by Swiss born Alfred Naf, ten years ago, and he now represents 80 percent of the local market. A German-themed pub with dark wood paneling and a good German menu, glass walls between the pub and the brewery mean you can watch your next pint fermenting next door, before being piped into the bar. Now that’s what I call fresh.

“Grand Khan Irish Pub - Seoul Street, next to the National Theatre
“By far the largest pub in UB, with an excellent selection of local and imported beers. In the summer a large terrace and stage for live music is set up, with the bar patronized by expats and locals in equal numbers. It’s sited just next to the Prime Minister’s residence, so who knows, maybe you’ll see him at the bar sinking a pint of Chingghis.

“Marco Polo Bar – Seoul Street
“UB’s version of Maggies but far more raunchy. On some evenings the girls dress up in themed outfits, so if stripping nuns or cowgirls are your thing, this is the place for you. 5,000 togrog fee to get in; entrance at the back of the main restaurant of the same name. From midnight to late. Curiously, no one we know in UB ever admits going there.

“Oasis Club & Lounge - just off Peace Avenue
“UB’s swankiest lounge, something of a departure from the usual bars and pubs. Upmarket, discreet, sort of like a cross between Centro and Lan. Cool French DJ-spun tunes, chill out, and some unique cocktail creations make this the venue for the truly cool. Gucci’s rather than Timberland, so brush up and dust down if wanting to come here after a week trekking in the Gobi.