I finally went to Fish Nation (Sanlitun North), which I have passed dozens of times, but have always avoided given the crowds. Now I understand its popularity. Battered fish (one big and one small), chips (perfectly cooked and salted) and a Qingdao: 40 kuai. As I sat at the counter, I’m not sure which was gurgling louder, the deep fryers or my stomach in anticipation of the eats. Fish Nation ain’t fancy and only seats eight, but the staff knows how to use oil. (Note: Fish Nation delivers, Sundays to Thursday.)
(From Beijing Boyce XI, first emailed on February 23, 2006)
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