Beijing Boyce

China Radio International’s Mark Rybchuk and I teamed up at Sequoia Cafe a while back to tape a four-part series on wine. The interviews are airing on the Dapper Dude segment of Easy FM‘s China Drive program (Friday morning, 11 AM-Noon), co-hosted by Mark. The spots on white wine (hit “click to listen”) and red wine (hit “click to listen”) have aired, and those on Chinese wine and buying wine glasses are set for this Friday and next.

This is very basic information on wine, so my friends in the business can let their blood pressure drop. Really. Take a deep breath. Open a nice Pinot Noir. Take another deep breath and smell the flowers (or berries or whatever else the bouquet holds). Drink. Repeat. I freely admit I’m no wine expert, just someone who enjoys drinking, reading about and occasionally talking about wine.

By the way, no need to email me that I sound like a knob or that I said “skin of wine” instead of “skin of grapes.” I know and I know!

First Cafe has been on my mind these days. For one thing, I surveyed 25 readers about their favorite bars and First Cafe got a few mentions in the “all time” category (see tomorrow’s e-newsletter for details. CORRECTION: it’s coming out Friday). For another, a new bar will soon open in the old Midnight spot, in front of where First Cafe once stood. So, here’s a little trip down memory lane – I think the photos and music in this video capture the spirit of what was the bestest little bar in Beijing…

Note: The video can also be reached via this link.

I sat down with Cox (wings!) and Saddle (burritos!) owner Kris Ryan to discuss his new bar, to open next month in the two-story building that housed Midnight bar and Grappa restaurant, just south of where the Sanlitun beer mug once stood. Actually, by “sat down,” I mean that I was sitting somewhere and emailing questions and he was sitting somewhere else and emailing answers – you get the idea…

What kinds of drinks will you offer?
We’ll offer the full assortment of cocktails but I suppose the big ones for us will be the Margarita, the Long Island and the Hurricane. We’ll be doing the fishbowls again. We plan to follow through with what has been successful with the Saddle and COX. They are our specialties and are a general get messy drink for a pub atmosphere. We won’t go the Martini route as this has already been sewn up very well by Q Bar.

What kinds of food will you offer?
We are still going through our menu but the general approach is fresh and homemade. We will do pizza by the slice – California-style where clients choose their own ingredients every time. Wings, salads, burritos. We are going to put on a gourmet breakfast from 4 AM, which hasn’t been done in Beijing yet. We want to keep it simple, filling and value for money. We are also going to focus on takeout and deliveries in this place.

What makes you think you can succeed in this spot, where other bars and restaurants have failed?
I’m not sure why the others have failed but by the look of the existing design decor, I don’t think they have really thought out their position and clientele. We try to provide what people want and what is lacking in this market. I’m always hungry in Beijing. I’m sick of McDonald’s, KFC etc. I’m always looking for fresh, filling food at a reasonable price. I’m always on the run thus like something that I can carry and is quick. I think we can provide that and as long as our quality stays consistent and our beer is cold, cold, cold, we should succeed. The location is perfect in my opinion – we have an icon building, good visibility, and easily accessibility with a nice interior layout as well as an outdoor area. That, with all the sports, DJs, pool and a good atmosphere, should add up to a winning combination. I’m quite confident it will work.

How did you get involved in Beijing’s F&B scene and what’s the background behind your involvement in Saddle and Cox?
My real business is my design and construct company. I was looking for a new challenge and have always wanted to have a bar. I found a small DVD shop for rent and turned it into the Saddle with a friend of mine who shared my passion for trying our own bar. We originally thought the Saddle would go down the old South Sanlitun Black Sun bar route, but it formed into what it is now on its own. I’ve found that the bars become what the people in Beijing make them. It’s interesting to see that they have a life of their own. Nic has been involved in restaurants in the U.S and he looks after the food. I just run the admin and the operations. I also obviously design and build the spaces. I worked in countless bars around the world in my younger years. It’s great fun.

Many people think Cox has the tastiest wings around. What are the most wings you’ve eaten in one sitting (I hope it’s more than 25 or you’re losing all credibility!)?
In one sitting, I have eaten 25… yeh, sorry about that. I’m lame. There was one guy from the Canadian embassy – Billy – who ate 47 in one hit. We are still looking for contenders. The new bar will hold an annual wing-eating contest. More details on that to come. Our first event will be the opening on Friday the 13th. By the Chinese calendar, this is the perfect day for an opening. We’re looking at having a black party. By the way, we are looking to our clients to help us with a name. The person who creates our name will win a VIP card entitling them to a free beer or spirit on arrival for the first six months of opening. All ideas should be sent to jasmine@facility-asia.com.

That building just south of where the Sanlitun beer mug used to be, you know the one, that two-floor box that fronted First Cafe before it was torn down last year and that until recently held Midnight bar and Grappa restaurant – that place will soon reopen as an all-new bar. The brains behind Cox and Saddle has taken it over and will offer Margaritas, pizza by the slice, a 4 AM breakfast, and more. Check this site later today for an interview with the owner, Kris Ryan.

In the meantime, Kris is seeking help from the collective nomenclatural skills of the masses in his quest to name the bar. The reward for the successful wordsmith: a six-month VIP card entitling him or her to a free beer or spirit during each visit to the Parallel Bars (well, it would be a great Olympics-themed name for a two-floor bar, no?) or whatever it ends up being called. Get your ideas to Jasmine, at jasmine@facility-asia.com, by March 20.

A report published on just-drinks.com finds that international spirits sellers in China face not only “a highly competitive marketplace, a fickle consumer base with low brand commitment and [a] high level of counterfeiting and paralleling,” but also drinkers unaware that Cognac and Whisky are different.

One of the most alarming findings of the report for spirits producers – and one that must have distillers in both Scotland and Cognac blinking in disbelief and horror – concerns unfamiliarity with international spirits. In a poll, 471 regular international spirits drinkers in Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou were asked if whisky and Cognac are the same drink. Some 19% said they agreed that whisky and Cognac were the same drink, and although 38% said they were not, a further 43% said they weren’t sure.

One factor: advertising for both pursues a “modern lifestyle” theme, rather than distinguishes what makes each spirit unique. Thus, any old Cognac or Whiskey – they’re the same thing anyway, right? – will do, at least according to one twenty-something white-collar worker participating in a focus group. “Foreign brands are always on promotion. I go to my favourite KTV about once every two weeks and they always have a new or different international brand on promotion. We always buy it as it is cheaper and when we mix it with tea, Coke or Sprite they all taste the same anyway,” says he.

Spirits makers aren’t alone with identity crises. This study last year for the California Association of Wine Growers found that a lack of familiarity with foreign wines was the second biggest constraint, after distribution, for those selling imported vino in China.

… in 1/3 of the stores that carried California wines, the clerk told us that they did not carry California wines. In several stores we were told that California (or the US) did not make wine. In another store, we were told that they only carried “Old World” wine, such as wine from, “France, Italy, Argentina and Chile.” When we pointed out that continental US was discovered long before Chile, the clerk told us that we did not now our world history and that wines only grew well in the old world anyhow.”

Putting aside who discovered what, the report notes the obvious need for educating wine store clerks. In the meantime, imports of wine and spirits continue to flow, pop, bubble up – whatever cutesy term you like.

(Notes: 1. China Law Blog recently posted on the topic of Scotch in China; 2. Given that I’ve written lots of reports, I tend to take many of them with a grain of salt, or at least a shot of 10-year-old The Balvenie.)

I took a night off from note-taking on Saturday and instead relaxed and meandered about, dropping in on the Red Cross trivia contest at Tim’s Texas BBQ, two house parties, and Cox for some tasty medium chicken wings. The night begged to go on, but O-Zone and I had 10.2 kuai between us after we finished our wings and couldn’t find a cash machine (the ones in 3.3 mall taunted us from behind locked doors). Luckily, we found a cab driver to accept a tenner for the ride home.

In any case, I ran into more bloggers last night than I usually do per month. At one party, I met this guy, whose many readers are anticipating some Beijing-Shanghai comparisons now that he’s moving down south, this guy, who opened up his hutong digs for the night, this guy, who doesn’t take well to people positively mentioning The Cult in the same breath as AC/DC (I didn’t mean it, I didn’t, really), and, I’m pretty sure, this guy. At the other party, I saw Tim Johnson and Jane McCartney, two journalists stationed in Beijing who have blogs.

I ran into a few other bloggers, but I can’t remember the details since: a) memory fails, b)my pen had the night off, and c) I was too focused on trying to get someone – anyone – to try the Grace Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 I brought (it’s good, it is, really). C’mon people, you gotta give this stuff a chance!

Someone seeking high blood pressure might be interested in the job below. Please don’t ask me the name of the employer – I don’t know. Really. But “20 luxury restaurants in Beijing, Shanghai and Chengdu” evokes the words “South Beauty” in my mind. Anyway, here are the spicy details…

Position:
Bar Nightclub General Manager

Location:
Shanghai & Beijing

Our Client:
Our client is a distinguished nationwide company with over 20 luxury restaurants in Beijing, Shanghai and Chengdu cooking with outstanding service standards in a Western luxurious state-of-the art setting.
The group currently employs more than 3000 staff members and develops at a fast pace (target of 40 new upscale restaurants per year).

The newly opened Nightclub & bar will be one of the largest entertainment venues in Shanghai serving the elite of Shanghai business clientele.

Responsibilities
- In charge of the successful Operation, Safety, Sales marketing, Food and Banquet of the Bar & Club
- Global exposure.
- Lead and train the company according to company’s strategy

Skills
- Great aesthetic faculties.
- Good Knowledge of Wine & drinks.
- Charismatic presentable image with strong leadership.
- Business-driven Mentality. Strong skill of entertainment operation
- Outgoing and communicative manner.
- Analytical and strategic outlook .
- Strong Management Skill and CRM is necessary
- Full of Passion & Energy Spirit.
- Should be a non-Chinese candidate with Experience working in Famous Nightclub or 5 stars hotel.
- At least 5 years managerial background

Languages
- English must be fluent
- Mandarin Is a Plus but not necessary
- Other languages would be a high competence.

Please E-MAIL a complete CV in English, including short description of former employers to MS. Amanda Ma at Amandam@antal.com.cn Applications will be treated in strictest of confidence!”

Thanks to BH for the info.

Dropped into Tongli last night at 9 PM, after the weekly tasting at nearby Sequoia Cafe (two white and two red wines from South Africa this time around). Taniwha, Cheers and China Doll, all with entrances on the second floor, were closed, but Bar Blu, Kokomo, and Le Petit Gourmand (a book lending library / restaurant / cafe below Bar Blu) were open.

I thought about having a drink at Bar Blu, but it didn’t seem very friendly, so I headed to Kokomo for a Long Island. Since I don’t like to drink alone (yep, I was the only customer) I finished and headed to Phil’s Pub… but felt a slight discomfort all night. My finely-tuned Friday night wine tasting / drink at Cheers with Eddie O / onhard ho machinery was out of whack, and I was home reading “Wine for Dummies” by 11 PM… only Buddha knows how long I can endure this…

Response to issue 31 of my free e-newsletter (email beijingboyce@yahoo.com with “Eat, Drink and Be Merry” in the subject line to subscribe):

1
“Hi Beijing Boyce – Just so you know, as of about a month ago, Pipe was still very much overrun with lesbians on Saturday night.” – GG

BB: Thanks GG, and you’re right, it’s still girls uninterrupted on Saturday night, though the place has in general become more gender-inclusive. [Original article: Put Valentine's Day in Your Pipe and Smoke It]

2
“We have been enjoying reading your write ups about drinks / fun in Beijing. Perhaps you can give us a little credit when you write about wine by the glass next time as we do offer eight different kinds of wine by the glass, not yet 12 [which I suggested as a nice number of bottles a bar might regularly and randomly open] at reasonable prices. We might take up your request in the near future.” – L.I. (Cafe Europa)

BB: Point taken, L.I. – I don’t give enough kudos to Cafe Europa, probably because it’s in Jianwai Soho and thus not in my ‘hood. This spot has good wine, food, ambience and, as of last weekend, Sunday breakfast.

3
“Since I am unemployed and have WAY too much time on my hands I spend a lot of time reading little random news articles. This is how I know that contrary to popular belief, it is NOT the year of the golden pig [but instead the year of the fire pig]. You know they actually predict a baby boom in some parts of Asia as people rush to have children under what they think is a very lucky year! So sad lah…” – NP

BB: Good news NP, as many people prefer their pigs over fire (with a little BBQ sauce).

4
“Great read again – I had only wished I had the time off to go to the Scotch tasting [Enough Single Malt to Make You See Double] myself. Just one quick note on the Manhattan – with a proper Manhattan, you should not be given the choice of Bourbon or “whiskey”, you should be given the choice of what kind of rye or Canadian whisky you prefer. Sorry I’m just a stickler for such things, as you know.” – DM

BB: Thanks DM, and stickle away, preferably while enjoying a proper Manhattan, or just the rye straight up.

5
“In thinking of Dan Siebers’ tips on wine [Siebers' Suggestions], I agree wholeheartedly, never trust anyone who thinks they know something about wine. Not only is there too much to know, but I believe everyone’s experience of wine is different. However, I wouldn’t go so far as to say you can trust books. I saw one book in America that was highly priced, nicely packaged, and said that there was no reason to decant wine or let it breathe, which is just plain in contradiction of the biochemical facts.

“I grew up in serious independent wine country, in Washington State, so I wouldn’t say, ‘I know wines.’ I would say I love wine, and perhaps you could say that wine is in my blood. I believe the only way to know anything about wines is to drink them, and drink lots of them. But hey, that’s not so bad, is it? By drinking a wide variety of wines without prejudice, you can develop your own personal yet discriminating tastes, which will be far better than just borrowing your opinions from some second-rate jackass on the street, or some first-rate jackass who has a book deal.

“Actually, extend that argument to all restaurant, film, book, music, art, club, bar, and even olive oil critics who think that the only way they can sound smart is by criticizing everything and only praising things that nobody cares about. The best thing about Beijing Boyce is that it is a review of bars and drinks, by someone who actually enjoys going to bars and having a drink! It’s a crazy idea, I know, but what the hey – it just might work. Viva la revolucion!

“Thank you guys for fighting the inane snob culture that ruins wine for what it was originally intended: eating, drinking, and being merry!

BB: Thanks AK – fellow fighters are most welcome to the cause!

(This mailbag first appeared in issue 31 of the Beijing Boyce e-newsletter, mailed on March 1, 2007.)

A bar manager told me last weekend the fire safety crackdown that closed Tongli Studio bars, including his, came after two people died in a karaoke fire in Beijing. I couldn’t find any news about this fire on the Internet, until now, thanks to Paul “The Spark” Pennay, who sent me this story from Reuters (based on a Xinhua article):

The fire department inspected 182 hotels, restaurants, discos, karaoke bars and bathhouses in the eastern Chaoyang district and closed 33 for failing fire safety standards after a fire last week at an unlicensed karaoke bar killed two staff.

This isn’t the first, nor will it be the last, such crackdown in Beijing. For sheer size, there was this 2002 China-wide crackdown, shortly after 25 people died in a Beijing Internet cafe fire:

…more than 6,200 illegal public entertainment venues – such as karaoke bars, discos and video arcades – have been shut down. Another 111,183 venues were shut down temporarily until fire-prevention measures are taken.

Beijing immediately banned the city’s 2,400 Internet cafes, the mayor reported as saying only those that passed fire and safety inspections could reopen.

Bar owners would do well to get their places up to snuff. Not only is it their obligation to customers, but this city is not going to take any chance of a bar full of Olympics tourists goes up in flames in 2008. Nor should they. Tragedy such as the two deaths last week in Chaoyang Park should be prevented.

They might yet lack a taste for Henessey or Remy Martin, but it’s never too soon for kids to learn their Xs and Os. It’s handy early on for Tic-Tac-Toe, and later in adulthood when they’re blazingly drunk, sweaty-faced and fumbling through the liquor cabinet looking for something their last two functioning brain cells can recognize. A shout to M-Dawg for the reference.

Action scene from my at-home blind tasting of Chinese wines (more pics below)

I’ve received numerous emails from people who are either: 1) curious about Chinese wine but unsure where to start, or 2) cynical about Chinese wine after a bad experience or two with some nasty Dynasty or Great Wall. My mission: find seven decent wines made with Chinese grapes that anyone in Beijing can easily buy for less than 700 kuai for their own DIY tasting with friends. As fireworks exploded (Chinese New Year!) outside my apartment on February 22, I began that mission by trying 11 wines with seven tasters:

- Frank Siegel, who opened Beijing’s first non-hotel bar (Frank’s Place) in 1990 and runs the popular Friday night wine sessions at Sequoia Cafe in Sanlitun

- Campbell Thompson, who recently left ASC Fine Wines to pursue a Master’s in Wine Marketing

- Fongyee Walker and Edward Ragg, who have held and judged many blind tastings and just moved to Beijing

- Mike Wester, GM of that’s Beijing, who says, “All wine tastes the same to me!”

- Maggie Huang, my co-worker, who fancies single malt but is open to wine

– Me

, a novice at wine, and participating in my first blind wine tasting in China or this size

These are my notes from the tasting of 10 Chinese wines (and one Australian) by seven people in my home on February 22 (CS = Cabernet Sauvignon).

Flight 1: Grace Chardonnay 2005, Catai Chardonnay 2005

Grace: Its creamy nose, with apple and vanilla scents, matched nicely to its equally creamy and refreshing body; hints of citrus; sour apple at the finish.

Catai: A nose described as “medicinal,” “locker room” and “disappointing”; a bit harsh going down, with a chemical taste; making out flavors was difficult.

Verdict: Everyone concurred with Maggie H that Grace (Torres: 60 kuai) beat Catai (Summergate: 44 kuai). “Grace blew the other one out of the water,” said Fongyee.

Flight 2 (Blind Tasting): Catai CS 2005, Grace CS 2005, Catai Merlot 2003

Catai CS: The nose went from syrupy with dark fruit to peppery / dusty to “dead”; too tannic and not enough finish.

Catai Merlot: The nose was first dusty and “polluted” (“this one was evidently made near a highway,” said Mike), then more complex and spicy, though musky. “More structured,” said Edward; “Number two is good,” said Fongyee, although we agreed it didn’t hold up well.

Grace CS: Nose was light, fruity, with sugary apple hints, and a slight plastic-y smell; fruity body, though a bit stringent. Fongyee said it was, “fairly clean, but lacking in the middle.”

Verdict: Catai Merlot (Summergate: 44 kuai) won, followed by the Grace (Torres: 60 kuai) and Catai Cabernet Sauvignons (Summergate: 44 kuai). I agreed, though my notes suggested a different order. (I’ll get into the psychology of blind tasting in a minute).

Flight 3 (Blind Tasting): Catai CS 2003 Superior, Grace CS 2003 Tasya’s Reserve, Bodega Langes CS 2003 Reserve; Penfolds Bin 128 Shiraz 2003 (We added Australian Shiraz as a measuring stick.)

Grace: Steady, fruity, pleasant nose, somewhat dusty at the end; a bit stringent, but with nice lingering fruit flavors. “This is the most well-rounded and likable. Definitely being made in the Bordeaux style,” said Campbell.

Catai: Spicy, syrupy nose with hints of toast; fruity body; nicely drinkable.

Bodega Langes: Nose described as “bog rot,” “musty,” “tar,” “burnt Starbuck’s coffee” (the label called it “casky”); oak flavors overwhelmed the wine’s fruitiness (wood from the China-North Korea border is used). “This is a real stinker, with aggressive, spiky tannins,” said Edward.

Penfolds: Pleasant nose; “Wow! Black currant,” said Fongyee; “This has a lot more punch than the others,” I wrote.

The Verdict: Grace (Torres: 188 kuai). I picked it, then Catai (Summergate: 236 kuai), while Frank picked the reverse. Campbell noted the Grace “could be passed off as an entry level Bordeaux.” Mike said, “I had too much to drink already.” Again, my written notes suggested I liked the Penfold’s better than I verbally ranked it (see below). The Bodega Langes (588 kuai) was the most expensive and the worst wine of the night.

Flight 4: Grace Cabernet Franc 2003 Tasya’s Reserve, Changyu Sparkling Cider

I kept no notes, but the Cabernet Franc (Torres: 198 kuai) was one of, if not the, most enjoyable wines tasted. As for the Changyu sparkling cider, this 5-percent, apple- and peach-scented fun is a great value (26 kuai, and that’s for a magnum – 1.5 liters!).

Overall, I would say all four Grace wines, the Catai Merlot, the Catai CS 2003 and the Changyu sparkling cider should pass into the second round of tasting, which I hope will include some select Dragon Seal, Huadong and Suntime wines.

Thanks to Campbell for helping to prepare and bringing the Shiraz, Frank for moderating, Fongyee and Ed for providing rating sheets, bottle covers and cider, Maggie for bringing fruit, and Mike for dragging over 8 liters of water. By the way, all of the wines were paid for and provided by the tasters (I ordered a case each from Summergate and Torres, both of which provided a discount).

Addendum: The psychology of blind tasting

The next day, I noticed my wine tasting notes didn’t match my votes, Penfolds Shiraz 2003 and Grace Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 being the biggest victims. I emailed Edward and he said such discrepancies are common. I had some of each wine left and decided to do a “solo” blind tasting. How is that possible? I took identical coffee cups, wrote a number on the bottom of each and poured in some wine – one shot of each wine per cup. I closed my eyes, shuffled the cups until I lost track of which cup held which wine, then paired each cup with a wine glass. I poured the wine from the cups into the glasses, then began tasting, taking notes and, eventually, voting. When I finished, I checked the bottom of each cup to see what wine each glass held. The results? Interestingly, my notes from both tastings were similar.

Flight 1: Grace CS 2005, with Catai Merlot 2005 a very close second and Catai CS 2005 a distant third. Strangely, I again described the Merlot as smelling a bit “polluted” at first (maybe dusty is a better word), but ranked it high.

Flight 2: Grace CS 2003 and Penfolds Shiraz first, with Catai CS close behind, and that Bodega Langes CS eighth.

Finally, Fongyee posted her notes to eGullet. Here are her scores, out of 20, in order of best to worst: Grace Cabernet Franc 2003 Tasya’s Reserve (16), Catai Merlot 2004 (15), Grace Chardonnay 2005 (15), Grace CS 2003 Tasya’s Reserve (15), Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2003 (15), Changyu Sparkling Cider (14), Catai CS 2005 (13), Grace CS 2005 (13), Catai CS 2003 Superior (13), Catai Chardonnay 2005 (10) and Bodega Langes CS 2003 Reserve (9). (See http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=99661 for tasting notes.)

More pictures below (click to enlarge):

From left: click to enlarge Men at Work: Campbell, Frank and Edward; The Wine: We work our ways through the red; Taking Note: The ever-diligent Thompson (nice slippers)

(This story, sans photos, first appeared in issue 32 of the Beijing Boyce e-newsletter, mailed on March 1, 2007.)

Some fifteen months ago, I wrote about forming a rap band called Bling Dynasty. The plan was to perform songs such as “Yo Mama Huhu”, “Mi Bad, Yu Bad, Mai Bad” and “Yo! Mae Yo!” But as it turned out, I couldn’t afford the jewelry.

“Bling Dynasty” seems to be catching on in the media (and no, I’m not taking credit for creating this turn of phrase). Timeout magazine in Beijing recently used it for a cover story on the rich in China, as did CNN this week for a piece on luxury goods. The spinoff effects have been good for this blog. Since the CNN story came out, the “Bling Dynasty” section has drawn the most traffic outside of my hompeage.

“Bling Dynasty” – is every Tom, Dick and He Li going to be using it soon?

Yeah, baby!

Part I of this series came hot on the heels of spending far too much time at work. As they say, it was deja vu all over again. After a fun Sunday company ski trip, a week of late nights in the office and a fun Friday night karaoke session with co-workers (“My heart is like an open highway, like Frankie said, I did it myyyy wayyyy!”), I let off some steam with St. Nicky (SN) and later Eddie O.

SN and I started at The Tree with pizza and Hoegarden. The place was hopping, so we squeezed into a back room and filled up on carbs. The food and service were good, and that pizza oven near the door really sets the tone (and smell) as you enter. Good times!

We next met Eddie O. and headed to China Doll, first popping our noses into Cheers, where his tradition is to listen to some horrible Celine Dion song every Friday night. Go figure.

Anyway, we parked at China Doll’s second floor bar, which has a good view, quick service and cushioned elbow rests. Thus ensconced, Eddie O, SN and I got down to serious business – a discussion of all things Aussie (St. Nicky hails from Broken Hill). Our topics covered the TV shows McCleod’s Daughters, Neighbors and The Flying Doctors, the bands Midnight Oil, Frente and AC/DC, and of course Kylie Minogue (who apparently has had plastic surgery on her ass) and Nicole Kidman (who use to be married to one).

Having made all necessary judgments on those items, we headed to Q Bar for another chinwag, with SN matching me martini for martini (what a jillaroo!) and Eddie O sticking to Wild Turkey. For some reason, Eddie O kept saying, “I want a six-foot hot dog.” (It’s true, I have it on paper.) That eventually inspired a trip to…

Maggies bar, where you can’t get a six-foot hot dog, but can get a good six-inch one, with fried shallots, at that cart outside. Inside, the place was bustling – people squeezed past each other, the speakers blared the usual dependable tunes and Eddie O bought drinks! St. Nicky and I hit the dance floor for a good hour or so. At some point in the evening my belt broke. SN got a hold of it and threatened me with it as a joke – that was enough to inspire half a dozen foreign men there to ask, “how much for the night?” (kidding). I eventually fixed my belt, to the amusement of a few bystanders, received a drink as my reward and headed back to the dance floor. It’s not every day you hear Bon Jovi in two different places…

(This story first appeared in issue 32 of the Beijing Boyce e-newsletter, mailed on March 1, 2007.) 

Kokomo *had* been the sole bar to escape closure after the fire safety inspections in Tongli Studio, but, as they say, all good things must come to an end. One of Kokomo’s owners posted the following on that’s Beijing nightlife forum:

I am sad to report that Kokomo is now closed as of Sunday night. The police came by and said they wanted the whole building shut down even though the first time they said we didn’t need to close. Hopefully we will be open again in a few days!

Watch this space for updates on when Bar Blu, Taniwha, Cheers, China Doll and Kokomo will re-open.

After buying those initial 30 wine glasses at the Flower Market, I walked to 5:19 Bar & Grill on nearby Super Bar Street, which ranks among the more depressing strips in Beijing, if not the planet. I’ve seen cement processing plants with as much charm as this scruffy, plant-less, concrete- and neon-lined stretch. It reminded me of a deserted and poorly refurbished fair midway. I half-expected a slightly insane, gap-toothed carnie to pop out and hawk dirty candy apples. It looked like… you get the point.

At 5:19, I ordered a shot of Canadian Mist and just in time, too, as the Hash House Harriers poured in. The Hashers are a running club and, having finished 10 kilometers, spread sweat throughout the first floor as they stripped down to bare chests and toweled off. One Hasher kept blocking the flat-screen TV, and a show about refurbishing private jets. Trust me, it’s hard to follow the nuances of upholstering aircraft seats while facing a hairy back, especially when it’s a woman’s (kidding). The hashers eventually headed upstairs, leaving the Wayne’s World rec room-like first floor to me, some construction workers from the new U.S. Embassy, and Dave, the owner, whose blood pressure lept as the last of his three draft taps ran dry.

I finished my drink, headed off and a few hours realized my phone was missing. Lo and behold, I had left it at 5:19! I returned to find some Hashers and regulars there. Going home was probably a good idea, but instead I ordered a drink, slouched on the couch and discovered the meaning of 5:19. It happened a few minutes later, at 11:30, when The Daily Show came on. For half an hour, I found myself laughing, slapping my knees and pointing at the screen along with the other patrons, feeling like I was with a bunch of pals.

That’s the appeal of Dave’s. It IS like Wayne’s World, a place where laid-back people can hang out and relax, no pretensions. The regular patrons include the Hashers, the Darts League, some teachers who work nearby, and a group of regular posters from that’s Beijing’s online forum. Dave explained this as we bought each other shots of Schenleys and Canadian Mist. Better yet, he said that depressing street outside would soon see some cobblestone. I’ll drink to that.

(This story first appeared in issue 32 of the Beijing Boyce e-newsletter, mailed on March 1, 2007.)  

I popped into Tongli last night and… Kokomo was open. This top-floor spot appears to be the sole bar to escape closure from the fire safety inspections. I met one of Kokomo’s co-owners, William Isler, for the first time. He said some management changes have been made at the bar and it will soon be set to fulfill its promise as a Caribbean-themed hotspot.

Meanwhile, the management at China Doll and Cheers were less than thrilled that their normally packed bars were empty. Best case for re-opening seems to be next weekend.

Wine Word: Expect to see Edward Ragg and Fongyee Walker, former Cambridge University Blind Wine Tasting Society captains, about town as they have relocated to Beijing. / Ex-ASC Fine Wines Marketing Director Campbell Thompson has headed to Australia to begin work on a Master’s in Wine Marketing, but will return to Beijing in a few months. Adam Steinberg will join ASC as communications director and step down from his volunteer position as co-organizer of Beijing Wine Club (BWC). Jenn Hinkle, who has been active in the wine scene, will become more involved in BWC. / Capone’s is offering two-for-one on two white and six red wines by the glass, as well as all alcoholic drinks, from 5 to 8 PM nightly. / Cafe Europa offers seven wines by the glass (40-45 kuai per) in its regularly rotating lineup. It has started a “lazy Sunday” breakfast menu (10 AM-3 PM): fruit juice, toast, grilled tomatoes, baked beans, two eggs with bacon or sausage, and free flow coffee or tea, for 50 kuai. Other options include pancakes with maple syrup and yoghurt with fruits, walnuts and honey. / By the way, Opener, two flights up from Cafe Europa, is a sedate nighttime getaway. The drinks are pricey, but this spacious artsy place offers a dozen bottled beers and a small Whiskey collection, mellow music and comfortable seating. / As for wine tasting events, Sequoia Cafe is continuing its excellent Friday night gatherings, with this week’s featuring Slovenian wines (6:30 PM, 50 kuai, RSVP required: call Frank at 13701-178-073). The Beijing Wine Club will hold a tasting of Australian boutique wines on March 3 at Hao Feng Cellars in the Henderson Center (7 PM; 150 kuai). ASC will have a Riedel wine dinner at the American Club on March 13 with company CEO with Maximillian von Riedel (6:30, 888 kuai, price includes four wine glasses). Summergate will hold a Chateau Lafite wine dinner at Aria on March 20 with winery CEO Christophe Salin (7 PM, 1888 kuai).

Opening Shots comes from the Beijing Boyce biweekly e-newsletter. To subscribe, send an email to beijingboyce@yahoo.com with “Eat, Drink & Be Merry” in the subject line.

According to two bar managers in Tongli Studio, all of the drinking holes in the building were shut down by the authorities last night. I went to Cheers, on the second floor, at 9 PM and it was business as usual, though China Doll next door was closed due to — said a sign on the door — fire code issues. Apparently, all of the other bars, including Taniwha and Bar Blu,  were closed by the authorities by midnight. I called the managers at Cheers and China Doll, and they said they are unsure when their bars will open. Watch this space for updates.

Tongli Studio’s three-floor lounge and club, China Doll, is an early candidate for bar of the year. The decent service, layout, design, ambience and prices add up to a winning formula, though the erotic pictures and video are over the top and the upstairs and downstairs bars need foot rails. / Next door, Cheers is thriving with its live Xinjiang music on weekends. Saturday night was so busy you could feel the humidity at the door. The night before, the bass player jumped onstage to improvise with the singer and drummer, popping his axe so deftly it sounded like a dozen croaking frogs (in a good way). / Next door, Taniwha is rousing to life. Two recent spot checks found populations of 25 and 15, the first double-digit patronage this humble correspondent has witnessed in a month. / The owner of both Cox and Saddle will open a new establishment in the two-story building housing Midnight and Grappa (and a public toilet), near Bookworm. / Ten-kuai drinks recently tried at Shooters include Monkey Brains (Baileys, banana liqueur, vodka), ET (melon liqueur, Bailey’s, vodka) and Baby Ruth (amaretto, peanuts, vodka). Free entertainment included a 70-year-old gentleman boogying at the bar and a young lady making molten lava moves on the dance floor (that is, until “Mom” called to pick her up in “the van.” Uh oh). / Speaking of drinks, the Ai Wan Jamaica invented by China Doll manager Joop Shen is a large and refreshing cocktail that includes vodka, Malibu, midori, creme de banana, and sweet and sour mix. / Jackey Kong, the original supervisor of Browns, who left that spot in December, is now at Suzie Wong. Meanwhile, Browns is hosting the Australian Chamber’s Thursday night Kookaburra Pub. AustCham guy Simon Cousins says the 30-kuai entrance fee gets Aussies and non-Aussies alike 2-for-1 drinks for 3 hours (Coopers included), Australian music, TV shows and sports coverage, giveaways, and snacks such as homemade sausage rolls (where!? where were the sausage rolls last night!?). / Over in the Gongti area, The Pavillion has glassed in the patio to the east, giving the bar more depth. Those huge chairs by the faux fireplace are a nice place to enjoy a glass of Sherry. / The Bank, a lounge and bar located on the site of the old Maggies, is on the verge of opening. / And 80s night at Alfa couldn’t be touched last Friday as me-decade lovers of all ages danced to the classics and a hopped up version of Like a Virgin.

(Note: This is from the newsletter I sent out yesterday. Last night, China Doll was closed as apparently all Tongli Studio establishments were checked to make sure they were up to fire code. I imagine this situation will be quickly rectified.)